Pool Chlorinator experts - anyone ?

[Ean Austral]

Gday All,

Our pool chlorinator has stopped working , I have tested the cell in a bucket of water and there is no reaction. The main unit on the wall has power and has 2 ways of telling things are working, there are 2 lights when both are green all is good - which is the case at the moment , there is also a screen with numbers which should read near 100, these are not working , there is just a 1 with no zero's behind it.


So my question is - how do I tell if its the complete unit, or if its just the cell that has stopped working ? There are power leads that run to the cell but my multi meter is only registering a very low voltage there , but I assume it wouldn't need much anyway.

Any help or tests before I start forking out the $$ would be a great help.


Cheers Ean

[Old Farang]

So my question is - how do I tell if its the complete unit, or if its just the cell that has stopped working ? There are power leads that run to the cell but my multi meter is only registering a very low voltage there , but I assume it wouldn't need much anyway.
The output from the controller is usually between 6 to 12 volts DC, most commonly around 9 volts DC. Disconnect the cell and check what voltage there is between the 2 leads without the load on it. This should tell you if the problem is the controller or the cell. They draw around 25 amps when new but will deteriorate over time. Controllers also fail, mostly caused by spikes on the AC supply line, but also excessive heat.

[Ean Austral]

The output from the controller is usually between 6 to 12 volts DC, most commonly around 9 volts DC. Disconnect the cell and check what voltage there is between the 2 leads without the load on it. This should tell you if the problem is the controller or the cell. They draw around 25 amps when new but will deteriorate over time. Controllers also fail, mostly caused by spikes on the AC supply line, but also excessive heat.

Thanks for the reply, So is as simple as connecting a 12v battery to test if the cell plates work ?


Cheers Ean

[Old Farang]

Thanks for the reply, So is as simple as connecting a 12v battery to test if the cell plates work ?
Cheers Ean
Arh, NO, do not try that! The controller output is electronically regulated to match the load / current required. A battery will just see the cell as a dead short and probably light up like it IS Guy Fawkes night!

[Ean Austral]

Arh, NO, do not try that! The controller output is electronically regulated to match the load / current required. A battery will just see the cell as a dead short and probably light up like it IS Guy Fawkes night!

Ok no worries , cant get much voltage reading at the ends of the leads that go to the cell so assume the unit is knackered. Thanks for your replys.


Cheers Ean

[Old Farang]

Ok no worries , cant get much voltage reading at the ends of the leads that go to the cell so assume the unit is knackered. Thanks for your replys. Cheers Ean
You did disconnect the leads first from the cell?

[Ean Austral]

You did disconnect the leads first from the cell?

Yes, tried volts and amps and no reading to speak of , I also tried putting the cell into a bucket of water and turned it on, no bubbles or misty water even after 10 minutes. The unit on the wall has power and also tells me all is ok but I have suspected for a while now it hasn't been working.


Its an old unit so it doesn't really surprise me , just strange the power to the pump works, the light runs thru it and works , timer works just no power to the cell.

Thanks for your time and help

cheers Ean

[Old Farang]

Thanks for your time and help
You're welcome.

[ramblingboy42]

Arh, NO, do not try that! The controller output is electronically regulated to match the load / current required. A battery will just see the cell as a dead short and probably light up like it IS Guy Fawkes night!

Well, it is Guy Fawkes night.....

[ian4002000]

Can you post a picture of the controller ? It will help to identify which one it is and I can let you know what sort of service history I have had with that brand.
I would have been looking for the voltage to be around 24 volts but if you aren't getting any voltage that isn't good for the controller.
The other quick test of the cell is to put it into really salty water ie 10,000 ppms plus and if you get a reaction then it is most likely a worn out cell. the trick here is to pour half a bag of salt into the skimmer whilst the pump is running and see if any change occurs at the chlorinator.

I am assuming you have had the salt content of your pool water tested and it is above 5000 ppm.

Ian

[Ean Austral]

Can you post a picture of the controller ? It will help to identify which one it is and I can let you know what sort of service history I have had with that brand.
I would have been looking for the voltage to be around 24 volts but if you aren't getting any voltage that isn't good for the controller.
The other quick test of the cell is to put it into really salty water ie 10,000 ppms plus and if you get a reaction then it is most likely a worn out cell. the trick here is to pour half a bag of salt into the skimmer whilst the pump is running and see if any change occurs at the chlorinator.

I am assuming you have had the salt content of your pool water tested and it is above 5000 ppm.

Ian

Gday Ian,

Thanks for the reply , its a Monarch ( Davey ) ESR 160 and I ended up pulling the main unit apart, there is a safety transformer that takes in 240v and 8.5v comes out , this supply goes to the leads which go to the cell. I played around with the connections and ended up getting the 8.5 volts to the cell. The cell produced very little mist and bubbles in a bucket of water , but very little was a bit more than 0 so I assumed it was the cell. Best accounts is we think the cell is 8-9 years old so its most likely run its course.

I have ordered a replacement cell and we will see how it goes.

Thanks again for the reply

Cheers Ean

[Old Farang]

I am assuming you have had the salt content of your pool water tested and it is above 5000 ppm.
Hmm, never seen a pool run that high! The recommended level is around 3,000 ppm, 3,200 being ideal. Run it at 5,000 and the tile grout will rapidly start to fall out.
As for voltage: some Hayward chlorinators are up around 24 volts, but they must only be used with a compatible cell, and the controller will have a digital readout of the voltage.

[ian4002000]

Gday Ian,

Thanks for the reply , its a Monarch ( Davey ) ESR 160 and I ended up pulling the main unit apart, there is a safety transformer that takes in 240v and 8.5v comes out , this supply goes to the leads which go to the cell. I played around with the connections and ended up getting the 8.5 volts to the cell. The cell produced very little mist and bubbles in a bucket of water , but very little was a bit more than 0 so I assumed it was the cell. Best accounts is we think the cell is 8-9 years old so its most likely run its course.

I have ordered a replacement cell and we will see how it goes.

Thanks again for the reply

Cheers Ean


Please keep me posted I have an Davey Es 16 having low output at present , I was considering replacing the cell but they aren't cheap. I am considering which chlorinator to replace it with at present.

[Ean Austral]

Please keep me posted I have an Davey Es 16 having low output at present , I was considering replacing the cell but they aren't cheap. I am considering which chlorinator to replace it with at present.

I did a google search , after market cell for mine $159 delivered, sure its not genuine but local bloke quoted $440 + GST for genuine. Chlorinator is prolly 10 plus years old , after market will do just fine.

Cheers Ean

[ian4002000]

Hmm, never seen a pool run that high! The recommended level is around 3,000 ppm, 3,200 being ideal. Run it at 5,000 and the tile grout will rapidly start to fall out.
As for voltage: some Hayward chlorinators are up around 24 volts, but they must only be used with a compatible cell, and the controller will have a digital readout of the voltage.

There aren't many chlorinators run below 4000 and some have higher recommended levels. And these salt levels are usually at around 20 deg C when the temp goes below this the salt level needs to be increased to stop the electrodes wearing away too fast.

That is why the low salt light comes in on many chlorinators during winter down here.

And for those that care it is very rare to get chlorine output once the water goes below 10 deg c

Many chlorinators I come across seem to run at 24 volts but I haven't been measuring them all.

Most chlorinators need a compatible cell to operate efficiently, and I know of one type of chlorinator that has variable output and can be adjusted to work with different size cells

Ian

[ian4002000]

I did a google search , after market cell for mine $159 delivered, sure its not genuine but local bloke quoted $440 + GST for genuine. Chlorinator is prolly 10 plus years old , after market will do just fine.

Cheers Ean

Thank for that, most of the cells I have seen for the Davey chlorinators are around $500 +. Did you get the cell off Ebay ?

Ian

[Ean Austral]

Thank for that, most of the cells I have seen for the Davey chlorinators are around $500 +. Did you get the cell off Ebay ?

Ian

No - a heap of pool suppliers came up on google , so I just went thru until I found 1 with what I wanted. I can find out who it was if you like.

Cheers Ean