Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 Eternity Maintenance

[Towcar]

Hi guys,

I am currently running an MY10 3.0 TDV6 with close to 110,000kms on it.

Serviced every 10,000kms. [Oil and Filter] - so easy to do it isnt funny.

I just wanted a bit of insight into the following so the car can run forever without any [hopefully] problems in the future. As in like 400,000kms.

List of things i have done:

-Transmission pan and fluid change
-Oils and filters
-Air compressor
-Turbo drain hose

List of things i want to do and need some others to tell me they are definitely worth doing:

-EGR Emulators [AutoCode Store] What happened these? I want to breathe clean air, and i hope that once the ERG's are tricked that the actual EGR's will not melt or cause issues? same with intake temps etc.
-Replacement struts all round [complete units] My struts are worn, so the car jumps around a bit especially on the highway over big rolling bumps.
-Brake rotors and pads [front] I have been looking at EBC but it looks like i will need to get them shipped. Does anyone know of a place in Melbourne to get some good rotors and pads that act like genuine and last a good amount of time for a cheap price [on a smart budget].

Apart from these things i think the car should be pretty bulletproof if i am all over it?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Jeremy
0412366074

[rrs2010]

Hi Jeromy try the following guys from the UK, Land Rover Parts and Spares Direct (http://www.lrdirect.Com) I've got everything single part from them including cross drilled and slotted rotors and they were fraction of the price from LR dealers here and you'll have it in 3 business days shipped via DHL also try Rimmer Brothers - Triumph Car Parts, MG Rover Car Parts, and Land Rover Car Parts and Spares (http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk)

[rrs2010]

Rimmer Bros have the britpart performance rotors they are a 3rd party company that have been manufacturing in the UK for over 30 years and I've had control arms, tie rod kits, and water pump from their brand and have had 0 issues, you get 2 years warranty

[rrs2010]

You might want to change the diff oil too

[Towcar]

Great input thank you - have done diff oils, still need to do Transfer case.

Apart from those thing i think the EGR would be good to block off to keep the engine a bit cleaner?

Bursons gave me the right spec Fuch oil last time - not too sure if it what i should be using as have only used it once, will look into this. Oil changes are too easy to do - even the filter changes are simple. The pollen filter not smells a tad funny after i put a new one in behind the glove box however.

I am experiencing average fuel consumption, or maybe it is normal but i rarely see a distance till empty above 690kms and an average fuel consumption of about 9.2- This is right i hope.

Jeremy

[Rextheute]

Fuchs Titan c1 .
A suction pump makes it heaps easier , worth the investment , got mine at Bursons .

9.2 sounds about right , I mostly run regional / rural into Melbourne . A trip to work is 120kms rounds trip ,mix of open road , freeway and normal traffic .

I have seen and av of just under 9 , but that was lower speed and nanna driving !

[rrs2010]

I've tried to block the egr's off and called a few indi places they all say it's problematic to do it since the map sensor & the control modules throw tantrums like your wife lol! So I've in the end taken them out and given a clean. You can use induction cleaners to clean out the soot frequently to make sure the intakes are clean. Liquid Molly has a good one for diesel suv's.

Cheers
Rav

[Towcar]

Hi Rav,

That does sounds like a pain- hard to take them off? Where they dirty when you did take them off?

Cheers

Jeremy

[101RRS]

Really it is a waste of time taking them out and cleaning them - if you are going to go to that effort the just replace them.

When EGRs fail it is more than them just getting clogged up - the operating mechanism also breaks down and there is nothing you can do about this.

Others experience shows that the EGRs fail soon after their removal, cleaning and being put back in as the operating mechanism is a little slower to break down than the clogging up process. By cleaning them only half the job is done.

If you shop around overseas new EGRs are not all that expensive but you are better blanking and getting a software patch.

Garry

[Towcar]

Thanks Garry,

Do you know of someone who can do this at the right price? a goo job i'd be happy with in VIC?

I might be able to get others on board too.

Thanks.

Jeremy.

[101RRS]

Hmmm I live in the ACT - a bit of distance from Vic. I know someone up here who could change your EGRs.

If you get the EGRs blanked - a DIY job you do not remove the old EGRs.

[Towcar]

Update - I have just ordered the following from Rimmer Bros - 7 day delivery via Fedex to Melb.

-2 x Oil Filters
-2 x Air Filters
-1 x Pollen Filter
-Front Delphi Rotors
-Front Delphi Brake Pads

Total price in delivery $579 AUD - Pretty good i think.

Still sourcing replacement struts. at 110,000kms i would think i could swap out struts and not bags, not sure if i can do this myself yet.


Jeremy

[adm333]

Has anyone tried this mob for air suspension components ?

Range Rover Sport Air Suspension Parts and Compressors | Aerosus (https://aerosus.com/land-rover/range-rover-sport/l320-2005-2013.html)

[rrs2010]

Hi Jeremy my indi guy has his workshop in keysborough he only charged me 200 to remove both egrs and clean them so the cost was negligible and thought it was worthwhile to do it. He's got a 08 rrs v8 himself so knows the rangies inside out. I'd be keen to blanket the egrs and patch the software if anyone knows who would do it in vic

[Straddy]

Hi guys,

I am currently running an MY10 3.0 TDV6 with close to 110,000kms on it.

Serviced every 10,000kms. [Oil and Filter] - so easy to do it isnt funny.

I just wanted a bit of insight into the following so the car can run forever without any [hopefully] problems in the future. As in like 400,000kms.

List of things i have done:

-Transmission pan and fluid change
-Oils and filters
-Air compressor
-Turbo drain hose

List of things i want to do and need some others to tell me they are definitely worth doing:

-EGR Emulators [AutoCode Store] What happened these? I want to breathe clean air, and i hope that once the ERG's are tricked that the actual EGR's will not melt or cause issues? same with intake temps etc.
-Replacement struts all round [complete units] My struts are worn, so the car jumps around a bit especially on the highway over big rolling bumps.
-Brake rotors and pads [front] I have been looking at EBC but it looks like i will need to get them shipped. Does anyone know of a place in Melbourne to get some good rotors and pads that act like genuine and last a good amount of time for a cheap price [on a smart budget].

Apart from these things i think the car should be pretty bulletproof if i am all over it?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Jeremy
0412366074


My 3.0L TDV6 just self destructed with a broken crank as a result of spun bearings. Less than 96,000klms and always fully serviced.

[Towcar]

Sorry to hear that, had you serviced on time etc? Lots of towing or just random? What are you going to do?

[Straddy]

Sorry to hear that, had you serviced on time etc? Lots of towing or just random? What are you going to do?

Fortunately JRA provided a replacement engine even though I was 3 years out of warranty.
Breaking the crank is a known fault with the pre-2012 3.0L engines even if they are regularly serviced.