ARN: 49057 FFR AKA "Rango"

[Landy Smurf]

After searching for a long time, I finally bought a Perentie.
The details:
Year: 1989
Model: FFR
Odometer: 188,000kms (no speedo change), it had a engine change in 94 around 120,000kms.
equipment: includes all apart tools and radio equipment.
Why "Rango" ? The students in the class came up with it and voted for it.Was better than a few of the other suggestions.
This is now my daily driver (however I walk to work most days)


Items to be replaced/repaired:
Front blackout light (works but has a hole in the top).
Door and ignition key barrels ($40 delivered and installed easily, however need to tidy up with door grommets/covers)
Front park light lens ($10 ordered and replaced)
Rear tail light bulb ($3 replaced)
Jack (currently using a series jack)
Wheel brace ($35 ordered and in vehicle)
Reversing lights (temporarily fixed)
General service items
Roof leaks when raining heavily- looking into options.
A few rivets need replacing
Light rust on bottom of the footwell- will look into this when servicing soon.
Door cards/lining- unsure whether to replace or not
Front passenger side dash handle has a crack and looking for a replacement.
Dash plastic trim has cracked and I will need a replacement at some point.
High Beam dash light not working
Spare tyre tube- replaces $38
Bonnet, has had something dropped and has dented and a small crack.
Red auxiliary cable in center dash needs re-crimping
Fuel Gauge dash light not working (I am assuming it has one)
Screws that are missing from the steering/ignition shroud (I forgot what it is technically called)
There are a few basic mechanical repairs to be done-nothing major-will comment when doing service.
Paint is rough, so in the future I will look into a respray- in same camo.


Army Equipment I want:
Radio cables
Antenna's
Dash lights blackout flap


Mods to do:
I really do not want to do any mods, if I do, they will be ones that can be easily changed back to original.
I do want to buy/make a center console instead of the gun rest that is currently in there- it needs to be lockable, have cup holders (possible 3 as I will use the middle on for my Bluetooth speaker), auxiliary outlets.
Tacho-not sure but I would liek one
Turbo-That can wait until later due to cost
I did consider LEDS, but I think I will leave that for a while.
Pintle hook-to tow ball or I buy an ex army trailer.
Replace back section with tailgait- once again not sure exactly what I should do there- a downside of a FFR

Thoughts so far:
Very loud (I don't mind too much though)
Seems like a great engine and g-box. I do not know exactly my fuel economy, I imagine between 10L-12L/100Km (which I am happy about)
Steering- I do not mind no power steering, I can see how it would be nice when taking off or moving slow.
Main concern is security.
Really does fit between a series and a Defender.
I was in the market for a Perentie or a Defender.
I would have preferred a Defender but they were either too expensive or too many issues.
At this stage would I have bought the Perentie again? Yes, I paid a good price ( at least I think so).
Would I recommend a Perentie to others? Yes and no, you would need to know what you are getting yourself in to, would be suited well for a weekend rig or a farm/paddock vehicle.

[Landy Smurf]

Some basic photos I took when first purchased. Will upload more detailed ones soon.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/699.jpg (http://s948.photobucket.com/user/tonysmera/media/23825592_10155995395439124_1804493608_o_zps0k5ytdw 1.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/700.jpg (http://s948.photobucket.com/user/tonysmera/media/23847023_10155995395214124_978188585_o_zpsknsw0dib .jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/701.jpg (http://s948.photobucket.com/user/tonysmera/media/23847714_10155995395149124_1362319926_o_zpsitowhmb m.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/702.jpg (http://s948.photobucket.com/user/tonysmera/media/23798769_10155995395369124_591271098_o_zpszzyhctm1 .jpg.html)

[Landy Smurf]

Pink slip done-passed easily without any issues. Rego and insurances paid for 12 months. no purchases for a while :(

[Landy Smurf]

Question time:
I have seen that these are rated to tow 1200kg max.
Are they able to tow more? is this there legal rating? or is this an army rating?

[nismine01]

Question time:
I have seen that these are rated to tow 1200kg max.
Are they able to tow more? is this there legal rating? or is this an army rating?

I remember an Army truck, white fleet, had a towing capacity of 35 tonnes, the Army rating was only three tonnes, they need to know that their vehicle and loads can go anywhere the empty vehicle is capable of going.

Cheers

Mike

[Mick_Marsh]

Question time:
I have seen that these are rated to tow 1200kg max.
Are they able to tow more? is this there legal rating? or is this an army rating?
That is the Army rating and, I believe, the legal rating.
Remember, the Perentie chassis is not a 110 chassis. (Note, the Perentie is pre Defender so is not a Defender either.) There are areas in a Perentie chassis that are weaker than a 110 so do not use the 110 specs as a guide.
If you want to tow more, get an engineered towbar fitted.

[Landy Smurf]

I made the rookie decision and thought it would be able to tow more due to a defender being able to and a series.
I will look into it, as I was hoping to use it to tow a series to Cooma.

[grey_ghost]

Looking good there Landy Smurf!! [emoji1303]

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Mr Smurf,, any ideas on tow weight required?

[Landy Smurf]

Vehicles I have ready to take
2x S3 swb- 1400kg (I can't remember the actual weights)
S2A FC- not quite ready- weight unknown, but heavy (Will look to reduce weight somehow).
Either way it will be over 2 Tonne which is weigh (pun intended) above 1200kg.

At this stage I have 3 drivers ( dad, brother, me)
Perentie- will drive down
S3- can drive down
Fc- I would like to trailer, dad thinks it would be better to drive down.
It is 600km each way.

If I drive all 3 down, it would be very slow and I would take a backup trailer just encase.

[Mick_Marsh]

There is much discussion on here and REMLR already about tow bars.
I think someone had a 3.5t ball fitted.

Have a browse and a search.

Start here:
3500kg ADR towbar (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/coil-sprung-military-land-rovers/239057-3500kg-adr-towbar.html)
This one addresses the known weak points.

[mark2]

That is the Army rating and, I believe, the legal rating.
Remember, the Perentie chassis is not a 110 chassis. (Note, the Perentie is pre Defender so is not a Defender either.) There are areas in a Perentie chassis that are weaker than a 110 so do not use the 110 specs as a guide.
If you want to tow more, get an engineered towbar fitted.

Hi Mick

I am curious about where these weaker areas are. I would think that the Perentie rear crossmember is likely stronger than a Defender, with the possible questionable part (from a tow rating perspective) being the point where the RHS extension is connected to the original chassis at the rear spring towers, Is this the area you were referring to?

Edit: After looking at the above link, I suspect the issue is not the comparitive strength of the chassis, but the fact that the defender chassis provides for additonal mounting points on the chassis rails, which is necessary for the higher rating.
I would put money on a defender chassis failing before a Perentie chassis if both were load tested on a test rig, with the load applied only at the pintle mounting points.

[Mick_Marsh]

Hi Mick

I am curious about where these weaker areas are. I would think that the Perentie rear crossmember is likely stronger than a Defender, with the possible questionable part (from a tow rating perspective) being the point where the RHS extension is connected to the original chassis at the rear spring towers, Is this the area you were referring to?

Edit: After looking at the above link, I suspect the issue is not the comparitive strength of the chassis, but the fact that the defender chassis provides for additonal mounting points on the chassis rails, which is necessary for the higher rating.
I would put money on a defender chassis failing before a Perentie chassis if both were load tested on a test rig, with the load applied only at the pintle mounting points.
The "weak" point is where the chassis extensions (smaller than the original rails) connect to the rear cross member.
That is not to say it's the only weak point.
Another area to look at is where the chains attach to the rear cross member. The ADF wanted the 4x4 to tow a certain amount and these things were designed to tow that amount. If you want to tow outside that limit, you need to practice due diligence and check the design is capable of it or accept the risk.

[Landy Smurf]

I would look at an aftermarket or home build tow bar for towing extra weight.
Is the reason the chassis has smaller rails at the rear due to the spare tyre?

[Landy Smurf]

Put air into the spare a few days ago, and leaked heavily.
Took the spare to the local tyre shop and the result was a leaf was left in there, rubbing against the tyre. It looked like a fossil you would find in a rock.
Total cost $38, really happy with that and they got the job done quickly too.

[Mick_Marsh]

Is the reason the chassis has smaller rails at the rear due to the spare tyre?
Yes. I guess stowing the spare was considered more important than towing heavy loads.

[Landy Smurf]

Finally got Rango home to meet the rest of the gang.
I have got some of the items ready for a service.
I removed the rear seats.
Removed the power box for the radio equipment.
I need to remove the generator and cables associated with it.
I am keeping everything for that one day restoration.
I am averaging 10.5L/100Km, which I am very happy with.
When I was moving from Wingham to home, I found the back very useful but also a little painful as it wasn't flat.
Due to me moving again in a few weeks, I made a temporary fitout.
It is no where near perfect and if I was going to do it again I would made lots of changes and take more care. However, I went for cheap, easy, removable.
134027
134028
134029
134030

[Landy Smurf]

I was considering getting a swag but thought I would try this out first.
134031
As you can see there is not much room left after putting a double mattress in.
134032
So I was thinking of some storage like these.
134033
134034

[Landy Smurf]

Added some tools to the bonnet.
Did some work to the back but will have to wait for photos.
137455
137456

[Landy Smurf]

I am going to be getting some electrical equipment this weekend.
The items I am adding are as follows;
1. LED light for cab
2. LED light for cargo area
3. LED light for the rear-outside
4. At least 2 cigarette outlets
5. At least 1 outlet for ENGEL fridge
6.At least 2 sets of USB outlets- to cater for 2 phones, Bluetooth speaker, GoPro
7. I have a air compressor which has alligator clips- thinking of changing to a 12V/cigarette or Anderson plug, any ideas?
I have seen a few people have done LED strip lighting under the bonnet, is there any issues with this, for example rattling or heat?
Is this going over the top and would I be better off investing in a portable LED light that has a hook and magnet on it?

I am trying to decide whether or not to do a fuse box/block.
I am thinking of making a center console box which can house the fuses/circuit breakers, wires, switches, outlets.
Should I keep all the switches in one place- near the drivers seat?
Any recommendations on where to get materials/equipment from including the LED bars.

Any other tips or recommendations are most welcome.

[Landy Smurf]

Made my own center console.
I used 9 mm marine ply.
It looks pretty much the same as a regular one but with 1 main difference which I don't have the photos of yet.
I used an old center seat cover from a S3 to go over the hole as I did not want the mud ect getting through.
I used 2 bolts to attach this to the center console.
142307

[Mick_Marsh]

Made my own center console.
I used 9 mm marine ply.
It looks pretty much the same as a regular one but with 1 main difference which I don't have the photos of yet.
I used an old center seat cover from a S3 to go over the hole as I did not want the mud ect getting through.
I used 2 bolts to attach this to the center console.
142306
I'm getting an invalid link for that attachment.

[Landy Smurf]

I put in a 4 gang switch which currently has attached 2 lights- 1 cabin and 1 rear cargo area. The other 2 switches have a dual-usb and 12v cigarette outlet attached as a temporary solution.
142308

[Landy Smurf]

I'm getting an invalid link for that attachment.

Thanks, I re-edited so it should work now.

[Landy Smurf]

As you can see most things are temporarily in place. Reason for this is I am going away and going to test it out before I finish them off. The rear section behind the center console has a large compartment in it as well as the wiring.
I used cheap ply to make this part up as I am not sure if I want it there or not.
The reasons for the switches being where they are is so I can access lights and 12V while in the front cabin and in the back( where I usually sleep when away).
I could have got material ect cheaper but just went for off the shelf nearby.

Running costs so far.
2-small sheets (smaller sheets to fit in the small car) of 9mm marine ply from Bunnings $25 each- total of $50
Screws and glue- $10
2- LED lights- $18 each total $36
2 -twin sockets- Narva ( Dual usb + 12 V) from SuperCheap Auto- $31each- total $62
1-4 gang switch with wiring and fuses from Whitworths marine and leisure- $68 (could have got a 4 gang from there for $30- went for the one I really wanted though)
Total cost so far=$226
I am currently using the bottom of the rear dickie seat as an armrest.It works well and is a good resting height, however just not quite right for the other dimensions.
All the cabling and connectors, my dad already had in the shed.
I did find a good spot for the wiring from the battery though. There are a few holes there easily available.
I am thinking either marine carpet or vinyl to finish the center console off as well as the electrical compartment behind.
I do have another outdoor LED worklight that I can put on, but will wait until after this trip to see if it is worth it.

[Landy Smurf]

These are some done previously which I quite liked. I would have been happy with any of them.
142309- similar to the one I made, but this guy did a much better job.
142310- I like the simplicity of this one.
and of course Bearman did a top job of his center console area in his 6x6
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/coil-sprung-military-land-rovers/181899-what-did-you-do-your-perentie-today-123.html?181899=#post2526766

[Landy Smurf]

A lot of changes are happening with Rango.
This weekend we will be putting a 2- door defender 110 hardtop on as the canvas had a few rips and leaked.
Will be aiming to put a split tailgate in.
Need to redo the seals due to the hardtop conversion.
Will be redoing some of the electrics.
Looking at putting a second N70 battery in and do a dual battery setup.
I bought a 12v shower so will look at how it will ft and some water storage.
I bought a pair of Maxtrax and will make up a second pair for backup.
Will be looking at the age of the tyres- plenty of tread but could be getting old.
If they are old then I will have to get some new/second hand tyres to replace them.
I bought a 350w inverter- laptop and a few small appliances.
It currently jumps out of low range after about 10 meters so will need to investigate what is happening there, if you have any ideas please share them.
I have 2 days to do all this in preparation for QLD/Fraser Island round trip. Will be looking at about 2500kms.
I did do a service about 3000kms ago so will only be a check up this time.

Any suggestions or ideas please ask/state.
I will post photos of the process after it is done.

[67hardtop]

If ur getting rid of the canvas id like to put my hand up. Need some material for patches on my FFR, "bushpig".

Cheers Rod

[Landy Smurf]

At the moment I am keeping it just in case I want a repro made. If I get rid of it, I will let you know first.

[87County]

A lot of changes are happening with Rango.
...

I bought a pair of Maxtrax and will make up a second pair for backup.
.....
Any suggestions or ideas please ask/state.

I will post photos of the process after it is done.

All sounds good Mr Smurf, the best thing you can do is to be as lightweight as possible.

Just a comment: most LR owners who have purchased Maxtrax have found that they haven't needed them. We hope it's the same for you.

(And tubeless tyres on appropriate rims usually allow tyres to be deflated enough for good sand traction)

But there could be many others on Fraser who will borrow them :)

[Landy Smurf]

All sounds good Mr Smurf, the best thing you can do is to be as lightweight as possible.

Just a comment: most LR owners who have purchased Maxtrax have found that they haven't needed them. We hope it's the same for you.

(And tubeless tyres on appropriate rims usually allow tyres to be deflated enough for good sand traction)

But there could be many others on Fraser who will borrow them :)

Hey,
Thanks for the reply.
I should be travelling pretty light. I would think with all camping gear, liquids(fuel and water) and 2 passengers will add up to about 350kgs. which I think is a good travelling weight. I will be a lot less than most of the beach. It would be interesting to see the weight before and after hardtop conversion. I dont think there would be a huge amount of difference.
I really hope I don't need them, but security factor when travelling solo.
I will be running tubed tyres. I will look at tubeless for my next set of tubeless tyres.

[debruiser]

I've used both my sets of maxtraxs at once for my D90 and they still didn't do the job! well they kinda did after a (brand that shall not be named) pulled me onto them. I carry mine all the time for safety - you never know when someone else will need them.

Nice truck too! I mentioned in my thread I'm only 10 away! haha.

[weeds]

Nice truck too! I mentioned in my thread I'm only 10 away! haha.

Singleton - Mackay ??

[Mick_Marsh]

Singleton - Mackay ??
ARN

[debruiser]

Yeah sorry.... I meant ARN. I've got 49-047.

[Landy Smurf]

I have had some grease coming out of the rear passenger side hub in the last month. There has not been much come out and only after taking it for a longer drive it happens. I went for an hour drive a few days ago and when I arrived home I noticed some more had come out. I checked the temperatures of both rear hubs and the drivers side was barely warm while the passenger side was quite hot.
I have removed the hub and taken out both seals and bearings. The bearings seem to be ok (there was no noise when driving).
I have ordered new seals and bearings for both sides (can always have spares).
It took quite some effort to get the rear passenger side drum off. I should have checked both drums to compare for heat as maybe I am having a brake drag which is causing heat. I will check this out when hub is put back together.
While ordering parts I ordered new brake parts as well.
All I need now is to get a punch set to knock the races out and wait for my parts to show up.

[Landy Smurf]

I also noticed my pump washer for windscreen has stopped working. I looked at new prices for these ($55+) and have decided I can do without one for a while longer.

[Landy Smurf]

Here is part one of our trip to Fraser Island after the Land Rover 70th at Goomeri.
Was a quick edit on a computer that can't handle editing so it is a bit meh but anyways.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7BCdHSgMEoM

[grey_ghost]

Mate thanks for posting that up. It had everything in it! I did wonder how far you would fly the drone out over the water! [emoji15]

[Landy Smurf]

Mate thanks for posting that up. It had everything in it! I did wonder how far you would fly the drone out over the water! [emoji15]

I am always a bit nervous sending it out over the water. I sent it to 2kms at Easter time and the signal started to drop out. Many bricks were being laid that day.

[Aaron IIA]

Can you see your drone when it is 2km out?

[grey_ghost]

2km!! You must have massive kahoona’s mate. [emoji1303]

[Landy Smurf]

Can you see your drone when it is 2km out?

no. I did it on a property going from one house to the other in a bee line.

[Aaron IIA]

It is this kind of illegal activity that has caused CASA to impose stricter restrictions on R.C. unmanned aircraft.

[Landy Smurf]

It is this kind of illegal activity that has caused CASA to impose stricter restrictions on R.C. unmanned aircraft.

As far as I am concerned it is on our own family property the whole time and I know exactly where it is. So not a problem.

[Aaron IIA]

But it is as far as CASA is concerned. If it is 2km away and you can't see it, then the point is that you don't know exactly where it is.

[Landy Smurf]

But it is as far as CASA is concerned. If it is 2km away and you can't see it, then the point is that you don't know exactly where it is.

I know exactly where it is. Thanks.

[Aaron IIA]

Reckless behaviour like yours is jeopardising the hobby for all.
Copied from the CASA website:

The rules

You must not fly your drone higher than 120 metres (400 ft) above the ground.You must not fly your drone over or near an area affecting public safety or where emergency operations are underway (without prior approval). This could include situations such as a car crash, police operations, a fire and associated firefighting efforts, and search and rescue operations.You must not fly your drone within 30 metres of people, unless the other person is part of controlling or navigating the drone.You must fly only one drone at a time.If your drone weighs more than 100 grams:You must keep your drone at least 5.5km away from controlled aerodromes (usually those with a control tower)You may fly within 5.5km of a non-controlled aerodrome or helicopter landing site (HLS) only if manned aircraft are not operating to or from the aerodrome. If you become aware of manned aircraft operating to or from the aerodrome/ HLS, you must manoeuvre away from the aircraft and land as soon as safely possible. This includes:not operating your drone within the airfield boundary (*without approval)not operating your drone in the approach and departure paths of the aerodrome (*without approval)You must only fly during the day and keep your drone within visual line-of sight.This means being able to orientate, navigate and see the aircraft with your own eyes at all times (rather than through a device; for example, through goggles or on a video screen).You must not fly over or above people. This could include festivals, sporting ovals, populated beaches, parks, busy roads and footpaths.You must not operate your drone in a way that creates a hazard to another aircraft, person, or propertyYou must not operate your drone in prohibited or restricted areas.

* Approval is generally linked to an approved model flying association and its members

Please respect personal privacy. Don’t record or photograph people without their consent—this may breach state laws.

Important: tips for flying within the law

There might be local council and/or national park laws prohibiting drone flights in certain areas.Research the area you plan to fly and contact your council or national park if you're unsure.Don't operate near emergency services aircraft – if you fly, they can't.

Flying drones or model aircraft recreationally | Civil Aviation Safety Authority (https://www.casa.gov.au/modelaircraft)

Also:

Droneflyer | Recreational drone rules and regulation (https://droneflyer.gov.au)

[Phil B]

Great video,

Thanks for sharing it.

[Landy Smurf]

Reckless behaviour like yours is jeopardising the hobby for all.
Copied from the CASA website:

The rules

You must not fly your drone higher than 120 metres (400 ft) above the ground.You must not fly your drone over or near an area affecting public safety or where emergency operations are underway (without prior approval). This could include situations such as a car crash, police operations, a fire and associated firefighting efforts, and search and rescue operations.You must not fly your drone within 30 metres of people, unless the other person is part of controlling or navigating the drone.You must fly only one drone at a time.If your drone weighs more than 100 grams:You must keep your drone at least 5.5km away from controlled aerodromes (usually those with a control tower)You may fly within 5.5km of a non-controlled aerodrome or helicopter landing site (HLS) only if manned aircraft are not operating to or from the aerodrome. If you become aware of manned aircraft operating to or from the aerodrome/ HLS, you must manoeuvre away from the aircraft and land as soon as safely possible. This includes:not operating your drone within the airfield boundary (*without approval)not operating your drone in the approach and departure paths of the aerodrome (*without approval)You must only fly during the day and keep your drone within visual line-of sight.This means being able to orientate, navigate and see the aircraft with your own eyes at all times (rather than through a device; for example, through goggles or on a video screen).You must not fly over or above people. This could include festivals, sporting ovals, populated beaches, parks, busy roads and footpaths.You must not operate your drone in a way that creates a hazard to another aircraft, person, or propertyYou must not operate your drone in prohibited or restricted areas.

* Approval is generally linked to an approved model flying association and its members

Please respect personal privacy. Don’t record or photograph people without their consent—this may breach state laws.

Important: tips for flying within the law

There might be local council and/or national park laws prohibiting drone flights in certain areas.Research the area you plan to fly and contact your council or national park if you're unsure.Don't operate near emergency services aircraft – if you fly, they can't.

Flying drones or model aircraft recreationally | Civil Aviation Safety Authority (https://www.casa.gov.au/modelaircraft)

Also:

Droneflyer | Recreational drone rules and regulation (https://droneflyer.gov.au)

Cool story.

[Aaron IIA]

Not a story, but the regulations as set down by the government authority charged with regulating the airspace.

[Landy Smurf]

Not a story, but the regulations as set down by the government authority charged with regulating the airspace.

In reply to your comments on this thread you must be uninformed and need informing to the following.

Thread Hijacking. Thread hijacking is when a user is replying to a thread on the forums asking a different question to the original question or suggestion on the first post of that thread.

Here is a link you must need as you work with cars. Web results
14 Different Types of Screwdrivers and Their Uses | Garage Tool Advisor
Garage Tool Advisor | Homepage (https://www.garagetooladvisor.com) › diff...

[Homestar]

But it is as far as CASA is concerned. If it is 2km away and you can't see it, then the point is that you don't know exactly where it is.

Yes you do, they are GPS controlled and you can see where you are flying, so in this instance I don’t have an issue with it at all.

While I fly within the rules I have no issues with anyone flying where they want on their own property (as long as it isn’t in a no fly zone). No different to a farmer using one to check water troughs, stock etc. The rules are there for the majority and don’t cover all circumstances. I wouldn’t fly mine 2km from my house but would fly it 2km on a friends farm or property (with permission). Even on the in-laws 40 acres, I can’t see mine when it’s out at the boundary’s but they are fine that I fly there, the cows don’t seem to mind, so not sure why CASA would either and really should butt out of what is done on ones own property (again as long as it isn’t in a no fly zone) - they need to concentrate on the idiots out there that do dumb things around Airports and others properties without permission.

[Landy Smurf]

I have since sold the Defender to make more time and money for the Perentie.
I have recently serviced the passenger side rear hub, the grease was almost like oil.
I am getting heat in this hub after a longer period of driving.
I have it booked in for a service and the local mechanic is going to check this out.
The front and rear output seals are leaking so the handbrake inst usable at the moment.
I got new seals from M.R Automotive as well as fuel filter, oil filter and the inner and outer air filter. They were all genuine parts and delivered with 48 hours from order.
As it is coming up to 200,000kms, I also have the oil for engine, gearbox/transfer and diffs.
I have recently purchased an army looking water Jerry can for the back.
I am about to do the tailgate conversion as mine is a FFR.
I am also going to take out the front box that sits just behind the seat bulkhead.
I just ordered POLYSTONE 7000 from DOTMAR in order to make some draws.
I am hoping to have this done with in the first week of the holidays.
Once this is finished, I will being getting ready to paint as mine is very ordinary looking.

[Phil B]

When you do the front and rear Tc seals don’t forget to buy the 2 large nyloc nuts that hold the output flanges in place
Also check that the Tc breather is clear. A blockage could cause the output seals to leak.
The warm rear hub could be binding brake shoes
Good luck!

[Landy Smurf]

When you do the front and rear Tc seals don’t forget to buy the 2 large nyloc nuts that hold the output flanges in place
Also check that the Tc breather is clear. A blockage could cause the output seals to leak.
The warm rear hub could be binding brake shoes
Good luck!

What is the reason behind getting the 2 large nyloc nuts? are they the same nut?
Yes i will check the breathers, thanks for reminding me.
I am thinking it is the brakes rubbing on the drums. I have new brake pads and cylinders ready to go.
Thanks for your reply. I shall let you know how it goes.

[Phil B]

What is the reason behind getting the 2 large nyloc nuts? are they the same nut?
Yes i will check the breathers, thanks for reminding me.
I am thinking it is the brakes rubbing on the drums. I have new brake pads and cylinders ready to go.
Thanks for your reply. I shall let you know how it goes.

There is one large (29mm?) nyloc nut on each output shaft that secure the drive flanges.
If they are loose that could also be the source of your leaks

[Landy Smurf]

I have mostly finished doing a tailgate conversion. The Jerry can holders are still off as I am going to modify them. It is an easy conversion if you do not have a hardtop on. I had to end up cutting the 'valance' piece in half as the alternative was to take the hardtop off.
I have not decided what I will do with the tailgate lights and number plate yet- whether to go military look or series.
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[Landy Smurf]

Considering both my partner and myself are teachers who are also studying we find it hard to get away. We really only have Saturdays off. So The idea was to getaway Friday night. However unless it is daylight savings it means we will be setting up in the dark so we needed a quick getaway and an easy setup. Which is why I have decided to build in a few drawers, kitchen and bed.
I have not finished yet but I am at the stage where I want to test it out before going any further.
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During Travel the tables slide under the mattress, which makes them stable and easy to get out straight away or they can stay there if just accessing the drawers.
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First thing out when setting up will be the 2 tables or if just pulling up to sleep.
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This is the basic setup. I have a 270 awning which covers this area. I did think about putting a wooden kitchen/bench top off to the side which inserts in the front side of the kitchen like the DRIFTA ones but found this much more simple, quick and versatile.

[Landy Smurf]

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So the RHS drawer is my kitchen setup which includes fridge and water system. I ended up making this wider and taller than I had first planned.
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The windbreak on top was a throw together from left over pieces of wood I had hence why it looks a bit off.
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I have made the area deep and long enough for putting a big cooker there if I wanted to later on. However if I want it there permanently I will need to drop the height of the storage below. Which I can easily do.
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The pan style drawer was made from some left over pieces as well which is why it is not as high. I did find this to work out quite well though as it allows me to open it easy enough and it slides down for easy access too. I just have it on some aluminum angle which works fine.
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I was going to make up drawers or cupboards but found these at Bunnings which work great. One large drawer on the LHS. Which I was intended on using for pantry food.
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2 small drawers on the RHS which I intened on using for cutlery and plates/bowls.
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I have a tall but narrow storage area underneath the cooktop surface and to the LHS of the large drawer. I will at a later date make a proper drawer/slide for this but at the moment I am using a cheap plastic tub from KMART as a drawer/slide. This area easily fits large drink containers,flour,rice, cereal ect.

[Landy Smurf]

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I am still learning about electrics. Actually this is my 2nd attempt at it.
I have put in 2 switches(the blue is for the water pump, and the green is for the lights.
I have a duel USB and a single 12v accessory/cigarette socket.
I have one light(which I already had in the vehicle) to help light up on the cook top area. I decided to mount it sideways facing as it will light the area up better and won't get blocked by cookware where as if I mounted it at the back facing out it would have.
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I wanted the fridge as part of the kitchen and not on a separate slide for easy access and to mainly be using one drawer.I mounted a light on this side overlooking the fridge mainly because the fridge does not have a light in it.
If I had my time again I would have mounted all my electrics at the back corner between the fridge area and the cook top area. But this is what happens when you make things up as you go.
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I am ok enough with how the electrics and water is plumbed up. The loose cable on top is the fridge cable which I will fix soon. I am thinking of where to put an Engel outlet for a better connection.
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I have just temporarily put a small fold up coffee table behind the fridge.
I am hoping the fridge will have enough air to keep the temps down.If not I can put in vents and/or a small 12V fan to circulate air.
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Tucked in next to the fridge is a hose and tap which is connected to a 12v inline whale pump. Works quite well.
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I have given it enough length to pull out. I may put a better tap on it and shorten it later. But I think this will work better as I can wash feet off, fill buckets ect easily.
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I have at the back section a 20L water Jerry can. This is there for the water pump and as a counter balance for the drawer unit.
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I have used clear hose so I can tell that there is water in the line as the inline water pump needs to have water to it prior to use(gravity fed from the Jerry can).
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Due to the slope of the rear bulkhead teh drawers could not go all the way at the bottom without making them on an angle. I used this cavity space to put a fuse box. It is a 12 way as that is what I had but will swap it for a 6 way later on. I have it connected to a long cable with an Anderson plug on the other end. This is then connected to a long cable with Anderson plugs both ends which connects to the AGM battery. I used one of my solar ext. leads for the mean time.
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Can be seen here. I took out the plate that was there so I could access the fuse box as well as add circulation of air. I put a zip tie around the 2 Anderson plugs as I don't want them to come apart.
By having this wiring setup it pulls out and retracts with the drawer without any issues. I do know of alternatives but this was once again a quick and simple solution.

[Landy Smurf]

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The LHS drawer is at this stage one long drawer without any dividers. The sides are not as high due to the piece of wood I had at the time. This has worked out well as I can put storage containers/tubs in if I want. My original plan was for this drawer to be wider and then I could have had 2 drawers vertically orientated.
I have filled this with quite a decent amount of gear and it slides well. I have carpeted it with a car boot liner style of carpet.
In these photos it currently is storing the following; 2 chairs, a bag of firewood, fold-able solar panel, recovery gear,a few tools, lights and shower. It has much more room for gear. Which may include 2 bags for clothes. It also fits a carton of beer standing up.
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I have used plastic slides underneath. Easy to install and effective.

[Landy Smurf]

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Inside I have a 70mm thick swag mattress which fits almost perfectly(just a bit long).
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There are rear storage compartments which were already on the roof when I bought it. At times I find these annoying but they are also useful for putting some light gear up there. My ideas are Pillows, Bedding( but I would most likely have these on the bed ready to go) or clothes bags.
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I have a long LED light which puts out heaps of light(probably good enough for the cooking area really) I just need to rewire it and put some switches at the back and front.
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Down the sides I have made 4 lift off lids for access to the tub areas. The plan is to put things I would not use much such as, recovery tracks, a 43l water tank, battery?, inverter.
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I have just used some cheap angle brackets which are easy enough to take out if I need to.
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I would like to make some covers for the windows and/or tint them to reduce heat exchange and for privacy.
While I originally intended for this unit to be about 2-3 inches lower, there is still enough room to sleep in there and for us younger ones it is fine for getting up into.
Most of the time we will still take the swag which will fit in there fine.
We prefer to the swag for sleeping as it is a double with plenty of room and gets us out of the vehicle and gets better access to air flow.
The main reason for putting the mattress in the back is because I already had it so thought why not and also it just allows a place to sleep or lay down during the day or if on a big trip( wish I had this when we went to Goomeri instead of driving 13hrs straight after a long day at work and arriving there at 3am).
There are lots of things I am not happy with and that I would do different if I had my time again, but we all need to start somewhere I guess. At the end of the day it works and allows us to get away quickly with ease.
I think One of the things I like most about it is that it is setup ready to go always and you cant tell there if it is empty of has all the camping gear. It still provides full view for driving and means I don't have to be stacking camping gear like the 'Beverly Hillbillies'.
If it wasn't for our current work and study commitments including of the not so safe areas we have been working I would prefer just a swag in the back with a canvas top.

[Landy Smurf]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWGPCwbt-4k&feature=youtu.be
Showing how easy the gear drawer(LHS) slides and shuts using one hand.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7dWn5_bi4D4&feature=youtu.be
The water pump- sorry for the footage it was a bit hard late at night doing it all with my left hand while filming with my right.

[Landy Smurf]

If I was going to do it again I would use steel drawer slides on the kitchen/fridge drawer. However getting slides to do that job with the unit being 1.8m long is quite hard to get and cost a few dollars too.

[Landy Smurf]

I ended up buying more resources then I needed (when you live over an hour away to the closest big town you do that).
I also spent a bit of money on tools which most people would have so I won't include that in the cost breakdown.
A basic material and cost breakdown(rounded off) of what I actually used(including off cuts and some waste)
12mm structural ply 2400x1200 x 5 sheets= $300 *I have quite a bit left over in off cuts as due to the size of cuts I had to use more sheets
6mm marine ply 2400x1200= $70 I have most of this left over, but will use it here and there.
Plastic slides 40mm wide x 5mm thick x 2000mm long. I used 4 lots with some left over= $80(delivery was the killer as they were from Sydney to rural NSW)
Large paddle locks x 2= $80
2L black paint=$55 * I used this just to help protect the wood and to hide my bad craftsmanship
Bootliner carpet 2000mm wide by 1500mm long= $65
Marine carpet 2000mm wide x 25000mm long = $100 * I have more as I intend on using it under the mattress and in other areas(doors perhaps).
Glue= $5
Aluminium angle= $10
Storage boxes for kitchen= $60 ( would be cheaper making them but I was trying to save time).
2x switches=$10
2x lights= $35
Narva Duel socket outlet=$30
Hose with fittings= $30
electric cabling with fittings= $60
Fuse box= $80 however I will trade this for a Narva 6 way so roughly $40
Whale inline water pump=$40
Jerry can=$30 *I actually got this for the rear Jerrycan holders so could be replaced with a cheaper one for $20
Screws/bolts ect= $15
Angle brackets= $25
Fridge=$719(on sale)
a few tubs/containers=$15
Tie down straps=$10
Tie down points=$15
Plastic table 500mmx1000mm= $40(I originally planned on using this as a pullout drawer/table)*I already had the other table which is slightly larger but also $40 if you wanted one.

* I am not including camping gear I bought as some was accumulated overtime and some I still need to get as I am only just starting off with camping gear.

[Landy Smurf]

So as a Total cost it comes to about $2000(yikes) but when you take out the fridge, extra table, trade the 12 way fuse box for a 6 way fuse box and go for a cheaper Jerry can it would be a total cost of around $1150.
To make it cheaper again I could have not used carpet which would bring it down to about $1000
Could have saved $45 but making the drawers rather than buying it.
Could have saved $40 by just using gravity fed water.
Saved another $30 but just using a tap from a Jerry can.
Bringing it down to about $850
Obviously I could have saved lots more money in other areas.
I might have been able to save money by making a frame rather than using ply wood.But I find this method easy.
I could have also saved money by not using lockable drawer latches and just using a handle. I like the look of the paddle locks and like that I can lock it. Yes I know people could still easily get in if they wanted but this is an extra barrier.
I looked at DRIFTA drawers ect and while I think they are really well prices and obviously much better than mine, it would have cost $4000 or there abouts for these drawers and then I would still need to put the fridge on top of that.
Plus this way you get to learn as you do things.

[Landy Smurf]

I am sure I forgot a few things along the way but I did want to point out I did not screw, glue or bolt this down to the tub, so therefore no extra holes(not that it would really matter). Everything I have done I have made to be reversible. The unit is put it tight so does not move.
I also decided just to use the table as a support rather than installing a leg as this method works well and is an easy to do.
Before anyone says anything about the ROPs. I am very aware it is not there you don't need to spend your time lecturing me.

[cjc_td5]

How do you find sleeping with the mattress that high relative to the ceiling? Can you sit up on the bed? I looked at a similar setup for my series 109" but needed to set the bed a fair bit lower, but then the length to the bulkhead becomes an issue...

[Landy Smurf]

How do you find sleeping with the mattress that high relative to the ceiling? Can you sit up on the bed? I looked at a similar setup for my series 109" but needed to set the bed a fair bit lower, but then the length to the bulkhead becomes an issue...

Good question. I still have about 60cm of head room including the mattress and 70cm of headroom without the mattress which I find doable. If I lowered it to the same height as the top of the tub it would be a bit better. Prior to this I had a platform/shelf unit that sat on the tub wells which was fantastic but then I couldn't fit as much gear.
The worst part is getting through the tailgate area as the roof comes down at that point.
So can you sit up-not quite.
So I guess it comes down to your purposes- how often are you sleeping in it, how often do you get in and out, how capable is your body of getting in and out and how much it affects you having a smaller space.
I personally find it really easy. My partner not as much but that is more so due to the height to get in.
If I was going to build it for one person I would consider a setup similar to this where you have kitchen and cabinets ect down ones side and the bed on the other with some walkway/movement area down the middle.
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If it is a S2A or earlier you might be able to extend into the front cab and onto the firewall for a bed. I know you can with a S1 86/107/88/109.

[Landy Smurf]

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In the photo the drivers side part of the mattress has a bulge as the drivers seat is pushed backwards against it.

[Landy Smurf]

I replaced the passenger side window lock as it wasn't working at all. I ended up putting a new one in and will keep the old one and have a go at repairing it.
I made another video. It is quite long and you can see how novice I am at it but meh.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-mI_xN0ELyI&t=22s

[Landy Smurf]

After taking out the generator I had this u-bolt come undone. I bought some m8 nuts and put it back on. Not that I thought it is a crucial part but when loose it did rattle.
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[theelms66]

If that bracket bolts to the engine I'm sure your manifold will be saying "thanks"

[Landy Smurf]

good point

[Landy Smurf]

A video showing most of my camping setup. I will be doing another video soon showing the rest of the perentie.
Hoping to do some sound deadening soon.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=plQBvOIEPGA&t=43s

[Landy Smurf]

A quick follow up video from the camping setup.
I am hoping to in the April school holidays (if I have any time) install sound deadener, ROPS and fix up the front fenders, paint and rear jerry can holder.I am also hoping to fit a solar panel on top soon.
While I am no where near competent at doing any of this I am finding it fun to do so on the perentie.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ju1VCmN0tvg&t=17s