Handbrake Adjustment

[weeds]

I have not had a look yet, i'm guessing it can be adjusted with the handbrake drum/tail shaft in place.

1000km ago i dropped the engine oil and didn't notice any oil leaks around the t-case.

Any tips before a have a crack at it over the next couple of days.

[JDNSW]

Handbrake is easily adjusted with a square (10mm from memory) adjuster on the backing plate opposite the actuator. It is easier if you jack up one rear wheel to allow you to rotate the shaft. (chocks, handbrake off, out of gear).

The only problems will arise if the the brake has oil on it from a leaky seal, or if the adjuster or actuator are rusted up. The adjuster clicks into position every quarter turn, usual practice is to tighten it until the shaft is locked, then back off one click. Check for a rise in temperature of the drum on the first drive after adjusting and slacken another turn if necessary.

[weeds]

thanks for the heads up

sounds easier enough, i do recall seeing the square shaft on the front of the plate

[Captain_Rightfoot]

Originally posted by JDNSW
The only problems will arise if the the brake has oil on it from a leaky seal, or if the adjuster or actuator are rusted up. The adjuster clicks into position every quarter turn, usual practice is to tighten it until the shaft is locked, then back off one click. Check for a rise in temperature of the drum on the first drive after adjusting and slacken another turn if necessary.

Typical pommy car... if it does leak the handbrake stops working, and if it doesn't leak it rusts up... so handbrake operation is only ever temporary :roll: :roll: https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[JDNSW]

There is actually a drain that allows the oil to drip out without getting on the brake (if it isn't blocked). In the fourteen years and 330,000km I have owned my 110 the handbrake has failed exactly once (oil drain blocked), and neither the adjuster nor the operating mechanism has ever rusted up. This could hardly be called "temporary operation". While I have never driven on beaches, until the drought (and since then I have built a bridge that has never had water under it!), getting into my place has involved driving through water with high mineral content, often up to the top of the wheels, and most vehicles in this position have handbrakes that the owners get working only once a year for the pink slip. I suspect one of the reasons I have had little handbrake trouble is that it is used regularly for parking, and adjusted every service.

[stevo]

the rover handbrake are alot better than most because they are up high
and behind transfer case they are out of the crap, am doing another
toymotor handbrake tonight,half of the fleet the handbrakes are crap
lucky they are not used on the road.

I never had a problem in my old 1958 landy the handbrake was allways good just wish I could say the same for foot brakes.

[abaddonxi]

Had the handbrake get very hot one time. After JDNSW's post I'm reckoning the drain became blocked, 'cos I'm pretty sure oil was in the mix somewhere.


Cheers
Simon

[George130]

The adjusting is easy. Mine only worked for a week though. doesn't hold the vehicle at all. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ Rego's comming up soon to.

[DEFENDERZOOK]

<span style="color:blue">you will need to take off the handbrake drum and check whats going on in there....
if its all clean and in good order....then back the adjuster right off and adjust the shoes
as best as you can......</span>

[weeds]

did a quick adjustment last night. i did not take the drum off and there was no square nut/shaft however there was a hex bolt, 17mm socket was the go

should there have been clicks as i turned the bolt as there was none, there was just resistance so i'm guessing it will work loose again.

when it happen next i will pull the drum off and have a good look.

[DEFENDERZOOK]

<span style="color:blue">you need to lift one of the back wheels off the ground....
do that adjusting bolt up tight....25Nm...ahh heck....copy and past is quicker</span>

<span style="color:green">PARK BRAKE - ADJUST
Service repair no - 70.45.09
Check
NOTE: The park brake should be fully
operational on third notch of ratchet.
1. Raise one rear wheel clear of ground and
support on axle stand.
2. Release park brake lever.
3. Tighten brake adjuster to 25 Nm (18 lbf.ft) to
fully expand shoes to drum.
4. Back off adjuster 1 1 /2 turns, check that drum is
free to rotate.
5. Check operation of park brake lever to give pawl
2 notches free movement on ratchet before
being fully operational on third notch of ratchet.
Adjust park brake accordingly if lever travel
exceeds the above tolerance.
CAUTION: Cable adjustment must ONLY
be used for initial setting and to
compensate for cable stretch. It MUST
NOT be used to take up brake shoe wear, which
MUST be adjusted at brake drum.
6. Remove axle stand and wheel chock.</span>

[George130]

Zook that was my mistake I didn't jack up a wheel. I did release the hand brake and have it in neutral with the wheels chocked.

[weeds]

i had it on the third notch but the shoes were rubbing a little so i backed it off a little more, fifth notch is holding pretty good