Where to obtain door seals / rubbers for Defender 130?

[VladTepes]

Though I presume all pre 2007 Defenders are the same...

I noticed that the door seals (well, what are laughably called seals, so 'rubbers' is probably a better word) on my ute are cactus. Shot. Buggered. Stuffed. Toast.

If anyone can point me in the right direction as to where to obtain replacements, ideally for less than heap$$$$, that'd be great.

Cheers

[Mark130]

British Auto parts
Land Rover Parts - RUBBER SEALS - DEFENDER (http://www.roverparts.com.au/rubber_seals___defender)

sell them , but no idea of quality or other price comparisons


Side question. Windscreens O'Brien replaced my windscreen rubber about 5 years ago after my original one fell apart. They said their rubber was much better than the original. They also said they could do my 130 rear quarter cab rubbers. So I'm also wondering how the UK sourced rubbers stack up, and if there are any alternatives.

[POD]

I retrofitted the late model door seals to my 2008 130, it was well worth it; the hot wind that roars in under the doors in hot weather is a thing of the past and the noise level is much reduced.

[incisor]

I retrofitted the late model door seals to my 2008 130, it was well worth it; the hot wind that roars in under the doors in hot weather is a thing of the past and the noise level is much reduced.

care to elaborate a little?

was there much too it ?

[Ancient Mariner]

care to elaborate a little?

was there much too it ?
Have a look at post 3940 what did you do to your landy today

AM

[POD]

care to elaborate a little?

was there much too it ?

It was a few of years ago, got the suggestion from a post on here so search should bring up threads with part numbers etc. The late model Defender lower door seals are a modern car-style seal rather than the old L-section rubber joke. The retrofit involved drilling some holes in the door frames, maybe an hour or so's work.

[KeithMac]

Have a look here
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/128530-puma-my11-new-door-seals-last.html

[VladTepes]

And they'd be suitable for a Tdi, or are they only for Puma Deefers?

[Bigbjorn]

And they'd be suitable for a Tdi, or are they only for Puma Deefers?

UES (United Engineering Supplies) sell all sorts of body and smash repair. Clips rubbers, funny things. You name it, they probably have it.

[86mud]

Two options: Go to Clark Rubber. Use your existing seal and choose a new pitchweld door seal profile to match.

Pinchweld - Rubber Extrusion | Clark Rubber (http://www.clarkrubber.com.au/pvc-black-pinchweld-with-side-bulb-large-15mm-x-10mm)

This is $18/m and you will about 2m per door. But then you need to some cut to length (very sharp scissors or knife). You can use silicone to join the corners.

Or Genuine seals are available here:

Land Rover Parts - DOOR SEALS - DEFENDER (http://www.roverparts.com.au/door_seals___defender)

They are $45 per door plus postage.

The above rubbers are only for around the doors. You will need a different rubber for along the bottom. On yours, the seal is attached to the body, later models ( i think from pumas on) have the seal attached to the door.

For your model I have found that the Britpart rubbers are softer then the Bearmach ones. The softer rubber makes it easier to shut the door. These rubbers get abused by people getting in and out of the vehicle. so wear out quite quickly. They are also attached with rivets so are a little more work to drill out the old rivets and attach the seal using new rivets.

Refer to the Landrover Parts link above for these lower door seals

[VladTepes]

At say $36-ish per door using DIY pinchweld vs $45 for 'proper' door seals the first option doesn't seem all that good.

The 'proper' ones would more likely give a better end result.

[MLD]

I fitted these to a MY10. I assume they would work on pre MY07 but can't be sure. they are a league above the factory issue for MY10.

Britcar (UK) Ltd


Part numbers are:


1 x LR029307, WEATHERSTRIP - DOOR - LOWER (2nd Row)


1 x LR029308, WEATHERSTRIP - DOOR - LOWER (2nd Row)


2 x LR029309, WEATHERSTRIP - DOOR - LOWER (Front Doors)

[manic]

The main door seals are interchangable. Any old part numbers have most likely been superceeded, so same part number for all defenders. I bought pattern seals before throwing them away and getting genuine. If you want doors that close properly, pay the premium!

Got mine from island4x4. Best price at the time

Puma bottom seals need holes in your frame to hook in clips. I use both old and new type bottom seals on the front doors, one on sill and one on door bottom - double seal!

[VladTepes]

I haven't done this yet.

SO just to clarify - Puma rubbers WILL fit Tdi Defender - just neees some holes drilled to attach the seals?

And where's the best place to buy these days?

[Trout]

Be careful what brand you buy for the main door seal - not the bottom one. I bought some cheapies for my tdi and could not close the door with any amount of adjusting. They had a stiff insert at the bend near the striker. The door would just bounce of this and not latch. I bought some from Bearmach and door closes no problem they are much softer and have no insert. I would get genuine seals if you can find any for a good price. The puma seals are the same.

For the bottom seal I retrofitted late model puma seals to the door. Involves drilling out some rivets but easy to do and work better than the body mounted seals.

[VladTepes]

Do you have a link to the bearmach ones?
Also would you go oem over bearmach if available?

[Trout]

Not sure how to post links here. The Bearmach site is pretty average to use as the part descriptions are terrible so its a bit of a lottery sometimes. I had a look and I am pretty sure it was part no BR 1037 that I got. Just called right seal. They also have the puma lower seal you can retrofit to a tdi. Lower front door weatherstrip LR029309.

Re OEM. Yes probably if I could get some at a reasonable price. Nothing wrong with the Bearmach ones so far but suspect that they won't be a durable as the originals were. However you can buy a lot of the bearmach ones for the price of OEM.

[Chenz]

Which ones stop the bloody squeak? It drives me mad. The only thing that seems to help is Lanolin spray. Trouble is the 130 is starting to smell like a shearing shed

[Trout]

Which ones stop the bloody squeak? It drives me mad. The only thing that seems to help is Lanolin spray. Trouble is the 130 is starting to smell like a shearing shed

None of mine squeak....but then again after driving my defender for about 20 years they could be playing one of Bach's Symphonies and I wouldn't hear a thing!

[VladTepes]

The doors of mine do have a seal fitted to the bottom of the door, and not to the floor /sill.
It's a 95 so I assume from what's being said, that's aftermarket.
It looks old (and isn't very flexible) so perhaops its just a bit of generic rubber seal a previous owner fitted....

I'll have a look at the Bearmach site and the part number you mentioned as a starting point. Thanks Trout.

[VladTepes]

I fitted these to a MY10. I assume they would work on pre MY07 but can't be sure. they are a league above the factory issue for MY10.

Britcar (UK) Ltd


Part numbers are:


1 x LR029307, WEATHERSTRIP - DOOR - LOWER (2nd Row)


1 x LR029308, WEATHERSTRIP - DOOR - LOWER (2nd Row)


2 x LR029309, WEATHERSTRIP - DOOR - LOWER (Front Doors)

Your Search Results > (https://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?query=LR029307&xBrand=&part_type=&xSupplierID=&product-sort=&xPerPage=10)

There are 3 different brands with the same part number - Genuine, Britpart and Bearmach.
Do you know which you got?

[Trout]

Don't really remember sorry as I got the lower seal a long time ago.. I can say I am generally pretty reluctant to buy anything from one of those brands and its not the most expensive one!

Just a note when fitting them. Take care when drilling out the rivets on the bottom of the door. You need to use the correct size drill bit. I think form memory you need two different size bits as all the push fit clips on the seal are not all the same. Its awkward to get the drill in to do some of the holes but it is possible without removing the door. On one hole I think I let the drill wander a bit and the hole was ever so slightly oversize. This was enough so the clip would not stay attached. Noting that could not be fixed with a bit of glue though.

I think somebody did a good post about how to fit them with drill sizes etc a few years ago.