Salisbury in SWB...what about the nose angle?

[Tomkah]

Hi all,

I am in the process of fitting a Salisbury to my SWB. I have read as much as I can but have been unable to find a proper write up. If anybody has a link, please post here.

Also, I am getting conflicting messages about raising the nose angle of the diff. Some say raise it by 3-5 degrees, others say don't. Any thoughts?

Spring mounts are removed, waiting to weld the "feet" back on. SWB has parabolics. Engine and gearbox are standard 2.25 petrol. At the moment it is a bare chassis.

Thanks,

Thomas

[DeeJay]

Attached is a link to some discussion on this. If the Parabolics are SWB I wonder if the extra weight is a concern?
I'm assuming the LWB Parabolics are meant to support a Salisbury.

Salisbury diffs and series III 88" (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-iii/150342-salisbury-diffs-series-iii-88-a.html)

David

[Tomkah]

Hi David,

thanks for the response and the link. I had seen it and actually asked Toad about his opinion as he mentioned the 3-5 degrees tilt, just haven't heard back yet.

I believe that the weight of the axle is not a problem as it's unsprung weight. The wheels carry the axles and the axles carry the rest of the vehicle, cushioned by the springs and shocks.

My question is, does the axle needs to be tilted up to help with the prop shaft angle? I mean I could do it afterwards with shims but attaching the "feet" in an angle could give me a head start. My problem is that because I am a bit pressed for space, I have to assemble things as they become available, so at the moment I am trying to turn the chassis into a roller, therefore I can't just give it a try and see what the best angle is.

Cheers,

Thomas

[Ozdunc]

Generally the output flange of the transfer case and the output flange of the diff should be parallel, but not in line. The angle between the flange and the drive shaft should be somewhere around 2-3deg, can be more depending on design, but it should be the same at either end of the driveshaft.
If the Salisbury nose is longer than the Rover diff you going to have to lift the nose so the driveshaft/flange angle mimics that of the transfer/driveshaft, and I think you going to have to do that once you've assembled it and got weight on the springs.

Yep its a PITA, but not as much as having constant driveline vibrations and chirping from the UJs

[Tomkah]

...and I think you going to have to do that once you've assembled it and got weight on the springs.

Yep its a PITA, but not as much as having constant driveline vibrations and chirping from the UJs

I think you are right. Might just assemble it with the "feet" in position but not welded up. I can then align it later and tack it on. With all new bolts etc should be a breeze to disassemble and weld up. I guess I can't preempt everything.

Thanks again everybody.

[Ozdunc]

If you can support the springs under the U bolt plates and leave the U bolts slack you should be able play around with the diff angle fairly easily, then work out your feet from there

[mick88]

I have a 2A shorty with a Salisbury in it.
It was set up and fitted by a previous owner.
Seems to work well, does/hasn't given any grief.

Cheers, Mick.

[incisor]

i've seen 2 over the years, both had shims between spring and diff

from memory from about 1mm at the rear to about 3mm at the front..

but i never measured them and to this day have no idea why you would want to do such conversion in the first place if just using a standard power plant :p

[Tomkah]

Hi guys,

thanks for the info. The reason why I am doing this is that my original diff needed an overhaul and I found a Salisbury axle for cheap. I have now remove the feet and therefore destroyed my original axle housing so I kinda painted myself into a corner.

And I guess once I have done the conversion, I know how to do it...but you are right, it is overkill for this engine...

Cheers,

Thomas

[ian4002000]

When I was considering putting a Salisbury in my last SWB I was told the best thing to do was fit the axle put some angle in the setting and tighten the bolts and test drive to see if it vibrates before welding the mounts. If it vibrates adjust the angle until there are no vibrations. I didn't end up changing the axle but the test drive method sounds best.
Ps you do realise you will need a shorter tailshaft and if you are doing serious off roading you may need high angle uni joints to stop destroying unis and breaking tailshafts.

Ian

[goingbush]

Have installed Salisburys in SWB series in the past. Its vital that do you DO NOT point the nose of the diff upwards, Keep it horizontal.

2 reasons 1 the pinion bearing will not get proper lubrication , and more importantly you will get vibration, you will need Double Cardan joints to eliminate vibes & the shaft is too short to do so.

Move the diff rearward on the axle by drilling the centre bolt holes as far forward in the spring perch as possible .

I would however not install a Salisbury on a SWB now that there are better options.