Defender Puma 130 Engine Rebuilt Stronger

[1N3U0T]

Hi All,

I'm rebuilding my 2009 Defender Puma Engine to a higher std than factory, well at least try to anyway.

Overheating. blowing coolant out overflow bottle, extreme egt temps 900 plus whilst towing a 1.4 Ton Camper trailer over 9000km on last trip SA. Dis-assembled to find cracked piston number 4 and cracked heat over water jacket in

I have sourced stepped ductile liners to improve bore strength and to help seal against the head, by a whisker.

Trying to source a high volume oil pump version that was fitted to some incarnation of this motor be it Land Rover or Ford or Jaguar or Citroen etc.

Also there is a high capacity sump (not the transit van one as it will hit the front prop shaft, there is a LR version i have heard of from a UK workshop.

Some other nice upgrade is a double row timing chain option from the earlier versions, but not sold on that idea as yet.

I have looked into the factory fitted Centrifuge a top the motor but am not convinced it a cheap way to go, I think, the newer compressed air versions are much more efficient and do not require a 25mm I.D. return pipe to the sump. Just a small hose return as the feed oil is also small, classified as secondary oil filtration.

The engine bottom end has been stripped to find all replacement bearing shells to be STD OEM sizing.


Now if anyone has been down this track please do tell.

I have found a interim engine with a few issues, but hope to sort them out before fitting to get the vehicle mobile again.
That is fit new injectors, new front main seal (currently leaking) and also replace rear main seal. Yes I have the tools to align them.
Also found the turbo to semi seized from sitting 5 years and supposedly has 55,000km before removed from a 2008 model 110 Puma.

Bit of a gamble but hope it turns out to be serviceable for the interim while I build a stout 300,000km reliable heart.

Talk soon

Cheers

1N3U0T

[MLD]

I'm surprised that you are able to sleeve line the bores. I made enquires about rebuilding a MY10 to increase capacity and was told that i couldn't and one of the reasons was that you couldn't sleeve the bore. I can only relay what i was told.

If you find the exercise too expensive, the alternative is a new long block from Transit Auto in Victoria. The 2.4 sell for $6k and a 2.2 for $4.5k. I was quoted $7k for a roll in drive out engine swap for the 2.4. Won't include the upgrades you write of but will get you on the road with minimal fuss.

[Beery]

I like where you're going with this.
AS MLD says, it might be less hassle in the long run to start with a new short motor and build from there. They're a pretty rock solid motor, but they do work pretty hard in the bigger Defenders.
Keeping exhaust and coolant temps under control is obviously key.

For a start, I'd remove the catalyst and map the EGR shut and remove all associated hardware (you'd need to leave the motor of the EGR valve plugged in to fool the ECU into thinking its still there, but the rest of it can go). This stuff all stores heat and restricts airflow through the engine bay.

A bigger intercooler is a no brainer for most parts of Australia and possibly a bigger radiator.
The radiator is important as it also sheds heat from the fuel cooler and oil cooler. Lower oil temp will increase oil pressure slightly and result in more regular flow from the piston cooling jets as they're pressure actuated. The oil cooler has its own thermostat so don't worry about over cooling.
Lower fuel temps are pretty self explanatory.

I ditched the cabin air intake duct from the LHS wing panel. It's pretty much useless and again restricts airflow out of the engine bay. Removing it gives much better access to the side of the engine and it was rubbing on the EGR coolant hose. Speaking of which, if you remove the EGR hardware, be sure to get rid of the associated coolant hoses! Just another source of trouble.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/457.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/458.jpg


Convert the aircon to hychill or something similar and ditch the electric condenser fan. I'd say the fan motor alone blocks a good 5% of the condenser area. Hychill will lower the running pressures of the aircon, reducing the shaft power needed. You can keep the fan if you really want to, but the lower head pressure means it will probably never come on.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/459.jpg

[Shoogs]

Been mentioned before but I think I might go down this route... albeit replacing a 300tdi...

Cummins Crate Engines - Get Ready to Repower - Cummins Engines (https://cumminsengines.com/repower.aspx)#

[1nando]

I posted a egt thread a while ago which you may find helpful.

Puma 2.2 Egt's (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/243318-puma-2-2-egts.html)