Never towed/owned a caravan before.. advice

[Lukeis]

Hi.

I just bought my first caravan (jayco sterling outback pop top) and have been told it has electric brakes and needs a 12 pin plug.

1) I know the D4's have the plugs but the salesperson asked me to check if I need a brake controller? if so, how much and where should I get this in Sydney?
2) Do our plugs have two 'hot plugs' which apparently is for the fridge etc

also, I live on a steepish street, can you park a van safely on a hill?

any other tips are appreciated as well.

Thanks!

[ATH]

I'm no electrician but yes if it's over 750kg you'll need a brake controller by law. As to parking on a hill I'd suggest you use chocks as well because the handbrake shouldn't trusted.
AlanH.

[Geedublya]

Have a look at the compliance plate on the a frame of the van, that will give the GTM. If it is over 2 tonne you will need a brake controller. If the GTM is under 2 tonne but doesn't have a coupling with over-ride brakes you will need to change the coupling or use a brake controller.

As for the plugs it is best to make an adapter between the vans 12pin plug and the two Landrover sockets. I wouldn't be running the fridge using the original Jayco wiring as it puts 15A through the 12 pin plug and I have seen them start to melt from the heat. It is best to re-wire using some decent cable and an Anderson plug. The Jayco wiring will only trickle charge the battery when connected to the car which I think is next to useless so I like to re-wire that as well.

Parking can be done safely on a slope but I would chock the wheels as well as use the handbrake.

[LRD414]

Luke,

For the brake controller, you really should get yourself acquainted with this sticky thread> D4 Electric Trailer Brake Wiring (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/97935-d4-electric-trailer-brake-wiring.html)
Even if you don't diy you need to ensure the fitment is done correctly.

For the plug you have options and there's been quite a few threads on the various ways people have done it, including:
- convert D4 to have a 12 pin interface
- make up a lead to connect from the two sockets on the D4 to the 12 pin plug on the van

This thread has good info and links> 12S Tow electrics (white plug) removal (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/223901-12s-tow-electrics-white-plug-removal.html)

General things you'd like to know about caravans would be best asked here> https://www.aulro.com/afvb/trailers-vans-and-campers/

Cheers,
Scott

[shanegtr]

If it is over 2 tonne you will need a brake controller. If the GTM is under 2 tonne but doesn't have a coupling with over-ride brakes you will need to change the coupling or use a brake controller.


Not entirly acurate - if it has electric brakes (which the OP's van does) then you'll need a brake controller for them. For trailers under 2t the brakes can be either electric or hydraulic/cable override. As the OP's van is electric brakes then he shouldnt have an override coulpling.
Over 2t GTM you'll need breakaway brakes (at least here in WA you do)

[Geedublya]

Not entirly acurate - if it has electric brakes (which the OP's van does) then you'll need a brake controller for them. For trailers under 2t the brakes can be either electric or hydraulic/cable override. As the OP's van is electric brakes then he shouldnt have an override coulpling.
Over 2t GTM you'll need breakaway brakes (at least here in WA you do)

My understanding is over 750kg but under 2 tonne you need trailer brakes, what form that takes is entirely up to you. On my previous van I had both electric brakes and over ride brakes. I could then tow it with a car without a brake controller and it gave me redundancy if I had a problem with the electric brakes.

In NSW you also need breakaway brakes and a remote battery monitor if the trailer is over 2 tonne.

Braking systemThe minimum braking system for a trailer depends on the type of trailer, its weight and the weight of the vehicle:


0 – 750 kg loaded weight – no brakes required.
751 – 2000 kg loaded weight – braking on both wheels on at least one axle.
2001– 4500 kg loaded weight – braking on all wheels, and an automatic breakaway system in case the trailer becomes detached from the vehicle.

Brakes must be operable from the driver’s seating position.

[dirvine]

The other thing you may also need to consider is does the van have anti sway? Mine does and it was wired through a RED anderson plug. They are different to the GREY ones and they are not interchangeable. (e do not connect with one another). I installed the traxide dual battery with the anderson plug to the rear and piggybacked a red plug as well onto it. The van fridge runs through the grey plug and the red for the anti sway. As Scott says there is very good instructions on how to fit/wire the plugs and brake controllers. Some are very long threads and in reality the wiring diagrams and all the info you need is in the last 2-3 pages.

[shanegtr]

My understanding is over 750kg but under 2 tonne you need trailer brakes, what form that takes is entirely up to you. On my previous van I had both electric brakes and over ride brakes. I could then tow it with a car without a brake controller and it gave me redundancy if I had a problem with the electric brakes.

In NSW you also need breakaway brakes and a remote battery monitor if the trailer is over 2 tonne.

Braking system

The minimum braking system for a trailer depends on the type of trailer, its weight and the weight of the vehicle:


0 – 750 kg loaded weight – no brakes required.
751 – 2000 kg loaded weight – braking on both wheels on at least one axle.
2001– 4500 kg loaded weight – braking on all wheels, and an automatic breakaway system in case the trailer becomes detached from the vehicle.

Brakes must be operable from the driver’s seating position.
Yes correct, I was more pointing out that if electric brakes are fitted then chances are the coupling wont be an override type and if you do have override brakes then a controler is not normally required

[Disco4Dave]

As your van already has electric brakes your best solution will be to install an electric brake controller in your car. We have a Redarc Pro in our D4, installed by the local LR dealer, and once it had a proper earth (grrr!) it worked great.

DO NOT try towing your van just using an adapter harness to connect as you may find the connector pin commonly used in Aus for electric brakes will become suddenly active when the car lights go on, as that pin is used in UK for auxiliary trailer lights! This should be fixed when you get a brake controller installed.

For power to a van I first tried taking power from the standard connectors and found they were limited to 15A, with a fuse behind the glove box. Since then I have fitted a Traxide 2nd battery and power feed direct to an Anderson plugs at the rear of the car so we now have 40A (or is it 50A, can't remember) available.

I have an adapter harness I made from 2 round plugs that fit the std sockets (bought from ebay) to a 12 pin socket, for connecting trailers with 7 or 12 pin plugs.

[Lukeis]

Thanks for all the info guys, I’m reading up on the links etc now.

the van is this one. Access Denied (http://www.caravancampingsales.com.au/buy/used/OAG-AD-15447722/2013-Jayco-Sterling-17557-Outback) Access Denied (http://www.caravancampingsales.com.au/buy/used/OAG-AD-15447722/2013-Jayco-Sterling-17557-Outback)

its 2.1ton and has sway bars and electric brakes.

the first priority is getting it from the shop to home and for that it seems I need a brake controller

secondly do I need something for the lights to work? They appear LED or will the diagrams and harness fix that issue too?

[Lukeis]

My link works but says access denied for some reason

[Milton477]

Nice looking van.

[bee utey]

My link works but says access denied for some reason

Use the "Link" button in the toolbar above the posting window and you can have any title you want. [bigsmile1]

[weeds]

Getting to know your setup is also important if you’re just starting out....

1st never believe the tare weight on the plate....good chance your van is heavier at time of pickup.

Track down a weigh bridge and weigh your van, if the weigh bridge isn’t busy do your tow ball weight as well buy dropping the jockey wheel onto the weigh bridge with the landy off the bridge and lift the hitch off the tow ball.

Than when you have loaded the van with everything you’d like to take including full tank of water take it over the weigh bridge.

If you landy is decked out for touring with rear wheel carrier, draws, fridges etc it’s also handy to have a rough idea of your axle weights.

Probably sounds a bit daunting and a high percentage of owner never check their weights.

[donh54]

Excellent advice from Weeds above. Just looking at the published figures you only have the capacity to add 300 odd kgs to that van before reaching the GVM. By the time you foll gas bottles, water tanks, add clothing and bedding, and stock the fridge, there won't be a lot left.
When you get it loaded and weighed, do a short trip or two before starting the big lap. Get any issues, minor or major, sorted before the big trip starts.
Enjoy! !

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Lots of people on here tow with a D4,, I would think all the specific D4 questions would be answered by now,, just need a bit of research[thumbsupbig]

Parking it on a hill??
mines not steep by any means,, and common sense will tell you if its possible.....
Even on a slight incline the first time you do it :eek2::eek2::eek2::eek2:

I use a chock under all four wheels,(knocked into the tyre, a club hammer is good for this)
leave the chains ON,
disconnect electrics.
use the jockey wheel to lift it off the coupling, (can you guys drop the car?)
cringe,
wait till the van has settled on the chocks,
undo chains, drive off
level the van.
If its staying put for a while I use a chassis stand instead of a jockey wheel.
reversal is easy with two people,, (due to driveshaft handbrake and space between tyres its harder by yourself [bighmmm],,)

[drivesafe]

Hi Lukeis, if your trailer’s GTM exceeds 2 tons, with a NSW rego, you will need an In-Cab Breakaway Battery Monitor.


If you do need one, PM me as I make a Wireless Breakaway Battery Monitor, certified for use in NSW.

[Lukeis]

Thanks for the heads up, Ill do some research now.

I couldn’t find them on your website, how much are they?

[crawal]

There are companies doing a driver training course , teaching people to reverse , turn etc .Good value as friend did them in Melbourne after husband had a stroke and couldnt drive,so teach the other members in the family (lucky having a bit of land all my family can hook up and reverse the van)

[drivesafe]

Thanks for the heads up, Ill do some research now.
Hi again Luke, like many other products, I have not had time to post up details on my website about my Wireless Breakaway Battery Monitors.


The list price is $225, but the AULRO member's price is $185.


PLEASE NOTE, while you are doing your research, be VERY careful of the different wireless devices being promoted as "suitable" for monitoring the Breakaway Battery.


There are a number of wireless "VOLTAGE" monitors being promoted, using dodgy advertising, as being Wireless Breakaway Battery Monitors.


These “VOLTAGE” monitors not only do NOT meet the legal requirements, but poor soles who have fitted them, thinking they had done the right thing, are getting fines of up top $600 when a random roadside test is conducted.


My Wireless Breakaway Battery Monitor checks the “CONDITION” of the breakaway battery by continually conducting load test on the Breakaway Battery, while you are driving.


The In-Cab module, which simply plugs into a cigarette socket, then indicates the condition of the Breakaway Battery.


The In-Cab module show a constant GREEN LED if the Breakaway Battery is fully charged.


A flashing GREEN LED indicates the Breakaway Battery is not fully charged buy has sufficient capacity to apply the trailer brakes and maintain them in an ON state for at least 15 minutes.


A constant RED LED indicates the Breakaway Battery is low and should be charged before proceeding.


If the LED is flashing RED and GREEN and the Buzzer is pulsing, this indicates the Breakaway Battery is either fault or missing.


If you use a number of different vehicles to tow your van, the In-Cab module is simply moved from one vehicle to another and the vehicles can be 12v or 24v


No Pairing or setting up is needed, just plug the In-Cab module in to a socket and go.

[Redback]

Thanks for all the info guys, I’m reading up on the links etc now.

the van is this one. Access Denied (http://www.caravancampingsales.com.au/buy/used/OAG-AD-15447722/2013-Jayco-Sterling-17557-Outback) Access Denied (http://www.caravancampingsales.com.au/buy/used/OAG-AD-15447722/2013-Jayco-Sterling-17557-Outback)

its 2.1ton and has sway bars and electric brakes.

the first priority is getting it from the shop to home and for that it seems I need a brake controller

secondly do I need something for the lights to work? They appear LED or will the diagrams and harness fix that issue too?

No you won't for this purpose, just turn your headlights on and everything will work on the van as it should, the only light that won't work is your trailer indicator on your dash.

Once you sort everything else out then you can look for a device for the lights, the device for the D4 is a little cheaper and less complicated than the one for the D3, the D4 doesn't flicker like the D3 does when LEDs are involved.

Go down and speak to the guys at Mitchell Bros in Brookvale, they should be able to help you they are at 16 Chard Rd, Brookvale.

[Geedublya]

Being a 2013 caravan I suspect the taillights will be incandescents not led.

[DiscoJeffster]

Being a 2013 caravan I suspect the taillights will be incandescents not led.

My camper is a 2009 and it had LED lights from new, so not a reasonable assumption as I found out.

[Geedublya]

I’m talking specifically about Jaycos.

[Lukeis]

Would you recommend the use of extended mirrors for a van this size? 17.5’
Is there a preferred one for a D4?

[DiscoMick]

Definitely get a brake controller for safety reasons. You don't want the van pushing the vehicle. Redarc and Tekonsha are the most common ones.Any decent auto electrician should be able to do it.
Get the auto electrician to look at the van and see if the charging system will keep the van battery charged while travelling. You may need to add a DC-DC charger in the van to boost the charge coming through the trailer plug.
You might also consider if the van has enough solar to keep it charged.

[drivesafe]

Get the auto electrician to look at the van and see if the charging system will keep the van battery charged while travelling. You may need to add a DC-DC charger in the van to boost the charge coming through the trailer plug.
Unless the van is equipped with lithium batteries, there is absolutely no advantage to fitting a DC/DC device in the van.
Both the voltage and alternator size in most Land Rovers, including D4, means fitting a DC/DC device will be a BIG step backwards, and will mean it will take MUCH longer to recharge low batteries in a caravan than what the alternator can do, by itself.

The way they promote DC/DC devices are one of the biggest con jobs ever invented.

[orville]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/.../216582-landrover-d4-mirrors.html

I have a Brunsgaard set with 2 point attachment. Drove 20 000km around Australia including gravel without them falling off.

The salesman should have installed a brake controller as part of the deal. Redarc towpro is worth a look, they are automatic once set. Get the dial up where you can see it. Mine is too far down near my knee and I can't see the colour of the light or the settings easily. It is blue when on auto, red on manual.

404 Not Found (https://www.aulro.com/...3.../229562-)redarc-tow-pro-problem.html

D4 will tow your van easily, mine is similar.

I made up a removable electrical connection between the van and vehicle, 12 pins one end and Land Rover plugs the other. I did this rather than a permanent wiring so someone else could tow the van if necessary. I added resistors to the van on the a Frame in a metal box so the Land Rover will recognise the trailer.

[orville]

Have a look at the posts on towing in Sport mode and make your own decision. My son has a 6 speed gearbox in a 2.7L D3 which was shuddering, we changed his oil (special oil from Motospecs or Repco) in a caravan park and now he uses Sport mode and has had no further problem. I started doing the same but not sure if it made any difference except on hills.

[Milton477]

Unless the van is equipped with lithium batteries, there is absolutely no advantage to fitting a DC/DC device in the van.
Both the voltage and alternator size in most Land Rovers, including D4, means fitting a DC/DC device will be a BIG step backwards, and will mean it will take MUCH longer to recharge low batteries in a caravan than what the alternator can do, by itself.

The way they promote DC/DC devices are one of the biggest con jobs ever invented.

My van is now equipped with Lithiums.
The D4 manages to pump 40A at idle into the Lithiums in the van without a DC to DC charger, just a 25mm2 cable in the van from the tow bar to the batteries.
I agree, no DC to DC needed even for Lithiums.

[DiscoMick]

My van is now equipped with Lithiums.
The D4 manages to pump 40A at idle into the Lithiums in the van without a DC to DC charger, just a 25mm2 cable in the van from the tow bar to the batteries.
I agree, no DC to DC needed even for Lithiums.
40A into the van battery is great, but I've seen others suffer from several voltage drop, so it pays to check is all I was saying.

[Rossandjulie]

Agree with all above, first and foremost i believe is safety.
hence a brake controller...red arc I have has a simple switch on the dash with the 'works' under the bonnet.....
Changed one of the plugs to a 12 pin which fits nicely behind the bumper cover.
with regard to parking the Van on a hill or in any suburban situation, security would be paramount due to theft and a caravan storage yard would be my preferred solution.
Towing a breeze, enjoy without getting to complicated

[oldie4wder]

Hi
If you've never towed a caravan, I'd strongly recommend getting some good instruction on towing. How to minimise oscillations, etc. Too many accidents caused by people on their first caravan trip. Eg, if it starts to sway, DON"T apply the brake! instead accelerate to pull it straight. If you apply the brake you'll end up off the road, hopefully still right side up. Learn how to pack the van to avoid overloading the towbar and keep your front wheels on the ground, and minimise pendulum effect. Also advice on how to back into parking spaces - so much safer and easier if you get good advice first. Have a safe and great trip
Richard

[Jaybee]

Lots of people on here tow with a D4,, I would think all the specific D4 questions would be answered by now,, just need a bit of research[thumbsupbig]

Parking it on a hill??
mines not steep by any means,, and common sense will tell you if its possible.....
Even on a slight incline the first time you do it :eek2::eek2::eek2::eek2:

I use a chock under all four wheels,(knocked into the tyre, a club hammer is good for this)
leave the chains ON,
disconnect electrics.
use the jockey wheel to lift it off the coupling, (can you guys drop the car?)
cringe,
wait till the van has settled on the chocks,
undo chains, drive off
level the van.
If its staying put for a while I use a chassis stand instead of a jockey wheel.
reversal is easy with two people,, (due to driveshaft handbrake and space between tyres its harder by yourself [bighmmm],,)

All of the above, but I'll add one more thing to watch out for if you are parking facing downhill. Be very careful to tightly chock all the wheels (never rely on the handbrake) as if it's is not chocked tightly the van will roll forward when taken off the tow ball and most likely put the drawbar through your D4's tailgate. Same applies when parked on the flat and you use a leveling ramp on one side. Always chock properly.

I have a Red Arc brake controller and had the D4 rewired with a 12 pin connector and two Anderson plugs (one for the power and the other the ESC). I coupled this with a Mitch Hitch on the D4 and a DO35 coupler on the van. Best system ever for a larger van.

Lastly, when connecting and disconnecting the 12 pin plug, never wiggle it sideways (only up and down) as sideways closes the pins together and you'll connect one day, drive off and find that you have no brakes. The Red Arc brake controller will glow red/purple and you will need to find the brake pin (on the 12 pin connector) and prize it open a bit to get contact. Easy fix.

Also when you get a Red Arc brake controller fitted ensure that the earth is connected by heavy duty cable directly to the battery, not the chassis, otherwise the controller will go into 'Limp' mode when you least expect it and you will lose the brakes. Yes, experience. 400klm on a hilly, windy road in Central Queensland was a real kangaroo ride without caravan brakes.

[lucecv623]

After years of total enjoyment of my 2010 D4, bought in the UK and now with me in Aussie, I have succumbed to the ‘pursuasion’ of my missus and ordered a Jurgens Lunagazer for delivery in March ‘18. This is after swearing I’d never tow a van - maybe this has something to do with being a grey nomad. Against this background, this thread is particularly useful so many thanks to all the contributors! Any more useful tips would be greatly appreciated - especially ones born out of seasoned caravanning and not even on the radar screen of a novice like me (despite my research). Looking forward to meeting many of you on the road in time to come. Cheers!

[DiscoJeffster]

Also when you get a Red Arc brake controller fitted ensure that the earth is connected by heavy duty cable directly to the battery, not the chassis, otherwise the controller will go into 'Limp' mode when you least expect it and you will lose the brakes. Yes, experience. 400klm on a hilly, windy road in Central Queensland was a real kangaroo ride without caravan brakes.

OP, This last statement I’d take with a pinch of salt. Nothing should be connected directly to the battery’s earth as it messes with the BMS. Everything in this vehicle uses the chassis earth points successfully. I’d suggest Jaybee that maybe your earth connection was poor and a another termination point nearby might have fixed it. Alternatively, if you run it back to the battery, use the chassis earth points nearby.

[Milton477]

Never connect anything directly to the neg post of the battery as the ECU(s) uses the neg as a shunt to monitor current flow.
My Tow Pro is connected to an earth stud on the body close to the battery & this has worked fine for 25k km.

Another bit of advice. Once the Tow Pro or whichever controller is mounted, learn to find it without looking so that you can find it & operate it manually in an emergency such as in the unlikely event that the van decides to overtake you[bigsmile1].

[Jaybee]

OP, This last statement I’d take with a pinch of salt. Nothing should be connected directly to the battery’s earth as it messes with the BMS. Everything in this vehicle uses the chassis earth points successfully. I’d suggest Jaybee that maybe your earth connection was poor and a another termination point nearby might have fixed it. Alternatively, if you run it back to the battery, use the chassis earth points nearby.

Thanks for the clarification. When I contacted Red Arc with the 'Limp Mode' problem they knew straight away that the problem was incorrect grounding and said that it had to be connected to the batteries ground (negative terminal). This is also outlined in their installation instructions. Perhaps there are vehicles that the specifications are different such as the D4? On inspection by the auto electrician that fixed the problem, it was found that the earth was connected under the dash (by LR dealer who subsequently paid for my auto electric bill) with a light weight wire. So using a heavier weight wire it was connected to the battery ground and it's worked perfectly ever since ( 2 years towing around Australia). Has it affected my Battery Management System, I think maybe not as the battery lasted 5 complete years before needing replacement.

[dsjy]

Hi.

I just bought my first caravan (jayco sterling outback pop top) and have been told it has electric brakes and needs a 12 pin plug.

1) I know the D4's have the plugs but the salesperson asked me to check if I need a brake controller? if so, how much and where should I get this in Sydney?
2) Do our plugs have two 'hot plugs' which apparently is for the fridge etc

also, I live on a steepish street, can you park a van safely on a hill?

any other tips are appreciated as well.

Thanks!

Hi Lukeis,
We have towed caravans/ horse floats etc with several different discos over many years. Have just returned from a 24k trip to the kimberley and places up north towing a 22’ Coromal van behind our D4. They are a great tow platform.
If your van has electric brakes fitted then i think you are required to have them connected. For my money via a Tekonsha prodigy 3 brake controller. It is the best i have used and i also hav one on my defender.
The electric brakes(if adjusted correctly) are like a safety parachute out the back. When operating correctly you should barely notice the van on the back.
As far as the trailer connector goes i have a 12 pin (which will also double as a 7 pin flat connector). The LR supplied connectors supplied are a pain and i dont think std in aust anyway. Our permanently fitted 12 pin does everything with no fuss.
Best of luck. Cheers

[BrianLJ]

There are two D4 issues not covered so far for towing caravans.
First is the auto gearbox which should have the tray replaced with a metal one with changeable filter. Oil and filter need to be changed every 52,000km. At 115,000km (without the replacement) my oil was putrid and the filter was not collecting all contaminants. I am told I just got it done in time.
Second the caravan should not be used with levelling bars as this is dangerous with the air suspension. The air suspension tries to keep the body at the same height from the road, and so if a wheel drops into a road depression the body will also drop, but the levelling bars try to keep the body in the same line as the caravan. This causes a lower pressure on the road for that wheel. This is a problem if this occurs while braking or cornering, especially if it occurs on both rear wheels at the same time.
If you want circuit diagrams for the wiring harness and if you have LED lamps on the trailer I am happy to provide the solution for these.
I use the Tekonsha P3 and have found it works extremely smoothly and well.

[gavinwibrow]

There are two D4 issues not covered so far for towing caravans.
First is the auto gearbox which should have the tray replaced with a metal one with changeable filter. Oil and filter need to be changed every 52,000km. At 115,000km (without the replacement) my oil was putrid and the filter was not collecting all contaminants. I am told I just got it done in time.


Another item which does not appear to have been addressed is the option of an additional or enhanced transmission oil cooler (and ideally a temp gauge). Is this of no advantage in the D4?

[DiscoJeffster]

Thanks for the clarification. When I contacted Red Arc with the 'Limp Mode' problem they knew straight away that the problem was incorrect grounding and said that it had to be connected to the batteries ground (negative terminal). This is also outlined in their installation instructions. Perhaps there are vehicles that the specifications are different such as the D4? On inspection by the auto electrician that fixed the problem, it was found that the earth was connected under the dash (by LR dealer who subsequently paid for my auto electric bill) with a light weight wire. So using a heavier weight wire it was connected to the battery ground and it's worked perfectly ever since ( 2 years towing around Australia). Has it affected my Battery Management System, I think maybe not as the battery lasted 5 complete years before needing replacement.

As per Milton’s point above, the BMS uses a shunt to know the current draw and manage the alternator. If you connect things to the battery directly then current is being consumed that it doesn’t know about and cannot compensate for. Your problem was a poor quality earth, not the location of the earth. [emoji106]

[Lukeis]

Thanks all.

I picked up van today, drove home like a dream and thanks to the redarc towpro stopped smoothly each time.

However, some issues which I have to work on now
1) the anti sway control did not activate - Searching for this answer now
2) the cars reverse sensors didn’t shut up (lights/indicators worked fine)
3) the van has a reverse camera - this is a job for another day as I’m fairly handy wiht reversing.
4) car wasn’t charging the van

oh and van has stuck on the Hill ok so far, wheels well chocked.. now just waiting for the neighbours to complain!

[Pedro_The_Swift]

as long as the van is registered,, tell'em to go jump.... [thumbsupbig]


more importantly,, why or how did you know the anti-sway didnt. ?

[Lukeis]

ah.. this is because I'm told the van's stability control box on the a frame will glow green when powered up. it didn't.

[Mike57]

Check the Jayco web site for the specification for the wiring of their 12 PIN connectors. I recall they did a few things differently. I have not read this entire thread but did you rewire in a new 12 pin connector on the car. Suggest you check there first. There is power to one of the rear plugs on the D4 which can be used to power the sway control unit but it is not adequate to charge the batteries in the van. That will need a bigger cable run to the rear of the car. If the van charging system was wired to this same power supply you may have blown a fuse. BTW I don't actually have a van but set up the wiring when we were thinking about hiring one.

[DiscoJeffster]

If your reverse sensors are active it means you have LED lights and will need to provide load resistors either on the trailer or in the vehicle. In the vehicle on a switch allows you to enable it for multiple trailers. I just fitted them to my camper.

LED Load Resistor - Products - Narva (http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/led-load-resistor-2)

There’s oodles of info on this in the sticky.

[Chops]

There are two D4 issues not covered so far for towing caravans.
First is the auto gearbox which should have the tray replaced with a metal one with changeable filter. Oil and filter need to be changed every 52,000km. At 115,000km (without the replacement) my oil was putrid and the filter was not collecting all contaminants. I am told I just got it done in time.
Second the caravan should not be used with leveling bars as this is dangerous with the air suspension. The air suspension tries to keep the body at the same height from the road, and so if a wheel drops into a road depression the body will also drop, but the leveling bars try to keep the body in the same line as the caravan. This causes a lower pressure on the road for that wheel. This is a problem if this occurs while braking or cornering, especially if it occurs on both rear wheels at the same time.
If you want circuit diagrams for the wiring harness and if you have LED lamps on the trailer I am happy to provide the solution for these.
I use the Tekonsha P3 and have found it works extremely smoothly and well.


This is what I have been told too,, essentially by LR.

However, I was shocked when told by a major van parts/accessories dealer, that this is not the case. Reckons he's fitted heap of these to D4's. Strangely, can't say I've ever noticed a D4 towing with leveling bars on it,,, doesn't mean they're not out there though.
He insisted when I was in sourcing a new tow tongue for the car that I NEEDED this unit. I didn't worry about arguing with him,, just said I'd think about it and get back to him later.

My concern now is, if someone fairly new to towing and D3/4's and probably now the "D5",, he's putting them in jeopardy of becoming very unstuck in a bad situation. I've debated going over to the dealer and seeing what exactly they have to say about it, and if they will set them right.

[Lukeis]

If your reverse sensors are active it means you have LED lights and will need to provide load resistors either on the trailer or in the vehicle. In the vehicle on a switch allows you to enable it for multiple trailers. I just fitted them to my camper.

LED Load Resistor - Products - Narva (http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/led-load-resistor-2)

There’s oodles of info on this in the sticky.

Yep I bought those a week ago, where on the van did you install them? It says they need to be mounted to metal in order to avoid heating and melting plastic

[Redback]

There are two D4 issues not covered so far for towing caravans.
First is the auto gearbox which should have the tray replaced with a metal one with changeable filter. Oil and filter need to be changed every 52,000km. At 115,000km (without the replacement) my oil was putrid and the filter was not collecting all contaminants. I am told I just got it done in time.
Second the caravan should not be used with levelling bars as this is dangerous with the air suspension. The air suspension tries to keep the body at the same height from the road, and so if a wheel drops into a road depression the body will also drop, but the levelling bars try to keep the body in the same line as the caravan. This causes a lower pressure on the road for that wheel. This is a problem if this occurs while braking or cornering, especially if it occurs on both rear wheels at the same time.
If you want circuit diagrams for the wiring harness and if you have LED lamps on the trailer I am happy to provide the solution for these.
I use the Tekonsha P3 and have found it works extremely smoothly and well.


This is what I have been told too,, essentially by LR.

However, I was shocked when told by a major van parts/accessories dealer, that this is not the case. Reckons he's fitted heap of these to D4's. Strangely, can't say I've ever noticed a D4 towing with leveling bars on it,,, doesn't mean they're not out there though.
He insisted when I was in sourcing a new tow tongue for the car that I NEEDED this unit. I didn't worry about arguing with him,, just said I'd think about it and get back to him later.

My concern now is, if someone fairly new to towing and D3/4's and probably now the "D5",, he's putting them in jeopardy of becoming very unstuck in a bad situation. I've debated going over to the dealer and seeing what exactly they have to say about it, and if they will set them right.

The caravan's electronic anti sway control is different to levelling bars, and is OK in conjunction with LRs stability control and Trailer Assist.

Levelling bar are not good and it's not so much the air suspension it's the stability control and trailer assist on the D4 that is the issue with levelling bars or Weight Distribution Hitches.

Baz.

[Graeme]

The D4's suspension will never try to adjust height when a wheel drops into a depression as there is a programmed 5 second delay to allow averaging of height before any adjustments are considered.

The issue with levelling bars for on-road use is that if incorrectly set too high will cause the air volume in the rear airsprings to be inappropriately low as the suspension tries to lower to level the rear which will upset the ride and handling. Properly set bars will slightly increase road pressure on the front wheels for improved steering when the van's draw-bar weight is high and can take some of the bounce out of the rear for a more comfortable ride. Levelling bars are inappropriate for off-road use, regardless of whether the tow vehicle has air suspension or not.

[Lukeis]

It turns out pin 4 on the white plug is the only one with the live feed needed for the fridge in the van, this is also needed for the stability control so I’ve not wired pin 4 (car side) to
Pin 9 and 2 of the 12 plug.

i can see the stability control works now so that’s a win but have no idea if the fridge is working because there is no light in it and they are so slow to start up - any ideas how I can confirm this?

also. i installed the narva load resister to the left indicator wire at the A frame of the caravan (to be bolted to the metal at a near time in the future), started the car and put it in reverse but still the reverse sensors came on, assuming this means the car still doesn’t know there’s a trailer attached?? What did I do wrong?

[DiscoMick]

Some useful backing tips here:
Reversing a caravan: The fundamentals | Without A Hitch (http://www.withoutahitch.com.au/caravan/reversing-a-caravan-the-fundamentals/)

[DiscoJeffster]

also. i installed the narva load resister to the left indicator wire at the A frame of the caravan (to be bolted to the metal at a near time in the future), started the car and put it in reverse but still the reverse sensors came on, assuming this means the car still doesn’t know there’s a trailer attached?? What did I do wrong?

Did the left indicator of the van work when you tested it? Did you wire it in parallel to the indicator?

[Lukeis]

Yep the indicator worked fine before I connected the resister, when set up parallel and when used as the only connection (ie wire through the resister only)

Any clues?

[disco4now]

So are you saying one end of the resistor is attached to the wire and the other end of the resistor is attached to earth? This is how it should be.

[Geedublya]

If it is wired correctly the trailer light on the dash will flash when the indicator is operated

[scarry]

My load resisters are wired from the brake light circuits to earth,all seems to work fine.
There is one load resister on each brake light.

[DiscoJeffster]

My load resisters are wired from the brake light circuits to earth,all seems to work fine.
There is one load resister on each brake light.

Very weird. All the text says you put them into the indicators however if you’re correct, then you’ve proven it just needs to see a load on one of the trailer light circuits.

[67hardtop]

I'm no electrician but yes if it's over 750kg you'll need a brake controller by law. As to parking on a hill I'd suggest you use chocks as well because the handbrake shouldn't trusted.
AlanH.
Like this??

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/633.jpg

Cheers Rod

[Geedublya]

To check the fridge a clamp multimeter would be best. As it draws 15A when operating.

[Piddler]

Like this??

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/633.jpg

Cheers Rod

That is SCARY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Hugh Jars]

All that just to get it level enough to run the 3-way fridge :D

[Lukeis]

Does the fridge have to be level to run??

[Geedublya]

Does the fridge have to be level to run??
Yes, level when stationary.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Does the fridge have to be level to run??
only on LPG,,( buy a small level[wink11])

but it has to be stationary to run on LPG anyway,,,

I admit to being totally biased,, ( 95L front opening Engal in Van) but 3 way fridges are, um, difficult. The reason I now have said Engal.

[Hugh Jars]

Yep, 3-ways really are dinosaurs. I would never own a caravan or camper with one, now I’ve experienced compressor fridges. So much better in every way :)

[Geedublya]

only on LPG,,( buy a small level[wink11])

but it has to be stationary to run on LPG anyway,,,

I admit to being totally biased,, ( 95L front opening Engal in Van) but 3 way fridges are, um, difficult. The reason I now have said Engal.

Actually it needs to be level for 240v AC and 12v DC as well due to the way the absorption fridges work (http://www.everythingcaravans.com.au/how-a-3-way-caravan-fridge-works/).

[scarry]

Yep, 3-ways really are dinosaurs. I would never own a caravan or camper with one, now I’ve experienced compressor fridges. So much better in every way :)

With the efficiency and availability of solar panels,and the increased efficiency of compresser fridges,they are really a no brainer for most people these days.

[scarry]

All that just to get it level enough to run the 3-way fridge :D

nah,its so you can throw the swag in the shade underneath and have a midday kip[bigsmile]

[Hugh Jars]

With the efficiency and availability of solar panels,and the increased efficiency of compresser fridges,they are really a no brainer for most people these days.

Yeah, the problem Scarry is that some manufacturers still offer the dinosaur as standard fare in their vans, with no other option.......

My AOR has an 82L Evakool fridge/freezer which is brilliant. Keeps ice cream solid, just like at home :)

The CF-50 is either our drinks fridge or deep freezer on longer trips. Has never missed a beat.

[scarry]

Yeah, the problem Scarry is that some manufacturers still offer the dinosaur as standard fare in their vans, with no other option.......

My AOR has an 82L Evakool fridge/freezer which is brilliant. Keeps ice cream solid, just like at home :)

The CF-50 is either our drinks fridge or deep freezer on longer trips. Has never missed a beat.

Not trying to be smart here,but we have had a look at a lot of off road vans in the last 6 months,with the intention of eventually purchasing one.Most have changed over to compresser refrigerators as standard.

The van we have hired on occasions has the 3 way which did work well,at times actually froze the contents of the fridge.

[ATH]

That is madness having the van like that on the driveway. But it looks like it's being lived in so it's not just chocked up for the fridge to work. Try sleeping with the van facing down hill without it being like that though.[bigsmile1]
On the other hand any frenzied bed activity inside could well send the van on a rough ride down the drive.
Not for me.
AlanH.