Replacement D3 battery terminals

[Ooops]

Hi all

I'm looking for ideas for replacement battery terminal clamps for my D3
They could both do with being changed but the negative in particular needs sorting

I'd prefer not to replace them with the same thing so I'm looking for suggestions on alternative types and ideas on how to fit them.

The photos, borrowed from a Traxide post, show what's fitted currently fitted.

Thanks

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[Tombie]

May I ask why you want to do so?

[drivesafe]

Hi AG, and as Tombie asked?

The Positive ( + ) has a fuse built into it and you would need to install a new fuse setup.

The Negative ( - ) lead is used to monitor the cranking battery’s current flow, for the BMS.

You will need to do a lot of modifying to maintain the same type of setup

[Ooops]

May I ask why you want to do so?

Hi Tombie
The fittings have stretched, in particular the negative, presumably from over tightening, as a result it can't be sufficiently tightened.
At the very least I need to replace the negative clamp however I'd prefer not use the same style of clamp.
So I'm looking for a way to modify what i have or replace it.

I'm hoping its some thing that's been done by one or more of the members

[Ooops]

Hi Tim,



The Positive ( + ) has a fuse built into it and you would need to install a new fuse setup.

The Negative ( - ) lead is used to monitor the cranking battery’s current flow, for the BMS.


I was hoping there would be a way chop off the existing clamp portions on both leads and join the remainder into a new clamps, there by retaining the fuse and the negative lead.

I've no idea if it can or should be done hence the question

[Ooops]

Have I asked a really stupid question and every one's too polite to tell me? [bigwhistle]

[DiscoJeffster]

Have I asked a really stupid question and every one's too polite to tell me? [bigwhistle]

I believe you’ve asked a question with no easy answer as no one (edit: not many?) has had the issue? Did you do a forum search? As mentioned by Tim, the terminals on the discovery aren’t simple as there’s the battery monitor and fuse built in. Attempting to hack them to retain this won’t be easy. The simplest approach if you need to fix it would be replacement genuine leads including terminals. Failing that, take it to an auto sparky and seek advice?

[ytt105]

I can assure you that as the car ages these problems DO exist.

My negative terminal has always been a bit 'iffy' The last time I had it off I spent best part of 1/2hr cleaning, opening up, tapping down the bugger to get it back on tight.

I dare not touch it now.

So I've contemplated the best way to 're-do' the connection.

May need it one day in the never ever.

My 'idea', if stranded, would be to cut the bolt section off and fashion an oval stub from the resulting square section, then clamp that down on one of those clamp style battery terminals.


Regards
Trev
2005 TDV6

[Ooops]

Hi DiscoJeffster and ytt105, thanks for getting back to me



I can assure you that as the car ages these problems DO exist.
Thanks for that, I was beginning to think that it was just me



My negative terminal has always been a bit 'iffy' The last time I had it off I spent best part of 1/2hr cleaning, opening up, tapping down the bugger to get it back on tight. I dare not touch it now.
That’s exactly where I am now. I’m about to replace the alternator, the only way I can get the negative (-) clamp tight is by packing the inside of it with a sliver of soda can. Its pants



The simplest approach if you need to fix it would be replacement genuine leads including terminals.
IMHO the original clamp is less robust than other designs, if at all possible I’d prefer to use some thing else. In contrast to the original, the clamp that Tim supplied with his DB kit is bullet proof and similar to the one shown.
133777



Failing that, take it to an auto sparky and seek advice?
I’m in the back end of nowhere, in a third world country, no such animal exists. The main stealer is a six hour round trip away and hopeless for this sort of thing



I've contemplated the best way to 're-do' the connection ......
My 'idea', if stranded, would be to cut the bolt section off and fashion an oval stub from the resulting square section, then clamp that down on one of those clamp style battery terminals.
Thank you Trev that’s exactly the sort of thing that I was looking for. Would you mind explaining your idea in a bit more detail?

For both sides I was thinking about cutting off the failed clamp and bolting the remaining bar into it a more traditional clamp.
133778133779133780

I’m a bit worried about the bar portion of the original ending up being a little too short

I’m also unsure how the BMS works and whether changing the length of the solid metal work, or adding a different material, particularly on the negative will alter its function


Did you do a forum search?
I did an extensive search before asking.


As mentioned by Tim, the terminals on the discovery aren’t simple as there’s the battery monitor and fuse built in. Attempting to hack them to retain this won’t be easy.
Both points are understood. I'm not seeking to remove or replace either.
I'm merely looking for a way to replace the clamp portion.

I was asking if any one had successfully accomplished this. With the wealth of talent on here I felt it likely that some one had found a good solution. I’m not talented in this direction nor very innovative which is why I asked.

[DiscoJeffster]

I see no reason, height aside, why you couldn’t cut off that terminal, drill through the remainder and use a clamp like in those pictures. It will raise the height of it all so that’s the main consideration. In that last pic, drill a hole in the solid bit, cut off the old terminal, bolt down. Winner. Well maybe [emoji3]

[ytt105]

How about something like this

BATTERY TERMINAL HEAVY DUTY - 2PC RED & BLACK MARINE TYPE LEAD BATTERY CLAMPS | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BATTERY-TERMINAL-HEAVY-DUTY-2PC-RED-BLACK-MARINE-TYPE-LEAD-BATTERY-CLAMPS/352134763373?hash=item51fcde136d:g:5dcAAOSwqVxZiA4 U)

Modify the square shaft to fit.

Regards
Trev

[Ooops]

I see no reason, ..... why you couldn’t ........ Winner. Well maybe [emoji3]
I concur, that's a definite maybe:Rolling:


How about something like this
BATTERY TERMINAL HEAVY DUTY - 2PC RED & BLACK MARINE TYPE LEAD BATTERY CLAMPS | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BATTERY-TERMINAL-HEAVY-DUTY-2PC-RED-BLACK-MARINE-TYPE-LEAD-BATTERY-CLAMPS/352134763373?hash=item51fcde136d:g:5dcAAOSwqVxZiA4 U)
Modify the square shaft to fit.


That would be a neat solution. The only down side would be if pushing the shaft inside far enough to make it secure significantly reduces the overall length. If its too short it won't reach the terminal. I'll have a dig through my spares box to see if I have one to measure.

Trev how does this compare with your original idea?

What I need now is for a grown up to tell me whether or not reducing or adding to the material in the bar will effect the BMS

[SeanC]

I have the same issue with my 2008 D3. No matter how tight the terminal clamps are you can still twist them on the terminals.

There is enough length in the negative lead to cut and crimp on a new clamp but not the positive lead.

Tapping the terminal with a hammer helps a little but is not a permanent fix.

I didn't realise the leads had other functions than current flow. You learn something new every day.

[DiscoJeffster]

My opinion is the battery monitoring will be unaffected by the alteration. Tim from Traxide will be by to confirm or berate me lol. If you can maintain a good enough connection between the new terminal and the old section to start the car, it will be good enough for the BMS.

[LRD414]

You may well be correct that the factory design is not the best available but hasn’t it lasted 9 or 10 years on yours? Surely that’s infrequent enough to just replace and go again for another 9-10 years without any of the difficulty of whatever modification could be undertaken?

Scott

[DiscoJeffster]

You may well be correct that the factory design is not the best available but hasn’t it lasted 9 or 10 years on yours? Surely that’s infrequent enough to just replace and go again for another 9-10 years without any of the difficulty of whatever modification could be undertaken?

Scott

They’re probably stupidly expensive though compared to a DIY repair. I’ll look tonight for a price.

[Ooops]

You may well be correct that the factory design is not the best available but hasn’t it lasted 9 or 10 years on yours? Surely that’s infrequent enough to just replace and go again for another 9-10 years without any of the difficulty of whatever modification could be undertaken?

Scott
Scott you're quite right, they've lasted a while. However my experience of them hasn't been good.
A variant were fitted to the D2 and were just as much of pain there. Without doubt most of its down to hamfistedness on my part and that of the PO but what ever the cause they've never been great.

That said I've done a lot of work on the car since I've had it and I've had the traxide fitted pretty much from the start. The terminals have been on and off more times than a naughty girls drawers. The LR clamps are suffering and the standard traxide clamps are as good as new, which speaks volumes. Its less of a cost issue and far more to do with not replacing a failed part with another part of the same design. The idea just goes against the grain, if that makes sense.

[Tombie]

Replace the battery if it’s a few years old with a new one... [emoji41]
One with slightly larger terminals [emoji12]