Dash Fully Removed - Couple of Questions?

[Mark130]

Hello All,
I've been side tracked again sound proofing my 2002 TD5 130.

After noticing some dags - both sides as per photo - I started thinking I might have some series firewall rust coming from inside. Up until then I'd only found rusty bolts and washers in footwells.


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My air-con hadn't been used much in the past ten years so I figured that'd need a service anyway.
So air con came out and the lower section of dash removed

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That proved well worth the effort as I had a couple of nasty rusty spots - above bonnet latch on drivers side and two such areas on passengers side. LR had sealed a lot of seams up in the foot wells, but not the obvious ones for protecting against water coming down from the failing air vent seals.
Easily fixed now, and I'll seal all seams.
I pulled the door latch mechs off. All good behind them, so I was pretty happy that was the only damage.

Q1. It's not very clear on that first photo. I scratched some paint off so it shows as a brown spot about 15mm to left of door hinge; and the dag runs down to fender.
Does everyone else have it (both sides) It looks like a weld but I wasn't expecting a weld?

Q2. Is penetrol the best option to spray inside bolt holes to try to protect double skinned part of firewall?
I've got quite a few holes, but haven't thought of a way to get a mist in there? Has anyone come up with anything?
I've seen a good suggestion using garden retic for misting inside a chassis, but 6mm max hole available here - mostly smaller.

This leads me to the heater. Only time I remember it's been used is when coolant has been replaced.
Inside this nasty looking hole
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there is a flap that had a foam seal that was in terrible shape. I've vacuumed it out and cleaned it the best I could.
I imagine I can glue on a thin rubber seal from inside the car - without having to take the heater box out from engine bay
Q3 I can't find how that flap gets controlled. It's in the down position now?
Q4. Has anyone replaced theirs. Until I can see it closed I'd be guessing how to fit new seal.

There are two controls on RHS of dash.
One of them controls flaps in lower section of dash - which I could see switches airflow between air to windscreen and air into aircon unit.
Q5. Am I right in saying that's only switching air through the air con fresh air vents, and has nothing to do with air intake to air con unit. Does A/C just take air from passengers side footwell?

The other control goes into engine bay heater unit, and I assume switches on heating process.

Back to soundproofing. I think I will remove the factory soundproofing at top of bulkhead. It's held in by a few rivets and generally is looking tired and has a bit of dirt behind it. I have a few car builders stage 1 and 2 options. I just need to ensure I maintain same thickness as original so dash goes back on properly. Anyone pondered this already?

Thankyou

Cheers
Mark

[Dervish]

Hello All,

Q1. It's not very clear on that first photo. I scratched some paint off so it shows as a brown spot about 15mm to left of door hinge; and the dag runs down to fender.
Does everyone else have it (both sides) It looks like a weld but I wasn't expecting a weld?

Yes, everyone has them.

Q2. Is penetrol the best option to spray inside bolt holes to try to protect double skinned part of firewall?
I've got quite a few holes, but haven't thought of a way to get a mist in there? Has anyone come up with anything?
I've seen a good suggestion using garden retic for misting inside a chassis, but 6mm max hole available here - mostly smaller.

Penetrol is probably as good as anything short of galvanising the bulkhead.

This leads me to the heater. Only time I remember it's been used is when coolant has been replaced.
Inside this nasty looking hole
...
there is a flap that had a foam seal that was in terrible shape. I've vacuumed it out and cleaned it the best I could.
I imagine I can glue on a thin rubber seal from inside the car - without having to take the heater box out from engine bay
Q3 I can't find how that flap gets controlled. It's in the down position now?

It's controlled by the lever on the LHS of the dash, that flap being open means the lever should be at least half way down. If it's all the way up, you have to adjust the cable.

Q4. Has anyone replaced theirs. Until I can see it closed I'd be guessing how to fit new seal.

You could replace it through the hole but with everything removed like that it's only 4 bolts to release the heater; then you can get a better look at it (not removing it entirely, just a foot or so off the bulkhead).

There are two controls on RHS of dash.
One of them controls flaps in lower section of dash - which I could see switches airflow between air to windscreen and air into aircon unit.

It's actually air to top of dash or to footwell outlets.

Q5. Am I right in saying that's only switching air through the air con fresh air vents, and has nothing to do with air intake to air con unit. Does A/C just take air from passengers side footwell?

Yes.

The other control goes into engine bay heater unit, and I assume switches on heating process.


.

[Mark130]

Thanks Dervish, Pretty sad it took me 15 years to notice those welds .

You could replace it through the hole but with everything removed like that it's only 4 bolts to release the heater; then you can get a better look at it (not removing it entirely, just a foot or so off the bulkhead).

OK I will do that. It looks like it needs a bit of love. I assumed I'd need to disconnect water to do anything.



Also I may as well take the lid of the heater duct - inside
lower dash. I'll have a look before I ask any more questions.


[B]

[Mark130]

Hello All,
I've been back looking at the heater vent flap again.
I can clearly see how it works now, and when the left hand heater handle is in the off position (fully up) the flap is still about 30mm open (at the top).
Looking to adjust, but as it is now I only have 5mm of spare wire protruding out the end (engine bay) and end at dash is made off, so I can't see how I'll get any adjustment. (Actually I better have another look at that. Maybe had it back the front and need to pull wire not feed in more)

I removed the 4 bolts and tried to move the heater around to a better position to see. I got a bit of movement but not enough to really have a good look at it.

I half heartedly tried to remove the air box for another reason, then had the thought if I could remove it, it might allow me more rotation with the heater.

That wasn't as easy as it looked. I removed the two nuts to the metal frame, disconnected hoses and top of box etc, but there's something still stopping it from moving, and I can't for the life of me see what it is.

I thought I would persist with this, because it's got me curious, and because that opens up a good bit of firewall that I can reseal the seams and whack on some sound proofing, and hopefully help with the heater access.

Any tips would be appreciated.
Cheers Mark

[Ranga]

Where did you get that flash bonnet release?

[Mark130]

Where did you get that flash bonnet release?

They were all the rage in 2002. Cutting edge technology