Rear Lights (again)

[JDNSW]

I got a pink slip for the 2a a couple of weeks ago. The mechnic issued this on the agreement that I fixed an issue with the RH rear light - the stoplight didn't work when the parking lights were on.

This is clearly an issue with earthing of the socket - when the brake light is not on, the tail light bulb earths through the stop filament to the other side and through its stop filament to earth. When the tail light is not on, the stop light similarly earths through the tail light (and parking light) filaments, and works, albeit a bit dimly. But when both are on - no light from either filament.

The only question, of course, is where is the fault? Disconnecting the earth point on the chassis revealed no continuity between the end of the wire and the socket, so I disconnected all joints. Turned out to be the bullet connection at the actual socket. Just cleaned it up, crimped the tube a bit with pliers, and put everything back together - by this time I had the shield removed inside the tub, and the actual socket hanging out the hole.

Having everything back together, the RH light was now much brighter than the LH, so I had to pull that lens off and washe the diust out of it, and wipe the bulb clean.

John

[anonanist]

Hi John

I have a similar problem - my brake lights and tail lights work independently, but when the lights are on and I press the brake instead of brightening, I get no light! From your helpful post I understand it must be an issue with the earthing. I'm sorry to ask such a basic question, but where are the earth points that I should be checking located? Thank you!

[JDNSW]

The earth point at the rear of Series 2/2a is (this is from memory) a tag bolted to the RH chassis outrigger behind the rear wheel. But be aware that the wiring is very likely to have been changed over the years.

The most productive approach is to follow the actual wiring from the point where the harness comes out of the RH chassis rail, identifying each wire using the colour (but again being aware it may have been changed!) and using a voltmeter or test light. Find every connection - and suspect a fault with every one!

[Tins]

Find every connection - and suspect a fault with every one!

Every bullet connector should be pulled apart and cleaned, and sprayed with something lasting like maybe Lanox or better.* WD won't last. Expect every one to fight and possibly break as they corrode and the wires harden. I find a little warming with a hot air gun can sometimes help, but don't count on it. If warmed though you can usually slip the insulator (!) down the wire and then with care spread the connector a little if it's really stuck. They probably haven't been apart in over 50 years, or, as John says, they'll have been changed.

it's called fun for some reason. But it is satisfying, and you will learn about your particular car.

*EDIT: Something like Vaseline can be rubbed on once it's put back together to keep water out, but sparingly as the stuff attracts dust etc.

[anonanist]

Thank you so much for your help guys!