View Full Version : Help urgently need replacement headlight switch
dazzler
29th December 2017, 10:19 PM
Folks my trip is in jeopardy unless I can find a replacement switch asap any help will be greatly appreciated. I am in Sydney
roverrescue
30th December 2017, 05:53 AM
On a work trip to Pormpuraaw a few years ago my light switch burnt out
With a bit of poke-jiggery I was able to set it up so low beams and Parks were permanent on
Then spotty switch and relay rejigged so I could just flick them on and off as needed
It was dark I needed to drive a few hours - it worked
Not ideal but????
Steve
uninformed
30th December 2017, 11:01 AM
hella make a little switch that is the same function and fit in with ease to my 98 110. $47 if i remember back to the early 2000s. Maybe this helps
martnH
30th December 2017, 01:13 PM
Why don't you hot wire tlthe low beam....
Just saying.
There is no relay just hot wire them at the switch
JDNSW
31st December 2017, 05:53 AM
The switch may be repairable - what happens is because there is no relay, the current will cause the copper contacts to heat up, especially if the bulbs are higher than standard wattage. If you are lucky, the contacts are slightly burnt, and a very light file with wet and dry will get it working - you don't even have to pull it apart, as the works are open. If you are unlucky, the heat has softened the plastic body, and the contacts have moved and no longer touch with enough pressure.
The issue may also be with the switch on the indicator stalk. Same comments apply, but here just bypassing and leaving low beam only is a temporary workaround.
dazzler
31st December 2017, 07:57 AM
False alarm!!
Driving circuit for the Traxide kit had a blown fuse, taking both sides out :) my bad!!
Thanks for your input.
LouNat58
31st December 2017, 08:00 AM
False alarm!!
Driving circuit for the Traxide kit had a blown fuse, taking both sides out :) my bad!!
Thanks for your input.Are you removing your Traxide kit?
hpal
31st December 2017, 10:56 AM
The switch may be repairable - what happens is because there is no relay, the current will cause the copper contacts to heat up, especially if the bulbs are higher than standard wattage. If you are lucky, the contacts are slightly burnt, and a very light file with wet and dry will get it working - you don't even have to pull it apart, as the works are open. If you are unlucky, the heat has softened the plastic body, and the contacts have moved and no longer touch with enough pressure.
The issue may also be with the switch on the indicator stalk. Same comments apply, but here just bypassing and leaving low beam only is a temporary workaround.
I actually repaired mine last time. The contacts had sunk into the plastic, I pulled the switch apart and dobbed some solder with plenty of fluc onto the contact to replace the round domed contact, worked a treat and then I installed a relay kit so probably wont ever have to replace the repaired switch.
JDNSW
1st January 2018, 06:52 AM
Solder does not make a very good contact material, but with not much current you will probably get away with it for a while. Would have been better, but a lot harder, to solder a bit of copper on top of the original contact.
dazzler
9th January 2018, 07:46 AM
Are you removing your Traxide kit?
Hi,
No it is staying, had a blown fuse. On another note I have two lucas headlight switches from UK :D, I will pull the oem out and check/replace as needed. I will have a spare at cost if one is interested.
Many Thanks
pd
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