EAS Stumped!!

[FANTOM P38]

Hi guys after a long period of no issues with eas it started losing air slowly & pump was running longer than it should so I decided it was time for some rebuilds. So I started by complete compressor rebuild which appears to be working perfect now.
However i did rebuild on valveblock and only real issues found were leaky o rings to airbag which was losing air and diagphram was cracked so I replaced it with orange one from hard range kit which is different from original (more like thick washer) put it all back together & start it off with some manual air from workshop compressor so as not to overheat new pump on startup with empty airbags & tank. went for short drive and selected different heights -ok then went to lower and it lowered driv side only, got home and let air out -re inflated and tried again, same problem so out came valve block for quick once over in case piched solenoid o ring - nothing obvious. After some more fiddling pulling valve block in out checking NRV's / diagphram etc back in and still no luck. I have a spare car so I thought try swap out ecu just to see if that helps but no luck there.
I then took out the exhaust silencer and noticed that it was releasing air then pump would run for few seconds and it would open again so dont know what would be causing this cycle can anyone assist?
was wondering whether there may be faulty height sensor - what would be best way to isolate problem?

[DieselLSE]

The symptoms you mention do point to a faulty sensor. You really need to have access to an EAS diagnostic tool. This would allow you to see what the sensors are doing. It would also allow you to re-set the system. I have an EAS Kicker from BBS which you are welcome to come over and use if you like.
The continuing settling you refer to is a symptom of one or more sensors not being read properly due to internal wear. What happens is that the voltage readings jump to a different value, so the computer lowers the other corners to match, that sets off an unexpected reading in either the same or another sensor and the cycle is repeated. In extreme cases the car will shuffle itself down to the bump stops!
If the system is working correctly, after you switch off and leave the vehicle, you will hear a few clicks and farts as the car finds its level. But even on uneven ground this should only last a few seconds.
I've mentioned this before somewhere on this forum, but when I was working on my LSE in 2010 in a central Victorian Landrover workshop, they learnt to reset the EAS on P38s as a matter of course during servicing. Sometimes this would be because they noticed the car wasn't sitting as it should or perhaps the customer mentioned that it wasn't riding too well. Often, a simple reset would be all that was needed and the customer was amazed that the car was now riding like new. Apart from genuine errors that needed attention and replacing shocks (every 100,000km from memory) a simple reset every service was good preventative medicine.

[Keithy P38]

Did the valve block that you put in have a driver unit attached already or did you swap it from the valve block you removed?

My money says the driver unit on the rebuilt valve block is cactus. That’s my first port of call when things start playing up. Every time.

Cheers
Keithy

[TheTree]

Apart from genuine errors that needed attention and replacing shocks (every 100,000km from memory) a simple reset every service was good preventative medicine.

Hi

Can you do this reset with a nanocom?

Steve

[DieselLSE]

Hi

Can you do this reset with a nanocom?

Steve
I don't know, but I would assume so as they make the BBS EASkicker that I use.