Andy730
4th January 2018, 08:11 PM
Hello to the group, and thanks for checking out my post.
I have a 2007 2.4 Puma defender 90, with 35k miles on it.
In 2016 my defender first showed a starting problem where it wouldn’t start, in brief the engine would try to start but quickly cut out, this turned out to be an ‘odd’ issue with the cars security system. By simply using the key fob to lock, and then un-lock the car, it would then start again without problem.
Then, in November last year, the same thing happened again, but I simply couldn’t get it going, no matter what I tried.
I have since acquired a Bearmach Hawkeye in hope that it would help me find the problem. What I found was that it thought the ignition wasn’t switched on when it actually was, as such I swapped out the actual switch at the end of the key lock (and that was a pain in the ass to be sure!) but once changed the car started just fine. I took it for a short run and all was OK, I then took it for a slightly longer run and within 2 miles of starting, and whilst moving in traffic at about 35mph, the car ‘cut-out’ for what seemed like a second or two (it felt a lot longer) as the car was in gear and moving and with my eyes on the road & traffic, what I saw was my headlights went out, the rev counter dropped to zero, the speedo might have also dropped to zero. The green LED window that shows the miles also turned off. I didn’t see if the ignition/oil lights lit up.
But once the ‘fault’ cleared, the engine picked up and everything else returned to normal. As such I carried on, although I turned around and headed back home. With Christmas & New Year past and gone, I now need to get this sorted out as it is my normal daily run about.
But what to look for and where??
I’d like to be able to turn off all the passive immobiliser stuff to remove that from the equation. Is that possible with a Hawkeye??
Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated!
Andy
I have a 2007 2.4 Puma defender 90, with 35k miles on it.
In 2016 my defender first showed a starting problem where it wouldn’t start, in brief the engine would try to start but quickly cut out, this turned out to be an ‘odd’ issue with the cars security system. By simply using the key fob to lock, and then un-lock the car, it would then start again without problem.
Then, in November last year, the same thing happened again, but I simply couldn’t get it going, no matter what I tried.
I have since acquired a Bearmach Hawkeye in hope that it would help me find the problem. What I found was that it thought the ignition wasn’t switched on when it actually was, as such I swapped out the actual switch at the end of the key lock (and that was a pain in the ass to be sure!) but once changed the car started just fine. I took it for a short run and all was OK, I then took it for a slightly longer run and within 2 miles of starting, and whilst moving in traffic at about 35mph, the car ‘cut-out’ for what seemed like a second or two (it felt a lot longer) as the car was in gear and moving and with my eyes on the road & traffic, what I saw was my headlights went out, the rev counter dropped to zero, the speedo might have also dropped to zero. The green LED window that shows the miles also turned off. I didn’t see if the ignition/oil lights lit up.
But once the ‘fault’ cleared, the engine picked up and everything else returned to normal. As such I carried on, although I turned around and headed back home. With Christmas & New Year past and gone, I now need to get this sorted out as it is my normal daily run about.
But what to look for and where??
I’d like to be able to turn off all the passive immobiliser stuff to remove that from the equation. Is that possible with a Hawkeye??
Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated!
Andy