Ignition / Starting Problems on my 300Tdi 110.....?

[Robmacca]

I remembering something about this happening to D1 Disco's but not sure on the Defenders. While I was away in our Defender tdi300, twice at different times I went to turn the key with ALL ignition lights coming "ON", but the Starter didn't attempt to turn the engine over. I turned the key on/off a few times and it did eventually fire up....

Just wondering if this is a potential problem with the key barrel as I think I've read about or whether it might be something else?


thanks in advance.....

rob

[skidrov]

It could be a lot of things but yup, Defenders do have ignition switch issues. It's a $40ish or $100ish part (pattern v Lucas) and about 1 to 2 hours work to change (my experience on a MY10 car). I'd try replacing the switch before the key barrel - the switch is at the end of the barrel.

[Robmacca]

It could be a lot of things but yup, Defenders do have ignition switch issues. It's a $40ish or $100ish part (pattern v Lucas) and about 1 to 2 hours work to change (my experience on a MY10 car). I'd try replacing the switch before the key barrel - the switch is at the end of the barrel.

So, the switch and barrel are a separate unit and can be bought separately then ??

rob

[123rover50]

I have heard of this happening when people have a bunch of heavy keys on the key ring. The switch etc cant deal with the weight banging around in it.

[skidrov]

So, the switch and barrel are a separate unit and can be bought separately then ??

On my car, a MY10, yes. Not sure about your 300Tdi, TBH - I've only ever worked on my car from a Defender POV, and obviously there's an age difference between our vehicles.

So, my $AU 0.02 - I'd be:

- removing the cowl around the ignition switch to see what type it is, i.e separate switch from barrel or not, and then contacting a parts supplier (and/or hitting the various on-line outlets)
- also thinking if it could be the starter motor: how old is the starter motor, could the solenoid be on its way out? (it may not be the switch)
- is there a relay in your car's ignition circuit somewhere that likewise could be feeling its age? (again, it may not be the switch)

Hope that helps... these things can be a PITA to find. I have a thread somewhere on the fun I had with a similar issue.

[Robmacca]

If it is the Ignition Switch, and u were stuck in the middle of nowhere, what would be required to "hot-wire" it to get it started ??

With the ignition on, is it as simple as a positive to the Starter motor solenoid?

[skidrov]

Replying based on hypothesis, not experience: if all that was fried was the feed to the solenoid, then yes a positive wire to the solenoid should start it, I think, if the ignition is on. It assumes all other circuits are OK - for example, I think the 300Tdi has a fuel cut-off solenoid that has to be triggered open? So, if that is working OK, then it should either hot wire start or roll start I would guess.

When my starter died, I could roll start the car with the ignition on - again, this was a Puma 2.4, not a 300Tdi. And, I think someone else commented that they set up a hot wire like you're describing to start their Puma when their starter switch died. [Side note: the Puma starter is really buried, so I would hope the 300Tdi is easier to get to to do this.]

But, I don't think I'd go bush with a question mark over my starting circuit. Yes, you can start most stuff by devious methods, but why look for extra challenges! [bigsmile]

[SSmith]

A test light/multimeter will confirm if it is the switch or solenoid. When it will not start get somebody to hold the key in start position and test the voltage at the starter signal line

Either that or try the replacement lotto..... switches are a known to wear out, and yes they can be bought seperately.

Also check that it has not just dropped the wire from the back of the ignition, rarer but does happen.