2.7 TDV6 Alternator Issues

[101RRS]

This is for a RRS but as the issue is the same for a D3 I will put this here to get more visibility.

** Cut to the last two lines for the short version - alternator stuffed - need a new one**

Drove the car on Sunday for a total of 600km and no issues. Since then the car only used yesterday for a local trip around town.

Started this morning and after about 500m I noticed the battery light on - battery (relatively new) started the car no issues so suspected the alternator. Stopped at the shops and put the Faultmate FCR on and only code was P0625 - Generator Field Terminal - Circuit Low - General Electrical Failure - Interim circuit short to ground.

As there is a Auto Elect nearby I decided to head there for a check but when driving the battery light did not come back on so decided to head on my errands. Soon after the battery light was back on and then I started getting the cascade of failure messages of all systems. So headed back to the auto elect - 12.6v running with no apparent charge but didn't really seem to understand the RRS/D3 charging system so didn't inspire confidence so I thought I would head over to my independent.

On the way it threw up the F fault on the gearbox and I was in first at the time with about 10km to go so was a slow trip - then threw up overheading faults, suspension etc etc etc. I stopped and switched off to clear all these and put the FCR back on - all communications fault with the only real one being the alternator. Car would not restart and did after a bit.

Got to the indi and he confirmed (testing and electrical smell) that the alternator was not charging - but with revs the light went out and there was a glimmer of charge going in. He said 1 hours labour and the alternator would be about $1200 (he only used genuine parts). So I said I would have a think about it as I could change the thing myself and save a bit. He gets my work when I am not inclined to do things myself, he is very good and it up front with charging arrangements so there are no mis understandings.

I started to head back home and the battery light was on and the F fault was on and I think I was stuck in 3rd. Headed off home with a max speed of 80kph at 3000rpm. Other than the F faults no other cacading faults were coming up which was good.

What I noticed is when I pulled up at lights the charging light came on after being at idle for about 30s and then when I headed off the light went out when rves god above 2000rpm and when I got home the battery was up to 12.8v so must be charging at higher revs.

Clearly the alternator has had it - I have the battery is on charge so can use the car locally but the alternator needs changing.

Other than from LR where is the best and cheapest place to get a new alternator from? I gather there is no point trying to fix the old one.

Is there anything I specifically need to watch for in changing it out.

Thanks

Garry

[Tombie]

Fly it in...

[Geedublya]

If you can wait get one from the UK, LRDirect (https://www.lrdirect.com/LR008861-supplied-by-BEARMACH-branded-BM.html), Rimmers etc. I've been getting parts from LRDirect in 3-4 days if they have it in stock, a week if they have to get it in. If you can't wait try Karcraft, RoverLord or other independent supplier. It can be worthwhile to look on ebay as well. If you search for LR008861 you will find a variety of new and refurbished units.

If the RRS is the same as the 2.7 D3 it isn't too bad a job, removing the fan and accessing the rear of the alternator is the hardest part.

[Globetrotter]

Could try "TRSspares" in Padstow - never used them but know of them

[101RRS]

Thanks for the responses - everything on this car seems to happen late on a Friday afternoon, just before suppliers close.

As the RRS is my only daily driver and I need it, I thought I would ring around locally - as Tombie indicated my normal ideal would be to fly one in from the UK but that would mean the car would be off the road for at least a week.

Most places said they can get them in but wouldn't be until next week. I rang Ashdown-Ingram the wholesale/retail auto electrical company and they confirmed they had three in stock for $550 each. They cross referenced the LR part number that Geedublya listed against the Denso part list and so I borrowed a car an went over to get it.

When I arrived the guy went and got it down and to my disappointment it is not a Denso but a OEX Denso clone [bigsad](A Denso Style Alternator) - the guy said he did tell me it was a clone on the phone and I guess I have to take his word for that. Ashdown- Ingram are quite reputable and it does come with a 3 year, 45,000km warranty so I took it but it did leave a sour taste in my mouth.

So I have an alternator to put in tomorrow and hopefully it will last - was it Ean Austral who had a bad run of alternators - that was in the back of my mind.

When I got back home I again googled alternators and many of the supposed genuine Densos were in fact OEX with prices ranging from $500 to just under $1000. It would seem genuine Densos are around $750 in Australia from LR independents.

So other than having trouble getting the fan off and the plugs at the back of the alternator off is there anything else I need to worry about.

Cheers and thanks

Garry

[PerthDisco]

There’s a how to guide on Disco3.co.uk very helpful with pictures.

A long ratchet spanner would help for the mounting bolts or expect bloody knuckles and to only get 1/5 turn and it takes a while. I did get a socket on them when reinstalling.

A few helpful tricks shown to holding the fan in place to undo it and remember it is reverse threaded!!

A small socket end fits in the square hole in the tensioner pulley making it a cinch to release the belt.

Should take less than 2 hours for us amateurs. Good luck

[Milton477]

Good luck Garry, not quite like changing the dynastart on a Haflinger.

[101RRS]

Haven't had to do that - yet [wink11]

[matti4556]

Then keep the old alternator and refurbish it with a new rectifier pack (if that's the part that let the smoke out). I did mine and it's now a spare on my workshop shelf ( ready for the next Friday afternoon failure before a long weekend) Rectifier pack on eBay from Ireland? was $35. Search function will give links to part numbers and fitting videos on yousechoob. Solder job with a big iron. Nothing new here. Good luck. Matti

[101RRS]

Thanks - the codes are P0625 - Generator Field Terminal - Circuit Low - General Electrical Failure - Interim circuit short to ground. Is that a rectifier issue or a short in the windings? It does seem to be still generating power above 2000 RPM - the battery is maintaining 12.8v (so basically staying charged but draining at lower revs).

Cheers

Garry

[Tinman]

Hi Garry One thing to check before installing the alternator is to check how many v s are on the pulley I found out the hard way one v more on the new one too the old one. Not a hard job changing pulleys but when you have to take the alternator back out and put it back in its a punish. Cant understand how both alternators had different pulleys but same part number.
Cheers

[101RRS]

New alternator now installed and after a couple of starts all faults have gone.

Process is not as simple as the Disco3 UK site indicated - basic process was spot on but did miss a couple of little minor issues - like once the bolts are removed how to get the alternator out and the new one in - I have probably stressed the little rubber coolant hose that runs by the alternator getting it out so will be keeping a close watch for coolant leaks.

Clearly an operational alternator needs to be in the system to stop cascading faults caused by communication errors - this is despite a fully charged battery in the system = yes the engine will sort of run and the gearbox will sort of work but even when battery voltage is 12.8 v, if the alternator is not working you get more than just a battery light.

The old alternator did not have any burnt smell so windings should be Ok and probably just a rectifier failure - I might see if I can get a repair kit and see what happens.

Thanks - for all the input - much appreciated.

Garry

[Graeme]

It might just need new brushes but if the diodes haven't failed then best to replace them (the diodes) anyway.

[orville]

Ashdown Ingram sell them.

[orville]

Further to my remark. I bought a new alternator from Ashdown Ingram, just needed to swap the pulley from mine with a rattle gun. It is a D3 2.7 and has been driven around Australia without further issue. Cost was substantially less than anywhere else.

[101RRS]

The ones that Ashdown Ingram (and many other companies) sell are Denso knock-offs (OEX Brand) not Denso Brand (made in Taiwan rather than Japan) - mine came with the correct pulley.

Glad to hear yours is running OK as I had a concern the quality might not be up to what was required.

Cheers

Garry

[DRD]

I have had issues with field pickups not making continuous contact at high revs but work at lower revs it may be worth checking
Cheers
Des

[CraigE]

Hi all,
Does anyone have the part number for the rectifier kit for these? Or a reference guide as I am looking for a kit for a D4 2.7 alternator kit and seem to be hard to find.
I currently have an OEX DX588 in mine and after 18 months its starting to fail (dropping to 13.2 v for about 30 seconds at a time before returning to 13.5 / 13.7v). So as it has a 3 year waranty will be going back, but need another to fit so want to refurbish my Denso unit with a new rectifier.
Issue I have is they want you to return it to place of purchase for warranty claim. What the hell are you supposed to do while investigating.
Cheers
Craig

[josh.huber]

Hi all,
Does anyone have the part number for the rectifier kit for these? Or a reference guide as I am looking for a kit for a D4 2.7 alternator kit and seem to be hard to find.
I currently have an OEX DX588 in mine and after 18 months its starting to fail (dropping to 13.2 v for about 30 seconds at a time before returning to 13.5 / 13.7v). So as it has a 3 year waranty will be going back, but need another to fit so want to refurbish my Denso unit with a new rectifier.
Issue I have is they want you to return it to place of purchase for warranty claim. What the hell are you supposed to do while investigating.
Cheers
Craig

They are variable voltage alternators controlled by the ECM to reduce emissions, mine will sometimes go all the way to 12.7v under acceleration, then spike to 14.4v when I'm coasting down a hill. Because I've got a fridge in the back it often just stays around the 13.8 Mark these days

[CraigE]

They are variable voltage alternators controlled by the ECM to reduce emissions, mine will sometimes go all the way to 12.7v under acceleration, then spike to 14.4v when I'm coasting down a hill. Because I've got a fridge in the back it often just stays around the 13.8 Mark these days
Yeah but I think I have either a battery or alternator failing. Initial figures show neither but will do a battery load test. But volts drop to 13.2 and then charge light comes on, but goes away after about 30 seconds and back upt to 13.5/13.7 volts.
The other issue is I dont think the 2011 is classified as a smart alternator just variable charge so can mean different batteries. I have listings that state it needs and AGM stop start battery and others that say it does not.

[Graeme]

2011 definitely has a smart alternator but the battery light won't illuminate unless the alternator or the LIN wire is faulty.

Before chasing a replacement diode pack for your old alternator check that none of the insulation on the windings is a darker colour than the others indicating that the windings have been overheated, such as occurred with my L322's alternator.

[josh.huber]

There have been a few write ups about damaged control wires to the ECM.. Especially during the change out