View Full Version : Perentie Wheel Nuts
Silenceisgolden
17th January 2018, 03:19 PM
Greetings all.
My Pernetie 6x6 came with after market wheels and chrome wheel nuts. I have replaced the wheels with the ANR4583 rims and standard wheel nuts. I am only getting 6 or 7 threads of engagement - leaving them looking like this. Is this normal or okay? My 130 with standard wheels and nuts doesn't have threads showing when done up fully.
The studs protrude from the hub by 23mm. I find it hard to understand why the previous owner would have fitted shorter studs - the chrome nuts were very long.
Any advice would be gratefully received!
Cheers,
Paul
grey_ghost
17th January 2018, 04:02 PM
Hi Paul,
I will have a look on my Perentie tonight - I have a 4x4 FFR, although I wouldn't havet hought that it would be any different..
Your picture doesn't look right to me...
Cheers,
GG.
Silenceisgolden
17th January 2018, 04:05 PM
Thanks GG, that would be great. That was a front wheel - the back wheels aren't so bad, they screw up nearly to the end of the nut, only maybe one thread showing.
Cheers,
Paul
67hardtop
17th January 2018, 04:26 PM
AFAIK perentie wheel studs are longer. If u have the rims with the raised centre those studs would be too short to hold the rim on.
Cheers Rod
rar110
17th January 2018, 05:21 PM
The wolf rim really requires the longer wheel studs from uk military LRs. I fitted them to my hubs when I went to tubeless wolf rims. It’s not a difficult job.
grey_ghost
17th January 2018, 05:24 PM
My front and rear look the same - maybe 1 thread left off the nut. Here is the rear/front...135023135024
Silenceisgolden
17th January 2018, 05:56 PM
Thanks everyone for the replies, and thanks GG for the pics. It seems then that I will have to replace the studs to suit the Wolf rims. I presume that is a press job? I guess that will force me to check out the wheel bearings when I remove the hubs.... silver lining??
Cheers,
Paul
rar110
17th January 2018, 06:08 PM
I just tapped mine out with a hammer. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/611.jpg
Mick_Marsh
17th January 2018, 07:12 PM
My front and rear look the same - maybe 1 thread left off the nut. Here is the rear/front...135023135024
The nuts on the front wheels of the 6x6 look similar to the pics you have posted GG.
Bearman
17th January 2018, 07:50 PM
The Wolf rims are thicker than the standard military rims and on the 6x6 the front studs don't come right through the nuts. Mine is the same. I haven't worried about changing them out but you can get the 60mm studs on ebay I think about $15 each. Might get around to buying some one day, when I need to change rotors as you have to unbolt the rotor off the hub to change them.
Silenceisgolden
18th January 2018, 06:44 AM
I still have to get mine registered - I am concerned that the roadworthy tester will knock it back because of the amount of unused thread. Any thoughts on that?
Thanks to everyone,
Cheers,
Paul
Blknight.aus
18th January 2018, 05:24 PM
The threads should engage until the stud is about 1/2 to one turn short of the end of the nut.
Eric SDV6SE
18th January 2018, 06:56 PM
I still have to get mine registered - I am concerned that the roadworthy tester will knock it back because of the amount of unused thread. Any thoughts on that?
Thanks to everyone,
Cheers,
Paul
I would expect that a RWC tester who knows what they are doing will knock that back and not issue a RWC with wheel nuts only engaged by 2-3 threads.
You really need to have 3-4 threads minimum past the nut to ensure full thread engagement between the nut and wheel stud, otherwise it’s asking for trouble.
One of the earlier photos shows correct thread protrusion.
JDNSW
19th January 2018, 06:45 AM
While that is correct for the wheel nuts in question, it should be pointed out that Landrover wheel nuts prior to 1970 (the double sided ones) are designed to have the stud not fully fill the nut, with the stud a couple of threads below the end of the nut. But these are longer nuts relative to the stud diameter.
DeeJay
20th January 2018, 11:15 PM
The Wolf rims are thicker than the standard military rims and on the 6x6 the front studs don't come right through the nuts. Mine is the same. I haven't worried about changing them out but you can get the 60mm studs on ebay I think about $15 each. Might get around to buying some one day, when I need to change rotors as you have to unbolt the rotor off the hub to change them.
They are doable with the hubs attached, at least on a Series. Its a matter of rotating the hub- cant recall to what position though. The longer ones can be fitted same way & pulled tight by using a larger nut over the stud & pulling into position ( align the splines of course) with a wheel nut & grease.
My Series SWB had the same problem as the OP when fitted with Wolf Rims. I bought the longer studs FRC7577 from Paddocks (20) which cost me $175 inc postage & bank fee's, now I am running Sunraysias & the studs protrude as per RAR110"S picture.
Silenceisgolden. you could always borrow some standard wheels/tyres to get you through a RWC...   This topic has previously been covered & I recall quite a few Landies have shorter studs as per yours without practical issues.             
David
Silenceisgolden
21st January 2018, 07:33 AM
Thanks Deejay, good suggestion - I can borrow the front wheels off my 130. I have ordered the long studs from Landybits - if I can fit them without removing the hub I will do so, but otherwise I will just borrow my Defender wheels for the roadworthy and fit the studs at a later date.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.4 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.