Help with parts list for D2 2" Spring lift.

[MickG]

I am nearing the point where I can go ahead and start buying the kit needed to give my D2 a TRUE 2" spring lift with the aim of gaining more down travel at the same time. So, from the research I have done and from having a good look under my car today, the list below should be all I have to buy/modify. Are there any other parts I have missed or mods I should consider to make sure my car rides properly both on and off road without messing anything up. Has anyone done this to theirs or know of a kit available to cover all parts needed?

For info if its relevant, I have a '99 D2 manual TD5 with ACE, winch bar, rear bar, 265/75r16 Muds

I am looking at buying some King springs perhaps 2.5" - 3" lift (maybe 270lbs rear 180lbs front) so they will settle around 2" and need or think I need the following.

1. Longer travel shocks - what length, make etc
2. Raised sway bar mounts - to make sure sway bar maintains travel
3. Longer ABS/brake lines
4. Lowered bump stops - size will depend on what shocks I use
5. Spring retainers
6. May have to modify front cross member to allow for the tail shaft to drop further

Springs are the easy part but everything else seesms a bit more challenging. Waiting on Scorpion Racing coming back to me with some info. Hope someone can help.

Aye, Mick

[stevo]

Hi mick

1 I used extended travel bilstein shocks sorry do not know part numbers
I used to have adjustable rancho's they are no good for disco's

2 you should not need to modify sway bar mounts for a 2" lift did not do
anything to mine

3 did not do anything for the front,the rear will need changing if you use the longer travel shocks

4 yes you are correct, with the bilsteins I did not have to lower the bump stops check the min length of the shock and the centers of the mounts when the car was lowered with out springs mounted allow a bit less for compression of bump stop rubbers.

5 I think this depends on the springs used the ones I got from les richmond in melborne even with suspension fully extended still had to be
slightly compressed to get them in.the lovells I took out had plenty of room to rattle around with suspension fully extended.

6 the front may need spacing down again this depends on the length of the shocks lift the front of the car and allow the suspension to fully hang down and check the clearance.I did not have to change mine came close
but did not touch.

talk to andrew at les richmond in melbourne he can help and does know his stuff and may be cheaper

good luck

[LandyAndy]

Timely post Mick
My shocks are stuffed so looking to do a 2" lift and also rear polyairs.
I realise this has been covered before guys,looking forward to reading as mutch input as possible,Id like to get it right first time.
Andrew

[MickG]

Originally posted by stevo
you should not need to modify sway bar mounts for a 2" lift did not do anything to mine


Considered this mod as I am aiming to put longer travel shocks on and therefore the mounts on the axle housing may get twsited as they reach full drop?? Not 100% sure but as I want a true 2" lift and may use 2.5" or 3" springs, surely i would need to consider moving the axle mounts up say 2" to accomodate the amount of down travel i'm after with the longer shocks and spring??

I currently have a 2" OME spring lift with matching shocks but by changing the set up, I am aiming to soften up the ride and gain more down travel at the same time. With my current set up, I did not have to change anything at all, simply fitted the springs and shocks and away I went.


Originally posted by LandyAndy
Timely post Mick
My shocks are stuffed so looking to do a 2" lift and also rear polyairs.
I realise this has been covered before guys,looking forward to reading as mutch input as possible,Id like to get it right first time.
Andrew

As i'm getting rid of my set up through this process LandyAndy, maybe you want to buy my kit - PM me for more info and specs if you are keen.

Appreciate all the feedback so far, very useful, Mick

[stevo]

the bilsteins I fitted allowed more down ward travel,you can also get them
the same as the disco ones,when I first fitted the springs the front was raised 70 mm the back I fitted a 2" spacer under the airbag then changed the settings in the computer to keep the car level.
I have noticed nothing hitting or bending and I did a trip through the vic high country over the xmas break plenty of times when axles where fully articlated or fully extended when I had to winch myself over a tree across
track.

If you went for a 4" lift then yes you would have to do something with the mounts,I have ace fitted to mine do not know if axle mounts are different
between ace/non ace vehicles.

[MickG]

Slight correction, by sway bar I think I mean anti roll bar or watts link?? As you can see, I'm not a mechanic so more than ever need some input here incase I miss something.
From the Rave CD, it looks like it the anti roll bar links I am talking about adjusting. Was thinking I could make a plate to raise the mounting points on the axle housing or even cut the link bars going to the axles housing and re-weld a piece of bar back in to give me the length I need?

Jees, this is getting complicated but I want to make sure I get this right before I spend $. All the work I have discussed doing will be done by a qualified mechanic, don't worry about that, I simply want to know what it is I have to do so I understand what is going on underneath my beast.

Remember its down travel I'm primarily after more than anything - hence longer shocks and springs - but am trying to gain the correct lift at the same time if I can.

Thanks again for all the input so far, Mick

[Redback]

Mick, you'll need to go more than 180lb if you have a bar and winch, 180lb is close to standard, i have 230lb on mine and i reckon 210lb minimum, talking to the guys on the d2au forum.

My setup is the same as Slunnies 4" lift and i'm using the Bilsteins long travel in the rear and Rancho 5000 rear GU/GQ spec shocks in the front.

Bilstein are the only shock maker where you don't have to modify the shocks to suit a over 2" lift i went with the Ranchos because they were cheaper as i didn't have the budget at the time, i allready had the rear bilsteins fitted when i did my first lift, so if going with a genuine 2" lift the Bilsteins are the go, i had to get made up for the front shock the cross pin and top bushes to suit the larger hole the GQ/GU shock has, so i could put these shocks on.

Bilsteins are bloody expensive though, but for 2" to a 4" lift the open and closed length is good with 393mm closed and 689mm open.

The other thing you have to look at is the crossmember under the front drive shaft, to make sure it doesn't hit cause with an over 2" lift it will touch the prop shaft at full articulation.

With ACE thats another story, Slunnie is your man for lifting an ACE equiped D2.

Baz.

[MickG]

Originally posted by Redback
Mick, you'll need to go more than 180lb if you have a bar and winch, 180lb is close to standard, i have 230lb on mine and i reckon 210lb minimum, talking to the guys on the d2au forum.

<span style="color:darkred">Hi Redback, I have 180lbs OME (part no 777) in the front at the moment matched with OME shocks (part no N107) but dont have a winch (and wont be getting one for a while). I also have ace but have found the front has sagged slightly. I'm not sure if it is the ACE that gives me the firm ride but maybe around 210lb is the go and may avoid sagging down the track?</span>


Originally posted by Redback
My setup is the same as Slunnies 4" lift and i'm using the Bilsteins long travel in the rear and Rancho 5000 rear GU/GQ spec shocks in the front.

<span style="color:darkred">If I wanted a true 2-2.5" lift (therefore perhaps a 3" lift spring), would the Bilstien long travel shocks work with my set up and do you have part no.s etc?</span>


Originally posted by Redback
The other thing you have to look at is the crossmember under the front drive shaft, to make sure it doesn't hit cause with an over 2" lift it will touch the prop shaft at full articulation.

<span style="color:darkred">Yeah, I was going to look at this also as it is the down travel I am after. Options as I see it are using spacer plates on the cross member mounts (but then this lowers this point of the car) Other option maybe to cut and plate the bar or perhaps a combination of both - what have you done and have you had to do anything else to your drive shafts etc because of the angles?</span>


Originally posted by Redback
With ACE thats another story, Slunnie is your man for lifting an ACE equiped D2.

<span style="color:darkred">I think even going for the true 2-2.5" lift (around 3" spring lift) the ACE is unaffected, but I could be wrong.</span>

<span style="color:darkred">Thanks for the input Redback, I'm getting closer to understanding what it is I am going to end up doing.....wish it was just a case of "Ah, you are after a 2.5" true lift, well you will neeed this, this this and will need to change this and this.....here is a kit with everything you need" https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Aye, Mick</span>

[walker]

Mick, I think I have talked to you before about this but I can't remember.

Since you have ACE you can go pretty light on the front springs without anyproblems and it will give you much better flex. Both myself and David Danks are running 150lb springs on the front but these were custom made so that they still gave a 2" lift. he standard springs on the TD5 are just under 150lb and I think we got the new ones made 3.5" longer than standard which ended up perfect with bar and winch.

We had our springs made by Browns Springs in Melbourne, but in QLD you may be able to get Dobinsons to make you a custom set or look up spring makers in Yellow pages. I found that getting a custom set made was cheaper than buying off the shelf.

Rear I am not so sure about as we both have air but it will all depend on whether you still want to load it up for trips.

For the shock I am using Tough Dogs extended 41mm shocks. These have been great and give me heaps more flex than others that I have tried but they are still the limiting factor. If you go any longer then you will need to modify the shock mounts or increase the bumpstops otherwise the shock will bottom out on compression.

I don't like the Bilsteins as I reckon they are way too hard. They are probably very good for touring but I have them on my Rangie and will be getting rid of them as soon as I can afford new ones.

No need to worry about anti roll bar if you keep the lift under about 2.5". Once you go over that then you do need to do some fairly expensive mods to the ACE. Slunnie is the best one to speak to about that. You might want to visit the D2au yahoo forum.

[MickG]

Originally posted by walker
Mick, I think I have talked to you before about this but I can't remember.

Hey walker, yeah you have helped me with great info before, and since then, I have learnt that more lift doesn't always mean more down travel, so, decided to stick with a true 2 - 2.5" lift - as opposed to going for a 3-4 which I was thinking of doing.
I still like the idea of the softer sprung front and you have confirmed that ACE will allow me to go softer - will be speaking again to King springs to see if they can custom make some for me - once I decide what spring rate to go for in the rear.
As for shocks, I am willing to adjust the bump stops in order to fit larger shocks so I can get more down travel so any suggestions on shock length - how much further travel do you think I would gain with the 41mm Tough Dogs over my current OME shocks (which are mated to my 2" OME spring lift)? I have heard that the Bilstiens are a bit firmer but willing to look at many options if I can get the down travel I'm after plus good road handling.
So many questions and options, but hell I'm learning https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Thanks again for the input, Mick

[HSVRangie]

set up the suspension as you want it.

Fit springs to suit IE: lth note compression rate of springs.

Check travel IE: lth of shock at fullext and full compressed.

Have Koni or Bilstien valve a shock to suit the finished product. (spring rate, vehicle weight)

they will give you thelth you want, travel you want.

then mod the shockmounts to suit new shock.

Michael.

[MickG]

Originally posted by HSVRangie
set up the suspension as you want it.

Fit springs to suit IE: lth note compression rate of springs.

Check travel IE: lth of shock at fullext and full compressed.

Have Koni or Bilstien valve a shock to suit the finished product. (spring rate, vehicle weight)

they will give you thelth you want, travel you want.

then mod the shockmounts to suit new shock.

Michael.

Thanks Michael, it is becoming apparent that this is the only way to achieve my goal. Will try and get onto Koni and Bilstien and see what they say - anyone know who best to talk to for either (will a dealer custom valve, or only the Bilstien/Koni factory direct)?

Aye, Mick

[Redback]

Mick this is the cost of the Bilstein 6100 shocks $250+$75 revalve ea x 4, i think from memory the part No is BE5-6104 & 5 from Heasmans in Sydney.

These shocks will do the 2 or 3" lift the closed length is 393mm and fully opened is 655mm not 689 as i mentioned before.

Lovells will do a custom spring too, mine where $550 for 4

Baz.

[MickG]

Originally posted by Redback
Mick this is the cost of the Bilstein 6100 shocks $250+$75 revalve ea x 4, i think from memory the part No is BE5-6104 & 5 from Heasmans in Sydney.

These shocks will do the 2 or 3" lift the closed length is 393mm and fully opened is 655mm not 689 as i mentioned before.

Lovells will do a custom spring too, mine where $550 for 4

Baz.

Gets expensive when you want to get it right first time eh......$1300 for just the shocks if I get them re-valved :roll: Those lengths sound not too bad though - 20mm diff closed fr & 30mm diff rear/47mm diff open fr & 62mm rear over my current OME shocks. Am I being silly to consider going longer still and perhaps fitting a shock designed for say a 4" lift? I would obvioulsy have to adjust the bump stop a bit and the cross member, but I want to gain as much travel as possible.

Aye, Mick

[walker]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Lovells will do a custom spring too, mine where $550 for 4 [/b][/quote]


Wow, I am happy with my deal then. I paid $240 for 4 custom springs. That is a huge difference in price.

[HSVRangie]

Originally posted by walker
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Lovells will do a custom spring too, mine where $550 for 4


Wow, I am happy with my deal then. I paid $240 for 4 custom springs. That is a huge difference in price.[/b][/quote]


who from.

Michael.

[walker]

That was from Browns Springs in Melbourne. They make all the LRA springs. And not only that but if you are not happy with them (ie. they are too long or short) you can just take them back and he will fix them up.

[HSVRangie]

thanks will have to have a chat with him.

need some more to suit what I want.

Michael.

[walker]

I can never remember his name, it's either Dave or John :? :?

[Redback]

Originally posted by walker
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Lovells will do a custom spring too, mine where $550 for 4


Wow, I am happy with my deal then. I paid $240 for 4 custom springs. That is a huge difference in price.[/b][/quote]

My Lovells are the same as Slunnies and are for touring and to carry weight, i measured them over the OME springs that was my previous lift (which were the same length as the standard Disco factory springs) and the Lovells were almost 95mm taller, she now sits 90mm over standard, the OME 2" lift actually is in reality is only 40mm and after it settles 25 to 30mm.

Baz.

[DiscoDan]

Giday Mick

I have been running Dobinson springs on my Disco now for 3 1/2 years and I went for a softer spring rate as at the time had no front or rear bar. Found that I have great travel but the front tends to bottom out now with the ARB bar on the front. (High-speed dirt work)

I also have R****o 9000 :? shocks on each corner (the were the rage in those days and won't do it again promise :twisted: ) which I have had to set to 5 to combat the extra weight. Also noticed that the free length was about 10mm shorter than the standard shocks on the rear. My mate has Pro-comp front and rear with King spring however the rear ones seem to sag every 6 months (on his third set and again needs new ones)

The Dobinsons in my opinion have worked well for me, and as a family vehicle loaded up and travelling around Aust, they may have sagged but as they all have done this at the same rate, I don't have the "I lean" problem.

When I change shocks I will put the 130 shocks on the rear as they are about 50mm longer in travel but as yet undecided on the brand. I am not to sure if the rear shocks on yours are inter-changeable with mine so not sure if they will fit your series two. I found Bluemax on Toombul road Northgate to be handy with these specs (www.bluemax.com.au) however I won’t use them as would probably like your-self be looking for a custom job rather than a shop fix. One size does not fit all. I will be contacting Dobinsons again for the springs as the run from these has been so good and they will make up ones to suit the weight of the vehicle.(http://www.dobinsonsprings.com/site/html/catalogues/coilspringcatalogue/coilfitmentlist.pdf)

Yes it seems that the Disco is going to live under this roof for many more years, :cry: call it kid starting private high school :cry: :cry: (2 more to go) The good bit of that is now I get to fix my car, and I have got the bosses approval on this (well sort of)


Now for that never ending shopping list

Danny

[LandyAndy]

Hi Mick
PM sent.
Andrew