New discovery 1 owner. 1994 ES V8 bought as project, but dash warnings!

[Mickl]

Hi everybody, I am new to forums so please be patient. The 1994 v8 runs on gas and petrol and is unregistered until I can get it up to scratch. It has two warning lights coming up on the dash which could be serious and if I can't sort out relatively cheaply will be the end of this old girl.
1. The SRS airbag light comes on with ignition and the last "s" in the srs flickers regularly. How would I find out and correct this issue? Could it be expensive?
2. The ABS light comes on also and stays on after driving up the road a bit. The brakes seem to work ok but they are not great. How do I check and correct this fault?
3. The shockies are all unserviceable and need replacing. The backs have perished air "bags" in the springs which I guess do not need to be replaced, just the shocks. Is this a dirricult job or expensive.
4. Most of the other stuff like new muffler, rear bumper and rust up along the bottom of the roof windows I can handle, I hope. Using this project as a learning experience but can't throw lots of money at it!
hope someone can give me some ideas, thanks in advance. Mickl

[AK83]

Hi, and welcome to AULRO and D1 ownership.

Sounds like typical neglect of an older vehicle.
Can't help re fixing up either .. sorry.

But, maybe PM a moderator to have your thread moved to the Discovery forum.
This one is for the old Landrover 'series' vehicles.

[Redfoxie]

I assume this has been moved as it is in the Discovery 1 section.
Unfortunately my '93 has not air bags nor abs.

Due to its age I would do a brake fluid flush, and pad change while you are there. that alone may correct the ABS light. I did mine recently and discovered that the brakes on these cars actually do work well!! ( tip for the unsuspecting: the front calipers have a bleed nipple on both sides of the rotor!) Check the rotors while you are there. replace them before you take for road worthy inspection if worn.

Does the air bag light go away when it is running?

[Mickl]

Huthanks for the fluid flush idea. I will try it when I get hold of a correctly sized wheel brace....original not in the vehicle when I got it.
no, both warning lights refuse to go out when the car is on the road.

[BathurstTom]

First thing that I would do is the "Blink test". Your disco, like my 96 300tdi one, has limited diagnostic ability, but you can do a blink test to read and clear faults on the abs. It's easier if you have a diagnostic tool, but if you follow the link below, it will cost you nothing but time and it may allow you to identify any problems. One thing to consider is that sometimes the ABS wheel sensors need pulling out, cleaning and putting back in. A simple job requiring the removal of, usually just the front, wheels, using a couple of screwdrivers to gently lever out the sensor, cleaning it and gently tapping it back in. I usually use a hammer with a block of soft wood and gently tap it until it seats home. If you are going to reseat the sensors, make sure that you clear the faults first!

It may pay to look in the diagnostic section of the forum (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/electronic-diagnostic-systems/) to see if someone has a hawkeye or nanocom near you, as it will make reading clearing faults quicker.

Link to the blink test is;
Discovery I - ABS Blink Code Procedure (http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/discovery-i-abs-codes/267-discovery-i-abs-blink-code-procedure)


Tom.

[AK83]

.... I will try it when I get hold of a correctly sized wheel brace....original not in the vehicle when I got it.
....

Did you check under the back seat(base)?

Better to get a breaker bar and either a 1-1/16th AF or 27mm socket.
6 point(not 12!!) and if you can find one as an impact type, even better.

Sometimes the nuts can tighten up as you drive along, and while the more modern std wheel braces are more solid than the old types, they're too short for the necessary force required if the wheel nuts have over tightened themselves.

You can get a very decently strong extendible breaker bar from many places(eg. Supercheap have them) .. where the handle extends and collapses .. so it doesn't take up too much room.

[Mickl]

Did you check under the back seat(base)?

Better to get a breaker bar and either a 1-1/16th AF or 27mm socket.
6 point(not 12!!) and if you can find one as an impact type, even better.

Sometimes the nuts can tighten up as you drive along, and while the more modern std wheel braces are more solid than the old types, they're too short for the necessary force required if the wheel nuts have over tightened themselves.

You can get a very decently strong extendible breaker bar from many places(eg. Supercheap have them) .. where the handle extends and collapses .. so it doesn't take up too much room.
Thanks for the tip Arthur, there was no wheel brace, just a jack without handle in the engine compartment. Will get an impact socket as you suggest. Cheers, Mickl

[Mickl]

First thing that I would do is the "Blink test". Your disco, like my 96 300tdi one, has limited diagnostic ability, but you can do a blink test to read and clear faults on the abs. It's easier if you have a diagnostic tool, but if you follow the link below, it will cost you nothing but time and it may allow you to identify any problems. One thing to consider is that sometimes the ABS wheel sensors need pulling out, cleaning and putting back in. A simple job requiring the removal of, usually just the front, wheels, using a couple of screwdrivers to gently lever out the sensor, cleaning it and gently tapping it back in. I usually use a hammer with a block of soft wood and gently tap it until it seats home. If you are going to reseat the sensors, make sure that you clear the faults first!

It may pay to look in the diagnostic section of the forum (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/electronic-diagnostic-systems/) to see if someone has a hawkeye or nanocom near you, as it will make reading clearing faults quicker.

Link to the blink test is;
Discovery I - ABS Blink Code Procedure (http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/discovery-i-abs-codes/267-discovery-i-abs-blink-code-procedure)


Tom.
Thanks for this link Tom, I will print it and give it a go but I can't see any unused connection blocks under the dash. There are only three female connectors with wires out the back and no male connectors attached.
A 4 pin white connector with 3 wires out the back with yellow tape all around.
A 5 pin blue connector with 4 wires out the back
A 6 pin white connector with 3 wires out the back
there is no unused connector with lots of pins in it so what does this mean?
mickl

[Ean Austral]

Thanks for this link Tom, I will print it and give it a go but I can't see any unused connection blocks under the dash. There are only three female connectors with wires out the back and no male connectors attached.
A 4 pin white connector with 3 wires out the back with yellow tape all around.
A 5 pin blue connector with 4 wires out the back
A 6 pin white connector with 3 wires out the back
there is no unused connector with lots of pins in it so what does this mean?
mickl

Been a long time since I had a D1 , but think its like the rest and it is actually fitted in the trim of the bottom of the dash , its not loose behind the dash. Imagine it as a plug mounted that you can push the plug of the test tool into. Look on the bottom of the dash trim about inline with the brake pedal , it will be facing straight down toward the floor.

Cheers Ean

[Fausto79]

This is no help but an auto electrician i spoke to regarding dash lights etc. said to me “why do you think they call them discos?”. Found it amusing.

Welcome to very confusing times. It’s like having a child which grew up the absolute opposite of what you wanted. You still love them unconditionally but they cause you so much angst.

I adore mine.

[Mickl]

[QUOTE=Ean Austral;2767635]Been a long time since I had a D1 , but think its like the rest and it is actually fitted in the trim of the bottom of the dash , its not loose behind the dash. Imagine it as a plug mounted that you can push the plug of the test tool into. Look on the bottom of the dash trim about inline with the brake pedal , it will be facing straight down toward the floor.
Nah, nothing there at all. I also removed the cardboard cover above the pedals and below the main plastic cover, also the side cover to the right of the accelerator. No plugs anywhere.
mick

[BathurstTom]

According to this thread (Can`t find OBDII plug - HELP!! (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-1-a/106819-can-t-find-obdii-plug-help.html)) pre 96 discos may not have one.

Tom.

[AK83]

Thanks for the tip Arthur, there was no wheel brace, just a jack without handle in the engine compartment. ....

Ah!.
Yeah the jack handle extension thingie and wheel brace are supposed to be sitting under the rear seat squab, when you double fold it forward.
I can imagine, to be a right PITA if you have stuff loaded on the back seat.

[Mickl]

Hi again everyone, I have established that this 1994 disco1 does not have the big plug for nanocom test tools.

1 The SRS test point is a 4 pin white plug and I need a T4 diagnostic tool to check this. Where does one get one of these as the car is unreg and I can't drive it to a mech shop?
2 The ABS light is also showing but I have no leads yet on how to zero in on this fault as a nanocom or Hawkeyes cannot connect and the " blink test" likewise. I have leads re wheel senders and replacing fluids but is there something which would lead me directly to the problem area?
cheers, Mick

[Ean Austral]

From memory the early D1 should have the wheel sensors , as mentioned a few posts back , take these out and clean them , look for broken wires , and proberly give the whole assembly a good clean with brake cleaner.

The D1 are pretty basic so it would most likely be something along these lines. I haven't had a D1 for a long time , so someone else may come along with more help , but that's where I would start and do each wheel.

Cheers Ean

[Mickl]

1. Antilock brake warning light still comes on the dash even after I removed and cleaned the two front senders. Brakes work but not that well and quite spongy first up.
2. I am sure I got a reply a couple of days ago which seems to have disappeared. It was about an SRS warning light bulb which that person had removed and replaced with a 5 second timed led light from Jaycar just to get past rego. Is it possible that moderator or? Could have removed that post?? I was going to ask how difficult that installation was as I need to get rego and then I can drive the car to somewhere that I can get the fault diagnosed and fixed.
cheers, Mickl

[Old Farang]

Antilock brake warning light still comes on the dash even after I removed and cleaned the two front senders. Brakes work but not that well and quite spongy first up.
The fault light will stay on until cleared, regardless of any cleaning or adjustment of the sensors. Not sure why the blink test can not clear it, but if there is another fault in the system the light will immediately come back on.

Spongy brakes can not be blamed on the ABS, and that needs fixing first. Where I am I do not have the legal problem, so I simply removed the lamp from the holder. I also have removed the fuse from the ABS pump, as I have no confidence in the system having had a near miss on a dry road on two occasions.

How do the roadworthy testing shops test the ABS? If there is a way then I suppose that you will need the lamp in, but otherwise, if the brakes work ok how would they know?

[Mickl]

The fault light will stay on until cleared, regardless of any cleaning or adjustment of the sensors. Not sure why the blink test can not clear it, but if there is another fault in the system the light will immediately come back on.

Spongy brakes can not be blamed on the ABS, and that needs fixing first. Where I am I do not have the legal problem, so I simply removed the lamp from the holder. I also have removed the fuse from the ABS pump, as I have no confidence in the system having had a near miss on a dry road on two occasions.

How do the roadworthy testing shops test the ABS? If there is a way then I suppose that you will need the lamp in, but otherwise, if the brakes work ok how would they know?
Thanks for the above, but the blink test cannot be done as there is no multi pin test port to use, just the 4 pin port which needs a T4 testing tool. I presume the T4 tool might be able to reset the warning light if the issues are found and corrected. I can probably fix the spongy brake issue after this warning light problem is overcome. Where do you get a T4 tool? This seems to be what I really need now? Mickl

[chillman]

3. The shockies are all unserviceable and need replacing. The backs have perished air "bags" in the springs which I guess do not need to be replaced, just the shocks. Is this a dirricult job or expensive.l

You can find a cheap but reasonable quality set of springs and shocks on eBay. I bought mine from Archm - King Springs with 2"lift for $540 LANDROVER DISCOVERY SER1 ARCHM4X4 / COIL SPRING 2INCH 50mm SUSPENSION LIFT KIT | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LANDROVER-DISCOVERY-SER1-ARCHM4X4-COIL-SPRING-2INCH-50mm-SUSPENSION-LIFT-KIT/161694579838?hash=item25a5bf7c7e:g:2OAAAOSwh9hZ9pV l) I normally do all my own work but I reckon it's easier to change springs on solid axle with a car lift. Midas quoted me $400 to fit, its going in tomorrow.

[rangieman]

How do the roadworthy testing shops test the ABS? If there is a way then I suppose that you will need the lamp in, but otherwise, if the brakes work ok how would they know?

Simply as if they do a proper brake test they should be taking the car for a brake test drive .

Im sure any responsible tester worth their own would try a ABS stop in safe area for safety purpose`s for all concerned .
This would prove the ABS not functioning [wink11]

[Old Farang]

Simply as if they do a proper brake test they should be taking the car for a brake test drive .

Im sure any responsible tester worth their own would try a ABS stop in safe area for safety purpose`s for all concerned .
This would prove the ABS not functioning [wink11]
OK, so how do you force the ABS to function just by doing a driving brake test? In this 3rd World country that I live in the brake tests are done on a rolling road, which they do one axel at a time, which does not force the ABS to cut in.

[BathurstTom]

OK, so how do you force the ABS to function just by doing a driving brake test? In this 3rd World country that I live in the brake tests are done on a rolling road, which they do one axel at a time, which does not force the ABS to cut in.

Put one wheel in the dirt and hit the brakes. The wheel in the dirt should lose traction before the others wheels still on the tarmac and you should feel the pedal pulsing. If you try this, only do so at a safe speed.

Tom.

[Old Farang]

Put one wheel in the dirt and hit the brakes. The wheel in the dirt should lose traction before the others wheels still on the tarmac and you should feel the pedal pulsing. If you try this, only do so at a safe speed.

Tom.
Yes it probably will, Tom. But I doubt very much if any testing center is going to take a car out of a city that has no gravel roads just to put one wheel off into the dirt. What I was interested in is how the testing centres do it, especially with permanent 4WD and other traction control systems or even auto locking diffs?

[Mickl]

Hello everyone, I was talking to a guy today about the abs on my 94 V8 disco and he thought that an abs was an option on that early model. Accordingly, why would you be unable to get a blue slip rego test pass just because the dash light was on but the brakes working fine otherwise?
If you could fix all brake issues but still the warning light came on just because the system had not been reset with the T4 tool, wouldn't it be reasonable to pass the rego check? Any bush lawyers out there?
mickl

[Tins]

Hello everyone, I was talking to a guy today about the abs on my 94 V8 disco and he thought that an abs was an option on that early model. Accordingly, why would you be unable to get a blue slip rego test pass just because the dash light was on but the brakes working fine otherwise?


More to the point, why would your car have an ABS warning light if it doesn't have ABS? Also, didn't you say you had cleaned the sensors?

[Mickl]

More to the point, why would your car have an ABS warning light if it doesn't have ABS? Also, didn't you say you had cleaned the sensors?
The car has ABS, I have cleaned the sensors but I can't clear the warning light because I do not have the correct T4 diagnostic tool. Apparently these diagnostic tools were all removed from Land Rover dealerships a while back and do not exist anymore. They only use a 4 pin connector which is in my car, whereas the obd2 diagnostic tools have 16 or so. So I don't seem to have any option to remove the dash warning light and because of that the servo mechanic will not pass it for rego. I guess I am now looking to cheat a bit and get the dash light out, knowing that the braking system will still work.
Maybe someone knows how to do this without pulling the dash out? Or is it even possible? Or legal?
cheers, Mickl

[Ean Austral]

The car has ABS, I have cleaned the sensors but I can't clear the warning light because I do not have the correct T4 diagnostic tool. Apparently these diagnostic tools were all removed from Land Rover dealerships a while back and do not exist anymore. They only use a 4 pin connector which is in my car, whereas the obd2 diagnostic tools have 16 or so. So I don't seem to have any option to remove the dash warning light and because of that the servo mechanic will not pass it for rego. I guess I am now looking to cheat a bit and get the dash light out, knowing that the braking system will still work.
Maybe someone knows how to do this without pulling the dash out? Or is it even possible? Or legal?
cheers, Mickl

I got no idea how to extinguish the light , but how is anyone going to know the light has been extinguished if nobody tells them.

I have been thru plenty of rego checks and never seen then try and ignite a fault in the system.

Just saying[bigwhistle][bigwhistle][bigwhistle]

Cheers Ean

[Mickl]

I got no idea how to extinguish the light , but how is anyone going to know the light has been extinguished if nobody tells them.

I have been thru plenty of rego checks and never seen then try and ignite a fault in the system.

Just saying[bigwhistle][bigwhistle][bigwhistle]

Cheers Ean
Thanks Ean, just need to find an easy way to get that light out. I would still be confident the brakes will work well. Cheers, Mick

[Old Farang]

Thanks Ean, just need to find an easy way to get that light out. I would still be confident the brakes will work well. Cheers, Mick
In a previous post you stated that the brakes were "spongy", now you are saying you are confident that the brakes will still work "well". It is possible that the ABS pump needs purging, or even the whole system. But if you take it for inspection with spongy brakes, then you are asking for a reject.
The ABS is not there to make the brakes work better or otherwise, it is simply a skid control device to assist in controlling how the car can be steered if one wheel starts to skid, thereby causing loss of directional control.

If you read what I previously posted you will see that I run mine without either a fuse in for the pump(just a blown dummy one) and the lamp out of the dash. It has been years since I removed the lamp, so I do not recall just how, but it is a pretty simple matter to remove the binnacle, the hardest part being the screws that hold it in place.

[Mickl]

In a previous post you stated that the brakes were "spongy", now you are saying you are confident that the brakes will still work "well". It is possible that the ABS pump needs purging, or even the whole system. But if you take it for inspection with spongy brakes, then you are asking for a reject.
The ABS is not there to make the brakes work better or otherwise, it is simply a skid control device to assist in controlling how the car can be steered if one wheel starts to skid, thereby causing loss of directional control.

If you read what I previously posted you will see that I run mine without either a fuse in for the pump(just a blown dummy one) and the lamp out of the dash. It has been years since I removed the lamp, so I do not recall just how, but it is a pretty simple matter to remove the binnacle, the hardest part being the screws that hold it in place.
I am confident that I can deal with the spongy brake problem, it is this damn warning light that is my trouble. Resetting the system with a diagnostic tool looks like it isn't going to happen so removal of the bulb is what I might aim for. i didn't see any screws holding the binnacle down , just a silicon bead so I thought it might clip on but will investigate this more, thanks, Mickl

[Old Farang]

i didn't see any screws holding the binnacle down , just a silicon bead so I thought it might clip on but will investigate this more, thanks, Mickl
Yes, there are 2 clips on mine, but they are inside towards the back. There are 2 screws on the strip just below the glass, but as the whole thing is prone to cracking yours may well have been replaced with some silastic. Mine sort of hinges up and back from the front. It is just a cover, the rest of it stays there, but probably has some more screws holding the actual cluster. The switches come away with the cover, but they all have removable plugs on the wiring.

[BathurstTom]

I copied this from another site. Perhaps if you look at your four pin plug and see if it has the same coloured wires as described below. If so, follow the instruction and hey presto. Makes sense that the procedure would be similar as both used Testbook, Just a different plug.

Troubleshooting Why Your ABS Light is On - Range Rover (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/13/0/19/DealFrame/DealFrame.cmp?bm=260&BEFID=96425&aon=%5E1&MerchantID=515275&crawler_id=515275&dealId=0PioLSlrldyTw74heHrtrA%3D%3D&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.mytopia.com.au%2Frange-rover-inspired-orange-12v-kids-ride-on-car-evoque-pre-order%2F&linkin_id=8078072&Issdt=180205023626&searchID=p5.6220191a4f28bfaed2d2&DealName=Range+Rover+Inspired+Orange+12V+Kids+Ride +On+Car+-+Evoque+-+PRE-ORDER&dlprc=169.0&AR=4&NG=2&NDP=5&PN=1&ST=7&FPT=DSP&NDS=&NMS=&MRS=&PD=&brnId=14305&IsFtr=0&IsSmart=0&op=&CM=&RR=4&IsLps=0&code=&acode=259&category=&HasLink=&ND=&MN=&GR=&lnkId=&SKU=KIDVEHROVAEOR) Classic and Discovery 1
If your ABS Light is illuminated and you are not near a dealer or other diagnostic equipment, you
can use the blink method to determine what is causing the fault. First locate and remove the ABS
Warning Light Relay from the group of relays underneath the seat (consult owner's guide for
specific vehicle location, if needed). Then, find the blue 4 pin connector under the front of the
driver's seat on the RR (or under the black, cardboard lower dash drivers side on the Disco-1) and jumper the
black to black/pink wire (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/13/0/19/DealFrame/DealFrame.cmp?bm=228&BEFID=96425&aon=%5E1&MerchantID=471243&crawler_id=471243&dealId=Qf3H_lYpRaPqeBkAWQNdIQ%3D%3D&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.hipkids.com.au%2Fbuy%2Fpink-pearl-stroller%2FHP00277P%3Futm_source%3DAUShopping%26ut m_medium%3Dcpc%26utm_campaign%3DAU%2BShopping.com&linkin_id=8078072&Issdt=180205023626&searchID=p3.eb3e5a4e40716f10112b&DealName=Wooden+Pink+Pearl+Stroller+by+Hipkids&dlprc=59.95&AR=3&NG=3&NDP=5&PN=1&ST=7&FPT=DSP&NDS=&NMS=&MRS=&PD=&brnId=14305&IsFtr=0&IsSmart=0&op=&CM=&RR=3&IsLps=0&code=&acode=231&category=&HasLink=&ND=&MN=&GR=&lnkId=&SKU=HP00277P) with the key on – a paperclip will work.
ATTN: Only pre OBDII Disco's had the blue 4-pin connector. The base is blue and I am pretty sure it is X104 in Rave.

All OBDII Disco I's you have to jump terminals 5 and 15 on the data link connector. The data link connector is where you would plug in
your scanner to read engine codes. You do not have to pull the relay.

OBD2 pin out:
\ 1. 2. . 3. 4 . 5. 6. . 7 . 8. /
. \9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 /

Remember that 16 is +12V at all times. Be careful that you only stick it in 5 and 15!!

(forget all of the periods, just trying to space it out)


Jumper together terminals 5 and 15 with a paper clip and with the ignition in the on position II,
read the blink codes.
If you remove the paper clip while reading the code, it will erase that code. So that's what I did,
read and erase each code, one at a time. Took for a test drive, light went out, all is well. The light will stay on until you drive it.


The ABS light will first flash a long then short blink to indicate the system is in diagnostic mode.
Then you will start to get a flash sequence. Don’t panic cause the code will repeat. There will be a
set of flashes then a pause then another set of flashes then a long pause then it will repeat that
code 2 more times. You are counting two sets of flashes (i.e. blink, blink, pause, blink, blink, blink,
blink, blink, blink would be code 2-6 or “Stop Light Switch Fault…see codes below.)

To clear the code…you need to remove the jumper during the flash sequence.
Note: You may have more than one code to clear so don’t panic if you clear the code and another
sequence begins. It will continue to flash the code(s) until it has been displayed then the ABS
light will stay on. Turn the key off then back on & reinsert the jumper to go to the next code. If you
are not sure of a code just leave the jumper in & cycle the key on & off to restart the sequence.
Write down each code as you go & erase each one by pulling the jumper during the blink
sequence to erase that code. When you pull the jumper, allow the sequence to finish. The ABS
light will stay on after the code has finished blinking. Let me know if you need any more help or if
you need to know what the codes mean.

The ABS code series always starts with the following sequence of 1 long, 1 short, pause 1 long,
and 1 short. It then goes into displaying the codes. Every code starts with 2 pulses on (2.5s each)
and then a series of pulses which are the rest of the code.
Codes:
2-12 Front Right
2-13 Rear Left
2-14 Front left
2-15 Rear Right
Reason: Too large an air gap, or sensor has been forced out by exciter ring – try tapping sensor
back into place.
5-12 front right
5-13 rear left
5-14 front left
5-15 Rear Right
Reason: Sensor wire has an intermittent fault – check connection(s).
6-12 front right
6-13 rear left
6-14 front left
6-15 rear right
Reason: no output from sensor. Sensor may have too large an air gap. Try tapping in sensor(s),
check connections.
4-12 Front right
4- 13 rear left
4- 14 front left
4- 15 rear right
Reason: Wiring to sensor is broken or sensor resistance is too high. Inspect wiring at sensors.
2-6 Stop light switch (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/13/0/19/DealFrame/DealFrame.cmp?bm=0&BEFID=63715&aon=%5E1&MerchantID=513023&crawler_id=513023&dealId=O1bkf2S9VI4NRwv5NwtlDQ%3D%3D&url=http%3A%2F%2Ftracking.searchmarketing.com%2Fcl ick.asp%3Faid%3D620015440002847614%26sdc_id%3D%7Bs dc_id%7D&linkin_id=8078072&Issdt=180205023626&searchID=p8.e05f19e5e294842f7810&DealName=Stop+Talking+Start+Doing+Action+Book&dlprc=21.95&AR=1&NG=4&NDP=5&PN=1&ST=7&FPT=DSP&NDS=&NMS=&MRS=&PD=&brnId=14305&IsFtr=0&IsSmart=0&op=&CM=&RR=1&IsLps=0&code=&acode=36&category=&HasLink=&ND=&MN=&GR=&lnkId=&SKU=WI57086860)
Reason: Faulty switch or wiring. Replace brake light switch (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/13/0/19/DealFrame/DealFrame.cmp?bm=970&BEFID=63715&aon=%5E1&MerchantID=524989&crawler_id=524989&dealId=JUMTzw5rMkSdRK7lnftHRQ%3D%3D&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.genesis.com.au%2Fswitch-nutrition-power-switch-amino-switch-keto-switch-pre-workout-fat-burning-recovery-pack.html%3Fgdffi%3D0b23a0c99c284106b37951faff20e1 7e%26gdfms%3D096A55FC30D44CC5A544BC8795809D19&linkin_id=8078072&Issdt=180205022116&searchID=p8.16154985f3736c9f7ae1&DealName=Switch+Nutrition+Power+Switch+%2B+Amino+S witch+%2B+Keto+Switch+-+Pre+Workout%2C+Fat+Burning+%26+Re&dlprc=204.9&AR=4&NG=4&NDP=5&PN=1&ST=7&FPT=DSP&NDS=&NMS=&MRS=&PD=&brnId=14305&IsFtr=0&IsSmart=0&op=&CM=&RR=4&IsLps=0&code=&acode=970&category=&HasLink=&ND=&MN=&GR=&lnkId=&SKU=POWER-SWITCH%2BAMINO%2BKETO-SWITCH).
Code 2-7: Continous supply to the ECU with the ignition off. Faulty valve relay or wiring.
Code 2-8: No voltage to ABS Solenoid valves. Faulty valve relay or wiring.
Codes 3-0 to 3-9: Open circuit or connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster, or in ECU.
Codes 4-0 to 4-9: Short circuit to earth from ECU to solenoid valve in booster.
Codes 5-0 to 5-9: Short circuit to 12 volts in connection from ECU to solenoid
valve in booster. Possible earth fault.
Codes 6-0 to 6-9: Short circuit between two connections from ECU to solenoid valve in booster.

I will add this link. It is not for our specific model of ABS controller, but the code list is complete and should point you closer to a code not listed above....

Tom.

[AK83]

.... i didn't see any screws holding the binnacle down , just a silicon bead so I thought it might clip on but will investigate this more, thanks, Mickl

Screws don't hold the binnacle 'down', they hold it (best described as) back.

Drop the steering column as low down as it goes, and you should see the two screws along the front face, about 5mm from the top of the steering column top cover. Long screwdriver can get them ok.
That face where they hold back usually cracks up, and usually the screws do nothing, as they cave into the binnacle.

Switches are best pulled out from their slots, just enough to reveal each connector. place them in an order so that you remember where they each go again.

The rear tabs just slide in and out of receiving slots inside and under the front curved edge of the binnacle .. but the receiving slots are usually busted too.

Hence why someone used silicon along the lower edge of the binnacle! .. most likely none of the fixtures will be holding the binnacle down :D

I'm looking through the Haynes manual now, and for the ABS warning light on the instrument cluster, it's controlled by a Black and Grey(grey on black!!) wire at the ABS warning relay.
My D1 doesn't have ABS, so I can't tell you where this ABS warning relay is(sorry).
The relay will be a 4 pin relay, and the other three wires(colours) should be 1 x Brown/Pink, and 2 x black.

I've discovered that the ABS control unit(ABS ECU) resides behind the glovebox.
It should have a multi connector, with 35 wires(or so) on that multiplug. There may be a lot of pure white, or green wires and many other multi coloured(striped) wires.
There is only one Black and Grey wire on that multi plug, according to Haynes, the location of that wire is pin26 on that 35 wire connector.

What I'd try first, would be to disconnect the multi plug on the ABS ECU and see if that extinguishes the ABS light on the dash first.
Only problem with that is that there is also a ABS load relay as well.(4 pin too).
Both those relays are powered from the ABS ECU, so disconnecting it's plug will obviously render the ABS totally inoperable.

Both those power wires to the relays appear to come off the Brown/Pink wires(2 of) at pin 1 and pin 14 on that connector.
They join at a common connector and then separate back out to each relay again individually.

I can't find any info on that 4 port diagnostic plug tho.

Hope that bit of info is useful for 'ya.

[AK83]

Found the location description of the ABS warning relay in the Haynes manual:

It says "behind passengers side of fascia on bracket".

If this is so, then this would be the way to tackle the light issue, rather than risk the instrument pod coming all loose on 'ya.

Exactly where this means is unknown to me(remember mine doesn't have ABS!) .. but look for a 4 pin relay with 2 black wires, 1 Brown/Pink(remember both ABS relays have this wire colour tho!) .. and the differentiator wire is that Black and Grey that powers the ABS warning light.

[barnfindseries3ffr]

I had a mate that used to black out the warning lights with black satin paint and a small paint brush 😂😂😂
Probably not advisable to do but funny as now that I am driving his car's around.

[BathurstTom]

May I suggest that the OP is given a chance to fix the problem correctly prior to bypassing the problem?

Tom.

[Mickl]

Wow, there is so much knowledge out there. I am really blown away with it but also with the effort you forum members go to to help unknown strangers like me. Thanks once again. I am learning lots. Electronics has been a total mystery to me, but I am making some headway with this problem now.
Whilst the anti-lock braking system is clearly an advance, I am still comfortable if this car can perform satisfactorily without it, as do most of the early Disco 1 cars out there. So now I am moving on to checking all the brake cylinders are working correctly and that the system is purged of any air and has new fluid.
Another plus today was when the neighbour called around ( the same guy who sold me the car recently .....he had a stroke last year and cannot drive now) and he produced the lost jack handle. I bought a 27 mm black air socket last week so I can remove the wheels now.
thanks everyone once again, no doubt I will be posting more problems as I work through this project. Mickl