The dreaded transmission, HDC and suspension faults on 2007 TDV6 D3

[PeterOZ]

Hello Folks,
I have a generally happy 2007, MY08 TDV6 Disco 3. Have had it since new. It does have LLMAS fitted. 226 thou Km with original transmission.

Was on a disco group drive to Bribie Island beach on Australia day and the run down onto the beach and along the beach encountered no dramas. Was in sand mode, think DSC was (not sure though) and LLAMs on. Low range.

We set up camp for BBQ etc down towards Caloundra end and it was decided to head back via the inland track.

I was second last to tackle the beach exit. DSC off, sand mode, low range, LLAMS on orange. Off I went and was about half way up when I got the dreaded "bong bong" dash lights everywhere, transmission fault, HDC fault and suspension lowering. All I could do was keep foot down as the sand was incredibly soft and managed to limp into the toilet area just over the ridge.

Comfort stop and did the lock / unlock 3 times reset trick. Started up, all looked good and off I went. Within 100m it did it again, stopped, turned off etc and off again. Into limp mode multiple times. Put LLMAS into extended mode on the fly to at least keep the body up off the stops and got through to where I could stop safely and think about it. To compound the problem had lost my prescription sunnies which were new in the surf and could not read instruments very well.

Got going again and was stuck behind a pajero dawdling which caused me to have to slow right down and again got the fault. Pulled over again, got going and had jut entered a really soft and deep sand area and Justas Ihi it the fault returned this time wit restricted performance. could not punch through it and down I went bogged. Tyres were at 18psi.

Go the shovel out and tried to dig sand away but as it was red hot and I only had thongs I was having trouble, hopping about and swearing! Ouch!

Couple of blokes in a troopy tray back and a triton pulled up an they had a set of trax. We lowered the tyres down to 14 psi, dug out more and shoved the tracks under the rears.

So with a little time to think about it all I decided to turn LLMAS off, DSC off ( I think) sand mode, offroad height, low range. Gave it a bootfull and once the tyres hit the track it shot out. The blokes said to not stop to help with the trax but to keep going!! I had thanked them before trying it.

Anyway it behaved itself! Got almost to the end of the track with only one fault out, stopped, rest and cared it ad off again with no further drama. No issues on he road though it felt sluggish. Day after I cleaned the MAP sensor and it is running nicely again even though the sensor did not look that bad.

Soooo the $69 question what is the likely cause? I also noticed that on the speedo cluster I got a flashing yellow headlight symbol.

I replaced the brake light switch last year. No failed brake lights. I've read of low battery voltage and other sensors causing it. I'm suspicious that when LLMAS was switched off it was 99% back to normal.

Hope somebody can shed some light. Zaps my confidence to take it on the beach again.

So very grateful to the blokes who stopped to help me, the group I was with were not even aware I had trouble and did not wait for me. [bawl][bighmmm]

cheers
Peter

[ytt105]

Sorry, but with 226k, I think you might have to start reading the transmission FAQ!

[Graeme]

Llams when off is still processing the height sensor signals, just not adjusting them so for Llams to be the cause the faults would in all likelihood have to persist after Llams was removed. A DSC fault will trigger lowering of the suspension and poor engine performance such that may have been the trigger for restricted performance will trigger the gearbox fault. Whether an abs sensor fault occurred first or the engine faulted might be hard to determine.

[PeterOZ]

Thanks Graeme. I did start reading the 51 pages of transmission FAQ but seems to be all oil and pan related with a few shudders thrown in. 😳😂

[Ean Austral]

I have had these faults appear with low battery voltage due to a dead cell in the battery , also a bad earth when playing around with the earth studs in front of the main battery.

Have you got a code reader that may narrow it down at all ?? Its seems a common fault that I have experienced and usually its a voltage thing that's leads to the system loosing comms and that's the fault it throws up.

Not sure if that's your issue but something else to check I guess.

Cheers Ean

[PeterOZ]

Thanks Ean. Need to get myself a GAP BT.
I’ll do some readings tomorrow with the DMM.
Interestingly the negative battery connector is not flash but has been like it for years. I wonder perhaps?
Where does it vanish to? To chassis somewhere inaccessible no doubt.

[Ean Austral]

Thanks Ean. Need to get myself a GAP BT.
I’ll do some readings tomorrow with the DMM.
Interestingly the negative battery connector is not flash but has been like it for years. I wonder perhaps?
Where does it vanish to? To chassis somewhere inaccessible no doubt.

Some very strange things happen to these cars with bad earth. I removed the wires on the 2 studs in front of the main battery to check fitting for a second auxillary battery and put them back on with 1 other lead from the traxide , and I must have done it wrong somehow cause the car lit up like a Christmas tree , dropped to the bump stops and no matter how many times I cleared them they came straight back. Ended up taking the extra wire off , cleared the faults and they never appeared. It I didn't see that with my own eyes I would never believe it if I was told that could happen.

Cheers Ean

[PeterOZ]

One reason I have negative for aux systems such as relays for spots, light bar going direct to chassis and not off the battery post.

[Ean Austral]

One reason I have negative for aux systems such as relays for spots, light bar going direct to chassis and not off the battery post.

The D3 negative lead is different to the D4 as there is no Battery Management System on the lead - well not on mine anyway. First sign of trouble and I will be buying a new lead with a normal type battery clamp on it. You cant do it with the positive as it has that bloody fuse hanging off it.

Some will say you cant but I have removed the lead and the only thing I can see different is the type of clamp on the end.

Cheers Ean

[101RRS]

As Ean has alluded to, one of the reasons you get these cascading faults is poor communications between systems normally because of voltages being outside tolerances. If you read the codes you will find "communication errors" in most areas with normally only one "real fault" code in the area that is actually causing the problem. The issue is finding the source and code reading will give the pointer.

Though not likely to be your issue - recently I had an alternator failure with the battery still staying up around 12.8v - I had all that you had and more - even the doors were locking and unlocking. The suspension was saying it was going down but wasn't but the gearbox was locked in gear. Reading the codes showed up communication faults in all problem areas but the only real fault was a short to earth in the alternator - the cause.

So you need to get the codes read to find where the real issue is - possibly a combination of things - obvious is low voltage (maybe just a low battery at the time), earth fault, brake light switch.

Very frustrating but see what the codes say.

Garry

[PeterOZ]

Roger that. Looks like gadget buying time.

Mind you it has not faulted once since then. Damn thing.

[101RRS]

Mind you it has not faulted once since then. Damn thing.

Yep sounds like a communications fault caused by something intermittent - of course if it doesn't come back all is good and well - however ..................

[PeterOZ]

yes I know mate and I hate intermittent faults like that.
I'll save my pennies to get a GAP BT code reader which will hopefully narrow down the real issue.
cheers
P

[101RRS]

Of course it could have been just an overheated air compressor and the air tank was depleted and when it cooled a bit all was good - take the bottom cover off and clean it out. I normally get compressor hot - having a rest message or slow to get it up but sometimes, like you I have had a complete time out lets have a rest message and flopped down.

[LRD414]

Interestingly the negative battery connector is not flash but has been like it for years. I wonder perhaps?
Peter, maybe the rough beach exit shook the negative just enough to get a poor connection as per Ean's description.
And it was cleared and didn't return once you were driving on smooth roads.
It could also be a connector somewhere else that was shaken on the beach exit.

Scott

[PerthDisco]

I had this and it was the brake light switch even though I had preventatively replaced it a few years previously at time of timing belt change. It always seems at the time to be a major disaster but 99% turns out to be a simple thing fortunately.

[Ean Austral]

yes I know mate and I hate intermittent faults like that.
I'll save my pennies to get a GAP BT code reader which will hopefully narrow down the real issue.
cheers
P

There must be someone nearby who has a code reader that can check it out for you. Might cost a cold one for their trouble but atleast you can make a start.


Cheers Ean

[chilli]

Pete I got 2008 model mate so pretty much apples with apples.. same thing happened to me about 50k ago. Someone mentioned the earthing wire which is your first and on your knees please be this simple check. Crazy stuff can happen as it does get rusted up pretty easy.
2nd would be to get MR Auto to check your fuel pressure.. could be fuel line problem which triggers transmission faults.. no I don’t know why??
Lastly....I’m assuming you’ve had your transmission pan and oil changed with the mid to prevent coolant leaking into transmission... but it does sound like the box could be gone. Best way to know is to drive without putting any pressure on gear changes (keep it under 2000 revs).. then counter that drive by giving it the berries and pushing the gear changes.. if that triggers a fault it’s pretty much a reco job on the way.

[PeterOZ]

Earth cable and the connector is on my list and yes it looks cruddy. I'm thinking to replace teh whole thing If I can find where it looks back to, bured in the bowells as only LR can do [bigwhistle]

I'll also being having a wiggle of the wires on the LLAMS looms to see if I may have a loose conector and see if the dash plays jingle bells. [wink11] Thanks navydiver for the hint on that.

Transmission does have the steel pan and has been double flushed 3 times in it's life. It does not fault on the road, only during heavy offroad such as deep soft sand and 99% only when LLMAs is on.
Trans is probably suspect and about due for another flush though given it's age I am leaning to just keep road driving in a gentle manner to extend it's life a bit then will get it rebuilt.

As for MR after them screwing up my timing belts I would not trust them to check my tyre pressure. [bighmmm]

[Graeme]

could be fuel line problem which triggers transmission faults.. no I don’t know why?? The gbox monitors engine torque as part of its gear selection strategy and if inadequate when expected to be adequate then the gbox will go into limp mode.

[crawal]

I had a similar experience several years ago towing the van , stopped and restarted several times , got the codes checked out , never had a problem after that .Cant explain what happened ?

[chilli]

The gbox monitors engine torque as part of its gear selection strategy and if inadequate when expected to be adequate then the gbox will go into limp mode.

Cheers mate. I ended up with a double whammy. Fuel line and tranny [bigsad]