Anyone installed a 1-2" body lift in a RR2 p38.

[charliebrisbane]

I have been hassling people lately about putting a bullbar on the Rangie. I have since found out, (thanks Ron and Jason), that it can be done with a disco 2 bar and some repositioning of mounts and changed drill holes for the bolts.

I figure it might be just as easy(and beneficial for larger tyres later on) to add a body lift to clear the bar. I was just wondering if anyone has had any experience with body lifts in Rovers or know of a method or kit that would be available.

Cheers,

Charlie

[RaZzA]

I wouldn't mind knowing as well - I was told to forget the body lift & just get spring lift's.... but I have no fuggin idea on whats best cost wise & useability

[walker]

Range Rov in Melbourne have just designed a 2" body lift of a Series 2 Disco. I don't know how similar they would be to lift but you might want to call them and sus it out. I know it was a lot harder than they thought it would be but they have got the whole thing looking like a factory job including rear bumper.

[Disco300Tdi]

do the 2" spring and 2" body lift....I did https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

the spring lift is easy, but there is 10 body lift point on the RR

[DiscoDan]

Did a 2" on my 85 Rangie, and one on a 89 Rangie, and 3 on 89 Datto's.

Datto's under 2 hours

Rangies around 4 hours second one easier as knew the pitfalls by then and so far all have passed Qld RTA.

Use 2" round steel bar with and 10.5mm hole dilled in it. do one side of the car at a time and it is the easiest way to gain 2 inches in height.

I think the cost of the bolts was $16 and if you buy the bar most machine shops will cut and drill for you cheap as chips. Seat belt bolts req some work and most of the brakes lines can be bent upwards to releive the stress at full travel

Hope this helps

[charliebrisbane]

So 84 RR I take it you did it ona classic?

[hiline]

Originally posted by charliebrisbane
So 84 RR I take it you did it ona classic?

yes he did on a 84RR :wink:

[Outlaw]

PM Steinzy as he's been looking into it for his P38... but he has the air suspension so looking for a lift on that https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[Utemad]

If you do end up going ahead i will give you some supplier info.
I did this on a 1997 Rodeo dual cab.

Smart Aluminium sold me 14 of 40hx60d mm blocks. Cost $45. (I used Moorooka shop but there are a few around)
A friend drilled holes in them on a lathe. (Rodeo has 10mm bolts on the cab and 12mm bolts on the tray)
The Bolt Shop on Evans Road in Salisbury sold me the 14 bolts for another $45. I reused the old nuts and washers.
Qld inspection was at Zillmere and cost around $50.

Pretty cheap lift overall. If you call a 4x4 shop (which I did originally but hung up laughing) they will quote you around $25 per 50x60mm alloy block with a hole drilled in it :roll:

[charliebrisbane]

Cool utemad. How did you find the Rodeo for length of gear stich and transfer case along with any wiring and brake line's. I reckon that will be the biggest hurdle for the p38.

That's a big help with the info all the places to get the stuff.

Thanks

Charlie

[Utemad]

The gear sticks on my Rodeo were noticably shorter. So I used an extension on the transfer shifter but I prefer the shorter gear shifter so I left it alone.
I needed to remove the body attachment point of the clutch hose to hard line. I needed to make the flexible line longer but since it sort of went to the firewall and back out all it needed was a longer bracket that took the bend out of it if you know what I am trying to say.
There are two brackets which don't actually bolt the cab to the chassis but the chassis bracket loops through the body bracket (one either side) so I imagine if all the body bolts came off it would stop the body flying off the chassis (in theory). I didn't bolt them back on as I would have had to fabricate some brackets with bigger loops. I actually refitted them for the DoT inspection but removed them when I got home as their clearance was greatly reduced and they creaked around corners which was very annoying.
Everything else was fine. However on a 50mm lift people have had to remove some metal from the body where the low range shifter pulls back into low. Otherwise it hits and will jump out of low range when you least expect it. Mine just misses.