Disco2 problems

[revird]

Hi, I'm Pete from Australia, I am not a mechanic, just a low wage earner, so trying to fix my disco2 myself, youtube has been very good so far. ok what is happening is first start up in the mornings I can put it in to R or D and press the accelerator all the way to the floor, nothing happens, motor just idles, drop into N or P and rev a bit and drop into gear and off I go.

now what I have tried so far...
I have replaced the Fuel Filter.
I have replaced the Fuel pump, due to running out of diesel at 1/4 tank, plus pump was noisy.
I have checked and freed up a sticky waste gate.
there is no fuel leaking from the Fuel regulator.
I have checked for oil in the harness, clean as a whistle.
I have done an oil and filter change on the transmission.

I hope someone can point out a few more things for me to look at, thanks in advance..

[djam1]

Hi, I'm Pete from Australia, I am not a mechanic, just a low wage earner, so trying to fix my disco2 myself, youtube has been very good so far. ok what is happening is first start up in the mornings I can put it in to R or D and press the accelerator all the way to the floor, nothing happens, motor just idles, drop into N or P and rev a bit and drop into gear and off I go. now what I have tried so far... I have replaced the Fuel Filter. I have replaced the Fuel pump, due to running out of diesel at 1/4 tank, plus pump was noisy. I have checked and freed up a sticky waste gate. there is no fuel leaking from the Fuel regulator. I have checked for oil in the harness, clean as a whistle. I have done an oil and filter change on the transmission. I hope someone can point out a few more things for me to look at, thanks in advance.. Where are you and do you have any error codes in the ECU?

[revird]

Where are you and do you have any error codes in the ECU?

Gladstone mid north South Australia, and no codes are showing using an app called Torque that reads a bluetooth OBD2 device

[djam1]

A D2 is not full OBDII so that device might have limited ability to read the codes

I am between the Wirrabara and Melrose and have a Nanocom but it’s for a TD5 Defender that might be able to read the codes not sure

[DiscoMick]

Could it be a problem with the switch on the auto which prevents the vehicle from being started unless it is in Park? Or maybe it's unrelated?

[Lemo]

Hi, I'm Pete from Australia, I am not a mechanic, just a low wage earner, so trying to fix my disco2 myself, youtube has been very good so far. ok what is happening is first start up in the mornings I can put it in to R or D and press the accelerator all the way to the floor, nothing happens, motor just idles, drop into N or P and rev a bit and drop into gear and off I go.

now what I have tried so far...
I have replaced the Fuel Filter.
I have replaced the Fuel pump, due to running out of diesel at 1/4 tank, plus pump was noisy.
I have checked and freed up a sticky waste gate.
there is no fuel leaking from the Fuel regulator.
I have checked for oil in the harness, clean as a whistle.
I have done an oil and filter change on the transmission.

I hope someone can point out a few more things for me to look at, thanks in advance..

Do you get any fault light on the dash?
If you first start car in park will it rev?
Is it only on first start in the morning or at every start?

Was this happening before the auto service?

Really need to get a proper test device nanocom or hawkeye and see if it's throwing codes - You can search for a willing member here https://www.aulro.com/afvb/electronic-diagnostic-systems/

And would be good to check the throttle with said tester

Hope this helps?

Cheers Lemo

[shack]

Hi, I'm Pete from Australia, I am not a mechanic, just a low wage earner, so trying to fix my disco2 myself, youtube has been very good so far. ok what is happening is first start up in the mornings I can put it in to R or D and press the accelerator all the way to the floor, nothing happens, motor just idles, drop into N or P and rev a bit and drop into gear and off I go.

now what I have tried so far...
I have replaced the Fuel Filter.
I have replaced the Fuel pump, due to running out of diesel at 1/4 tank, plus pump was noisy.
I have checked and freed up a sticky waste gate.
there is no fuel leaking from the Fuel regulator.
I have checked for oil in the harness, clean as a whistle.
I have done an oil and filter change on the transmission.

I hope someone can point out a few more things for me to look at, thanks in advance..
Hi Pete, I'm pretty local as well, I have been having the exact same problem on a d2a, however I have a nanocom and have had some experience with these vehicles for a while now, despite this I haven't been able to correct the problem, it's not throwing any fault codes that seem related at all.

It's almost as though the accelerator pedal is not attached, I'm not using this vehicle at the moment but from memory it's worse when it's colder weather and only seems to be first time is started for the day, is a real mystery.....
Maybe try doing a bleed immediately before starting it, see if that helps?

[AK83]

.....
I have checked for oil in the harness, clean as a whistle.
......

From this, is it safe to assume a TD5 then?


Gladstone mid north South Australia, and no codes are showing using an app called Torque that reads a bluetooth OBD2 device

No amount of fiddling or waiting for Torque or any OBD capable reader would connect to my brothers TD5.(his '03).

And my understanding of the TD5, back then, was that it didn't need to be ODB2 compatible .. so I doubt you'll get any codes out of Torque.

'00 V8 works pretty much spot on with Torque tho, and I can clear codes easily using it .. but not via the common ODB2 tools in the TD5.

[bsperka]

Could be that your MAF sensor is faulty. Takes 30 or seconds for the ECU to determine that there is no signal and use default values. You'll need someone with a Nanocom or similar to see what values the MAF is putting out as the D2a isn't OBD2 compliant. Or try disconnecting the MAF although you may only get the same result....

Google how to test the MAF with a multimeter, this may assist in determining if that's the cause of the issue. Can't see it being the throttle potentiometer if it works ok the rest of the time.

[discorevy]

Could be that your MAF sensor is faulty. Takes 30 or seconds for the ECU to determine that there is no signal and use default values. You'll need someone with a Nanocom or similar to see what values the MAF is putting out as the D2a isn't OBD2 compliant. Or try disconnecting the MAF although you may only get the same result....

Google how to test the MAF with a multimeter, this may assist in determining if that's the cause of the issue. Can't see it being the throttle potentiometer if it works ok the rest of the time.

^^^this , as long as OP's vehicle is eu3 ( 2002 my on )

[donh54]

From this, is it safe to assume a TD5 then?



No amount of fiddling or waiting for Torque or any OBD capable reader would connect to my brothers TD5.(his '03).

And my understanding of the TD5, back then, was that it didn't need to be ODB2 compatible .. so I doubt you'll get any codes out of Torque.

'00 V8 works pretty much spot on with Torque tho, and I can clear codes easily using it .. but not via the common ODB2 tools in the TD5.

Td5 was never intended for the US market, which, at the time was the only market that required full OBD2 connectivity. Hence the V8 got it but not the diesels.

Just bye the bye, have you checked the Throttle Position Sensor?

[revird]

A D2 is not full OBDII so that device might have limited ability to read the codes

I am between the Wirrabara and Melrose and have a Nanocom but it’s for a TD5 Defender that might be able to read the codes not sure

I get some details from the OBDII device, but not alot, Just ebayed a nanocom for the D2, damn thats expensive..

[revird]

Td5 was never intended for the US market, which, at the time was the only market that required full OBD2 connectivity. Hence the V8 got it but not the diesels.

Just bye the bye, have you checked the Throttle Position Sensor?

No, but that is one of the OBDII things that work, and I can see the gauge moving as I press the throttle

[revird]

Could be that your MAF sensor is faulty. Takes 30 or seconds for the ECU to determine that there is no signal and use default values. You'll need someone with a Nanocom or similar to see what values the MAF is putting out as the D2a isn't OBD2 compliant. Or try disconnecting the MAF although you may only get the same result....

Google how to test the MAF with a multimeter, this may assist in determining if that's the cause of the issue. Can't see it being the throttle potentiometer if it works ok the rest of the time.

I had thought of that, so I used youtube to check with a multi-meter, according to what he said all my voltages were correct, and it did change while I reved the motor, so by that I am guessing the MAF is ok, and using the OBDII it shows the throttle is moving correctly, but I havent tried it first start... will try that...

[revird]

Do you get any fault light on the dash?
If you first start car in park will it rev?
Is it only on first start in the morning or at every start?

Was this happening before the auto service?

Really need to get a proper test device nanocom or hawkeye and see if it's throwing codes - You can search for a willing member here https://www.aulro.com/afvb/electronic-diagnostic-systems/

And would be good to check the throttle with said tester

Hope this helps?

Cheers Lemo

No fault lights on the dash, yes it will rev in P or N just not D or R, usually only the first start in the mornings, haven't noticed it do it any other time, yes I did an auto service thinking that maybe a problem,

[Lemo]

Some simple checks you could do and a known problem is the cabling to the XYZ switch and auto get chafed on top of the auto, something to check??

[DiscoMick]

No fault lights on the dash, yes it will rev in P or N just not D or R, usually only the first start in the mornings, haven't noticed it do it any other time, yes I did an auto service thinking that maybe a problem,
So - just guessing here, probably wrong - could the XYZ be allowing the vehicle to start in P and N, but not to run in D or R?

[PhilipA]

You haven't mentioned cleaning the MAP sensor which is on the inlet manifold.

Regards Philip A

[revird]

No, but that is one of the OBDII things that work, and I can see the gauge moving as I press the throttle

Ok, Had the OBDII thingy going while I pressed the accelerator, the guage on the torque app moved with the pedal, 100% when flat to the floor and moved according to my foot, but the motor did not rev.. had to drop into P or N rev then into D

[Tombie]

No fault lights on the dash, yes it will rev in P or N just not D or R, usually only the first start in the mornings, haven't noticed it do it any other time, yes I did an auto service thinking that maybe a problem,

How did you top it back up?

Run through your process...

[shack]

No fault lights on the dash, yes it will rev in P or N just not D or R, usually only the first start in the mornings, haven't noticed it do it any other time, yes I did an auto service thinking that maybe a problem,

I think if you check you will notice that the engine revs are under the normal idle range, at least mine is when this happens, it then will not rev in gear, but once it has been revved up past the normal idle speed in park,it's good to go....

[revird]

How did you top it back up?

Run through your process...

Fill gearbox with oil to bottom of oil level/filler plug hole.
Select 'P' (Park)
Start engine and allow it to idle.
Move selector lever through all gear positions,
With engine idling, continue filling gearbox until a 2 mm bead of oil runs from oil filler/level plug hole.
Fit new sealing washer to automatic gearbox filler/level plug,

[Tombie]

Ok that Eliminates that one..

[Hudson]

Could be that your MAF sensor is faulty. Takes 30 or seconds for the ECU to determine that there is no signal and use default values. You'll need someone with a Nanocom or similar to see what values the MAF is putting out as the D2a isn't OBD2 compliant. Or try disconnecting the MAF although you may only get the same result....

Google how to test the MAF with a multimeter, this may assist in determining if that's the cause of the issue. Can't see it being the throttle potentiometer if it works ok the rest of the time.
Your on the ball with the MAF. I tried just about everting befor borrowing a spare MAF of a friend and bingo, problem fixed. If purchasing a replacement, don't settle for the cheapest. Go middle of the range.

[bsperka]

Good to see its sorted. However, beg to differ with you on which MAF. Buy the same as original - VDO brand IIRC. From a reputable seller, to reduce chance of getting ripped off.

[sierrafery]

I beg to differ even more... IMO when it comes to MAF only the Genuine LR is 100% reliable, on a D2a(Eu3) engine it makes the difference even compared with the OEM VDOs... my statement is based on many live tests and comparative readings... i reiterate: Genuine LR(made by Siemens/VDO) is not the same with OEM/genuine Siemens/VDO even though they are made by the same manufacturer...the price difference is not coming only from the LR label on the box, it's more than that

[revird]

Good to see its sorted.

Not sorted yet, still have the problem, I don't know anyone with a spare MAF, according to voltage tests as per a youtube video, mine is working fine..

I will keep trying different things..

thanks everyone for their help,

[revird]

Today I bought a new MAF as some of you suggested, hasn't made any difference,
I am running out of things to try, and replies in here have dried up,

First start up of the day, when we put it into D or R the accelerator goes to the floor with nothing happening, have to put into P or N, rev then into gear to go... any more comments please..??

[Lemo]

Hi revird,

Can you do a list of what you've tried as per suggestion so far?
Have you checked for members with test equipment (Nanocom etc) that are willing to help out a fellow member? Might be someone local to you?

One thing I could think of is if you replaced the maf with no change and unplugging is the same maybe there's a open circuit to the ecu in the return signal??

Hope you get it sorted soon!

Cheers Lemo

[Lemo]

Here's the link for
Members with Diagnostic Equipment map (updated 1/2015)

Members with Diagnostic Equipment map (updated 1/2015) (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/electronic-diagnostic-systems/213489-members-diagnostic-equipment-map-updated-1-2015-a.html)

[Lemo]

Hi revird,

Can you do a list of what you've tried as per suggestion so far?
Have you checked for members with test equipment (Nanocom etc) that are willing to help out a fellow member? Might be someone local to you?

One thing I could think of is if you replaced the maf with no change and unplugging is the same maybe there's a open circuit to the ecu in the return signal??

Hope you get it sorted soon!

Cheers Lemo

Do you have s copy of RAVE??

I've a copy at home that I can check for the wiring and plug id if you like? I'll check later this afternoon/tonight and post up some diagrams

Lemo

[djam1]

Post 3 was an offer of Nanocom use although it was a little cryptic

[revird]

Post 3 was an offer of Nanocom use although it was a little cryptic

I have sent him a message is it the same one for Defender and Discovery?

[Lemo]

Do you have s copy of RAVE??

I've a copy at home that I can check for the wiring and plug id if you like? I'll check later this afternoon/tonight and post up some diagrams

Lemo

Here's the extract from rave of the MAF electrical connection

136629

[revird]

Thanks to djam1, he brought his nanocom around, the new MAF I bought at a low price was not working at all, ebay have refunded me the cost, he was able to check my original MAF and it is working, but not the best, since that day we have noticed the lag is better, not as long, we all so noticed with his help, the wireing that goes across the front of the motor was brittle, I have undone this, cleaned it all up and put some insulation material around all the wires, I will purchase a better MAF and hopefully the problem will go away..

Does anyone have a nanocom for the Discovery 2 for sale please?

Thanks again to djam1

[revird]

Here's the extract from rave of the MAF electrical connection

136629

I have heard of RAVE, but no i do not have a copy.

[Lemo]

Not sure if this or a new group buy is happening??

Nanocom Group Buy (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/group-buy/216541-nanocom-group-buy.html)

[Lemo]

I have heard of RAVE, but no i do not have a copy.

You can get a copy from the shop at the top of the forum web page or here
RAVE II CD (https://aulro.net.au/emporium/index.php?rt=product/product&path=71_72&product_id=128)

[onebob]

SF ....can you enlarge on your comment please... are the airflow readings different in use when comparing the SIEMENS OEM with LR genuine? I expect the genuine one to have the LR Logo on it somewhere, is that correct or is there some other way to tell them apart.

[sierrafery]

SF ....can you enlarge on your comment please... are the airflow readings different in use when comparing the SIEMENS OEM with LR genuine? I expect the genuine one to have the LR Logo on it somewhere, is that correct or is there some other way to tell them apart.
the difference is visible on the casing's finishing too and on the nanocom readings as well, another clear difference is the price as the genuine LR is more expensive than the OEM(for reasons i've already revealed), the LR logo will not be on the sensor just on the box, i doubt that you'll not get genuine LR from a main or authorised LR dealer but you might be tricked by ebay sellers... don't let you misslead by the "Genuine Siemens/VDO" thing cos that means OEM not genuine LR.

[Tombie]

The genuine LR item IS the Siemens unit.

[sierrafery]

The genuine LR item IS the Siemens unit.
Genuine LR item is A Siemens/VDO unit and it's not the same with much cheaper OEM Siemens?VDO unit ... i can't find the post where i explained so i say again:

The GENUINE theory

members of my family worked/are working for an automotive parts manufacturer(i'm not allowed to tell it's name) so i know exactly how it is from inside regarding some parts, those made for let's say BMW to become genuine BMW are made on a dedicated band and in some cases those which fail the BMW imposed requirements but still ISO compliant within accepted limits are sold as OEM not binned but there is another band which makes the same parts using lower quality/cheaper feedstocks which are sold cheaper as OEM's from the beginning, even the personnel who is working on the genuine sections is better paid and it's considered a promotion to get there, that's why Genuine is more expensive and this is the same for LR or any other make too... i made tests with NEW genuine LR MAF and OEM(aka genuine VDO/Siermens) on my own vehicle and other's and the readings were different even though both are made by VDO the casing's finishing is different too, aftermarket for LR is considered everything which is not genuine LR so that genuine VDO is still aftermarket IMO, it's a false myth that Genuine LR is an expensive OEM and you pay only the brand, my statement is that OEM is an expensive aftermarket made by a reputable manufacturer who makes the genuine parts for a specific vehicle builder too, i am 100% sure and nobody can convince me the opposite

IMO it's a confusion in terms mixing OEM, OE and Genuine which is highly exploited by part suppliers.

Make your own tests and compare any expensive Genuine LR part with the same manufacturer's cheaper OEM and i'm sure that in 90% of cases you'll clearely see the difference

[Tombie]

I had 3 here... all gave slightly different readings. All absolutely the same housing, markings and surface finish...

2 OEM, 1 Genuine LR in box.

Agree with the OE etc confusion..
People ever wonder why there’s often 3 versions of OEM (Bearmach, Britpart etc)

[Lemo]

So if you get three different readings what's correct?
Was the LR version any better then the OEM, was it more stable, will you really notice the difference if it's out by a small %?
Will the LR genuine last longer?

mmm.... if I had a spare $225 I'd do some testing!

Cheers Lemo

[sierrafery]

The genuine LR will deffinitely last longer and keep the reading's accuracy the most

[PhilipA]

All I can say is my experience.
My car (2002 TD5 auto EU3 D2) had an under reading MAF when I bought it 4+years ago which caused it to miss at the top of second at about 3900RPM.

Offtrack helped diagnose it .

I replaced it with a VDO from UK and it has gone perfectly ever since for 4 plus years even with a quite warm map big intercooler, more boost, EGR er mod, etc etc.
I do clean it with MAF cleaner every service and there has never been any fine dust on it.

I have probably just jinxed myself.
Regard sPhilip A

[onebob]

Thanks SF for an interesting explanation of what i know does happen in some manufacturing processes. From your tests can you share with us the airflow reading at idle, of a new “out of the box” genuine LR air flow sensor.

[revird]

Great info guys, but starting to lose the thread a bit, still trying to work out the problem, mrs spoke to a guy from a land rover specialist in lonsdale, he seems to think it isn't the MAF, she says he named a few other things but she forgot to write them down, so I'm still stuck.

[sierrafery]

Thanks SF for an interesting explanation of what i know does happen in some manufacturing processes. From your tests can you share with us the airflow reading at idle, of a new “out of the box” genuine LR air flow sensor.
At idle is not so much difference, the good reading is very close to 60 depends on the ambient temp too but the response under load is important where there were differencies up to 100Kg/hr, genuine LRs are more constant while OEM's are like aftermarkets can be a lottery, you can be lucky to get a reliable one or not as it's possible to get cheap chinese one which works OK, comparing two genuine LRs will never give noticeable difference while two OEMs can behave differently by new... this doesnt change anything from what i said which is 100% true about how they are built, that's why i said 90% of cases cos you can find two visually similar as both were built to be genuine on the same line while one of them failed strict tests but still ISO compliant within generally accepted limits.... i dont want to have a debate on this i just shared a real information from inside

[onebob]

Thanks SF [emoji6]

[Lemo]

Great info guys, but starting to lose the thread a bit, still trying to work out the problem, mrs spoke to a guy from a land rover specialist in lonsdale, he seems to think it isn't the MAF, she says he named a few other things but she forgot to write them down, so I'm still stuck.

Just posting this here from another computer

136916

[Lemo]

Great info guys, but starting to lose the thread a bit, still trying to work out the problem, mrs spoke to a guy from a land rover specialist in lonsdale, he seems to think it isn't the MAF, she says he named a few other things but she forgot to write them down, so I'm still stuck.

So did you replaced the crap eBay unit MAF? You said the original was working but not 100%.... What reading were you getting and did you take a input fuelling log and can you post this so we can have a look? (I did another post to show what readings you get)

Let us know what the mechanic said, can you give them a call to find out? might shine some light on what else we may be able to assist with??

Cheers Lemo

[revird]

So did you replaced the crap eBay unit MAF? You said the original was working but not 100%.... What reading were you getting and did you take a input fuelling log and can you post this so we can have a look? (I did another post to show what readings you get)

Let us know what the mechanic said, can you give them a call to find out? might shine some light on what else we may be able to assist with??

Cheers Lemo

I can't remember what djam1 said was the reading from my original MAF, he said it was not 100%, the suppler refunded my money and doesnt want the MAF back.. "input fueling log" I have no idea, djam1 was incontrol of his nanocom, I was watching as close as I could. Maybe he can answer that for you?

I rang the mechanic, he said disconnect the Glow Plug Relay, (it is not needed in this country anyway) took some searching to find it, but I think its R6 in the fuse box, I have removed it, will try it out tomorrow morning when it is cold..

[discorevy]

Which year is the vehicle?, in the morning when its cold turn the ign on without starting and listen to the fuel pump, can you hear any cavitation sounds or is it an even thrum ?
You can rule out glow plugs

[revird]

Which year is the vehicle?, in the morning when its cold turn the ign on without starting and listen to the fuel pump, can you hear any cavitation sounds or is it an even thrum ?
You can rule out glow plugs

2002 Discovery2

I replaced the fuel pump, I hear it for about 20 secs then it goes quiet, if i don't start the engine.

[Tombie]

Your lack of drive is transmission related.
Was it happening prior to the oil and filter change?

[revird]

Your lack of drive is transmission related.
Was it happening prior to the oil and filter change?

Yes it was happening before, thats why the oil and filter were changed, what makes you think transmission?

[discorevy]

Your lack of drive is transmission related.
Was it happening prior to the oil and filter change?

My lack of drive in the mornings is more age related. can be sorted with a couple of coffees[wink11]
Revird, does it feel like it is going into gear in the morning, if yes then you need to sort out that the maf and associated wiring is OK , if not then on an eu3 engine ( which yours is ) there will be a delay in throttle response every time you start it . if its only doing it when the car has been sitting for a while it can point more to injector washers etc, but we need to establish if it goes in to gear first

[RobMichelle]

Have you done injector washers, wiring harness, oil in ecu?

[revird]

Have you done injector washers, wiring harness, oil in ecu?

Yep, all clean, no oil in harness. or in cpu end.

[revird]

My lack of drive in the mornings is more age related. can be sorted with a couple of coffees[wink11]
Revird, does it feel like it is going into gear in the morning, if yes then you need to sort out that the maf and associated wiring is OK , if not then on an eu3 engine ( which yours is ) there will be a delay in throttle response every time you start it . if its only doing it when the car has been sitting for a while it can point more to injector washers etc, but we need to establish if it goes in to gear first

Yes it goes into gear, reversing lights come on, as the engine is idleing it does start to move, but only at idle pace. MAF is running at about 90%, yes it is only doing it first start of the day.

[revird]

No Change... Phill @ Triumph Rover Spares Lonsdale's suggestion of removing the Glow Plug Relay did no good either...

Any other suggestions to try and trace this problem down?

[discorevy]

injector washers.... check cam timing/ injector bump clearances and you may as well change the injector harness while the rocker cover is off. maf should be running at 100%

[justinc]

How many km on trans? And is the drive delay longer when left for several days as opposed to just overnight?

[Lemo]

Hi all,

I don't think it's a drive delay from what I've read in the posts?? I think revird stated it just doesn't rev up if in park (Is this correct revird)?

I know if I leave my D2 (same year etc as revird) for a few days it's slow to take off or move but will rev no problems. Usually run through 1,2,3 D then reverse out does the trick! So my problem would be transmission related with oil draining out of the Torque converter or pump?? 278000km on D2

Can you post a video of whats happen to show us "what is exactly happening"

And if you can maybe ask the gent who helped out before to come and connect the Nanocom and do some logs, input fuelling and ......? (can someone else suggest another log to record?) You would need to have the Nanocom plugged in, turned on and ready, then let it idle, then start recording and try and rev etc like you normally would to replicate the scenario.

Cheers Lemo

[discorevy]

Yep, the way I read it was a delay in throttle response, as opposed to a delay in drive response , it sounds like the engine can be made to rev in park / neutral because there is no load on it , aside from Maf related issues,
2 things that can cause this are injector washers, and / or cam timing ( especially if the head has been off and mistimed)
Yes Lemo yours does sound oil leak back related from an aged trans

[djam1]

Not criticising but how do injector seals or cam timing cause this issue?
Surely when the engine is warm the cam timing would be the same

[discorevy]

Injector washers can let the combustion air through sometimes by the residual compression in the motor if the bad washer correlates to the cylinder on compression, it can also let combustion gas through when cold on first start which won't let an engine rev until pump pressure can purge / overcome the airlock , when the engine starts to warm up it can be enough to seal the copper washer again.
Wrt cam timing, if its set wrong ( usually retarded) when it goes into gear with cold oil , diesel , and atf it can struggle to overcome this until revved without the trans loaded up to get things warmed up , sounds strange I know but it really can be that critical and I wouldn't credit it normally , but I have twice found this problem, both times where some other person has done a bad job all round on replacing the head

[revird]

How many km on trans? And is the drive delay longer when left for several days as opposed to just overnight?

Car has done about 330,000 not sure how to find out on the trans, don't know as the car is used everyday, but as far as I've noticed, it makes no difference.

[revird]

Hi all,

I don't think it's a drive delay from what I've read in the posts?? I think revird stated it just doesn't rev up if in park (Is this correct r

I know if I leave my D2 (same year etc as revird) for a few days it's slow to take off or move but will rev no problems. Usually run through 1,2,3 D then reverse out does the trick! So my problem would be transmission related with oil draining out of the Torque converter or pump?? 278000km on D2

Can you post a video of whats happen to show us "what is exactly happening"

And if you can maybe ask the gent who helped out before to come and connect the Nanocom and do some logs, input fuelling and ......? (can someone else suggest another log to record?) You would need to have the Nanocom plugged in, turned on and ready, then let it idle, then start recording and try and rev etc like you normally would to replicate the scenario.

Cheers Lemo

I'll give it a go, and you are correct, no rev, pedal goes all the way to the floor, as the motor is idling the car does start to move.

[revird]

RAVE CD arrived... will check more, but it is really sounding like I put up with it, as I said, I am not a mechanic, just trying to save some cash...

[revird]

Thanks to all that tried to help, but I still have the same problem, Now we are noticing the TD5 needs to get upto 107k's before it will drop into top gear, tried making another thread, but aperantly I can't..
thanks again folks

[Tombie]

Thanks to all that tried to help, but I still have the same problem, Now we are noticing the TD5 needs to get upto 107k's before it will drop into top gear, tried making another thread, but aperantly I can't..
thanks again folks

If just after you pass through 85 you lift off does it drop into lock up (what you’re referring to as top)?

Sounds like you TC is failing.