Clutch problem

[andrew.morris1]

Hi all,

Hoping to get some advice. Can't seem to post in pinnacles section so sorry if this is in wrong place.
Also apologies in advance for the lack of technical language: I'm sure there are proper names for all these bits but i dont know them!


My series one clutch will not disengage.
The engine has been out for some months (lost track of how long its taken to build this thing!).
I took it out to investigate why the clutch had failed originally.
There was a sheered bolt/pin on the linkage from pedal to housing. Fixed that.
The mechanism inside the housing seems to work okay. Dont know what its called, but it pushes a ring forward that pushes on the 'fingers' of the clutch.


The engine is non-standard (its a Peugeot XD2-S) but the conversion is professional (Steve Parker Land rover from England) and the clutch has functioned properly previously. Its the land rover clutch mounted on the peugeot flywheel.

Its adjusted such that it has maximum purchase to disengage. the mechanism is the limiting factor on 'down movement' of the pedal. I can't get the pedal to the floor before the clutch internals are at their limit.

Whats the next step to diagnosing the problem? Is it possible for the clutch plate to 'stick' to flywheel even if the mechanism 'releases'?

Should i just get a whole new plate and the bit you bolt to flywheel? Is there such a thing as a reconditioned clutch available?

Help appreciated

Andrew

[bblaze]

My first thoughts would be the clutch plate in backward, as in the flywheel face to the pressure plate causing the plate not to disengage. If the clutch assemble wasn't removed from the flywheel it maybe rusted to the flywheel (seen it before), often freed up with a bit of brutal driving with the clutch depressed to cause slip
cheers
blaze

[JDNSW]

The clutch shaft is coupled to the pedal shaft by a hardened steel tube with two pins, one in each shaft. You have replaced one of these - how about the other one? Because they are only a centimetre or less radius, transmitting considerable torque, plus not much movement (at this radius) even a small amount of play here represents a lot of play at the pedal. And this also means that the pin replaced must be the correct hardened steel one, or it won't last long. My guess is that one of these pins is partly failed, or the tube is cracked.

Removing the gearlever mount should open a hole so you can see in what is happening.

[andrew.morris1]

My first thoughts would be the clutch plate in backward, as in the flywheel face to the pressure plate causing the plate not to disengage. If the clutch assemble wasn't removed from the flywheel it maybe rusted to the flywheel (seen it before), often freed up with a bit of brutal driving with the clutch depressed to cause slip
cheers
blazeThanks.

How can i tell if the plate is in backwards?

Not sure if im up for the driving just yet. Brakes aren't working yet and its a bit scary to drive at all with a sticking clutch as well?

Where in NW tassie are you? Lived in smithton from 1999-2003.

Regards

[andrew.morris1]

The clutch shaft is coupled to the pedal shaft by a hardened steel tube with two pins, one in each shaft. You have replaced one of these - how about the other one? Because they are only a centimetre or less radius, transmitting considerable torque, plus not much movement (at this radius) even a small amount of play here represents a lot of play at the pedal. And this also means that the pin replaced must be the correct hardened steel one, or it won't last long. My guess is that one of these pins is partly failed, or the tube is cracked.

Removing the gearlever mount should open a hole so you can see in what is happening.Thanks. I have both the pins in and am pretty confident they arent slack.

Thanks for the tip about opening a hatch to see inside.

[bblaze]

Thanks.

How can i tell if the plate is in backwards?

Not sure if im up for the driving just yet. Brakes aren't working yet and its a bit scary to drive at all with a sticking clutch as well?

Where in NW tassie are you? Lived in smithton from 1999-2003.

Regards

Smithton
cheers
blaze

[JDNSW]

It is possible for the clutch plate to stick to the flywheel (rust) if it has not been used for a while and is damp. In this situation you can sometimes free it by starting the engine (in top gear, braked and chocked) with your foot on the clutch, or jacking up the wheels clear of the ground, start engine in top gear, disengage clutch and apply brakes.

But it does sound as if there is another issue in this case. If the clutch has recently been worked on there are other possibilities. As suggested, the clutch plate may be in backwards, or may be the wrong plate. More likely - if I remember rightly, you have a three finger pressure plate. These fingers are adjustable, and if one is maladjusted, it will never disengage. They need to be at exactly the same height from the flywheel after the pressure plate is tightened.

ANother possibility is the spigot bush has seized - the procedure in the first paragraph should free that.

[andrew.morris1]

It is possible for the clutch plate to stick to the flywheel (rust) if it has not been used for a while and is damp. In this situation you can sometimes free it by starting the engine (in top gear, braked and chocked) with your foot on the clutch, or jacking up the wheels clear of the ground, start engine in top gear, disengage clutch and apply brakes.

But it does sound as if there is another issue in this case. If the clutch has recently been worked on there are other possibilities. As suggested, the clutch plate may be in backwards, or may be the wrong plate. More likely - if I remember rightly, you have a three finger pressure plate. These fingers are adjustable, and if one is maladjusted, it will never disengage. They need to be at exactly the same height from the flywheel after the pressure plate is tightened.

ANother possibility is the spigot bush has seized - the procedure in the first paragraph should free that.Thanks.