2006 Puma electrics

[oldyella 76]

Mate of mine has just bought a defer 2006 2.4 110 in Q.land and is driving it home now. I rang him to see how he is going and he said that the fuel gauge has stopped working, the air conditioner has stopped and the drivers window won't operate but the left hand side will . He is in Echuca at the moment and wants to bring it around for me to look at.
Any clues as where to look, as I would have thought that if both windows did not operate it might make sense. There must be some connection or fuse there that has a fault.
Thanks Lindsay.

[one_iota]

I'm not an auto electrician but....

Looking at the wiring diagrams I'd put my money on an loose earth as the source of the problem. Header Earth K108 is shared by those three among other things. (I don't know where that lives.....it could be behind the dash). There is also a split in the system between the winders LH and RH that could explain one side working and not the other.

If it was mine I wouldn't be worrying too much and I'd be off to see my expert.

Hope it's sorted easily

[DiscoMick]

Pages 118-120 of my owners manual.
Air-con is F42.
Driver's window is F34.
Can't find fuel gauge. Try F20 illumination.
Fuses under steering wheel.
Good luck.

[Dorian]

X 2 for the earth.

Cheers Glen

[one_iota]

Hey Lindsay,

In the long and valuable tradition of AULRO: any feed back? How did it resolve?

[oldyella 76]

I looked at it , took the dash centre out and got the fuel gauge going, not sure how. Got the window to go down but then would not go up. Turned out a faulty switch. Driving lights was a bad earth. Air con, he took it to an auto electric and found the thermostat crook he thought, apparently the whole dash needs to come out. I will try to source one fo4 him he has also been told to get a new heater tap.
Thanks for all your help l have been a bit busy lately.
Lindsay

[oldyella 76]

Now chasing a heater control valve and the thermostat for the defer. The problem was that the heater valve would not close the water off therefor would not allow the unit to cool, the auto elec found this by clamping the heater hose. After clamping the heater hose, the cooling system ran real cold and could not be controlled.
Any thoughts on where to get the parts from? I have looked at Rave and cannot identify the thermostat or where it is and I suppose the dash will need to come out. Can work out the heater valve.
Thanks Lindsay.

[DiscoMick]

Is this what you are looking for? This is on our 2009 Defender, so I'm not sure if it is the same as yours.
There is a slide behind the white unit, operated by the rotary dial on the dash.
It's on the passenger side near the firewall. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/76.jpg

[SSmith]

As Mick says for the heater tap. They drip from the tap aswell. Ive just replaced mine with commodore one for about 1/5th the price.

It incorporates the theostat basically by adjusting flow rate of warm coolant through the system

As far as the AC search TX valve or expansion valve is probably what the autoelec is referring to

[POD]

This is an old thread so things may have already been sorted but...the heater valve not shutting off is a matter of adjusting the cable.

[austastar]

Hi,
I had this problem I thought, I checked the cable, the tap is shutting properly, but the heat was coming from the engine bay via the lack of contact between the fresh air inlet duct and the blower inlet.
It is in a tricky spot, but one arm down the mudguard inlet and the other down the side of it managed to get them to line up a bit better.
Cheers

[DiscoMick]

Yes, my position is similar.

[SSmith]

Considering their diagnosis method, clamping the heater hose, made it run cool inside the cab i think we can safely leave the ducting gaps out of the equation.

So as long as the cable is pushing the tap to full bypass - hard to the passenger side, then it must be a faulty tap failing to divert coolant flow properly.

Come to think of it, tried clamping the coolant pipe on your issues Mick?

[DiscoMick]

Considering their diagnosis method, clamping the heater hose, made it run cool inside the cab i think we can safely leave the ducting gaps out of the equation.

So as long as the cable is pushing the tap to full bypass - hard to the passenger side, then it must be a faulty tap failing to divert coolant flow properly.

Come to think of it, tried clamping the coolant pipe on your issues Mick?No, but it's a good idea. Thanks.
Now awaiting the arrival of a replacement valve.

[DiscoMick]

And the valve arrived today, all the way from China - very quick service.