Steering Drop Arm Conversion

[Beery]

Has anyone here converted their drop arm / pitman arm with the Gwyn Lewis kit or similar? Worthwhile?

It uses the drop arm from a Series 2 Discovery and a beefier drag link. Apparently it improves the feel of the steering a bit.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/02/401.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/02/402.jpg

[86mud]

I prefer the original defender drop arm with the cast steering stabiliser mount. I'm not a fan of the mount u-bolted to the drag link

[Beery]

I prefer the original defender drop arm with the cast steering stabiliser mount. I'm not a fan of the mount u-bolted to the drag link

Yeah, the u-bolt bracket is the only thing that I don't think is ideal.
I read somewhere on Defender2 of someone putting a couple of spot welds on the drag link so the bracket can't slide under high forces.

[uninformed]

Have a google/look at the bracket Maxidrive made for a steering stabiliser to drag link. Bolts on but better than 2 u bolts.

[Beery]

Have a google/look at the bracket Maxidrive made for a steering stabiliser to drag link. Bolts on but better than 2 u bolts.Can't find it. I'm not overly worried about the bracket but more about if it improves the steering at all.

[uninformed]

cant see anything on their website that states it improves steering. Only that it improves the drop arm/pitman arm from the Defender one with built in TRE to the Disco type using standard TRE.

[Beery]

cant see anything on their website that states it improves steering. Only that it improves the drop arm/pitman arm from the Defender one with built in TRE to the Disco type using standard TRE.The reports of improved steering are more from anecdotal reports by owners. But I suspect a lot of that comes from replacing worn out tie rod ends.

[uninformed]

The reports of improved steering are more from anecdotal reports by owners. But I suspect a lot of that comes from replacing worn out tie rod ends.

Yep, and the warm and fuzzy feeling of doing something productive on their LR. Not saying its a bad conversion, but id like to here some facts behind the improvement??

Im not a fan of jam nuts on the TRE and those SUMO bars being solid are just overkill. I know im a MAxidrive fan boy, but IMO their arm a better design, might not be quiet as strong but still well strong enough given what they are attached to. ANd a local product.... a dying breed in this country

[Beery]

Yep, and the warm and fuzzy feeling of doing something productive on their LR. Not saying its a bad conversion, but id like to here some facts behind the improvement??

Im not a fan of jam nuts on the TRE and those SUMO bars being solid are just overkill. I know im a MAxidrive fan boy, but IMO their arm a better design, might not be quiet as strong but still well strong enough given what they are attached to. ANd a local product.... a dying breed in this country

The facts behind the improvement are exactly what I'm after.

I thought Maxidrive were a thing of the past..?

[uninformed]

The facts behind the improvement are exactly what I'm after.

I thought Maxidrive were a thing of the past..?

M R Automotive took over SOME of the products and production. Barry at Hi-Tough Engineering took over the axle shafts and drive flanges. He had been the right hand man at Maxidrive for many, many years.

[Beery]

Right, gotcha. Just found the Maxidrive stuff on MR's website. Thanks for that

[Wicks89]

I'm sure the maxidrive steering dampener brackets are great, but does anyone know if the disco steering arm is superior to the defender one?

I've been contemplating the Gwynn Lewis kit too, it appeals to my spatial reasoning and looks to be a superior arrangement.

[Red90]

It just make servicing easier. There is no change in the steering. It is simply changing to a normal Disco 1 or RRC front pitman and drag link.

[uninformed]

The only thing I thought may have made a difference is the goose neck on the end of the drag link MAY want to "roll" about as its not being pushed in a direct line, if that makes sense. Obviously it cant move far and probably gets in a set position....

[Beery]

I think the stiffer drag link is supposed to make the main difference. But I doubt it'd make any difference unless you've enormous tyres or a very heavy front end.
Like Red90 said, the drop arm change just makes replacing the ball joint a whole lot easier from what I can see.

[Colin]

It is just standard discovery eqipment.
The biggest gain i reckon is servicability of the ball joint as it is no longer on the pitman arm.

Seemed to always be chewing out the boot on the old pitman arm because the steering damper induced a twisting action to the steering arm so as to pinch the boot.

[patclan]

It is just standard discovery eqipment.
The biggest gain i reckon is servicability of the ball joint as it is no longer on the pitman arm.

Seemed to always be chewing out the boot on the old pitman arm because the steering damper induced a twisting action to the steering arm so as to pinch the boot.

I am on my third pitman arm ball joint, the first one (original) lasted 7.5 yrs, I got it replaced a year ago and it is gone again, I need new track rod ends also, so instead of replacing I am doing the conversion, that way if it goes again I just replace an end on the rod.

Going with the Terafirma TF255 bars for the disco 2, and I have bought an arm for the disco also, not going to do this one myself as I have heard getting the steering arm off is a nightmare. But once done serviceing should be a doddle if it goes again.

If there is an improvement to the steering then thats a bonus, but at least I will have HD rods now.

I will let you know :-)

[jbe]

I'm looking into the same conversion at the moment. GL just told me that they were not willing to deduct the VAT from their sales price and I also don't overly like the steering damper bracket design. Therefore, I will go ahead with the MD track rod and bracket.