View Full Version : wiring up a winch
crump
9th March 2006, 03:39 PM
Found a cheap winch, and want to know whats involved in wiring it up yourself.Is it a job for a knob??? :?:
loanrangie
9th March 2006, 05:10 PM
Hey crump,i'm in the same boat. Wondering if i should connect straight to the battery or maybe use one of those red cut off switches or maybe even anderson plugs so i can disconnect it when not in use.
crump
9th March 2006, 05:22 PM
Yeh,yeh thats exactly what I was thinking, what a dilema.(pssstt anyone know whats an Anderson plug??? I dont want to look stupid.) :oops: :oops:
disconut
9th March 2006, 05:52 PM
google it. Better explanation than I can give.
Trev.
Rosco
9th March 2006, 07:24 PM
Originally posted by loanrangie
Wondering if i should connect straight to the battery or maybe use ....................... or maybe even anderson plugs so i can disconnect it when not in use.
I may well stand corrected .. usually am :roll: :roll:
But I very much doubt Anderson plugs can handle in the order of 300A 8O 8O
Cheers
Rosco
Bushie
9th March 2006, 07:25 PM
Pretty simple to wire a winch up, only two wires (but big buggers) make sure you use good quality cable.
I wired mine through an isolator with both +ve & -ve back to the battery, not sure about the anderson plug though I think one that could handle the winch stall current (plus some reserve) would be a bit prohibitive size wise.
Bushie
DaveS3
9th March 2006, 07:45 PM
Warn use anderson plugs in their Portable winch series (hook into a haymanreese tow hitch)
From memory they were about 9000lbs so are of reasonable capacity.
So they must be out there.
Im looking for a large anderson plug but to use it for a different purpose (Portable LONG jumper leads https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ )
Dave.
loanrangie
9th March 2006, 07:47 PM
Anderson plugs are used on electric forklifts with big batteries , what would be the best way to isolate power to the winch when not in use ? Can you use those big big relay type solenoids that are used in simple dual battery setups ?
I just googled anderson plugs and they come in 350a models - 12 volt shop in WA.
p38arover
9th March 2006, 08:54 PM
Originally posted by crump
Yeh,yeh thats exactly what I was thinking, what a dilema.(pssstt anyone know whats an Anderson plug??? I dont want to look stupid.) :oops: :oops:
go to http://www.jaycar.com.au and enter Anderson as the keyword. Scroll to the bottom of the resulting page.
Ron
p38arover
9th March 2006, 08:58 PM
For Warn winch wiring diagrams, see these which I've had on my website for some years:
http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/thebeck...x/warn-sol1.pdf (http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/thebecketts/rover/pix/warn-sol1.pdf) (Physical layout)
and
http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/thebeck...x/warn-sol2.pdf (http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/thebecketts/rover/pix/warn-sol2.pdf) (Electrical schematic)
The first one will give you a layman's view of wiring it up.
Ron
drivesafe
9th March 2006, 09:17 PM
Originally posted by crump
Yeh,yeh thats exactly what I was thinking, what a dilema.(pssstt anyone know whats an Anderson plug??? I dont want to look stupid.) :oops: :oops:
Anderson plugs are probably the best high current capacity cable connectors where the cable has to be connected and disconnected on a regular basis.
Here's two of the most common sizes used.
http://www.traxide.com.au/and_2.html
loanrangie
9th March 2006, 09:23 PM
I thought it would be an easy way of disconnecting power to the winch when not in use and so some lo life doesnt pull the cable up and over the car hook up to the rear bar and bridge the pins on the solenoid box and cut it in half !
Would i need the sb175's ?
drivesafe
9th March 2006, 09:34 PM
Originally posted by loanrangie
Would i need the sb175's ?
I wouldn’t go smaller and there is a 350 amp version although the 175s should do the job but I don’t have a winch fitted so I will leave that for someone else to answer.
blitz
10th March 2006, 01:07 PM
A cheap alternative might be one of those big barrtery disconnects for a boat that are often advertised pretty cheap?
Blythe
Defender200Tdi
10th March 2006, 05:37 PM
Originally posted by blitz
A cheap alternative might be one of those big barrtery disconnects for a boat that are often advertised pretty cheap?
Blythe
That's what I did. Less than $60 from whitworths:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/06/73.jpg
Allows me to isloate the winch, or run it from either or both batteries. Also rated for 600A continuous.
Paul https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
crump
10th March 2006, 05:53 PM
Jesus H Christ!!!!!!! theres an octopus in the back of your Fender :!: :!:
Looks good though. 8)
drivesafe
10th March 2006, 06:06 PM
Hi Defender200Tdi, how much did you pay for the actual switch.
Cheers.
loanrangie
10th March 2006, 08:01 PM
And what is it called, cant find it on thir website ? found it, lots of goodies on here -
http://www.whitworths.com.au/main_listitem...attery+Switches (http://www.whitworths.com.au/main_listitems.asp?cat=123&Cat1Descr=&Cat2=313&Cat2Descr=Batteries+%26+Accessories&Cat3=469&Cat3Descr=Battery+Switches)
DRanged
10th March 2006, 09:34 PM
Hey guys just put an isolation switch in the active to the coils for fwd and rev this way you are isolating a small load rather than full current isolators. Also this stops the little buggers pulling your winch cable out and connecting it to your tow bar over your bonnet and roof and shorting out the connections on your socket on the bullbar. hence cutting your car in half!!!!
Dont worry they do it quite frequenly
Regards
p38arover
10th March 2006, 09:54 PM
Originally posted by DRanged
Hey guys just put an isolation switch in the active to the coils for fwd and rev this way you are isolating a small load rather than full current isolators. Also this stops the little buggers pulling your winch cable out and connecting it to your tow bar over your bonnet and roof and shorting out the connections on your socket on the bullbar. hence cutting your car in half!!!!
Dont worry they do it quite frequenly
My understanding is that this is an urban myth. I've never seen any pix published and if it had happened we know it would have appeared in nthe 4WD press.
On my previous RR, the solenoid box was under the bonnet, not attached to the bull bar like many of them.
Ron
RR5L
11th March 2006, 06:09 AM
Whether its myth or not thats where im mounting mine as well Ron, the other bonus is the control box wont disrupt the airflow before the radiator.
Defender200Tdi
11th March 2006, 08:39 PM
Originally posted by drivesafe
Hi Defender200Tdi, how much did you pay for the actual switch.
Cheers.
Hi Drivesafe
The switch was $59.95. There's a very similar one on their website listed as "extra heavy duty battery switch", current price is $56.95 by the look of it.
Paul https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
drivesafe
11th March 2006, 09:28 PM
Thanks Defender200Tdi.
I have a thread running elsewhere on the site and I have referred back to your pics, I hope you don’t mind.
Cheers
DRanged
11th March 2006, 10:04 PM
Its no urban myth just ask any long serving police officer who worked in remote outback areas before they started to kerb petrol sniffing it became a good past time once the fumes took hold.
loanrangie
11th March 2006, 10:48 PM
Dranged, whats involved in wiring up the isolator switch ?
Defender200Tdi
12th March 2006, 08:55 PM
Originally posted by loanrangie
Dranged, whats involved in wiring up the isolator switch ?
Wiring the isolator is quite simple. Just run 2 heavy cables (mine are 50mm double insulated), one from the positive of each battery to the isolator switch. The third pole on the switch runs the positive to the winch. Ground to the winch runs direct as normal.
I also have a split charge system and one of Drivesafe's SC40s set in 'Accessories' mode to protect the second battery. None of this affects the wiring for the winch though.
Another plus for the dual battery switch is if the split charge system ever craps itself, I can just set the switch to 'Both' and it will allow the alternator to charge both batteries.
drivesafe:
No worries linking to the photo. I have posted others on this site some time in the past showing the full writeup. If you want them again, just shout.
Paul https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
drivesafe
12th March 2006, 09:40 PM
Originally posted by Defender200Tdi
drivesafe:
No worries linking to the photo. I have posted others on this site some time in the past showing the full writeup. If you want them again, just shout.
Cheers mate.
DRanged
12th March 2006, 09:42 PM
I think people are confused with my isolation suggestion. If your control box (ie the relays for the winch ) is not on your bullbar but tucked away some where you only need to fit an isolation switch to the active supply that energises your relays for fwd or reverse.
I am not talking about isolating the full current lines to the relays from your batteries. It should cost you about $5.00 for a good toggle switch and about $5.00 for wire and crimps $2.50 for a 3 amp inline fuse holder. Even if someone plugs in a hand control your winch will not operate untill you activate the isolation switch. A good auto electrician will put you right.
Good luck
PCH
14th March 2006, 01:07 PM
With all of this talk about isolating control boxes or main battery power on winches I thought I better talk to ARB HO about current Warn winches they supply as I am about to get a Warn winch and don't want my D3 cut in half.
This is the story. Most of their range now come out with 5 pin sockets on the controller which are designed to make tampering near impossible unlike the older controllers. I hope this is true.
Anyone like to confirm why this may or may not be true?
Thanks
Chris
loanrangie
14th March 2006, 08:21 PM
Originally posted by DRanged
I think people are confused with my isolation suggestion. If your control box (ie the relays for the winch ) is not on your bullbar but tucked away some where you only need to fit an isolation switch to the active supply that energises your relays for fwd or reverse.
I am not talking about isolating the full current lines to the relays from your batteries. It should cost you about $5.00 for a good toggle switch and about $5.00 for wire and crimps $2.50 for a 3 amp inline fuse holder. Even if someone plugs in a hand control your winch will not operate untill you activate the isolation switch. A good auto electrician will put you right.
Good luck
Thanks, i knew what you meant.
wardy1
14th March 2006, 08:32 PM
Chris, I work on the basis that the crooks and smart arses of this world are always at least one step ahead of the real world. I'd get an isolator anyway... much cheaper than the excess on your D3! If you need someone who will do it neatly (mines under the bonnet and even I couldn't pick it at first..... very discreet! https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ ), let me know.
There is another thread here somwhere where i posted the fact that some local hoods had a go at this party trick and I sprung them..... It's no urban myth, believe me :evil:
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