Battery advice

[Konradical]

Hey guys, just wanted to get some thoughts on how I should approach a battery issue that has occured since the last service.

During the first service (Nov 16) they picked up that the battery was faulty. They were going to replace it under warranty, but because they are Land Rover Darwin, they didn't have one in stock and we're going to contact me when they had one. That never happened and I failed to follow it up.

Feb 17 I fitted a Traxide kit and have used it for about 15,000km of travelling without and issue, sometimes with the fridge just running during a normal week.

I had it serviced Feb 18 and since the service if I have the Traxide in normal mode I get the low battery warning when I go to start. Whilst getting a CV boot replaced, I asked them to test the batteries again and separately. Aux battery was fine and over CCA rating. Main battery was down and suggested a recharge and further tests.

The JLR "trained" tech tried to tell me that the dual battery set up was the cause of this. Also told me that I would have trouble trying to get warranty because of the set up.

Now my question is, should I bother pushing the point for a warranty battery without hard evidence that the Traxide didn't cause this or should I just find a suitable replacement battery.

Thanks for your time.

P.S. I am a heavy vehicle diesel Fitter and are pretty across how this system works and I have convinced a geeky electronics mate to fit the Traxide to his Navara who spent half an hour chatting to Tim about it, so personally don't think it's the issue, just want to get the consensus as to my next step.

[Eevo]

did he explain why he thinks the isolator is at fault?

[Konradical]

He babbled something about how it's always connected in shared mode and the aux battery would drag it down.

He wasn't sure what to say when I told him it only happens in normal mode.

He also tried to tell me the Redarc was the best one cos his mate has one in a old Hilux running two N70s and has never had a problem.

I would have thought the only reason the isolator would be the cause is because the aux was dieing and constantly dragging the main due to the Traxide failing to isolate OR the aux battery was of a significantly bigger size, utilising more charge.

[Milton477]

Sounds like the Traxide system is holding the failing main battery up. Without the Traxide system you would have been in trouble with a dead main battery. The JLR Tech doesn't understand how the Traxide isolator works.
If they had already found the main battery to be faulty in Nov 16, how can they now change their mind? Traxide propping it up?

I'd be insisting on a new battery based on their Nov 16 findings as this was pre Traxide.

[Konradical]

But wouldn't the time since found and claim be an issue? I'm not sure how generous LR are when it comes to this sort of thing.

Is there a number or email I can use to ask this question?

[drivesafe]

Hi Konradical, first off, after you go for a decent drive, when you get home, disconnect the isolator from both battery positive terminals and see what happens to your cranking battery.


My guess is that your cranking battery will go south over night.


If you can, leave the setup disconnected and then go back to the dealership when you can, and tell them what is happening to the cranking battery, with the isolator disconnected.


Also so tell him there are over 4,500 of my isolators fitted to D3s and D4s and that my isolators have been tested by LRA at Epping, on their own vehicles and they do not interfere with the warranty in any way.


Also tell him, unless you get the battery replaced, as they had already told you they would, you will be contacting both the ACCC and the NT’s Consumer Protection Office.

[scarry]

I got this from the Brisbane dealer as well,when my cranking battery died under warranty.

I disconnected the neutral from the SC80,so both batteries were separated,they then did tests,and replaced the original battery with an AGM.

What they did say was correct though,if the vehicle only does short trips,the SC80 does draw current all the time and eventually the vehicle will end up with a battery not correctly charged.

This is not a fault of the Traxide system,or the vehicle,just the way the vehicle is being used.

[RHS58]

Asked dealer to test battery at 3 yr service.
Was getting low battery message.
Reported “ok”.
Asked was it load tested?
Answer “no, we pressed the start button and it started”.
FFS!!
1 year later at independent LR mechanics, battery failed load test.
Obviously kept alive by the Traxide DBS and aux Optima.
Out of warranty by this time.

[Konradical]

Hi Konradical, first off, after you go for a decent drive, when you get home, disconnect the isolator from both battery positive terminals and see what happens to your cranking battery.


My guess is that your cranking battery will go south over night.


If you can, leave the setup disconnected and then go back to the dealership when you can, and tell them what is happening to the cranking battery, with the isolator disconnected.


Also so tell him there are over 4,500 of my isolators fitted to D3s and D4s and that my isolators have been tested by LRA at Epping, on their own vehicles and they do not interfere with the warranty in any way.


Also tell him, unless you get the battery replaced, as they had already told you they would, you will be contacting both the ACCC and the NT’s Consumer Protection Office.I remember reading something here about how they asked you for a product to test on their vehicles and of all that they tested, your product was the only one to have a positive impact.

Is this true? Is there any usable correspondence?

My biggest problem is my location. I'm 300km away from Darwin in Katherine and it's not a trip me or my partner do often, never mind during the week/their business hours.

It would just be handy to have something when I ring them to say I would like it replaced under warranty for these reasons and here is the evidence to back it up.

Thanks for your confidence though

[DiscoMick]

As a Traxide user myself, I bet if you disconnect the Traxide, the starting battery will die overnight.
They agreed there was a problem in November, so the Traxide didn't cause the problem.
Demand they replace the battery.

[RHS58]

It’s a long drive from Katherine to Darwin and back to replace a battery under warranty.
I thing I'd cut my losses and just replace it.
Unless you feel strongly about the principle involved.
It is probably worth a letter or email to the dealer and JLR but you’re probably wasting more time and effort.

[Turtle60]

It’s a long drive from Katherine to Darwin and back to replace a battery under warranty.
I thing I'd cut my losses and just replace it.
Unless you feel strongly about the principle involved.
It is probably worth a letter or email to the dealer and JLR but you’re probably wasting more time and effort.

Agree. Sucks but just not worth the fight. So question to those who have replaced the D4 battery is it a standard din88 and what is the recommended battery to replace it with ie landrover or aftermarket and which brand/ type if we can say that. The original has “Exide” on it.
Mine was giving low batt / start your car message not long after private purchase.

I ploughed ahead with an aux battery set up via a REDARC (as this was in the car) and ever since the optima has been propping it up. Land Rover Darwin are dead wrong. What’s worse is the low voltage cut out if 12.7 is simply not happening and both batteries equalising at 12.3 with nothing at all on load side of aux battery.

I have cycled the crank battery as per Tim’s advice but still sad. Unless of course 12.3 is normal???

Thanks
Turtle

[DiscoJeffster]

Well my Varta AGM cost nearly $500 so I’d be fighting for the dealer to pay.

[Turtle60]

Well my Varta AGM cost nearly $500 so I’d be fighting for the dealer to pay.

$500.....yep them fighting words. I retract.

[Guss]

What's with all these battery fails? I've just had mine replaced under waranty, under 2 years old...

[Discodougie]

I have a Supercharge in my d4, 900amps, full 3 year replacement warranty, not pro-rata. Have a look at their website.

[Russrobe]

I have a Supercharge in my d4, 900amps, full 3 year replacement warranty, not pro-rata. Have a look at their website.

Likewise, $229 i think they go for, it just outlived my Yellowtop Optima. which was $330...

[Konradical]

So randomly the park brake in the disco decided that it wanted to do a bit of Opera singing when engaging/disengaging, then get stuck on when at the local sandwich shop. When I rang Darwin Land Rover they wanted me to drive it to Darwin and leave it with them, without a way back to Katherine or even a loan vehicle in darwin. After ringing Land Rover Assist and manually disconnecting the park brake I had it towed at Land Rovers cost to them. They were most happy about this.

Funnily enough though I had booked a warranty date with DLR, before I rang the assist line, and asked them to replace the battery as has been previously outlined. Was told it would be $196 an hour for the techs time if they deemed it a non warranty job.

Luckily for me I followed Tim's advice and disconnected the traxide. The car had to be jump started in their yard this morning!! Sure enough a brand new battery is going to be fitted!

Can't wait to see what they say about this park brake now...

[Milton477]

Sounds like a good result for you then.
I'm confused about this park brake thing. If it has an "opera moment" & you manually release it, is the vehicle driveable then? Where have you been/what have you done that it is so out of adjustment?

[Ferret]

If it has an "opera moment" & you manually release it, is the vehicle driveable then?

Mine was not, even after pulling the manual release. One side was free, the other side was still jammed. Had to cut the brake cable to the passenger side to release the shoes from the drum.

[iannicki]

Had to cut the brake cable to the passenger side to release the shoes from the drum.

So, if you needed to do this out bush, and assuming you are carrying the right tool, does anyone have a picture (or a thousand words) to assist the mechanically challenged as to where to cut?

[Mike57]

I had this same problem. Passengers side free but drivers side jammed on. Cooked one wheel. No warnings or error codes and no real explanation. Cutting the cable would have been a solution but as i was under warranty I called LR Assist and they sent out a flatbed. 5 Days later I got the car back with a new actuator, wheel bearing and rear brakes. The guy did the work said everything was still attached but it was jammed up pretty well.

If I was out of warranty I would have got the bolt cutters out.

[Ferret]

So, if you needed to do this out bush, and assuming you are carrying the right tool, does anyone have a picture (or a thousand words) to assist the mechanically challenged as to where to cut?

Look at where the brake cable enters the wheel hub. It was cut in that vicinity.

It's a fairly hefty cable. Using the side cutters on general purpose pliers might take some effort. Didn't cut it myself, was done by the dealer after a tilt tray ride.

Fortunately (or unfortunately) my EPB jammed in my driveway. Hooray for LR assist.

[Konradical]

Sounds like a good result for you then.
I'm confused about this park brake thing. If it has an "opera moment" & you manually release it, is the vehicle driveable then? Where have you been/what have you done that it is so out of adjustment?By Opera moment I mean it was screaming as it was doing its thing to apply or release the park brake. Over the course of a week it did it on and off, I noticed it mostly did it if there was an angle or slight incline. They haven't rang me back yet, so not sure what was actually wrong. I actually doubt they will tell me anyway or they might tell me some "tech" explaination that won't make sense to me even though I'm a heavy diesel fitter.

The manual release is a tiny cable below the water tray, under the cup holders. Once you pull it, the park brake will (depends how jammed) release and as far as I'm aware requires to be manually refitted and a computer to reset it. Not sure on this last bit, but there are people on here who I'm sure will advise otherwise. The car be drivable at this point and allows you to get it to a dealership or something.

The car has been through all sorts of water, sand, mud and what ever else, but one would think it would be designed for this.

[Hugh Jars]

My battery carked it (10.8v) over the last couple of days, 16 months from new.
I also have the Traxide fitted (disconnected at the moment). The voltage has been going south for the past couple of months.
LR Assist sent out NRMA batteries to test/replace the main battery. This was done under warranty, no questions asked.
I asked who makes the battery, he said Apollo. Allegedly the 4th largest in the world (never heard of them). At least I get an unconditional 24 month warranty on the battery, which is past the vehicle warranty.

[drivesafe]

My battery carked it (10.8v) over the last couple of days
At 10.8v, the battery has most likely dropped a cell.

This is usually a manufacturing fault, and pretty rare these days.

[jwb]

Installed an Odyssey Extreme today. The original died suddenly. It had been getting sluggish and was being propped up by the Optima in my Traxide DBS. Turns over so much faster!