Discovery 2 TD5 Tensioner Pulley

[Kaaaiju]

Hi,

Quick question, are the britpart version of the Tensioner Pulley good? As i have heard mixed reviews on it compared to the O.E.M?

Thanks

[SPROVER]

Hi,

Quick question, are the britpart version of the Tensioner Pulley good? As i have heard mixed reviews on it compared to the O.E.M?

ThanksIt's luck of the draw with that.. you can get oem for not much money these days. I think around $120 from memory.

[Roverlord off road spares]

I would go Dayco for peace of mind or Genuine , it's your engine. Lets just say I had 6 aftermarket ones fail in one batch where the centre part exploded where the bolt goes through,

[sierrafery]

The very cheap ones supplied by Britpart and Allmakes are most probably made in China, the next level is bearmach which is a bit better but still weak, if you want a good one less than genuine search locally for Dayco APV2985, any store can get it to you

P.S. sorry Roverlord, we were posting at the same time [bigsmile1]

[AK83]

Hi,

Quick question, are the britpart version of the Tensioner Pulley good? As i have heard mixed reviews on it compared to the O.E.M?

Thanks

Put it this way:

mine(on my D1) lasted 1 week before it started to make noises.
Because it was new, I excluded it from the squealing fan belt problem that persisted for a while, targeting almost every other component, including water pump pulley!

After lots of stuffing about, I pulled the old one out from the wheelie bin(luckily I'm lazy and didn't put the bin out for collection!!) .. and the old one didn't make the noise(even tho it's ever so slightly loose in the bearing).

I'd say if you want to save $s don't use Britpart ... save even more money and your sanity and go second hand!
Otherwise any brand other than Britpart.

[trout1105]

You wouldn't think about putting a second hand serpentine belt on your engine so why on earth would you put a second hand idler pulley on it.
Get a New genuine part and forget about it for the next 10 years [thumbsupbig]

[Roverlord off road spares]

The very cheap ones supplied by Britpart and Allmakes are most probably made in China, the next level is bearmach which is a bit better but still weak, if you want a good one less than genuine search locally for Dayco APV2985, any store can get it to you

P.S. sorry Roverlord, we were posting at the same time [bigsmile1]
Dayco which should be the Genuine ones are made in Taiwan these days, but are superior to Chinese made

Bearmach were the ones that failed, after selling hundreds with out problems , the last batch failed, so no more. I think they must have sourced them from another manufacturer to the earlier batches. Unfortunately customers want cheaper and cheaper these days so this is the outcome
here's one after a mere 1000kms.
137565

[Kaaaiju]

OK, thanks for the replies, i will have to shop for an OEM and try that thanks

[biggin]

Is the original problem with the pulley, the bearing or the tensioner? If just the bearing, it'll cost you about $12 from bearing service.

[mrb505]

Is the original problem with the pulley, the bearing or the tensioner? If just the bearing, it'll cost you about $12 from bearing service.

Sounds easy but you have to drill the rivets out to seperate the pulley then re-rivet the pulley half’s if your just replacing the bearing. Probably time for a new tensioner if the bearing is worn.

[Bazzle218]

Shoot me down: I removed bearing covers cleaned and greased and put covers back on. Over 1000 klms nil noise from bearing or issues, just don't over grease. Also used scribe to pop the dust covers nil damage to them.

[biggin]

Sounds easy but you have to drill the rivets out to seperate the pulley then re-rivet the pulley half’s if your just replacing the bearing. Probably time for a new tensioner if the bearing is worn.

Ah yes, it's all coming back. It was the idler I replaced the bearing on. With the tensioner I replaced the pulley which obviously came with a bearing. Still pretty cheap though.

[donh54]

OK, thanks for the replies, i will have to shop for an OEM and try that thanks

Get a quote from Mario/Heather (Roverlord). Quicker, and probably cheaper than OEM! [thumbsupbig]

[mrb505]

Check your fan bearing too while the belt is off I recently bought another D2 TD5 that was making a fair rumble

[bob10]

Shoot me down: I removed bearing covers cleaned and greased and put covers back on. Over 1000 klms nil noise from bearing or issues, just don't over grease. Also used scribe to pop the dust covers nil damage to them.

Greasing the idler bearings is part of my maintenance routine each oil change. However, if I feel a resistance when turning the bearing in hand, I change the bearing. Your choice of bearing, SKF etc.. At the moment I have a squeak when shutting down, panicked a bit when I thought it may be the harmonic balancer, but got down & dirty & found it to be the tensioner bearing. For the life of me I can't remember if the tensioner pulley bolt is left or right handed. The mysteries of life.

[Kaaaiju]

OK, i checked the vicous fan bearings and seems alright, just the belt was squealing and i changed the belt and it was ok

[Bazzle218]

Greasing the idler bearings is part of my maintenance routine each oil change. However, if I feel a resistance when turning the bearing in hand, I change the bearing. Your choice of bearing, SKF etc.. At the moment I have a squeak when shutting down, panicked a bit when I thought it may be the harmonic balancer, but got down & dirty & found it to be the tensioner bearing. For the life of me I can't remember if the tensioner pulley bolt is left or right handed. The mysteries of life.

Tensioner Bearing bolt is left handed thread. from what i recall

[DiscoDiscoMan]

Greasing the idler bearings is part of my maintenance routine each oil change. However, if I feel a resistance when turning the bearing in hand, I change the bearing. Your choice of bearing, SKF etc.. At the moment I have a squeak when shutting down, panicked a bit when I thought it may be the harmonic balancer, but got down & dirty & found it to be the tensioner bearing. For the life of me I can't remember if the tensioner pulley bolt is left or right handed. The mysteries of life.

How do you grease the idler bearing?

[bob10]

How do you grease the idler bearing?

There are two idler bearings in the drive train. Remove the belt, remove the bearings, carefully remove the plastic covers , clean the bearings, grease same, replace the covers. Simple.

Have to say, I don't have ACE, and I'm counting the tensioner bearing. A bit vague, I admit.

[DazzaTD5]

I only use genuine..... more and more, especially with parts listing the C of O, Country of Origin.

Replace the serpentine belt at the same time..... Again I'm using genuine belts that are made in Germany, Italy etc etc... anywhere besides cheap **** china ones.

[Roverlord off road spares]

I only use genuine..... more and more, especially with parts listing the C of O, Country of Origin.

Replace the serpentine belt at the same time..... Again I'm using genuine belts that are made in Germany, Italy etc etc... anywhere besides cheap **** china ones.

O.of.e means nothing. If it says c.of e say uk it doesn't mean the part was not made in China or elsewhere and packaged in another country like uk. Got some many filters in the other day. Genuine Mann box says c of e Tunisia and the filter inside said made in Germany. Just like adverts saying UK sourced parts were and yes come from UK suppliers but product made elsewhere. It really needs to have country of manufacturer on packaging I think

[DazzaTD5]

O.of.e means nothing. If it says c.of e say uk it doesn't mean the part was not made in China or elsewhere and packaged in another country like uk. Got some many filters in the other day. Genuine many box says c of e Tunisia and the filter inside said made in Germany. Just like adverts saying UK sourced parts and yes come from UK suppliers but product made elsewhere. It really needs to have country of manufacturer on packaging I think

Yeah you are right, its such a bull**** lying con, thieving cheating lying scumbag manufacturers aiming to maximize profits at all cost.
But personally I can only look at the part and decide it looks cheap **** and then decide not to use it.

Which just gets me started on the "made in Australia with local and imported ingredients" ....now with the Australian made percentage thing, its clearer, the same statement and we see 10% is the local content. I say screw all the other countries, buy when you can 100% made in Australia

Yes.... I do realise that is NO Land Rover part

[twr7cx]

Sounds easy but you have to drill the rivets out to seperate the pulley then re-rivet the pulley half’s if your just replacing the bearing.

The difficult part is riveting it back together. They’re large rivets which most wont be able to do in their backyard shed. Bolts don’t seem to be an option due to clearance issues on tensioner components.

There are three possible pulley replacements listed by Dayco Nuline that I’ve found which may suit (the original measures ID 17mm x OD 70mm x 31mm wide):

EP239 (http://www.dayco.com.au/PartInfo.aspx?G=1787&P=EP239) Flat Steel 17mm 70mm 31.5mm
EP249 (http://www.dayco.com.au/PartInfo.aspx?G=1787&P=EP249) Flat Steel 17mm 70mm 32.5mm
EP295 (http://www.dayco.com.au/PartInfo.aspx?G=1787&P=EP295) Flat Steel 17mm 70mm 32.5mm

The advantage of these is that the bearing should be able to be pressed out and replaced if and when required.

Aside from the width difference of the one, I’m not sure what the exact difference is between the three - perhaps offset of the centre of the bearing?

The downside though is that EP249 price seems to be ablout the same as the whole replacement tensioner assembly. Not sure about the other two though...

[Roadrunner230]

I brought a cheap ass tensioner for a commodore once and as I tentioned it to put the belt on it failed. The left hand tread bolt had nothing in material to hold it so let go. Very poor copy of a Dayco. In the big scheme of things not really worth it.

[twr7cx]

I tried sourcing one of the above identified idler pulleys locally. No luck with anyone having one in stock. There was no point in me ordering one in as I needed to inspect it first to see if the bearings were in correct position (centred) and the right width to be suitable for mounting over the shank on the tensioner first. Pricewise they ranged from $70.00 to $90.00 which makes them, in my opinion, not economical as a Dayco brand complete tensioner is available locally for only $110.00.

[iPom]

I bought a genuine Land Rover one from British Offroad the other week and paid $135.