10p to 16p disco 2

[Chidz]

Hi all,
Long time reader, first time poster so be nice please 😝
I have done a bit of reading about this and had various answers, but I’m wondering if I could get a solid answer...
I have recently acquired a 16p motor (by accident) to replace my 10p which fell victim to the dreaded oil pump bolt failure while the mrs was driving.

Now that I have this complete 16p motor (injectors were removed by seller but don’t know which order to replace them in) what else do I need to make it work in the 10p body?? (If u get what I mean!)

I am also looking at blanking the egr?

Any advice would be much appreciated as I really want to get it going again ASAP

Cheers all

[discorevy]

Hi Chidz
If you don't know the order of the injectors write down the letters/numbers that are written on the top of each injector and also note which cylinder you put them into ( they should be green top injectors, do you know why they were removed?), use genuine washers and o rings when fitting them . it'll run without coding the injectors, but get someone with nanocom or similar to code them using what you wrote down
Would be worth while fitting a new water pump and oil cooler o rings as well as fuel cooler o rings ( all viton ) before refitting if you're planning on keeping it ( I take it you've already checked the oil pump bolt:-), also replace the vacuum pump oil return line and fit new clamps before fitting the alternator.
Once it's back in , it'll run fine as is ( will have a bit more torque due to the different designed internals and higher injection pressures) it would benefit from the eu3 intercooler.
Let us know how it goes
Welcome

[Chidz]

Hi Chidz
If you don't know the order of the injectors write down the letters/numbers that are written on the top of each injector and also note which cylinder you put them into ( they should be green top injectors, do you know why they were removed?), use genuine washers and o rings when fitting them . it'll run without coding the injectors, but get someone with nanocom or similar to code them using what you wrote down
Would be worth while fitting a new water pump and oil cooler o rings as well as fuel cooler o rings ( all viton ) before refitting if you're planning on keeping it ( I take it you've already checked the oil pump bolt:-), also replace the vacuum pump oil return line and fit new clamps before fitting the alternator.
Once it's back in , it'll run fine as is ( will have a bit more torque due to the different designed internals and higher injection pressures) it would benefit from the eu3 intercooler.
Let us know how it goes
Welcome

Thanks for that,

Yes they are green tops I have taken photos of the numbers while installing... yeah I do plan on keeping it after I’ve spent all this blood, sweat, and tears/beers on old “greeny” as she is known (she’s disco dark green, and yes definitely a she) yes if someone has a nanocom locally I’d love the help from someone in the know, and throw a few beers or whatever their way! The injectiors were removed because the head was recon, and he was trying to make money by parting out the injectors which no one brought in the end luckily for me he kept them with the motor in the end. It’s already had New o rings etc fitted so that’s good. Btw I’ve checked the bolt twice ;)

Anyone have a eu3 cooler for sale?? Also I need to change the fuel pressure reg I think so help with that would be handy also??

Cheers all

[djam1]

If you use the 16P engine with the 10P ECU it will run but I understand it wont work well as the injector pressures are different.
Might be best to get an NNN Ecu and use a EU3 map.
I think the MAF wiring is different as is the throttle potentiometer these are not insurmountable but things to consider.
In reading horror stories accross the world about TD5s not running properly it offen comes back to people changing things but not doing it properly.


Hi all,
Long time reader, first time poster so be nice please 😝
I have done a bit of reading about this and had various answers, but I’m wondering if I could get a solid answer...
I have recently acquired a 16p motor (by accident) to replace my 10p which fell victim to the dreaded oil pump bolt failure while the mrs was driving.

Now that I have this complete 16p motor (injectors were removed by seller but don’t know which order to replace them in) what else do I need to make it work in the 10p body?? (If u get what I mean!)

I am also looking at blanking the egr?

Any advice would be much appreciated as I really want to get it going again ASAP

Cheers all

[gavinwibrow]

DazzaTD5/Aztec 4x4 (member on here, lives and works in the Rivervale area as a LR type independent) is wrecking a few D2s and D2as at the moment, and will have what you need if you can't locate elsewhere. Ironically, as the reverse, he has just put a 10P in his 04 D2a and sold off the 16P.

[discorevy]

Anyone have a eu3 cooler for sale?? Also I need to change the fuel pressure reg I think so help with that would be handy also??

Cheers all

The 16 p fuel pressure reg stays with the 16 p head , but its worth changing the hose that goes from the reg to the front of the head if its even slightly brittle , as its a harder job with the engine in, the other fuel hoses are the same

[Chidz]

The 16 p fuel pressure reg stays with the 16 p head , but its worth changing the hose that goes from the reg to the front of the head if its even slightly brittle , as its a harder job with the engine in, the other fuel hoses are the same

I have the problem where my 10p fuel reg has 2 outlets but the 16p head only has one hole which means I will need to get a 16p fuel reg from somewhere.... I am replacing all rubber hoses and the radiator to prevent future problems.

[Chidz]

DazzaTD5/Aztec 4x4 (member on here, lives and works in the Rivervale area as a LR type independent) is wrecking a few D2s and D2as at the moment, and will have what you need if you can't locate elsewhere. Ironically, as the reverse, he has just put a 10P in his 04 D2a and sold off the 16P.

I did contact him for a few parts previously, even a motor and he said he had none available? I’ll try him again!

[PhilipA]

You will need the wiring loom from the Ambient Air Temp sensor and a filter box with the sensor , or buy one and fit it.
I don't know where this sensor enters the main loom, so you may have to change something there also.
Regards Philip A

[strangy]

You will need the wiring loom from the Ambient Air Temp sensor and a filter box with the sensor , or buy one and fit it.
I don't know where this sensor enters the main loom, so you may have to change something there also.
Regards Philip A

If the OP wants to upgrade to the full EU3 setup with ECU, then this will be required.
However not a necessity for the motor swap.

[Chidz]

If the OP wants to upgrade to the full EU3 setup with ECU, then this will be required.
However not a necessity for the motor swap.

Yeah I was thinking of using my original harness and the bolt ons including throttle body etc from the 10p so it would just plug straight in and getting a new ecu/remap whichever is required to use the green injectors?? Still unsure about it yet.

[Pippin]

Yeah I was thinking of using my original harness and the bolt ons including throttle body etc from the 10p so it would just plug straight in and getting a new ecu/remap whichever is required to use the green injectors?? Still unsure about it yet.
The throttle body (TP sensor) became a 3 track sensor from VIN 297137. depending on your VIN it may be a 3 track despite it being a 10P engine. The manual states that "Three track TP sensors cannot be fitted to vehicles previously fitted with two tack TP sensors." I think this is because the wiring loom to the throttle body does not contain the relevant wiring. If you have a two track TP you will have to program that into any new NNN ECU. which is a simple process with a Nanocom or Hawkeye. Irrespective of whether it is two or three track there will be no performance change.
Nick

[Chidz]

The throttle body (TP sensor) became a 3 track sensor from VIN 297137. depending on your VIN it may be a 3 track despite it being a 10P engine. The manual states that "Three track TP sensors cannot be fitted to vehicles previously fitted with two tack TP sensors." I think this is because the wiring loom to the throttle body does not contain the relevant wiring. If you have a two track TP you will have to program that into any new NNN ECU. which is a simple process with a Nanocom or Hawkeye. Irrespective of whether it is two or three track there will be no performance change.
Nick

Ok by that my vin is previous to the one stated so that means I have a two track sensor, which means I’ll need to acquire a NNN ECU, then I will be able to use my 10p bolt ons... correct?

[strangy]

Ok by that my vin is previous to the one stated so that means I have a two track sensor, which means I’ll need to acquire a NNN ECU, then I will be able to use my 10p bolt ons... correct?
I think some of the posts while correct are possibly misleading.

Firstly as Discorevy said the 16P motor needs no changes to run happily with your current ECU, sensors and electrics.
Get your new injector codes programmed (for smoothest idle) and thats it. Not essential but beneficial.

10P bolt ons- there is no throttle body.
You are looking at the EGR valve. Use your 10P unit or delete it.
Fuel reg- cant use the 10P must have the 16P thats it.

Now if you want to do remaps and chase more performance, you can still use all the sensors and have the MSB ECU chip replaced.
However, you can get better smoother results from changing to a later NNN ECU and then and only then, will you will need to consider throttle position sensors and ambient air pressure sensor changes.
Dont go buying new sensors and harness etc if your not doing the NNN ECU remap and upgrade.

[Chidz]

I think some of the posts while correct are possibly misleading.

Firstly as Discorevy said the 16P motor needs no changes to run happily with your current ECU, sensors and electrics.
Get your new injector codes programmed (for smoothest idle) and thats it. Not essential but beneficial.

10P bolt ons- there is no throttle body.
You are looking at the EGR valve. Use your 10P unit or delete it.
Fuel reg- cant use the 10P must have the 16P thats it.

Now if you want to do remaps and chase more performance, you can still use all the sensors and have the MSB ECU chip replaced.
However, you can get better smoother results from changing to a later NNN ECU and then and only then, will you will need to consider throttle position sensors and ambient air pressure sensor changes.
Dont go buying new sensors and harness etc if your not doing the NNN ECU remap and upgrade.

Thanks for smoothing that out for me. I’ll use the 10p egr stuff or just delete it which I was thinking of doing anyway (I’m sure there will be a post about that somewhere?)

So If anyone has a 16p fuel reg, msg me please! And I’ll need to program the new injector codes too... right. Getting somewhere! Thanks guys for being patient while I understand everything, as I’m trying to get it all fitted up by the end of the weekend!!

[AK83]

.....

So If anyone has a 16p fuel reg, msg me please! And I’ll need to program the new injector codes too... right. Getting somewhere! Thanks guys for being patient while I understand everything, as I’m trying to get it all fitted up by the end of the weekend!!

I'd say just get a new one from the reputable sources(eg. Roverlord).
This thing is such a PITA to have to remove/reinstall, you're better off doing it whilst you have access, and forget about it again for the next 100K+ klms(ie. life of the engine).

[Pippin]

I think some of the posts while correct are possibly misleading.

Firstly as Discorevy said the 16P motor needs no changes to run happily with your current ECU, sensors and electrics.
Get your new injector codes programmed (for smoothest idle) and thats it. Not essential but beneficial.

10P bolt ons- there is no throttle body.
You are looking at the EGR valve. Use your 10P unit or delete it.
Fuel reg- cant use the 10P must have the 16P thats it.

Now if you want to do remaps and chase more performance, you can still use all the sensors and have the MSB ECU chip replaced.
However, you can get better smoother results from changing to a later NNN ECU and then and only then, will you will need to consider throttle position sensors and ambient air pressure sensor changes.
Dont go buying new sensors and harness etc if your not doing the NNN ECU remap and upgrade.
Quite correct strangy. I should have said don't worry about the throttle body which i presume meant TP sensor unless you decide to change the ECU

[DazzaTD5]

Without reading all the posts....
The short sweet answer is.... Bolt it up it will work, 16P to 10 or visa versa.

----
Long windedness...
items worth doing while "new" engine is out.
*Engine mounts.
*Replace all the cooling hoses, thermostat
*Get all codes of injectors.
*Replace injector seals if injectors are already out.
*Injector harness.
*Cam cover gasket.
*Front cam round plastic thing oring.
*engine oil cooler.
*Water pump.
*Exhaust manifold.
*Drop EURO 3 cooling/exhaust bits.
*EGR blank kit.
*Serpentine belt tensioner and belt.
*recon/new starter motor.
*Fuel pressure regulator.
*once in get injectors programmed in.

[Chidz]

Without reading all the posts....
The short sweet answer is.... Bolt it up it will work, 16P to 10 or visa versa.

----
Long windedness...
items worth doing while "new" engine is out.
*Engine mounts.
*Replace all the cooling hoses, thermostat
*Get all codes of injectors.
*Replace injector seals if injectors are already out.
*Injector harness.
*Cam cover gasket.
*Front cam round plastic thing oring.
*engine oil cooler.
*Water pump.
*Exhaust manifold.
*Drop EURO 3 cooling/exhaust bits.
*EGR blank kit.
*Serpentine belt tensioner and belt.
*recon/new starter motor.
*Fuel pressure regulator.
*once in get injectors programmed in.

I have pretty much renewed all of those things, cheers mate... I’m not taking any risks with using any of the old stuff, I don’t want to have to do everything all over again... I have ended up ordering a new fuel reg too, so I’m not taking anything by chance! Just need to find someone to program the injectors for me then I think it will be a goer! I’m just waiting on parts to arrive then hopefully be going again by late next week! Thanks for the help everyone

[Chidz]

Hey all,

I’m nearly done with fitting everything back together!

Is there anyone out there who can help me, or knows someone who can program my injectors and if so how much it costs??

Cheers!

[Kaaaiju]

All you need is the Nanocom, get someone to help who's got one if you don't

[Chidz]

All you need is the Nanocom, get someone to help who's got one if you don't

Are they available to buy locally in Perth? Sounds like a handy thing to have.

[DazzaTD5]

Will program injectors for you, just send me a txt at some point over this long weekend with your AULRO members name and we can work out a time.

[Chidz]

Will program injectors for you, just send me a txt at some point over this long weekend with your AULRO members name and we can work out a time.

Ah thanks so much mate. I did abit more work today it’s starting to look like a vehicle again haha. The main parts done, it’s in, just all the fiddly bits to go now. A bit slower going that I thought it would be due to a few issues and but that’s life! Going to try do more tomorrow. Anyone know where I can find a rocker cover gasket in stock locally I was given the wrong one 😐 plus trying to find one at various parts places has proven difficult. Appreciate all the help so far!

[DazzaTD5]

If you need it today (Sat)... although they might not be open for the long weekend... Rovacraft.

Otherwise order it online from one of the good suppliers here Landybitz ?? The difference is the half moon at the back, its either small or big.

[kelvo]

Make sure you make a note of the injector codes and position (cylinder 1, 2, 3 etc) before refitting the rocket cover.

[DazzaTD5]

Ah thanks so much mate. I did abit more work today it’s starting to look like a vehicle again haha.

Arent you done yet?????? [tonguewink][tonguewink] geez I'm just finishing a D3 engine change

[Pedro_The_Swift]

yea, but the $$ per Hr is somewhat different[tonguewink][bigrolf]

[Bohica]

D3 engine change is easy when they pay you for it and you have done a few before.

[Chidz]

D3 engine change is easy when they pay you for it and you have done a few before.

Exactly lol and also easy to say when I have had limited times when I can tinker and don’t have a workshop or do it everyday heheh 😉

I had it running yesterday just changing my standard bumper to a bull bar and a couple of little things while I’m at it!

Rome wasn’t built in a day 😝