Right hand aircon vent not as cold.

[patclan]

Would anyone know why all the air vents on the right hand side, that's the drivers face vent the right hand center one and the foot well all blow considerably warmer air than the left? It is doing my head in, it has been doing it for around 3 months, the passenger side is cold but my side isn't. I even give up the driver's seat to cool down sometimes. This is a 2010 110 wagon.

Cheers.

[DiscoMick]

Could be a gap in the ventilation input between the inlet on the guard and the section into the dash. There is a thread about this. Run your hand down and feel for a gap.
Ventilation piping gap Puma Defender (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/258243-ventilation-piping-gap-puma-defender.html)

[Mark130]

I don't know how the Puma's work but on the TD5 there are two vent flaps (one drivers, one passengers) that allow fresh air from the cowl/ heater to be channelled through the air conditioner vents as opposed to going up to the windscreen vents.
If only one of these seals isn't sealing properly and your main heater vent isn't sealing you'd be getting fresh air mixed with one side of the air con cold air but not the other.
I'm sure the detail is different but just a theory.
Good luck

[patclan]

I don't know how the Puma's work but on the TD5 there are two vent flaps (one drivers, one passengers) that allow fresh air from the cowl/ heater to be channelled through the air conditioner vents as opposed to going up to the windscreen vents.
If only one of these seals isn't sealing properly and your main heater vent isn't sealing you'd be getting fresh air mixed with one side of the air con cold air but not the other.
I'm sure the detail is different but just a theory.
Good luckThis is sounding more likely, I have wrapped the air box Gap in the engine bay with some leftover dynamat, there was a small Gap but it is sealed now. I put the fan on full and moved the vent to external and the driver's side was warmer than the passenger side. So the left is pulling in external air and the right is getting warm air. Now I just need to find out where it is getting in, think I'm going to have to pull the dash off.

[DiscoMick]

Now I'm wondering if we have the same problem.

[Mark130]

I'm getting up close and personal with my heater as well. I've always lived in the warmth so I've never paid it any attention at all.
I never even really knew what the controls did.
I've found my main vent flap seal had completely perished - nothing left of it.
Unless it was 25mm thick at the top the flap wasn't adjusted properly so wasn't close to sealing. I'm still trying to work out that adjustment..
My weep hole in my inlet from cowl was totally blocked with dirt and old decayed Jacaranda leaves)
My blower isn't working. haven't tried to fault find that one yet.
And I doubt we would have gotten acquainted if I didn't remove my dash.
Just a pity it's taking me so long to get back in.

[patclan]

OK having a look at the diagrams I can't see how it would be different, it looks like on the Puma the left and right share the same outlet from the box. Looks like I am back to square one. I was preparing to pull the dash today, I am glad I didn't start that just yet. only thing I can think of looking at this is perhaps it is not seated correctly on the right hand side or something, but that would not explain the warm air.

137882

[DiscoMick]

OK having a look at the diagrams I can't see how it would be different, it looks like on the Puma the left and right share the same outlet from the box. Looks like I am back to square one. I was preparing to pull the dash today, I am glad I didn't start that just yet. only thing I can think of looking at this is perhaps it is not seated correctly on the right hand side or something, but that would not explain the warm air.

137882
So maybe you're back to checking for a gap in the ventilation piping in the engine bay. Basically, the body inlet and the piping may not meet properly on the front passenger side.

[Ancient Mariner]

Maybe short on gas

AM

[martnH]

I ...
I had this problem...and okay dont laugh
but what I did is I taped the middle vents. so now the cold air only comes from the "directed round-shape vents"....
the reason for this is to equalize the resistance so to speak. because if you dont, the driver side vent is the forth vents in line for cold air.
the cold air will go passenger side round vent first, then middle-passenger side, then middle-driver side...

the passengers side is always colder but this way, I got the most out of the aircon.

it works but I feel bad....this should not have happened to a truck of this age...

cheers
Martin

[DiscoMick]

I just close the driver's side vent so the air comes out the other three.
Will be getting it regassed, but first new tyres.

[HardCharger]

Hi,

I've encountered this uneven distribution of cooling once before, for me the problem was that the white heater valve thing in the engine bay was not fully closed. A quick push down on the linkage in the back and it closed the circuit and cold air was once again coming out from both vents.

I read somewhere that you can adjust the cable so that when you put the dial to cold, the valve closes fully but I haven't tried it yet. I just push down on the thing whenever I open the bonnet.

An interesting thing, I recently had to bypass the heater core as it was leaking and I have yet to change it but the A/C is much colder now. According to my A/C guy, the performance of the A/C is reduced whenever the heater core is connected to the circuit suggesting that the valve doesn't really fully close or something. Hopefully, some aftermarket parts maker can make a more effective valve and solve this issue.

I hope this helps.

[patclan]

I think there is something in the fact it is the furthest away vent so it is not as cold.
That said I think I have improved it heaps by sealing the gap between the intake from the engine bay to the air box in the dash, there was a large gap in the join in the passenger foot well, I had done the engine one with the air box but wrapped more dynamat around the air box Gap , especially around the engine side. It seems to be a lot cooler than it was but the left is still a little cooler, I can live with that though. I have the double din facia which sucks at the moment as while researching I found a double din that has closable centre vents which would be great.

[patclan]

Just an update on this, It has completely screwed up now, it is blowing warm air regardless of which setting, it happened after a cold snap and I used the heater, I suspect the cable opening the hot through May have come off or something. Time to get the dash off [emoji852]️

[SeanMurr123]

Just an update on this, It has completely screwed up now, it is blowing warm air regardless of which setting, it happened after a cold snap and I used the heater, I suspect the cable opening the hot through May have come off or something. Time to get the dash off [emoji852]️

Check the other end under the bonnet first, you'll kick yourself if it turns out to be that if you pull the dash out. It's just near the passenger side wiper.

[patclan]

Check the other end under the bonnet first, you'll kick yourself if it turns out to be that if you pull the dash out. It's just near the passenger side wiper.

Ha good point and idea, I pulled the dash out without reading this, fortunatley it is just the centre part I took out. But the cable is on and working fine, I checked the other end as you suggested, it seemed a bit stiff at that end but the switch movement does seem to open and close the valve, the valve has a bit of dried coolant on it, I am now wondering if it is the valve, may be worth changing as there is definatley heat geting through which would suggest water is getting through.
Now to find the part number.

[Dorian]

Here’s a link about the valve, might be of help. There is not much love for this valve it seems

DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - TDCi heater control valve options (http://www.defender2.net/forum/post630037.html)

cheers Glen

[patclan]

New valve arrived yesterday, $36 deivered from China, gave it a quick test with air and the tap closes pretty tight so should be no hot water going through when it's on hopefully..

[patclan]

Quick update, I installed the new valve. Removed the hoses, 2 screws, a bolt and the cable and it was off. The new one is on and working, I am getting no heat in the cab when it is on cold.

So I have fixed one issue - the heat coming in. But I have no aircon, probably been like that for a while but couldn't tell with all the heat. I will get it regassed now before I venture into anything more expensive.

Cheers

[DiscoMick]

Quick update, I installed the new valve. Removed the hoses, 2 screws, a bolt and the cable and it was off. The new one is on and working, I am getting no heat in the cab when it is on cold.

So I have fixed one issue - the heat coming in. But I have no aircon, probably been like that for a while but couldn't tell with all the heat. I will get it regassed now before I venture into anything more expensive.

CheersI think I have the same problem. The air-con has just been serviced and is very cold on startup, but then warms up as the engine warms.
Is there any chance of a pic of the valve in place please? I'm not a mechanic.
I'll order a new one.
Much appreciated.

[DiscoMick]

Never mind, I found it. Adjusted mine. Will see if the problem solved.
Can I ask which link you followed to order it from China? Was it the Peugeot-Citroen part or the Fiat part given in that thread or another link? Is it on Ebay?
Sorry to have so many Qs.

[DiscoMick]

Found it on eBay for $99 + $37 postage from the UK.
Mine seems slightly cooler since I adjusted it, although not especially cool, but it does drip when I switch it to heat, so maybe it's failed internally. Don't know. Need to put aside the cash from my next pocket money to order a replacement.

[patclan]

Found it on eBay for $99 + $37 postage from the UK.
Mine seems slightly cooler since I adjusted it, although not especially cool, but it does drip when I switch it to heat, so maybe it's failed internally. Don't know. Need to put aside the cash from my next pocket money to order a replacement.
Ok I got it off Alliexpress and it cost me $39.94 shipped.


Buy Products Online from China Wholesalers at Aliexpress.com (https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/0.html'spm=a2g0s.9042647.6.2.573c4c4dkJj8zL&orderId=93810463686886&productId=32845890457)

COOLANT CONTROL VALVE EXCHANGER REPLACEMENT For Fiat Ducato CITROEN JUMPER PEUGEOT BOXER OE: 6448.P6, 6448P6

Price: US $20.35 / piece

Seller Guarantees: ships out within 5 business days
On-time Delivery 60 days

This is a snapshot of the product taken when the order was placed.View current product (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/COOLANT-CONTROL-VALVE-EXCHANGER-REPLACEMENT-For-Fiat-Ducato-CITROEN-JUMPER-PEUGEOT-BOXER-OE-6448-P6-6448P6/32845890457.html)






https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/UTB8zXIXw0oSdeJk43Owq6ya4XXaY.jpg


https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/UTB8yNH5w8ahduJk43Jaq6zM8FXaq.jpg
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/UTB8uTCdxqrFXKJk43Ovq6ybnpXaa.jpg
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https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/UTB8wMWbxCnEXKJk43Ubq6zLppXaH.jpg
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/UTB8zXIXw0oSdeJk43Owq6ya4XXaY.jpg

[DiscoMick]

Ok I got it off Alliexpress and it cost me $39.94 shipped.


Buy Products Online from China Wholesalers at Aliexpress.com (https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/0.html'spm=a2g0s.9042647.6.2.573c4c4dkJj8zL&orderId=93810463686886&productId=32845890457)

COOLANT CONTROL VALVE EXCHANGER REPLACEMENT For Fiat Ducato CITROEN JUMPER PEUGEOT BOXER OE: 6448.P6, 6448P6

Price: US $20.35 / piece

Seller Guarantees: ships out within 5 business days
On-time Delivery 60 days

This is a snapshot of the product taken when the order was placed.View current product (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/COOLANT-CONTROL-VALVE-EXCHANGER-REPLACEMENT-For-Fiat-Ducato-CITROEN-JUMPER-PEUGEOT-BOXER-OE-6448-P6-6448P6/32845890457.html)






https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/UTB8zXIXw0oSdeJk43Owq6ya4XXaY.jpg


https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/UTB8yNH5w8ahduJk43Jaq6zM8FXaq.jpg
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/UTB8uTCdxqrFXKJk43Ovq6ybnpXaa.jpg
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https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/UTB8zXIXw0oSdeJk43Owq6ya4XXaY.jpg
That's great. Thanks. Much appreciated. Time to order one I think. Thanks again.

[DiscoMick]

Just ordered it for $US 28 including shipping.
That's a huge saving on the other price I got above through eBay. Must be cutting out the margin for a European wholesaler. Thanks again. Very appreciated.

[skidrov]

Slight hijack: I see you can get a SCV (or VCV, if you prefer) on AliExpress for a really competitive price too. However, while I'd take a chance on this tap, I don't think a SCV is worth cutting corners on...

[DiscoMick]

Slight hijack: I see you can get a SCV (or VCV, if you prefer) on AliExpress for a really competitive price too. However, while I'd take a chance on this tap, I don't think a SCV is worth cutting corners on...Yes, I wondered myself. Then I noticed the calves are fitted as original equipment by Fiat and Peugeot-Citroen. Is that also true of the VCVs?
I don't care where it comes from if the quality is original equipment standard.

[DiscoMick]

Today, while fiddling, I realised the mechanism for pulling the cable linked to the dash dial was quite stiff, so I oiled it and the cable while moving the arm backwards and forwards, so we'll see if that makes any difference.

[DiscoMick]

The cable now moves freely, but the valve still isn't closing properly.
Never mind as the new valve arrived today, all the way from China - quick service.

[AlmorWalton]

I have same problem. Did replacing the part work? I fiddled around with the arm at back and oiled the cable. It all seems to be sliding nicely. So next move would be to replace that white plastic thing.... interested to know if it solved your problem before I do so

[DiscoMick]

Haven't fitted mine yet. Hope this weekend.
I realised if I manually pull mine over it goes further than using the dash dial.
I think the plastic may have warped when the arm was stiff.

[AlmorWalton]

I have same problem. Did replacing the part work? I fiddled around with the arm at back and oiled the cable. It all seems to be sliding nicely. So next move would be to replace that white plastic thing.... interested to know if it solved your problem before I do so

[DiscoMick]

I have same problem. Did replacing the part work? I fiddled around with the arm at back and oiled the cable. It all seems to be sliding nicely. So next move would be to replace that white plastic thing.... interested to know if it solved your problem before I do so
Me too. I'll let you know after I do it.
After I oiled the lever, moving the lever over manually has taken it further than the cable from the dial took it, and made it acceptably cool, so it's a temporary fix, but I'd like to get it even colder.
In my case the air-con has just been serviced, so I know it can make lots of very cool air, so that rules that out.

[patclan]

It worked for me, stopped all the hot air coming in, but I don't get any cold air from the aircon, but after 9 yrs it probably needs re-gassed. But it definitely stopped hot air coming into the cab.

[SSmith]

Me too. I'll let you know after I do it.
After I oiled the lever, moving the lever over manually has taken it further than the cable from the dial took it, and made it acceptably cool, so it's a temporary fix, but I'd like to get it even colder.
In my case the air-con has just been serviced, so I know it can make lots of very cool air, so that rules that out.Pop the cable sheath out of its holder (black metal clip) on the tap assembly, pull it out a little further (to the passenger side) and pop it back in. Test with the dial and repeat till the dial pushes the tap all the way home.
Then test drive and see what happens.

[DiscoMick]

Thanks. I checked and the arm was already over as far as it would go.
Anyway, today the new valve was fitted during a routine service.
It's too early yet to say if the air-con will start to warm up after a drive of longer than 15 mins. Ill report back.
One interesting thing noticed was that there was quite a lot of crud inside the heater valve, which may have been preventing it closing.
So, in hindsight, I would disconnect the hosts and clean out the pipes inside the valve. It might be cheaper than replacing it.
Also, make sure the arm is well oiled so it will slide over easily when pushed by the cable.
The things we learn...

[DiscoMick]

So here is the new valve fitted. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181101/909d927916d619452e0e61dccbaa76d6.jpg

[DiscoMick]

First result from fitting the valve was disappointing, as the air-con still warmed up after 15 mins of driving, as the coolant circulating through the hoses got hotter.
Feeling frustrated I took it back to The Workshop (formerly ABS) in Moss Street at Slack's Creek, thinking maybe they might have to install a stopcock to turn off the hot water flow so the air-con could work properly. This is Qld, so we need air-con, but not a heater.
Instead the owner Michael got one of his lads to make some adjustments. I've just been for a 30 minute drive and I'm delighted to say the air-con stayed cold.
I'm not sure exactly how he adjusted it, but it's obviously important to properly set it up.
So, hope that helps.

[patclan]

I've just been for a 30 minute drive and I'm delighted to say the air-con stayed cold.
I'm not sure exactly how he adjusted it, but it's obviously important to properly set it up.
So, hope that helps.

That is great!
I got mine re-gassed today and hooray, I have aircon back and nice cold air. I will still go and oil the cable on the new valve as I think it sticks, I have to turn it from cold to hot to cold a few times before all the hot stops. The new valve has defintley fixed the hot air coming in so well worth the effort.
Would be interesting to see what fine tuning they did on yours, maybe the cable adjustment or something.

[DiscoMick]

Yes, I suspect he might have pulled the cable further out of the sheath. I had tried to do that, but it wouldn't move.
Interestingly, mine still makes some most about 10 minutes after starting, but is staying cold. I suspect the mist is caused by the coolant getting hot.

[DiscoMick]

Mist.

[AlmorWalton]

I have same problem. Did replacing the part work? I fiddled around with the arm at back and oiled the cable. It all seems to be sliding nicely. So next move would be to replace that white plastic thing.... interested to know if it solved your problem before I do so

Just fitted the part (well the mechanic did - cost me $90 - a bargain) and I now have hot, cold and, best of all, luke warm. Thanks for all the advice. What a marvellous resource AULRO is!!

[DiscoMick]

Yes, mine seems to be working well now too.
In future the first thing I would do would be to adjust and oil the cable and maybe unclip the cable and pull it further through, just to make sure it was going all the way over.
If that didn't work I would unclip the hoses and flush the inside of the heater valve to make sure no crud was stopping it from closing fully.
If that failed then I would replace the valve.
Oh, and get the aircon unit serviced, including a new filter for the compressor.
So that's what I've learned.
Add my thanks to those who have made it possible to fix this problem.

[patclan]

Yep agree, great resource and crowd thinking!

Thanks, mine is working great!

[mwbrydon]

I've been following this along and lurking in the background with a similar issue.

Just wanted to say thank you to the brains trust.

[DiscoMick]

I've been following this along and lurking in the background with a similar issue.

Just wanted to say thank you to the brains trust.Is yours fixed?

[mwbrydon]

Sure is! I just pulled the arm across and gave the cable an oil and haven't had a problem since.

Have bookmarked this page for future reference.

[DiscoMick]

So, as an update, the air-con was still only cool, not cold, after 10 mind of driving, unlike our Mazda which is an icebox.
As I've explained in my Members Rides thread, but will also mention here, I had a chat to the local air-con guy Darren at Jay Kay's Auto Electrical and Air Conditioning in Moss Street at Slack's Creek.
He said a lot of Queenslander just bypass their heaters because they are redundant in a hot tropical climate.
So today I got them to fit a valve in the hose carrying hot coolant from the radiator to the heater valve, so stopping hot water from reaching the heater. Cost was $179.
Fitting a valve with a tap means I can block the hot coolant, but if I ever go south in winter I can just turn the tap to reopen it for heating. So best of both worlds.
A couple of points to note:
Ordinary plastic valves are not good enough to handle hot coolant, so this is a Pirtek metal valve.
The original coolant hose was not cut, but an extension was added. This means if the Pirtek valve is ever removed the original coolant hose will still be long enough to reach.
So far I've only done a 40 minute drive but the air-con stayed cold so that's promising. Next week we drive Brisbane - Sydney so that will be the test.
It's interesting that Land Rover thought a generic Fiat Peugeot Citroen plastic heater valve would cope with 100 degree coolant until the 100,000 km warranty expired, but
Pirtek says plastic is not good enough. Sounds like cost-cutting to me.
Here's a pic:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181205/b0cfe2aa616e6f1805ff5137d305331e.jpg

[labrado]

So, as an update, the air-con was still only cool, not cold, after 10 mind of driving, unlike our Mazda which is an icebox.
As I've explained in my Members Rides thread, but will also mention here, I had a chat to the local air-con guy Darren at Jay Kay's Auto Electrical and Air Conditioning in Moss Street at Slack's Creek.
He said a lot of Queenslander just bypass their heaters because they are redundant in a hot tropical climate.
So today I got them to fit a valve in the hose carrying hot coolant from the radiator to the heater valve, so stopping hot water from reaching the heater. Cost was $179.
Fitting a valve with a tap means I can block the hot coolant, but if I ever go south in winter I can just turn the tap to reopen it for heating. So best of both worlds.
A couple of points to note:
Ordinary plastic valves are not good enough to handle hot coolant, so this is a Pirtek metal valve.
The original coolant hose was not cut, but an extension was added. This means if the Pirtek valve is ever removed the original coolant hose will still be long enough to reach.
So far I've only done a 40 minute drive but the air-con stayed cold so that's promising. Next week we drive Brisbane - Sydney so that will be the test.
It's interesting that Land Rover thought a generic Fiat Peugeot Citroen plastic heater valve would cope with 100 degree coolant until the 100,000 km warranty expired, but
Pirtek says plastic is not good enough. Sounds like cost-cutting to me.
Here's a pic:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181205/b0cfe2aa616e6f1805ff5137d305331e.jpgShould the hose with bleeding screw go to the other port of the heater control valve? I thought the bleeding screw should be at the highest point.

[patclan]

Should the hose with bleeding screw go to the other port of the heater control valve? I thought the bleeding screw should be at the highest point.

Yeah I think they are the wrong way, unless there has been change of design, would you not be passing hot coolant into the heater core constantly with them that way, except you have a tap now.
146576

[DiscoMick]

Yeah I think they are the wrong way, unless there has been change of design, would you not be passing hot coolant into the heater core constantly with them that way, except you have a tap now.
146576I hope not. They said its a one way flow. You've got me worried now.

[DiscoMick]

Is that diagram of a Puma?

[patclan]

Is that diagram of a Puma?

Yes out of the workshop manual.

[patclan]

Here is another

146583

[patclan]

I hope not. They said its a one way flow. You've got me worried now.
Hopefully they know what they are talking about, I am only going on the pictures.

[DiscoMick]

Just to add to this thread, I recommend you also consider the position of the hoses carrying hot coolant to the heater valve and returning to the radiator.
I found two hoses were pressed hard up against the plastic ventilation piping. As the coolant heated to about 100 degrees, heat would have soaked through the plastic and warmed the air in the ventilation piping.
I found with the air-con off the vents were blowing warm air after about 10 mins of driving. With the air-con on, the air still warmed, but not as much.
My air-con has been serviced, and blows really cold on startup, and my heater valve has been replaced, so I'm confident neither is to blame.
So, as explained in my Member's Rides thread, I've been experimenting with insulation on a return Brisbane-Sydney trip this week.
First I stuck silver heat insulation from Autobarn on the outside of the ventilation piping to protect it from the heat from the coolant pipe. This made a significant difference.
Then I stuck two pieces of CarBuilders waterproof insulation over the silver heat insulation, to further separate the hot hoses from the ventilation piping.
This means that the coolant hoses are now separated from the ventilation piping by two layers of insulation plus one layer of heat insulation. I spent some time lying underneath pulling the insulation right down over the lower section of the ventilation piping.
This has had the added benefit of blocking the gap in the ventilation piping where the two plastic sections do not come together properly, I hope.
The pics below show it looks a bodgy job, but I don't care if it works.
So, if anyone else has this problem, I recommend you investigate using insulation to separate the two heater hoses from touching the ventilation piping. It can only help.
Hope that information is helpful.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181216/282bd2da99755697899b5926b0352bb2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181216/95b9a9400374482ed7cefb63b4aef689.jpg