Opinions on best way to tie down a car onto tandem trailer ??

[goingbush]

I Got sick of hiring trailers &/or paying for towing & recently obtained a bargain tandem trailer, with a little work has come up a treat. It was advertised as a "Plant Trailer" and is a bit small to be used as a car carrier but perfect for my LW. I was going to make one & would have been 10mm narrower & 300mm longer but beggars cant be choosers.


I had made my own tandem trailer in the past , custom sized for my Kubota backhoe, I tied it down with 4x 2500kg binding straps onto the frame and every time I towed it the tractor had moved around & sometimes even up to a few inches sideways , and always had loose straps no matter how tight they were to begin with.

Ditto I have chain and dogged around Landcover axle housings and the Car has always moved about.

The local engineering supply sold me some "Load chocker" and said its what the towies use , I used it for 2 trips and has completely buggered the binding strap , despite the yellow protector around the tight bends.

But the car did not move

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/370.jpg

Since the last towing episode my imagination is like I have too much toe in now as the straps pull the wheels in at the front, due to my load binder winches being close to the apex of the a-frame.



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/371.jpg


However the car did not move on the trailer.

A few weeks ago I ran out of charge (during testing) only 5km from home so had to order a tow truck, They simply attached the car by putting a binding strap around the circumference of both front wheels . So to emulate this idea I bored out some boat rollers to 20mm & welded a bracket through the floor of trailer to chassis rail . & end of 20mm roller bolt through the side of trailer.

I have not test driven yet , but will tomorrow , Ive tried moving the car whilst on the trailer (2wd only) & it does not budge.
Only problem I can foresee is if I get 2 flat tyres but would be in the same boat no matter how the car is attached. You need to drive over the roller to load up, but that helps chock the car too.

As insurance Ive got load binders holding the ramps up against the Lightweight bumperettes , stops the car falling backwards.

Anyone see anything wrong with this setup ??

Also do you guys cut the excess length off the straps or just tie them up so they don't drag along the road ??

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/372.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/373.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/374.jpg

[alien]

For excess strap I roll the ends up same as shown in this video, I just do it closer to the handle.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=c7j_A1Bja_w&feature=youtube (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=c7j_A1Bja_w&feature=youtu.be)

I would also tie the rear down, either a strap over the wheels or direct to the diff housing to the trailer at a minimum angle.
It’s the forward movement under heavy braking that also needs to be considered.
It wouldn’t be hard for you to make the roller removable similar to the tow truck method,a guide hole ford the pin and a basic “L” bracket into the deck.
Have a close look at what the local tow truck use and what the larger trucks do.
I prefer to tie down rather than forward and rearward, car tie down.straps - Google Search (https://www.google.com.au/search?q=car+tie+down.straps&client=safari&hl=en-au&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjjoL_Bof_ZAhVB12MKHf06Az8Q_AUIEigC&biw=667&bih=375&dpr=2)

I wouldn’t travel with the ramps against the vehicle as they will rub as the suspension on the vehicle will still move.
For the ramps a fixed length of flat pined/hinged at each end works well particularly as it’s a 1 vehicle trailer.

[Graeme]

I don't know about in Vic, but AFAIK in NSW a trailer must be registered as a car trailer to carry a motor vehicle.

[rangieman]

That will work [thumbsupbig]
I would tie one front wheel and one rear wheel opposite sides at least[wink11].

The law for trucks is local 2 straps interstate 4 strap`s don`t know how this goes for mr average but you never know how you will be greeted by the law [bighmmm]

[goingbush]

I don't know about in Vic, but AFAIK in NSW a trailer must be registered as a car trailer to carry a motor vehicle.

Not the case in Vic, I just paid a $6.50 transfer fee on this one, Vicroads didn't even want to see it, no RWC needed either. My last Car trailer they inspected as It was new rego, & simply registered as "home made trailer"

[alien]

That will work [thumbsupbig]
I would tie one front wheel and one rear wheel opposite sides at least[wink11].

The law for trucks is local 2 straps interstate 4 strap`s don`t know how this goes for mr average but you never know how you will be greeted by the law [bighmmm]
Wonder what the definition of local is.
As most freeways and ring roads are still 80-100km/h it’s the same speed as interstate.
Why would you use less tie downs for the same force?

[Tins]

I don't know the regs, but I will say this. I once transported a car on a trailer by securing the wheels only. The car had coils springs and no dampers ( shock absorbers to the uninitiated ). The car set up a bounce that bloody near killed me as the mass kept shifting. These days I secure the wheels front and rear AND pull down on the car as much as I humanly can. The OP's setup looks pretty good, but instead of the choker, I'd get something made up that resembles what the tilt tray boys use. Far less destructive to the strap.

Wheel Straddle Strap (https://www.loadrestraint.com.au/products/load-restraint/tow-straps-car-carrying/wheel-straddle-strap)

[shanegtr]

I've got a few of these wheel straps from juststraps.com.au
137853
They work well secured to all 4 wheels. I now also make sure the strap ratchets are pulling the front and rear straps in opposite directions - ie I have both ratchets hooked to the central tie down point. When I first used them I had both ratchets pulling towards either the front or rear (cant remember the excat direction) and the straps where loosening during the journey. Since I changed it around the straps dont loosen at all.

[cjc_td5]

This is how I carry my 86" on the trailer.
The crossed straps onto the wheels holds it much firmer than tying down onto the chassis or axles. The vehicle moves around on its suspension but otherwise is a solid as a rock.

137863

Yes the straps can get pinched where they cross but I haven't seem any damage as such yet.

Chris

[Tins]

When I first used them I had both ratchets pulling towards either the front or rear (cant remember the excat direction) and the straps where loosening during the journey. Since I changed it around the straps dont loosen at all.

That is the single greatest cause of load shifting, and it astounds me that people don't work it out ( me included in earlier days ). Of course the straps should pull against each other, but who teaches it? ( No, Billy, I don't mean sailors. I know you get it. )

[stevo]

only advice I would give is ditch that U bolt as a tie down point main reason it is not rated and if you want to stick with it use a plate under the floor with rounded edges, you can buy rated lifting lugs on E bay and for the rear I would weld a lug to some 6mm square plate then bolt it to your floor with a matching plate under the floor, you could also weld the lugs to that angle iron on the front of your trailer.

I have a post that shows the Lugs I am using and lifting lugs have a safety factor of 4 and I am using 2.5 ton ones welded to a plate that is then welded to the chassis.

[goingbush]

only advice I would give is ditch that U bolt as a tie down point main reason it is not rated and if you want to stick with it use a plate under the floor with rounded edges, you can buy rated lifting lugs on E bay and for the rear I would weld a lug to some 6mm square plate then bolt it to your floor with a matching plate under the floor, you could also weld the lugs to that angle iron on the front of your trailer.

I have a post that shows the Lugs I am using and lifting lugs have a safety factor of 4 and I am using 2.5 ton ones welded to a plate that is then welded to the chassis.


Thanks Stevo, I saw the lug photos on your trailer build but can not find them on eBay , agreed my temporary Ubolt is dodgy, but does go through a thick angled member, can you point me in the right direction , or search term to enter into ebay



edit, no worries, found and ordered 6x ... cheers Don

[rangieman]

Wonder what the definition of local is.
As most freeways and ring roads are still 80-100km/h it’s the same speed as interstate.
Why would you use less tie downs for the same force?
Local is local as in your state , Interstate is interstate as in crossing the boarder[wink11].

[donh54]

That will work [thumbsupbig]
I would tie one front wheel and one rear wheel opposite sides at least[wink11].

The law for trucks is local 2 straps interstate 4 strap`s don`t know how this goes for mr average but you never know how you will be greeted by the law [bighmmm]

Mannheims Auctions yard in Brissy won't let a car trailer out the gate unless all 4 wheels are strapped down - part of their CoR regs.

The thing is, if all 4 wheels are tied down (properly), the vehicle can't move, despite what the springs/body might get up to. I've loaded cars as "top freight" on road train trailers, over some pretty dastardly roads, and they were always there at the end [thumbsupbig]

[rangieman]

Mannheims Auctions yard in Brissy won't let a car trailer out the gate unless all 4 wheels are strapped down - part of their CoR regs.

The thing is, if all 4 wheels are tied down (properly), the vehicle can't move, despite what the springs/body might get up to. I've loaded cars as "top freight" on road train trailers, over some pretty dastardly roads, and they were always there at the end [thumbsupbig]
Some company`s are anal like that[tonguewink]
Some moon`s ago i used to be a car park between the majors and not too long ago i had my own doing local .

[bsperka]

Some company`s are anal like that[tonguewink]
Some moon`s ago i used to be a car park between the majors and not too long ago i had my own doing local .Ahhj? What do you mean by "...used to be a car park...."

[donh54]

Ahhj? What do you mean by "...used to be a car park...."
Drove a car carrier! (Truckie slang). [bigrolf]

[gromit]

I've always strapped round the axles and ideally have two forward & two back. Problem sometime is the lack of tie down points on rental trailers......
I have a couple of short loops that came from a company I worked for. They brought in industrial sweepers and these were used to tie them down in their crates. Handy to put round axles so the good straps don't get covered in oil/dirt.
I always use rated Australian Std. straps. Some of the Micky Mouse straps I've seen holding cars on trailers (even on this forum) are a bit of a worry.

On a Land Rover it pays to release the handbrake rather than destroy the drivetrain as it rocks about on the trailer.

I do have some short link straps so I can tie round the wheels but the crossed straps looks a better solution. About to set up a trailer to take the Series I to Cooma so will play around with tie downs.


Colin

[Preston]

Up until 18 months ago I was a low loader owner driver and had need to carry vehicles from time to time. On your trailer the correct way to secure your vehicle is four straps over each tyre as you have done at the front. However I would not tie the strap to the bumper. All securing must be done below the suspension. I refer to the load restraint guide, all 230 pages of it.
https://www.ntc.gov.au/Media/Reports/(125D483B-53AC-83A1-7BBE-A88645111DEE).pdf

[goingbush]

Thanks for definitive answers fellas.

It would be interesting to see how many of the vehicles being towed to Cooma are tied down correctly.
Steve tie down loops obtained & welded on, thanks Mate .

Now tackling the brakes. Had override hydraulics on front only, Changing to 4 x electric , damn those hydraulic back plates , different bolt holes to Electric, have to remove before attaching weld plates !!