Non start D2 V8

[lardy]

Hi all,
What non start issues and resoloution story have you got?
My 2001 D2 V8 Auto was filled with juice four weeks ago and it would not restart.
So I changed the crank position sensor,fuel pump, Battery.
I have noted that after changing the battery the terminal is U/S and requires replacement.
Nanocom has done nothing for me at all, but luckily I also have the much cheaper icar reader thing that shows an alarm fault, and also a permament power fault (which I assume is the earth lead)
The new pump primed up it has a spark .
Any input appreciated,as the way its going I might tank it to the nearest tank training area as a live firing target.
Cheers Andy.

[trout1105]

Your profile says that you are in Greenough I am not that far away.
PM me your address if you want me to come and have a look or you can give Whyatts a call.

[ballbag]

In case you haven’t seen them, there are a couple of replies in the “what happened today” thread.

[lardy]

Gday bud,

Cape Burney
0475804078
I am off tomorrow if that is any good.........looks to possibly be an ECM wire according to a Barbagello mechanic (total guess of course!
Andy.

[lardy]

In case you haven’t seen them, there are a couple of replies in the “what happened today” thread.

Thanks ballbag.
I did look before and didnt see anything.

[trout1105]

Gday bud,

Cape Burney
0475804078
I am off tomorrow if that is any good.........looks to possibly be an ECM wire according to a Barbagello mechanic (total guess of course!
Andy.

I have to go to town tomorrow morning as I have a doctors appointment at 10.00 I will drop in on the way home.
I will bring my hydraulic crimper and some terminals to fix that dodgy terminal first up and go from there.

[lardy]

I have to go to town tomorrow morning as I have a doctors appointment at 10.00 I will drop in on the way home.
I will bring my hydraulic crimper and some terminals to fix that dodgy terminal first up and go from there.Trout old bean,
Done a job on the terminal and seems the bomb.
But come and have a gander in the morning maybe you can help me find the ECM.......

[ballbag]

Gday bud,

Cape Burney
0475804078
I am off tomorrow if that is any good.........looks to possibly be an ECM wire according to a Barbagello mechanic (total guess of course!
Andy.

Take note of which wire and report back so we can understand why it wouldn’t start.

Facts so far -
Has spark
Fuel pump new
Fuel pump primes
Unknown if fuel pump continues to run
Crank sensor new
Cranks but won’t fire

[ballbag]

Hang on, just re-read...... you mean she started?

[lardy]

Non start even though I repaired the battery terminal, the permanent voltage feed report noted on the icarsoft according to land rover leads us on to look at the ECM, earth cables, and ECM feed cables

[sierrafery]

Connect that Icarsoft tester and read engine speed while cranking, even if the sensor is new you must have the certainty that the signal gets to the ECU, i've seen twice V8s with new CPS but no rpm reading as it was a wiring issue on the CPS circuit

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Does the cranking [normally] register on the dash tacho?
and will that be from your sensor SF?

You'd think I'd have noticed before asking wouldnt you,,,[bighmmm][bigrolf]

[ozscott]

Don't recall it showing on tacho Pete.

Cheers

[AK83]

dodgy battery leads and car now won't start ...

Dould it be immobilised?

icar thing says alarm problem?
is the small red led lower/middle of the dash flashing(I think it flashes rapidly)?

Although in saying that, I think that if it gets immobilised, it doesn't crank at all.
Can't remember now, it was a while back when brothers TD5 had the problem which turned out to be a battery that was on the way out(low voltage).

Do you have the EKA code?

Does the nanocom access the BCU info area?

Another thing to check for(coz it's come up a few times) is the battery earth strap.
It should of the type that goes from battery neg terminal, to the body via a metal bracket a short length from the terminal .. and then continues on to the engine(on a bracket at the drivers side front corner).
make sure this is all in good nik too.

[trout1105]

I am wondering if the fuel system may need to have the air bled out of it, As I haven't had to change my fuel pump on my D2a V8 I don't know if this needs to be done on "lardy's" V8 as he said that he has replaced the fuel pump there may still be air in the system.
Does the fuel system need to be bled on the 4l V8's Just wondering if this may be the problem?

[bee utey]

I am wondering if the fuel system may need to have the air bled out of it, As I haven't had to change my fuel pump on my D2a V8 I don't know if this needs to be done on "lardy's" V8 as he said that he has replaced the fuel pump there may still be air in the system.
Does the fuel system need to be bled on the 4l V8's Just wondering if this may be the problem?

Thor injection is one pipe only to the injectors but the injectors themselves do an adequate job of bleeding air from the rail. It would just run roughly for a while before smoothing out. You can in any case find the Schrader valve on the fuel rail (somewhere down the back of the manifold) and check for fuel pressure. It can be reached with your fingers, close to the rear most inlet runners.

[trout1105]

Thor injection is one pipe only to the injectors but the injectors themselves do an adequate job of bleeding air from the rail. It would just run roughly for a while before smoothing out. You can in any case find the Schrader valve on the fuel rail (somewhere down the back of the manifold) and check for fuel pressure. It can be reached with your fingers, close to the rear most inlet runners.

Thanks for that [thumbsupbig]

[lardy]

Connect that Icarsoft tester and read engine speed while cranking, even if the sensor is new you must have the certainty that the signal gets to the ECU, i've seen twice V8s with new CPS but no rpm reading as it was a wiring issue on the CPS circuit

Indeed I always believed that when you turn the ignition on you see the rev counter 'flick up' prior to starting .....it don't.

[ozscott]

I have replaced the fuel pump on a d2 v8 and no bleed was required. I know others who did it and no bleed.

Cheers

[trout1105]

I had a look today and I am buggered if I know what the problem is.
The main +ive battery clamp was loose though and the leads were heavily corroded/covered in white stuff So hopefully that may be the problem.
The ECU looked spotless and we cleaned the contacts with contact cleaner anyway But that didn't sort it.
The diagnostic gizmo did say that there was a problem with the main power supply, So hopefully it is just a case of replacing the battery clamp and crimping new terminals onto the two positive leads.
It was nice to meet Old Mate Andy he is a really nice Bloke and I probably talked his ears off unfortunately But all is good as it was great to see so many landies all parked up especially the old ute [biggrin][bigrolf]

[sierrafery]

The diagnostic gizmo did say that there was a problem with the main power supply....
Then you should rule out that by doing the following:
1. Swap the two big relays at the bottom of the interior fusebox and check fuses F14 and F24 there
2. Swap relays R9(main) with R8(heated screen) in the engine bay fusebox and check fuses F1 and F2 there


IMO if the problem was the battery lead it should have not cranked in the first place

[ballbag]

IMO if the problem was the battery lead it should have not cranked in the first place

Agreed.

Already established car has spark and that timing is correct (leads and coils in correct order). So suggest follow up on fuel.

Yet to confirm fuel pressure at rail. Did you try bridging rollover switch?

And did you test for crank signal (rpm) with diagnostic tool (or taco?) to confirm crank sensor circuit integrity, as suggested by sierra? No crank signal would also mean no injector pulse (I think) so no start.

[lardy]

Okie Dokes!
I fixed the knackered terminal and cleared the fault.
Thanks for coming trout good work.
But anyway the only thing I found this morning was that the icarsoft reader said that the Inertia switch is 'set' does that mean its on?

[lardy]

Also the LED on the dash is normal and extinguished as you crank.
When trout came round the hazards went on for a while (think that was when we jumped the inertia)
Currently the downhill descent alarm sounds on ignition which is brand new.

[sierrafery]

For the HDC maybe you accidentally pushed the button check that.... as about the inertia switch i dont know what that "set" means but if it was tripped the hazards should have been on.... read the rpm while cranking that's relevant

[trout1105]

Well it looks that by fixing the positive connections on the battery has fixed the Main power source error that showed last time.[bigrolf][thumbsupbig]
Do the hazard lights stay on still? As Sierra said this could be indicative that the inertia switch may be faulty.

[sierrafery]

To rule out the inertia switch unplug it and bridge the pins in the plug(with battery disconnected)

[trout1105]

To rule out the inertia switch unplug it and bridge the pins in the plug(with battery disconnected)

We did bridge it out But we still had the battery connected, Doing it your way could sort this out hopefully [thumbsupbig]

[sierrafery]

If it triggered the hazards unlock once with the fob

[lardy]

For the HDC maybe you accidentally pushed the button check that.... as about the inertia switch i dont know what that "set" means but if it was tripped the hazards should have been on.... read the rpm while cranking that's relevant

Of course the first thing I did was to hit the HDC button....same with the hazards.

[lardy]

If it triggered the hazards unlock once with the fob


To rule out the inertia switch unplug it and bridge the pins in the plug(with battery disconnected)

Why bridge with the battery disconnected pray tell?

[lardy]

Having swapped out the relays in the engine bay I still have to have a crack at the one under the dash tomorrow.
Thanks again guys

[lardy]

After some renewed enthusiasm prior to towing the D2 out in the bush and torching it, I charged the battery and gave it another go.
The following faults indicated......not from the nanocom of course as that is proving as uselful as a marzipan dildo!
Fuel pump relay fault.....i jumped this to test it so that might explain that...I think the security is stopping it going ,,,.its immobilised, hazards flash but when I changed the key to the spare it did not happen so readily.
Next faults: Anti theft alarmserial link fault,air conditioning compressor power stage fault,battery voltage not pausible,permanent voltage supply fault.
Any ideas or should I just start pouring on the petrol?

[ozscott]

I suspect if it's the underdash fuse panel then you would get all manner of Nanocom faults. Cheers

[lardy]

Could you explain that some more?
I have been using the icarsoft scanner

[ozscott]

Mate if you have checked the usual suspects and she still spins and doesn't sound like it wants to fire I would be swapping out the fuse box totally. Ie the under dash one. Nanocom etc has an Achilles heel and that is that is assumes all circuit boards etc are functioning properly. Cheers

[lardy]

Would that give the external appearance of being immobilised via the hazards flashing?
Or are you referring to some other code that the icarsoft presented?

[ozscott]

M8 the external hazards flashing isn't what I experienced with my non start. I checked everything and even replaced fuel pump and crank sensor. Eventually I did the underdash that has the IDM (the so called intelligent driver module), and it started and has run like a dream since (I checked all fuses and relays on the old one before swapping in a good second hand one). I don't know about your codes but if it's throwing multiple codes and it all doesn't make sense it's likely to be the BCU or underdash fuse box.

Cheers

[Pedro_The_Swift]

The fusebox pics posted on here have been visually faulty, corrosion everywhere.

[trout1105]

Talk to Shane at Whyatts in Gerro, The chances are that he will have a decent second hand fuse board out the back and I doubt that he will charge you an arm and a leg for it either.
He is a member of this forum, "Whyatts".

[ozscott]

I still have my old one. Looks perfect. I suspect dry joint or crack in PCB. Cheers

[lardy]

To be honest i would prefer trailering it back to perth and put it on a diagnostic tool at barbagello's before going to Wyatts .....personal preference.

[lardy]

I still have my old one. Looks perfect. I suspect dry joint or crack in PCB. Cheers
That is interesting info cheers

[lardy]

Did the key tumbling trick to reset the imobilised state.....to be honest I plum forgot this...still no start but no flashing indicators.
Jumped the fuel relay so that might be this fault: fuel pump relay fault.....the new fuel pump has been now proved to work.
Anti theft alarm serial link fault.....hope I got over that with the key trick!
Air conditioning compressor power stage fault? Anyone??
Battery voltage not plausable.....we know this was a new battery and it was just charged and tested!
Permanent voltage supply fault....
Any thoughts?

[AK83]

Did the key tumbling trick to reset the imobilised state.....to be honest I plum forgot this...still no start but no flashing indicators.
.....

Are you sure you did it 101.1% exactly as it's described in RAVE?
When brothers D2 left us stranded, it took us a few fully fledged tries to get it to finally 'un-immobilise' itself.
His all started due to the battery not being as new as the previous owner stating it was supposed to be.

[lardy]

[QUOTE=AK83;2804621]Are you sure you did it 101.1% exactly as it's described in RAVE?
When brothers D2 left us stranded, it took us a few fully fledged tries to get it to finally 'un-immobilise' itself.
His all started due to the battery not being as new as the previous owner stating it was supposed to

I will have to look around the place and find the disc I am currently packing the joint up to move back to perth on a transfer.
Unless you have the sequence memorised, always open to learn.
Regards Andy

[lardy]

Ok some limited success today !!
The nannocom played nice, I have Aspergers and modern cars and accompanying diagnostic tools really mess with my mojo.
That is why I like living in my era.....series and Defender!
Anyhoo I spent the day trying to input the EKA to no avail, so simplified it and got confirmation. ...a result!
Still will not start, my last thought was that when I sent the missus under the motor to plant the crank position sensor she came out covered in engine oil.
I suspect that the sensor probe may well be contaminated as a result,causing the sensor not to work correctly.