Questions and more questions TD5 mods, preventative maintenance etc

[jezzarezza]

Ok, so I’ll apologise in advance for being a little lazy, long winded and too time poor to search for hours on end.

Where do I start... ok, I’ll set the scene. I’m not a mechanic (basic services is my level of experience) but my old man is. He’s not experienced with LR’s (diesel mechanic of 40yrs+ however) and lives interstate. I will be flying him up for holidays to sit, drink beer and tell me what this and that is and how to do it (I think we both win in here ;)

I’d like to order parts before the old man gets here so that I can just fit them with his guidance.

I want to do a bunch of preventative maintenance and a few mods (bank balance permitting).

Firstly can anyone recommend a LR mechanic with experience on disco td5’s, near Byron Bay (GC and lismore is ok, prefer not brizneyland)? I would just like someone to have a look at what I have and tell me what needs attention and upgrading/replacing. I think this measure will cover the preventative stuff. I’ve already found some posts here on this topic and cut and pasted info into my notes as well, so cheers for that [emoji106]. They will probably be pretty good at letting me know what mods to do but I was hoping to get a bit of a head start on that info so that i can ask them about the various options and get their opinion.

Secondly, mods, what to buy and where from?

1. I want to keep her cool and keep an eye on egr, oil pressure, engine temp etc. i found the link for the coolant level warning alarm on here, so that’s covered. I’d like to mount the accessory gauges on the drivers front window pillar if possible, nice small gauges and neat finish would be good if possible but any tips on gauge placement are welcome.

2. Exhaust. I may or may not do a ECU re-map in the future. I know there are conflicting views on how much of a good idea this is, and that it may cause issues but i’ll cross that bridge down the track. I know all about the exhaust manifold warping, i will cut the webbing as a preventative measure. Am thinking about ceramic coating and would like tips on what to do with the rest of the exhaust system (bearing in mind i may do the re-map). Rough guide on price and solutions would be great [emoji106]

2. Intercoolers. Alisport looks good, any other brands? Rough guide on prices and places to get them from would also be awesome. Thanks again.

3. Trans coolers. Same goes for this; rough guides, places to buy? I will do a fair bit of sand driving so i figure this is a good idea

4. Under body protection. Diff guards good idea? I will get front bar, rear bar, steering protection and fuel tank guard for sure. Any other bash plates to consider?

5. Any other tips on upgrades welcome.

I will do suspench and bigger wheels down the track so i will sort that at another time, no need for tips on that. I have CDL. Not fitting any other lockers at this stage either.

Thanks in advance legends, once again, apologies for the long winded questions. Much appreciation for your help and guidance

[whitey56]

Has it got any service history and what year is it , also how many ks traveled.
Whats your tool kit like.

[lyonsy]

what is it used for? what is it daily duties

[jezzarezza]

Has it got any service history and what year is it , also how many ks traveled.
Whats your tool kit like.

I haven’t got a detailed service history. Just bought it and he didn’t actually give me any. Drive shaft and rear main seal replaced were two things mentioned.

Tool kit is a chippies tool kit (16 years worth of gathering so not bad, but not a mechanics tool kit) . I have a few things to buy. Torque wrench being one thing, grease gun (and probs a few other things. I will be getting a few tools before the old man gets up here.

[jezzarezza]

what is it used for? what is it daily duties

Trips to Fraser, a few reasonably difficult tracks on the weekends/ long weekends/ holidays. Not rock crawling just yet

Mostly a daily driver to uni. Uni is the reason i’m not upgrading tyre size, suspension lift etc.

I will have a little bit of cash after selling my other car but not an unlimited pool! [emoji38]

[donh54]

Synthetic oil (I've used Nulon 15W40), red OAT coolant, Dexron 111 ATF, and Dot4 brake fluid. Make sure the viscous fan works as it should, and check the harmonic balancer is OK. Find and fix any coolant leaks as a priority, oil leaks next.
Any parts you need can be sourced from Roverlord (very active here, and long-time supporters of this forum), their prices are as good as it gets, and the service is outstanding.

[laney]

You say that you will be doing a bit of sand driving one of the first things I would do is electronic rust prevention I would also invest in a hawkeye or nanacom as all the mods in the world are useless if the car rust out or has a problem you can't diagnose just my thoughts.

[whitey56]

what year is it and k's.
To work on these trucks you need a good tool kit with 3/8 socket set, a 1/4 socket set is handy along with inspection mirrors and 2 couple of different size torches.
You need a floor jack and 4 good stands otherwise you will be doing it tough.
You need tools to get the viscous fan off, they can be purchased over the counter but i picked up a spanner at a flea market and ground it down to fit.

Have a look in the Good Oil on this forum or better still get your old man [he'll understand] to have a look most of your questions will be answered there.

I have only had my D2 for a year the previous owner spent over 10 grand in parts in 5 years and i have put around $4k [all for parts] which includes a Nanocom, that will give you a idea of what it will cost to bullet proof these things.

[jezzarezza]

You say that you will be doing a bit of sand driving one of the first things I would do is electronic rust prevention I would also invest in a hawkeye or nanacom as all the mods in the world are useless if the car rust out or has a problem you can't diagnose just my thoughts.

Thanks mate, was thinking about a few options re: rust. I think the electronic needs an earth when you garage it.

I should’ve mentioned I have a nano’ [emoji106]

[jezzarezza]

what year is it and k's.
To work on these trucks you need a good tool kit with 3/8 socket set, a 1/4 socket set is handy along with inspection mirrors and 2 couple of different size torches.
You need a floor jack and 4 good stands otherwise you will be doing it tough.
You need tools to get the viscous fan off, they can be purchased over the counter but i picked up a spanner at a flea market and ground it down to fit.

Have a look in the Good Oil on this forum or better still get your old man [he'll understand] to have a look most of your questions will be answered there.

I have only had my D2 for a year the previous owner spent over 10 grand in parts in 5 years and i have put around $4k [all for parts] which includes a Nanocom, that will give you a idea of what it will cost to bullet proof these things.

Cheers, i have a reasonable socket set. Probs need a few longer sockets for when the bolts are a bit long. Got 2 stands and a bottle jack. Around 2-3k is what i budgeted for the mechanical stuff, 4ish for the mods.

Had a bit of a look in the good oil, found some posts that were helpful. My old man is not super computer literate so i am going to have to find a way to get him that info (will probably be by telegram [emoji38])

[lyonsy]

1. I want to keep her cool and keep an eye on egr, oil pressure, engine temp etc. i found the link for the coolant level warning alarm on here, so that’s covered. I’d like to mount the accessory gauges on the drivers front window pillar if possible, nice small gauges and neat finish would be good if possible but any tips on gauge placement are welcome. junk the egr with a removal kit, fit the level alarm, if your tall enough fit the gauges ontop of your speedo pod thing otherwise just put beside the speedo and build a box that takes them a uhf, gauges you need are coolant temp, the rest are just nice to have

2. Exhaust. I may or may not do a ECU re-map in the future. I know there are conflicting views on how much of a good idea this is, and that it may cause issues but i’ll cross that bridge down the track. I know all about the exhaust manifold warping, i will cut the webbing as a preventative measure. Am thinking about ceramic coating and would like tips on what to do with the rest of the exhaust system (bearing in mind i may do the re-map). Rough guide on price and solutions would be great https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/60.jpg,i would not worry about a remap, exhaust leave at the stock 2 1/2in remove the std flex joint and put a truck style flex joint in $30ish, if you want it a bit noiser remove the muffler and cat under the passenger side leave the resonator at the rear, manifold best thing you can do is fit 10mm studs

2. Intercoolers. Alisport looks good, any other brands? Rough guide on prices and places to get them from would also be awesome.it has one just give it a clean, if you really want something bigger just get a d2a one

3. Trans coolers. Same goes for this; rough guides, places to buy? I will do a fair bit of sand driving so i figure this is a good idea good idea your looking $100-150

4. Under body protection. Diff guards good idea? I will get front bar, rear bar, steering protection and fuel tank guard for sure. Any other bash plates to consider. diff guards and rated recovery points are you main things, then id go rock slider's and a winch cradle for a winch if you cant afford a bullbar as well.

5. Any other tips on upgrades welcome.

full service and all fluids inc power steering and filter's, check tie rod ends etc, if unsure how long since last auto service drop the oil refill do a weeks drive then change the filter and fluid again the new oil in an old box not regular serviced can clean up and move old dirty and block the fresh filter so best to do this then put new filter, btw just if you can do it your self just run dex3 oil and change it every 20k and replace filter every 40k.
check power steering reservoir to pump hose for rubbing down at sump,
remove radiator and give it clean and clean the air-con condenser while it's out.
put a new top hose on it since your screwing in the coolant alarm old one may not like being undone and redone back up,
new thromostat,
replace all plastic coolant hose to rubber (they run from radiator to header tank)
drop the sump off and remove and check oil pump bolt has lock tight on it put more on and refit,
rebuild the front drive tail-shaft and double Cardin joint,
if it doesn't have it fit a center diff lock shiftier,
fit 235/85r16 tyres or get a 2nd set of rims to fit them too,
put a new set of springs and shocks in they will be sagged to bugger by now and may as well lift it, if you want a plush ride fit RRC kings springs 2in lift raised comfort they are 150lb to 250lb progressive springs,
check the fuel pressure regulator is not leaking if so replace it rebuild kits generally leak again not long after,
fit a new injector electrical harness,
matt wrap your bonnet so it doesent reflect in your face,
drop front headlinner down and reseal around the seam near the top of the a pillar on the inside and also redo the outside so it wont leak water on you,
if your tall cut the seat stop blocks on the seat rails off so you can move the seat back further and be comfortable,
make sure all the diff/gbox/transfer case breathers are connected and not blocked and they run to the engine bay at minium,
put hose's into the aircon drain tubes and run them so it doesn't drop on the tail-shaft or xyz switch
watch ebay for a cheap new xyz switch it will play up at some point-mine played up all the time untill my new arrived and not an issue since new one still sitting in glove box threatening the old one

edit
also get a starter solenoid kit and do it now their is one bad nut to do most people forget to put that one back it will jsut save issues latter on and their cheap.

[B]​but the most important thing is get a scan tool like a nanocom as its a Landrover it will chuck a wobbly now and then and 80% of the time you clear the code and it wont come back till it cracks the wobbly's again

[donh54]

All up, my D2 has cost just under 3 grand. That includes buying it, 2 new airbags, injector harness, and a bunch of filters, belts, etc. I reckon another grand or so, and we will be ready to head off to the desert for a while, then who knows where after that?

[jezzarezza]

1. I want to keep her cool and keep an eye on egr, oil pressure, engine temp etc. i found the link for the coolant level warning alarm on here, so that’s covered. I’d like to mount the accessory gauges on the drivers front window pillar if possible, nice small gauges and neat finish would be good if possible but any tips on gauge placement are welcome. junk the egr with a removal kit, fit the level alarm, if your tall enough fit the gauges ontop of your speedo pod thing otherwise just put beside the speedo and build a box that takes them a uhf, gauges you need are coolant temp, the rest are just nice to have

2. Exhaust. I may or may not do a ECU re-map in the future. I know there are conflicting views on how much of a good idea this is, and that it may cause issues but i’ll cross that bridge down the track. I know all about the exhaust manifold warping, i will cut the webbing as a preventative measure. Am thinking about ceramic coating and would like tips on what to do with the rest of the exhaust system (bearing in mind i may do the re-map). Rough guide on price and solutions would be great https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/60.jpg,i would not worry about a remap, exhaust leave at the stock 2 1/2in remove the std flex joint and put a truck style flex joint in $30ish, if you want it a bit noiser remove the muffler and cat under the passenger side leave the resonator at the rear, manifold best thing you can do is fit 10mm studs

2. Intercoolers. Alisport looks good, any other brands? Rough guide on prices and places to get them from would also be awesome.it has one just give it a clean, if you really want something bigger just get a d2a one

3. Trans coolers. Same goes for this; rough guides, places to buy? I will do a fair bit of sand driving so i figure this is a good idea good idea your looking $100-150

4. Under body protection. Diff guards good idea? I will get front bar, rear bar, steering protection and fuel tank guard for sure. Any other bash plates to consider. diff guards and rated recovery points are you main things, then id go rock slider's and a winch cradle for a winch if you cant afford a bullbar as well.

5. Any other tips on upgrades welcome.

full service and all fluids inc power steering and filter's, check tie rod ends etc, if unsure how long since last auto service drop the oil refill do a weeks drive then change the filter and fluid again the new oil in an old box not regular serviced can clean up and move old dirty and block the fresh filter so best to do this then put new filter, btw just if you can do it your self just run dex3 oil and change it every 20k and replace filter every 40k.
check power steering reservoir to pump hose for rubbing down at sump,
remove radiator and give it clean and clean the air-con condenser while it's out.
put a new top hose on it since your screwing in the coolant alarm old one may not like being undone and redone back up,
new thromostat,
replace all plastic coolant hose to rubber (they run from radiator to header tank)
drop the sump off and remove and check oil pump bolt has lock tight on it put more on and refit,
rebuild the front drive tail-shaft and double Cardin joint,
if it doesn't have it fit a center diff lock shiftier,
fit 235/85r16 tyres or get a 2nd set of rims to fit them too,
put a new set of springs and shocks in they will be sagged to bugger by now and may as well lift it, if you want a plush ride fit RRC kings springs 2in lift raised comfort they are 150lb to 250lb progressive springs,
check the fuel pressure regulator is not leaking if so replace it rebuild kits generally leak again not long after,
fit a new injector electrical harness,
matt wrap your bonnet so it doesent reflect in your face,
drop front headlinner down and reseal around the seam near the top of the a pillar on the inside and also redo the outside so it wont leak water on you,
if your tall cut the seat stop blocks on the seat rails off so you can move the seat back further and be comfortable,
make sure all the diff/gbox/transfer case breathers are connected and not blocked and they run to the engine bay at minium,
put hose's into the aircon drain tubes and run them so it doesn't drop on the tail-shaft or xyz switch
watch ebay for a cheap new xyz switch it will play up at some point-mine played up all the time untill my new arrived and not an issue since new one still sitting in glove box threatening the old one

edit
also get a starter solenoid kit and do it now their is one bad nut to do most people forget to put that one back it will jsut save issues latter on and their cheap.

[B]​but the most important thing is get a scan tool like a nanocom as its a Landrover it will chuck a wobbly now and then and 80% of the time you clear the code and it wont come back till it cracks the wobbly's again



Thanks for taking the time to write all that lyonsy! I’m taking pretty much all those tips on board.

I’m in 2 minds about the map. I’m not convinced it’s a bad idea unless you have a heavy right boot and enjoy wringing it’s neck. I like to keep the revs under 3k mostly under 2.5, around 2 for the first 5mins of driving after a few minutes warm up. The economy improvement is the main reason and if i’m being honest just a tiny bit more power would be nice too

Don’t want it loud but thought removing the rear might help a tiny bit with power and economy. 2a intercooler was also on my mind.

[jezzarezza]

All up, my D2 has cost just under 3 grand. That includes buying it, 2 new airbags, injector harness, and a bunch of filters, belts, etc. I reckon another grand or so, and we will be ready to head off to the desert for a while, then who knows where after that?

3k!!! Holy mother of hezus! I thought i was doing well at 6! Well done mate! Enjoy your trips [emoji106]

[jezzarezza]

1. I want to keep her cool and keep an eye on egr, oil pressure, engine temp etc. i found the link for the coolant level warning alarm on here, so that’s covered. I’d like to mount the accessory gauges on the drivers front window pillar if possible, nice small gauges and neat finish would be good if possible but any tips on gauge placement are welcome. junk the egr with a removal kit, fit the level alarm, if your tall enough fit the gauges ontop of your speedo pod thing otherwise just put beside the speedo and build a box that takes them a uhf, gauges you need are coolant temp, the rest are just nice to have

2. Exhaust. I may or may not do a ECU re-map in the future. I know there are conflicting views on how much of a good idea this is, and that it may cause issues but i’ll cross that bridge down the track. I know all about the exhaust manifold warping, i will cut the webbing as a preventative measure. Am thinking about ceramic coating and would like tips on what to do with the rest of the exhaust system (bearing in mind i may do the re-map). Rough guide on price and solutions would be great https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/60.jpg,i would not worry about a remap, exhaust leave at the stock 2 1/2in remove the std flex joint and put a truck style flex joint in $30ish, if you want it a bit noiser remove the muffler and cat under the passenger side leave the resonator at the rear, manifold best thing you can do is fit 10mm studs

2. Intercoolers. Alisport looks good, any other brands? Rough guide on prices and places to get them from would also be awesome.it has one just give it a clean, if you really want something bigger just get a d2a one

3. Trans coolers. Same goes for this; rough guides, places to buy? I will do a fair bit of sand driving so i figure this is a good idea good idea your looking $100-150

4. Under body protection. Diff guards good idea? I will get front bar, rear bar, steering protection and fuel tank guard for sure. Any other bash plates to consider. diff guards and rated recovery points are you main things, then id go rock slider's and a winch cradle for a winch if you cant afford a bullbar as well.

5. Any other tips on upgrades welcome.

full service and all fluids inc power steering and filter's, check tie rod ends etc, if unsure how long since last auto service drop the oil refill do a weeks drive then change the filter and fluid again the new oil in an old box not regular serviced can clean up and move old dirty and block the fresh filter so best to do this then put new filter, btw just if you can do it your self just run dex3 oil and change it every 20k and replace filter every 40k.
check power steering reservoir to pump hose for rubbing down at sump,
remove radiator and give it clean and clean the air-con condenser while it's out.
put a new top hose on it since your screwing in the coolant alarm old one may not like being undone and redone back up,
new thromostat,
replace all plastic coolant hose to rubber (they run from radiator to header tank)
drop the sump off and remove and check oil pump bolt has lock tight on it put more on and refit,
rebuild the front drive tail-shaft and double Cardin joint,
if it doesn't have it fit a center diff lock shiftier,
fit 235/85r16 tyres or get a 2nd set of rims to fit them too,
put a new set of springs and shocks in they will be sagged to bugger by now and may as well lift it, if you want a plush ride fit RRC kings springs 2in lift raised comfort they are 150lb to 250lb progressive springs,
check the fuel pressure regulator is not leaking if so replace it rebuild kits generally leak again not long after,
fit a new injector electrical harness,
matt wrap your bonnet so it doesent reflect in your face,
drop front headlinner down and reseal around the seam near the top of the a pillar on the inside and also redo the outside so it wont leak water on you,
if your tall cut the seat stop blocks on the seat rails off so you can move the seat back further and be comfortable,
make sure all the diff/gbox/transfer case breathers are connected and not blocked and they run to the engine bay at minium,
put hose's into the aircon drain tubes and run them so it doesn't drop on the tail-shaft or xyz switch
watch ebay for a cheap new xyz switch it will play up at some point-mine played up all the time untill my new arrived and not an issue since new one still sitting in glove box threatening the old one

edit
also get a starter solenoid kit and do it now their is one bad nut to do most people forget to put that one back it will jsut save issues latter on and their cheap.

[B]​but the most important thing is get a scan tool like a nanocom as its a Landrover it will chuck a wobbly now and then and 80% of the time you clear the code and it wont come back till it cracks the wobbly's again



Forgot to mention 2inch lift and suspension have already been done, also drive - tail already done

[lyonsy]

on uni student wages i would not worry about tune, tunes are fine if it gets more boost to burn the fuel and not just dumping fuel in, they are not like truck engines with 2 piece pistons with steel crowns that handle the hose being turned up they are just cast alloy and dont like big heat for long periods ie a truck will handle egt temps of up to 700 but a car/4x4 you want to keep it down below 550, also its a diesel they dont accelerate hard but they will hold speed very well if you want it to go fast get a v8 one.

with the exhaust you are best to leae the resonator in and remove the muffler, depending on condition of muffler will comedown to if you get more power or not, if its not buggered and collapsed you wont notice much difference at all apart from more noise

econmey will be more affected by tyre width and right foot and what stuff you put on it, keep skinny tyre's and dont put bull bars and rooof racks and you will get in the 10-12L put all that stuff on and wide tyre's and you will be landcruiser fuel economy range of 15L, best tip for driving is keep revs at 2500 or below and just let the torque converter do its thing

[whitey56]

After Lyonsy excellent write up the only things i can add are,

Check the small water hose under the rear of the ex. manifold [it could be blocked of already]
Replace the serpentine belt and repack the tensioner pulley bearing with new grease or replace if sus. Keep old belt as a spare.
Hoses rub through everywhere on these things that's what the mirror and torches are handy for.
Looks like you have a 10p motor [1999 to 2002] have a read about the head problems they can have.

1st thing is to fit another way for checking the coolant temperature, a gauge or an alarm don,t rely on the factory gauge it's useless.

[Lemo]

Hi Jezzarezza,

All great advice from fellow members!

Re more power,
Have you turned up the boost to max? This will give you a little more power but the only way is with a remap.
There’s plenty of info on the forum about this and who to use for this etc.
I have a stage 1 tune that was done using “new” tuning methods and not just dumping more fuel in!

A few questions to ask the tuner if you go this way are

What type of tuning do you use?
Can you tweak the maps to use the original sensors without installing boost boxes etc.

Have a read of this explains everything[emoji13]

DiscoTD5.com | Discovery 2 Td5 ECU Tech and Tuning (http://discotd5.com/)

There’s a few guys who do tunes

TD5inside, from what others have experienced he’s hard to get hold of

BAS I think are another?

Alivetuning

Storm tuning

Les Richmond automotive

I haven’t used any of these but other will no doubt chime in with there experience

Cheers Lemo

[Bohica]

Get a copy of RAVE, at the shop here or formthe usula, cough, cough, suppliers.

[jezzarezza]

lyonsy: Thanks again. Great info even more than I asked for, love it! Funny you mention steel heads, I asked on the facey page if anyone knew of a company that does custom cast iron heads for the TD5. No one new anyone, and everyone kinda made fun of me [bigsmile1] Still, would be awesome if someone did one. I'd love to see how it would compare. maybe when I finish uni I will think about an early M57 BMW 3.0L 6cyl:bat:[bigwhistle] [bigrolf]



whitey56: thanks for the extra tips. Yep o'l 10P alright, we'll see how we go. lets hope I get lucky. Deff's getting the low cool' alarm!![thumbsupbig]


Lemo: love your work mate, I'll have a bit of a look when I get the chance. I don't quite understand all the boosting, tuning, fuelling just yet.



Bohica: I went to the shop to search for workshop manual. Needs a spruce up with some info and options for a PDF. I mean who the hell still does CD ROM!!??:bangin::spudnikconfounded::lol2:

oops I'm new here and just found the emoji tool, Sorry Dave :lol2:[bigrolf][thumbsupbig]

[Bohica]

l maybe when I finish uni I will think about an early M57 BMW 3.0L 6cyl:bat:[bigwhistle][bigrolf]




What are you studying at Uni? I've thought of a 2.7L V6, manual of course. I went to print out a few pages at work, ended up sending all the pages to the printer. I managed to kill the print job 30% finished.

[lyonsy]

not steel head's for the engine although that would solve a lot of issues too, trucks have steel piston crown's and alloy skirt's with 2 piece pistons on full floating gudgion pin,

if your going to do an engine swap and want a diesel just go a duramax, but none of the driveline will handle it.

a company in Spain does a much better head then land rover ever made

[jezzarezza]

What are you studying at Uni? I've thought of a 2.7L V6, manual of course. I went to print out a few pages at work, ended up sending all the pages to the printer. I managed to kill the print job 30% finished.


Osteopathy (kinda like a cross between a physio and a Chiro) , 2.5yrs into a 5yr degree. The M57 is a bit of a beast, pre 2004 it's all cast iron but still has ecu (which I'm a fan of) 200kw or so, and more economical than the td5. There's a facey page (Land Rover bmw engine conversions) if you want to have more of a look. seems like they need work arounds for the ABS and a few other things. The engines are cheap too (I think I remember someone saying you can get them for under 2k)

my Disco is auto, I kinda hate it but the missus is learning to drive so it's good for now.

Haha, I have a printer at home. Prefer keeping on computer, takes a bit of getting used to but easier to key word search etc. put it on a tablet with a protective case and you're good to go. can even have on your phone as well

[jezzarezza]

not steel head's for the engine although that would solve a lot of issues too, trucks have steel piston crown's and alloy skirt's with 2 piece pistons on full floating gudgion pin,

if your going to do an engine swap and want a diesel just go a duramax, but none of the driveline will handle it.

a company in Spain does a much better head then land rover ever made

Yeah, my uneducated thoughts were that the two different thermo rates of the metals would wear the head/block seal faster, steel can handle being hot, ally not so much.

forgive my ignorance, you got a bit jargony for my level of engine education. I had to do some research. so the floating pin gives longevity to the bore, is that correct? why the are the two piece pistons better?

That V8 Duramax looks a beast!!

I want a Aussie stage 1 5 door eventually. the 4bd1T is awesome, I'm a sucker for a tractor engine:twobeers::arms::banana::clap2::spudnikbeani e::burnrubber::lol2:

[jezzarezza]

Oh and if you remember the name of Spanish company let me know, just in case the 10P lives up to it's reputation

[AK83]

Oh and if you remember the name of Spanish company let me know, just in case the 10P lives up to it's reputation

AMC (http://www.amc.es/aftermarket-eng/)

[Pippin]

AMC (http://www.amc.es/aftermarket-eng/)
Supplied by Turner Engineering UK
Nick

[AK83]

Locally, you can get them from SMS Diesel too.
On the face of it, a bit pricier than Turner, but once you take postage and GST costs into account, I doubt you'll see much difference in price.

[lyonsy]

Floating pin just lets stuff move about more naturally and instead of just relying on the little end to do the twisting the piston also allows it,
the 2 piece design allows more durable parts on the flame front with lighter parts for the skirt,
alloy heads are better for performance as they transfer heat better.

if your unsure with the head gasket and can con ya old man into it, just pull the head and redo it before it blows and you shouldent have any drama afterwards doing it ya self should be around $500-700 rather then the 3-4k for the head and if your doing a new head may as well do the injectors for anther 1-2k etc.

[rick130]

There is supposedly a Landy sympathetic mechanic around Ballina but I haven't discovered them yet, although I haven't really been looking either. [bigwhistle]

I'm in and around the industrial area there a few times a week so I'll ask the question.

[loosegoose]

lyonsy: Thanks again. Great info even more than I asked for, love it! Funny you mention steel heads, I asked on the facey page if anyone knew of a company that does custom cast iron heads for the TD5. No one new anyone, and everyone kinda made fun of me [bigsmile1] Still, would be awesome if someone did one. I'd love to see how it would compare. maybe when I finish uni I will think about an early M57 BMW 3.0L 6cyl:bat:[bigwhistle][bigrolf]



whitey56: thanks for the extra tips. Yep o'l 10P alright, we'll see how we go. lets hope I get lucky. Deff's getting the low cool' alarm!![thumbsupbig]


Lemo: love your work mate, I'll have a bit of a look when I get the chance. I don't quite understand all the boosting, tuning, fuelling just yet.



Bohica: I went to the shop to search for workshop manual. Needs a spruce up with some info and options for a PDF. I mean who the hell still does CD ROM!!??:bangin::spudnikconfounded::lol2:

oops I'm new here and just found the emoji tool, Sorry Dave :lol2:[bigrolf][thumbsupbig]




Had a 2003 D2 with 385,000 kms which i took across the Simpson Desert solo 2 year ago without lifting a spanner. Great vehicle.
Rick's 4x4 in Nerang on the Gold coast are very good.
Excellent advice here on this forum but there is one more thing I've found. The auto transmission flexible hoses to the oil cooler under the radiator are notorious for letting go spraying oil everywhere and leaving you stranded. where they connect to the fixed steel pipes are known to be faulty. inspect them or better to get them replaced.
Also I have a Lynx Diagnostic Interface only linked to D2's which is great. Now I have a D3 and this system has been upgraded to the Lynx Evo System so they are fasing out buying unlock codes for other vehicles. This didn't worry me as my D3 came with a Nanocom. Do your research and if you would like it I can offload it at a good price.

[bsperka]

Check if the alternator has a torx head. The only one on the engine I've found (to date!). You may need to add this socket to your kit.

[shack]

Check if the alternator has a torx head. The only one on the engine I've found (to date!). You may need to add this socket to your kit.Actually throughout the car there is a number of torx head screws/bolts, would pay to buy a set, and the head bolts are E drive from memory