One More Sleep......

[bemm52]

One more sleep to go[bigsmile][bigsmile][bigsmile]

this one is sight unseen and at the right price again[bigrolf] farmer wants it gone[bigrolf]

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

The day arrived and I picked up the car, its an odd one to me anyway, I'm hoping someone can tell me what I've got here I think its a 2a wide light but it has some odd features

All pretty normal, Holden conversion, hardtop is aluminium riveted and covered with canvas
139564 139565 139566


It has only one fuel filler in the middle of the tub that fills aluminium tank in tray behind seats
139567 139568 139569


Plates attached and Dutch glass in hardtop
139570 139571 139572plate right way up139581


Unusual (to Me) indicators and brake lights
139573 139574 139575internals 139576


different front dumb iron and spring mounts, has gaiters so I hope swivel balls will be good
139577 139578 139579


And five what look like Game rims spokes welded to rim
139580unfortunately they are cactus


Cheers Paul

[rangieman]

It has a military chassis by the looks of it [bighmmm]
S111 Grill[wink11]

[Cap]

Funky red seats, obviously no OEM

[bemm52]

It has a military chassis by the looks of it [bighmmm]
S111 Grill[wink11]

Thanks I thought it had some military history with NATO info plate on dash,grill could have been added later for bling[bigsad]
rego sticker on windscreen calls it a 1972 build....series 3?????

Also sites V921494P as chassis number which looks hand stamped to me stamping half the size of normal. Tried Calvin but can't get it to work with any of my vehicles at the moment

have started stripping it down,defiantly series 2 bulkhead and door hinges with cool hole cast into top hinge for mirror arm, windscreen has series 2 hingeing as well

maybe someone has cobbled together a car in the past and authorities issued a vin number like when they sight a new home built trailer.

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Funky red seats, obviously no OEM

If you want them thier yours[biggrin] it'll save me a tip trip[biggrin]

Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

Prob turn out to be an import not assembled here in Aus. Interesting....

[bemm52]

Prob turn out to be an import not assembled here in Aus. Interesting....

I agree Dutch hardtop glass and odd fuel filler location.....who knows (I'm guessing someone does[bigwhistle]) while removing fuel tank in tub looked for behind the door filler positions.

Nothing... no repairs to tub, or holes in tub wall behind seats ,for filler piping

custom hardtop top is really well made as well ( metric fixing bolts)

Cheers Paul

[Chops]

Looks cool, definitely an import of some sort. Did the chap you got it from have no info on it at all?

[bemm52]

No real info besides it was bought as is somewhere around Shepparton twenty odd years ago.
was a solid daily driver until electrics fused an auto leccey said it needed a complete rewire so owner just parked it up under a tree[bigsad] and Mr rust moved in[bigsad]

spoke to owner today and he had a look at it at my place (came off his fathers farm) and he said it had overdrive when he had it and every time he selected OD the speedo used to jump all over the place.😳

Hole in tunnel with boot is still there but no OD on gearbox[bigsad]i guess someone got there before me or I'm looking at things wrong.

Theres another series 2 on the farm his father wants gone under a tree again[bigsad] with a Holden motor in it maybe that's got an overdrive a well[bigsmile1]

have first dibs on it but it's his wife's and she's got big emotional attachment to it as she drove it to Cape York decades ago, will keep working on them as under a tree storage is a death sentence to an old Landy

Indicators and brake lenses appear to thread into housing that's Cool

havent tried to unscrew them yet as I don't want to damage lenses and don't know quiet how to do it softly ..............maybe Dutch globes hiding in there[bigsmile]

Cheers Paul

[gromit]

Looks like a Military Lightweight indicator

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/672.jpg


Colin

[bemm52]

That's them [thumbsupbig] but it's not a light weight, front guards have said indicators but generic trailer parkers.........as if where it came from front parkers weren't standard or needed

the plot thickens I'll keep the angle grinder at bay for a while

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Prob turn out to be an import not assembled here in Aus. Interesting....

Your guess seems correct Rod

139746

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

A few more pictures for anyone interested

139748 139749 139750 139751

huge Smiths heater hope fan works
139752 going to try and get hardtop glass cut to windscreen size139753

Cheers Paul

[gromit]

huge Smiths heater hope fan works
going to try and get hardtop glass cut to windscreen size



The heater looks like a UK one.
You'll only be able to cut the glass if it's laminated, toughened will end up as a lot of very small pieces.

The 37 Rhine Workshop was a British base.......

It's RHD so not Dutch unless it was converted.
Is there, or was there, a fuel tank under the drivers seat ?


Colin

[gromit]

Maybe send sign up for another forum......EMLRA - Ex-Military Land Rover Association (http://www.emlra.org/)

They might be able to work out some of it's history.


Colin

[bemm52]

Colin no evidence of fuel tanks under seats at all, and as I said before no fillers cut into tub either.
except for the one in middle drivers side tub that had been modified to fill added aluminium tank in tub.
The firewall is like cornflakes and so is the chassis so basicly getting whatever will be useful and salvageable off it.

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Went back to the farm the last vehicle came off today and secured this one for a bunch of flowers the missus brought with her from our garden[thumbsupbig][thumbsupbig]

140398 140399 140400 rego sticker says 1962 so 2 or 2a perhaps chassis appears good but for rust in dumb irons

this poured out of exhaust pipe on trip home so I'm guessing the head maybe rusted out
140401

Funky 60s speedo I'll defiantly keep140402 swing tailgate I also like140403 and 4 fuel tanks140404

140406 140407

over view of my section of back yard
140408 and landy collection140409 stripping of NATO truck well under way

Material on ground is to extend shed lean-to to house treasures

Plan is to strip and rebuild series 3 have a complete car, and then make a good sound 2a bug eye out of the other two.

Plus keep plugging away at my boat build, house maintenance , gardening as directed by head gardener...............................[bighmmm][bigwhistle]

Retirement is bloody hard work[bigsad][bigsmile][bigsmile]

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Getting stuck into tearing apart my vehicles to see what I've got and what and how I can rebuild while the grass isn't growing [bigwhistle]also a bit cold for epoxy to set off[bigwhistle]

141239 the red one in the middle is doing my head in[bawl] not for the mechanical side but what is it and ADR's

To me its a wide light 2a, chassis and bulkhead series2 141246 141247 141248 141249removed bulkhead

However rego says 1972 build date is........... this not series 3?141250 CALvin doesn't seem to recognise numbers

Want it eventually to sail through rego as a series 2a seatbelts maybe, but I don't want padded dash, demisters ,window washers, steering locks etc.

Am I overthinking all this..........I have a tendency not to be the sharpest knife in the draw[bighmmm] comments welcome ..........about the car not the cutlery[bigsmile]

Cheers Paul

[OneOff]

I might be wrong.
That appears to be the correct apron panel for my ‘58 on the red truck. Been looking for one for a while. If you’re thinking of not using it don’t chuck it, send me a PM

Peter.

[bemm52]

Will dig it out and send you some pics,I think it's milatary spec, will also decide if I'm using it or not

Cheers Paul

[OneOff]

Ta mate.

You are getting quite a collection there...

[AJF]

Paul
Looks like you have the bug really bad. Will enjoy reading about the restoration on this / these vehicles. Interesting to see the diversity in the vehicles.
Thanks for the posts.
Angus

[bemm52]

Paul
Looks like you have the bug really bad. Will enjoy reading about the restoration on this / these vehicles. Interesting to see the diversity in the vehicles.
Thanks for the posts.
Angus

Yep got the bug alright, got a mechanic mate coming around tommorow and we are going to attempt to start and run the motors in the 3 project vehicles to see if they are junk or not.

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

Getting stuck into tearing apart my vehicles to see what I've got and what and how I can rebuild while the grass isn't growing [bigwhistle]also a bit cold for epoxy to set off[bigwhistle]

141239 the red one in the middle is doing my head in[bawl] not for the mechanical side but what is it and ADR's

To me its a wide light 2a, chassis and bulkhead series2 141246 141247 141248 141249removed bulkhead

However rego says 1972 build date is........... this not series 3?141250 CALvin doesn't seem to recognise numbers

Want it eventually to sail through rego as a series 2a seatbelts maybe, but I don't want padded dash, demisters ,window washers, steering locks etc.

Am I overthinking all this..........I have a tendency not to be the sharpest knife in the draw[bighmmm] comments welcome ..........about the car not the cutlery[bigsmile]

Cheers Paul

That chassis number is one assigned by Victorian Police. It will have been assigned because they could not find a number on the chassis, probably, if it is an imported one, because the number was not where they looked. Australian ones have the number on the LH back rear spring hanger. UK ones have the number on the RH chassis inside front wheel arch - other assemblers???

Date was probably a guess, supplied by importer (probably what he was told when he bought it). I'm guessing it was a personal import. Victoria may still have some records on it. It is definitely a late 2a, probably 70-71.

Edit: That should be chassis number, nor rego number - now corrected!

[bemm52]

All 3 vehicles run[bigrolf] I was most worried about the two Holden conversions but they were great[bigrolf] compression test gave red and blue motor 150/160psi per cylinder after things warmed up.

Didn't do any tests on the 2.25 Rover motor but it purred too so I think its a goodie.

Good day all in all[thumbsupbig]

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Stripping 3 Land Rovers in winter is a test of endurance for me....every time a spanner slips the pain seems more than in summer[bigsad]

Took a bit of a break from spannering and decided to gurney my chassis's the one I thought was abit dodgy turned up trumps, some time in the past PO had bituminised chassis

141735 141737 141738 141739 coating has to be chiselled off but what's underneath is great

141740before........141741after

Yes there is rust where bitumen fractured but the majority of chassis is in good nick.....except rear cross member

Looks as if series 3 will be doner chassis and I'll end up with 2,2a's

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Did a compression test on the 2.25 rover 4 in the series 3 today and this is the result

141822 this is the reading pretty much for each cylinder so will use this motor in one of the rebuilds

Cheers Paul

[OneOff]

It’s looking like you might just have a silk purse under all those sows ears...[smilebigeye]

[bemm52]

Just treading slowly at the moment but it's good to have an extra vehicle as a donor.

Not sure how compatable Series 3 hubs axles etc are going to be with Series 2 should I need them,I've already noticed brake slave cylinder setup is different .

Before I forget .....before I removed needle from speedo I manually wound flywheel thingo around till needle was at 60mph someone had done this before as there was a witness mark on wheel, this enabled me to replace needle in right spot.

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

.....
Not sure how compatable Series 3 hubs axles etc are going to be with Series 2 should I need them,I've already noticed brake slave cylinder setup is different .

......
Cheers Paul

Series 2/2a/3 axles , hubs etc are generally interchangeable, except:-

Series 3 109 (and a few very late 2a) have a Salisbury rear axle instead of a Rover one. Differential and half shafts are not interchangeable, and the Salisbury has 24 spline half axles and drive flanges. On these vehicles, so does the front, although the differentials are interchangeable.

Series 3 hubs (and some very late 2a) use 16mm wheel studs instead of the 9/16"BSF ones used up to then. The hubs remain interchangeable as assemblies - the brake drums need the larger holes in them.

Late Series 3 changed the wheel bearing arrangement, meaning bearings, stub axles and seals are different.

Brakes - 88" has 10" brakes, 109" has 11". Six cylinder (S2a or 3) and V8 have wider front brakes. This was extended to all 109s in late S3 production. These wider brakes (drums, backing plate mechanism and brake shoes) can be fitted to any 109 with no other changes and offer an easy brake upgrade. A bit more complicated on 88s.

Steering linkage:- Steering arms on the swivel housings were on the top on Series 2 and early 2a were on the top for most of Series 2a and all of S3. Note that two different size bolts (or studs) are used for these, and also, one of the four is a special one that is a close fit in the hole in the arm. In early Series 3 production the tie rod ends changed from having a shoulder for the clamp on the track rod or drag link to being threaded all the way. While the complete link including tie rod ends is interchangeable, the tie rod ends and the tubular links must not be mixed, as the combination cannot be securely clamped and is dangerous.

There may be something I have missed so if anyone spots anything, please add it.

Caution! The bits currently fitted may not be the same as original - someone may very well have swapped between models twenty or thirty years ago! So check what you have before ordering parts!

[bemm52]

Thanks John a wealth of information again
The series 3 does have a Salisbury diff it seems huge in comparison to the rover diff,...... so if I'm understanding you correctly if I choose to use it I must also use the series 3 rover front diff and axles as they are different splines to 2a.
The other problem I'm thinking about, is at the moment I intend to use front and rear differentials that were on original vehicles eg not mix and match front and rears
The reason for this is I'm assuming front and rear diff must be same ratios and I've no idea what previous owners have fitted.

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Although I haven't posted much things are slowly happening ..........going to resurrect the two 2a's and make the series 3 a doner

143169 143170 drive shafts painted, considered reusing uni's but will replace with new.

143171steering boxes stripped and cleaned for rebuilding

143172two had top race flogged out and homemade leather bearings inserted

1431731964 relay came out other two housings still stuck in a 3 and 2a chassis

143174Tex Magna strip missing one 1/8 dia setscrew, both wheel rubbers shot with one having some kind of ally plate bodge

143175started the dreaded honesty book for financial controller..............Not quiet up to date

Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

Did u notice the difference between s2a and s3 steering columns??

Cheers Rod

[bemm52]

Did u notice the difference between s2a and s3 steering columns??

Cheers Rod

Yes there was some differences s3 and2a widelight were beefier at the top and had a big groove for I'm guessing a steering lock

Steering relays were different as well s3 having smaller diameter brass thrust washers and different size oil seals for end plates .........or maybe someone put in a crap after market relay at sometime.....housings and shafts identical

will be over your way in late September will look you up

cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

Good to see u again Paul.

[bemm52]

Awful weather here today, (although great to have rain)

To take my mind off a tooth ache (to early for an alcohol anaesthetic) I decided to spend the afternoon working on door frames in my shed with the pot belly and music cranked up.

143401 the downside of getting 3 vehicles for nothing is that all the door frames are moth-eaten


143403 cancer cut out 143402 new metal welded in

143404 job done, need to modify door stop to series 2 spec but no biggie, I have the part from another door

143405 now just got to resurrect another three frames

Dentist tomorrow [bigrolf]

Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

snip

Dentist tomorrow [bigrolf]

Cheers Paul

What time?? Tooth hurty??[emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23]

Cheers Rod

[bemm52]

What time?? Tooth hurty??[emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23]

Cheers Rod

one more sleep[bigrolf][bigrolf]

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

With the news of a mate finding me a rust free early 2a bulkhead I got stuck in for a while

145279 etched bits

145280 clutch and brake masters all working +reservoir for 64' 2a all working will have rover 2.25 donk [thumbsupbig] just need to find rubber dust boots

145281 what should I use to flush reservoir there is gunky stuff in the bottom?

145282 master cylinders all working for boosted brake car will have 202 blue motor

145283 need rubber boot for booster and non boosted masters to will jump on Google tonight and see what comes up


Cheers Paul

[Chops]

Cleaning the gunk out of the reservoir, I'd probably use a brake cleaner Paul.

[bemm52]

clutch and brake pedal assemblies for two vehicles rebuilt as well as hand brake levers

145491

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Did u notice the difference between s2a and s3 steering columns??

Cheers Rod

When I first read this Rod I thought you were referring to the main shafts which are different but the same length and interchangeable
Had bits on my bench yesterday to start rebuilding boxes and columns and noticed that I have one longer outer tube with s/box mounting flange riveted on and two shorter tubes with bolt on mounting flanges
The longer tube corresponds to the tube in Jade my 88
In my backyard wrecking yard I have two 2a's and one series 3 so I'm assuming one of the 2a's has had a series 3 column fitted at some time
will hunt for some 1 3/8" ID tube to sleeve and extend one of the shorter tubes

Cheers Paul

[mick88]

Paul if that blue motor is a 3.3 they are a very good donk, plenty of torque a they have a 6kg heavier bottom
end than the red 202, plus a 12 port head. Check out your conversions and see which one has the heaviest
flywheel and hopefully takes a Land Rover 9.5 clutch and use it when you put it all back together.
As standard a blue 3.3 runs a 2kg lighter flywheel than a red motor. The heaviest is best for your application.

Cheers, Mick.

[bemm52]

Creating a series 2a column from a series 3........and no its not in the manual [bigwhistle]

145585series 3 column tube shorter than 2a


145586 cut and sleeve


145587 145588 welded


145589 145590 while I was at it blanked all series3 slots and holes


145591 145592 same length and painted for assembly

145593 sleeve will be hidden away between pedal boxes

Also found time to take the missus for a look at wild flowers in Jade along Pearl Point Road.....our local version of the Oodnadatta Track [bighmmm]

145594 145595 145596

Cheers Paul

[OneOff]

145592


HEY!! YOU HAVE MY MUG!!!

[bemm52]

145623 rebuilt steering column/boxes a little over ball bearings for a while

another point of difference early 2a's have two through holes to mount box smaller diameter these are larger hole boxes

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Did some front axle examinations on my series 3 donor today and found

145847 145848 I'm assuming I'm up for a new drive shaft or is this OK

145849 whatever happened in the past damaged inside of swivel ball as well.....I did notice spring clip thingo on the inside of the hub wasn't seated when I disassembled this side (drivers) perhaps the axle slid out of the diff a bit because of this and uni flogged against inside of swivel ball

145850 are these unis OK there is no sideways movement I assume centrifugal force keeps the rollers in correct position

145851 I wanted to use this axle assembly in my blue Holden rebuild as its got more splines and beefier shafts

145852 damage to diff bolt or stud surprisingly on the top of the diff

145853 swivel balls in good nick but no steering stops either side

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

The notches on the universal yoke are of no concern provided the cup is held properly. There is not much clearance, and it has probably been run with flogged out U-joint, or possibly had a foreign object in there at some time.

[1950landy]

Universal joints usual have cork seals in the caps & they would keep the rollers in place.

[bemm52]

The notches on the universal yoke are of no concern provided the cup is held properly. There is not much clearance, and it has probably been run with flogged out U-joint, or possibly had a foreign object in there at some time.

Glad I'm not up for a new shaft I guess the only time it'll be under load is when 4WD is selected and that is unlikely to be at highway speeds

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Universal joints usual have cork seals in the caps & they would keep the rollers in place.

Thinking I will replace unis they are cheap in the scheme of things and the rollers just don't look right to me

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

These U-joints should be without seals to ensure lubrication. Some allow the seals to be removed for this use.

[bemm52]

Decided to start to clean the engine in situ while I wait for Santa and his Reindeer to deliver my engine crane.......I've been good all year [bighmmm]

146555 146556

146557 what is this plug with Thailand cast into it..... also the two silver plugs with centre punch marks in them to the left of the Thai plug

Welsh plugs are brass[thumbsupbig]

Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

That galv plug is supposed to be an alloy sacraficial plug. The other alloy plugs are screw in core plugs. There may even be 3 or more in the top of the cyl head. They are NOT sacraficial plugs. They are supposed to be made of a different composition to the alloy sacraficial plug which as suggested is supposed to corrode before the other alloy plugs. The screw in plug at the rear should be alloy as well but most replace with brass screw in plugs if fitted. Some rear plugs were dish type knock ins on later engines. Have fun with it.

Cheers Rod

[bemm52]

Rod so.....what I think your saying is Thai plug is wrong...other plugs, and your probably right there may be more than two.......are screwed in by a centre punch ??? I'm assuming this was done in the factory and needs no attention.
Someone posted in another thread they were doing a rebuild on their vehicle because first rebuild it wasn't quiet right....Jade is a good functional rebuild but these next ones I want to go further, and when their done I'm afraid poor old Jade will be in for another refurb

cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

They tend to screw them in with a flat screwdriver then pein them over with a hammer or suchlike. They do corrode from the inside out so u cant tell if they r good or not.

Cheers Rod

[bemm52]

Finally got my 4wd engine crane going.....a few trolleys around the place missing wheels though[bighmmm]

146894 146895 I love my angle grinder and welder[thumbsupbig]

I drained oil from gearbox, oil was like treacle, before removal and this was in the drain plug

146896 146897 146900

Engine was good still a hint of honing in bores and mains like new....so recently rebuilt[thumbsupbig]

146898 146899 Are these nuts on the conrod ends reusable....thought I read somewhere here they were one use only, nothing in manual.

Cheers Paul

[4bee]

what is this plug with Thailand cast into it.....




That is rear of engine block LH side correct?

From memory & trying to recall it's description from my old S2A Parts book, now gifted to another bloke doing one up, it was described as a "Redundant Water Heater Plug" used for a fitted electrical water heater when used, I suppose for very cold weather pre-heating.

On the same page I think there was a cylindrical sketch of the heater itself.

Back then I recall being puzzled by it as well.

Ed. Possibly the same as a 44 gallon drum small bung to look at & "diecast ****metal" I had to smash mine out & replace it.


ED #2 Block heater as told by my Uncle Jethro. [biggrin]

How to R&R or install a block heater - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZg5J0nQ6H0)




The domed Welch/Welsh (?) plugs were inserted into a clean hole with a sealant around the circumference & a large diam. brass drift was used to expand them outwards when it was hammered in.

[4bee]

Still available for Discs etc but not Series.Engine Block Heater For Land Rovers (https://www.roverparts.com/Parts/PRC9674G)

[mick88]

Now they are a good set of wheels on that engine crane, be great for outdoors off the concrete.


Cheers, Mick.

[bemm52]

A mate dropped me of some bits and pieces over silly season amongst the booty was two wiper motors and an odd bracket

Wiper motors first..... they appear reasonable quality and are about as heavy as the Lucas ones
it would seem they park by depressing flat steel tongue and rotating the motor left or right, anyone had anything to do with them???
Not sure how to get Bakelite on of switch of so I can possibly save them I'm assuming its a press fit but after the Jade choke button incident I'm a bit gun-shy

Any Thoughts from someone that knows these motors ????

147280 147281 147282

Then there is this odd bracket thing with hints of bronze green

147283 147284 147285 147286 147287

Need to retrain in picture posting but I think you get the idea......usually my blooper picture uploads appear at the bottom ...perhaps not this time

Cheers Paul

[1950landy]

Just guesing but may be if you undo the two cover screws the switch knob will come off with the cover, but I could be wrong.

[bemm52]

Following 1950landy's advice I got into the wiper motors today ....many years to late[bigsad]

147312brass bushes metal gears 147313 gasket locating dowels on cover plate 147314[bigrolf]

Then....147315 147316 147317 [bawl][bawl]

However I did find a dash panel with a key that turns 147318

Cheers Paul

[1950landy]

Following 1950landy's advice I got into the wiper motors today ....many years to late[bigsad]

147312brass bushes metal gears 147313 gasket locating dowels on cover plate 147314[bigrolf]

Then....147315 147316 147317 [bawl][bawl]

However I did find a dash panel with a key that turns 147318

Cheers Paul

Good to be rite for once .

[Chops]

A bit of CRC or WD40,,, too easy mate [bigwhistle]

[bemm52]

Finally I have two rust free chassis
150112 150113

Now I need to get two serviceable bulkheads out of this collection
150114


Cheers Paul

[1950landy]

That looks like a bigger project in the back ground. Unfortunatly for you I had half a dozen new military combination instruments , have given them all away now.:thumbsdown: