110 Puma Passenger rear doors Central Locking doesn’t!

[Baytown]

Hi everyone.
Both my rear passenger doors on my 2012 110 have stopped working with the central locking.
I can’t find a thread on this even though I’m sure I’ve seen one.
Any ideas re fault finding?
Thanks.

Ken

[weeds]

I vaguely remember reading the wires going between the B Pillar and the door chaffing inside the rubber tube.

[DazzaTD5]

You can be sure pretty well most faults on a Land Rover have been covered before on AULRO, this is one of them....

While it can be a faulty lock actuator (yes both) its more likely and common for it to be a broken wire in the door harness, all that pesky opening and shutting doors is the fault.

*Pull the door card off and either:
*repair the harness, wire and solder it.
*replace harness, part number LR016439 (for either side).

*Due to the outrageous hourly rate I charge, I replace the harness on customers vehicles.

[Baytown]

Thanks Dazza and Weeds.
Ill get on to it Friday and report back if I find the fault.
Good on you.

Ken

[HardCharger]

The pink wire got nipped and cut. Just splice it back together but using a thicker wire on the part that gets nipped and you should be good to go.

For good measure, check the opposite door as well and it shouldn't be too far behind and do this "mod" to prevent or shall I say minimize this inconvenience in the future.

Hope this helps

[dazzler]

Thanks Dazza and Weeds.
Ill get on to it Friday and report back if I find the fault.
Good on you.

Ken

I actually used a sleeved two core power cable and lengthened the wire altogether. also did not have to remove door card to do the job as i removed and worked on the B pillar side fo the harness.

regards

[DiscoMick]

Was a chafed wire in the conduit between pillar and door on one of mine too.
If both failed together, have you also checked fuses?

[justinc]

*Due to the outrageous hourly rate I charge, I replace the harness on customers vehicles.

Thats the way D. Totally agree there. Do it once properly. The horror of the initial invoice fades away eventually when the fault doesn't reoccur on a weekly basis....😄

[dazzler]

Thats the way D. Totally agree there. Do it once properly. The horror of the initial invoice fades away eventually when the fault doesn't reoccur on a weekly basis....😄


...replacing more with the same is prudent I wonder, there is clearly a design issue as the wiring is underrated and the fault will guarantee to reappear at some point unless reengineered IMHO.

On a preventative note, i think using a self bonding tape over the bare wire will likely prevent the kink from happening

3M Scotch 23 Self Bonding Electrical Tape HT002007413









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[Handy Harry]

Thanks for this info. The right rear door central locking carked it a few months ago. I thought it was probably the actuator so put it in the too hard basket. After reading this thread I checked the wires and sure enough the pink one was severed. I grafted in a new section and all works well again. I will upgrade the left door while I am at it. I did have to remove the door lining. This was on a 130 dualcab.

[DiscoMick]

Thanks for this info. The right rear door central locking carked it a few months ago. I thought it was probably the actuator so put it in the too hard basket. After reading this thread I checked the wires and sure enough the pink one was severed. I grafted in a new section and all works well again. I will upgrade the left door while I am at it. I did have to remove the door lining. This was on a 130 dualcab.Excellent! Well sluethed.

[labrado]

I'm suffering this issue, but the wires in mine seem to be OK as I measured the voltage between the 2 wires, when I press the lock button on the fob, I got about +12v. When I press the unlock, I got -12v.
So do I have to replace the actuator?

[labrado]

I'm suffering this issue, but the wires in mine seem to be OK as I measured the voltage between the 2 wires, when I press the lock button on the fob, I got about +12v. When I press the unlock, I got -12v.
So do I have to replace the actuator?Thank you guys, broken wires found in the rubber hosehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181204/488085c56264f34312d4893abe4d28ee.jpg

[DiscoMick]

Thank you guys, broken wires found in the rubber hosehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181204/488085c56264f34312d4893abe4d28ee.jpgThat's the same as happened to mine.

[Rick Fischer]

Hiyas

Yep. been there done that. However, my reasons for failures were metal fatigue of copper wire, internally. (wire strands and insulation too hard for the curve and not enough strands) First did a bypass which only lasted a couple of months.

Final fix?? removed harness all together, both sides, clipped off the plugs with enough "solder" length, then inserted/soldered in an appropriate length of large diameter many strands (copper) "soft" HiFi speaker wire.

This fault is/was also a prime suspect in 10AS security module problem. This has happened again since. [bigsad]

Cheers

RF

[Baytown]

Ha, over a year after I asked about this issue, I’ve finally got around to giving my 110 some Lock luvin.

My orage wires were broken in both mid passenger doors, so I’ve repaired accordingly, and all’s good.

My rear lock was very rarely unlocking as well, so I removed the card, cleaned the red dust as much as I could, liberal silicone spray and silicon grease to the catches.

It all works as intended now. I love spending an afternoon on the vehicle and sorting any issues out.

Thanks for the guidance folks, and best wishes from Tassie.

Ken
153706153707

[ATH]

I had this prob. on the Puma and soldered a short length of softer wire in which certainly solved it for me. Seems like just another bit of Ford penny pinching after they took over as my 300Tdi and Td5 never suffered from the problems the Puma did.
I was glad to see the back of it actually although I'd spent plenty making sure it was a good vehicle. Dazza did a fair bit of the work for me like axles and output shaft.
AlanH.

PS. I did both doors just to make sure plus put those small extenders on which let the doors open wider.

[DiscoMick]

I think adding the extenders to mine may have pulled the wires tighter and made it more likely they would break.

[Baytown]

Hi Nick.
Yes, I’ve the extenders as well, and my left rear door had clearly snapped both the pink and orange wire in the same spot, so I added a 5cm extension to the wiring repair.
All good now.👍


I think adding the extenders to mine may have pulled the wires tighter and made it more likely they would break.

[Chenz]

I too was thinking it was actuators or something major until I read this thread. Both rear doors had stopped working on my 130. Pulled out the rubber grommets and lo and behold both orange wires were severed where they bend.

Replaced them with thicker wire with lots of strands and put in an extra length so it does not kink in the same spots and wallah, central locking up and working again.

Thanks guys for an easy fix