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synthium
25th April 2018, 08:44 PM
Hi everyone,
Is there any issue with a solar panel with a regulator being plugged into a dual Anderson lead which also goes to a 12v fridge and a deep cycle battery.

Or do I have to have the panel on a seperate cable straight to the battery?

dero
25th April 2018, 09:03 PM
if the reg is on the panel I can't imagine there would be a problem .

synthium
25th April 2018, 09:06 PM
That’s what I think. I just read somewhere that you shouldn’t mix charging and power inputs on the same cable but no reason as to why.

DiscoMick
25th April 2018, 09:18 PM
Hi everyone,
Is there any issue with a solar panel with a regulator being plugged into a dual Anderson lead which also goes to a 12v fridge and a deep cycle battery.

Or do I have to have the panel on a seperate cable straight to the battery?Can't see a problem, but I'm not an auto electrician.

bee utey
25th April 2018, 10:17 PM
That’s what I think. I just read somewhere that you shouldn’t mix charging and power inputs on the same cable but no reason as to why.

It depends on the thickness and length of the cables and also the power of the panel set. If the cables are not showing any significant voltage drop with the fridge running then they can be used for charging at the same time. Too thin/long cabling might let the regulator see some widely varying voltages and prevent it from properly charging the battery. I know when I last went bush camping with a 160W solar panel set it didn't seem to care where I plugged it in, sometimes I leant it on the fridge itself to shade it. It all worked together quite happily.

trout1105
26th April 2018, 12:25 AM
I have what I call a "Daisy Chain" lead made up of heavy wire and multiple Anderson plugs.
I run 2x 110AH batteries connected to a 40l and a 80l fridge that is either powered via a couple of solar panels when camped up or from the alternator in the D2a.
I have used this setup for more than 2 years and dozens of trips away now and the batteries are still in top shape so are the fridges.
I did have to replace the brushes in my 14 year old alternator recently But I doubt that running a couple of fridges on the run caused this.

donh54
26th April 2018, 04:39 AM
I have dual batteries in the D1, both under the bonnet, with a Traxide unit, 6B&S cable to Anderson plug on the towbar. With the camper trailer hooked up, I have a 3 way connector that the solar panel plugs into. Fridge in the car can run full-time, as well as the battery in the trailer staying charged. When it's all connected, the aux battery in the car and the trailer battery are both on the same circuit, with appropriate cut outs of course, and once they're up to charge the balance then tops up the starting battery, via the Traxide unit. Been running it like that for a couple of years, no problems.
Currently living in the trailer for a couple of months during the cotton harvest. Only issue I have, which I'll sort out after the harvest, is I'd like a heavier cable from the solar panel, and move the regulator. It's currently attached to the panel, which is convenient, but probably not the most efficient.

Homestar
26th April 2018, 05:40 AM
As BU said - is fine if the cabling is all up to scratch. I do this on my setup no dramas - all the anderson plugs in and around my van can be used for power or pluging my portable solar panel into.

synthium
26th April 2018, 08:53 AM
Thanks everyone - let’s see how it goes then. I have provisions to go directly to battery if needed so I won’t be left short of it doesn’t work out. Thank u

Rolly
26th April 2018, 07:03 PM
I have a dual battery system utilising the Traxide Isolator and a Yellow top battery. I also have the cabling from traxide to Anderson plug at the rear of the car. The cabling from the Anderson plug to Aux battery is quite thick and is as recommended/supplied by Tim at Traxide.
When away I use a flexible solar mat which charges the aux battery(whilst the aux is being charged it is running a 65l fridge/freezer and numerous other electrical loads).
The solar mat is from Hard Korr and it's aawesome. As the batery reaches full charge the controller from the solar cells reduces the input till Zero when the battery is fully charged.
I've never had an issue and when others are starting engines to re-charge batteries I've not needed to(unless there's no sun).

If you have any real issues give Tim at Traxide a call, he's a wealth of knowledge and explains it so even I could understand.

Good Luck!

DiscoMick
26th April 2018, 08:07 PM
Really, the solar is just another power source like an alternator, except the solar is regulated lower, so it shouldn't make any difference if the wiring is up to standard, I think.