Defender 110 suspension and tyre recommendations

[crispy scapes]

Hey fellow defender pals! This is my first post, so I hope it's in the right section. I was just hoping to get some of your advice with suspension and tires for a defender 110 (images attached). I've booked a trip to Tas and am planning to do Climies, Balfour, etc. Unfortunately I'll be with two Toyota's haha. So i was thinking about getting a 3" lift and 255/85r16 or 285/75r16 BF Goodrich KM3 (just released). I am still considering 35" tires for more diff clearance but don't like the addition mods required and don't want to have a non-legal setup. My defender is prominently used for 4wd driving and very rarely for commutes.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Chris

Instagram: PUMBA 🐗 2013 Defender 110 (@pumba_the_defender) • Instagram photos and videos (http://www.instagram.com/pumba_the_defender)

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[Landy Red]

I reckon a 3-inch lift alone is going to take you into non-legal territory. Not to mention cause all sorts of problems with steering geometry.. If you are going to fit 35s they will need an offset rim which will affect track width and also affect the legality of your car. I can tell you that in Tas (I live here) a 35 inch tyre and 3 inch lift will make your car illegal without appropriate modification plate/ engineer’s report etc.

I’d stick with as is but run the 255’s and spend the money on a locker(s) instead. Probably more useful in the terrain and better bang for buck. Then drive in the middle of the group and make sure you have solid recovery points front and rear! Because you will be recovering Toyotas all over the place.

What time of year are you planning on coming? Balfour especially, gets pretty wet/deep!

[crispy scapes]

I reckon a 3-inch lift alone is going to take you into non-legal territory. Not to mention cause all sorts of problems with steering geometry.. If you are going to fit 35s they will need an offset rim which will affect track width and also affect the legality of your car. I can tell you that in Tas (I live here) a 35 inch tyre and 3 inch lift will make your car illegal without appropriate modification plate/ engineer’s report etc.

I’d stick with as is but run the 255’s and spend the money on a locker(s) instead. Probably more useful in the terrain and better bang for buck. Then drive in the middle of the group and make sure you have solid recovery points front and rear! Because you will be recovering Toyotas all over the place.

What time of year are you planning on coming? Balfour especially, gets pretty wet/deep!

Hey Landy Red. Thanks for the reply and advice. I was initially planning for a 3" lift but found out recently the law in NSW has been changed to allow 3" lifts.

"Modifications to the ride height up to 75mm that incorporate a maximum change in the suspension of 50mm, and/or an increase in the diameter of the wheel and tyre combination of up to 50mm. "

http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/roads/registration/get-nsw-registration/standards/raising-lowering-vehicles.html

Planning to do Balfour around early January and will have a snorkel for that! Going for around three weeks, got any recommendations on nice tracks?

[Landy Red]

Oh there are soo many! Depends what you like and where in the state you are going. If you are on west coast for the balfour track and climies track then there is mt huxley and mt mcall tracks near Queenstown for scenic mountains rainforest etc.. there is Montazuma falls too. There is ocean beach and sandy cape and tarkine and arthur river regions for coastal sruff. So, so much! But there is other great stuff in every part of the state. Get this book and you can't go wrong Off-road Tasmania Guidebook (http://www.roving.com.au)

[Tombie]

Simply. Biggest tyres with lowest lift...

255/85-16 on between stock and 2” would be the best all round performer.

Wider and taller has more downside than benefit. Been there and done that!

[Tombie]

Hey Landy Red. Thanks for the reply and advice. I was initially planning for a 3" lift but found out recently the law in NSW has been changed to allow 3" lifts.

"Modifications to the ride height up to 75mm that incorporate a maximum change in the suspension of 50mm, and/or an increase in the diameter of the wheel and tyre combination of up to 50mm. "

http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/roads/registration/get-nsw-registration/standards/raising-lowering-vehicles.html

Planning to do Balfour around early January and will have a snorkel for that! Going for around three weeks, got any recommendations on nice tracks?

That lift is only 2” + tyres. :)

[weeds]

Reading on here pumas don’t like big lifts.....front prop shaft will become the weak link.

255/85’s are a nice size.....

Add rear locker would be nice but upgraded axles should be on the list if you’re going to run bigger tyres.

[DiscoMick]

A standard Defender is already one of the most capable vehicles money can buy, so don't sweat about mods too much.
Defenders don't need lifting as they are already quite high. Lifting can also cause vibrations in the propshafts.
I suggest it's better to fit HD axles and flanges, particularly to the rear. Also get good tyres. A rear locker would do a lot, although if you have a Puma Defender their TC is already very good.
Underbody armour including the steering, diffs, under the engine and the fuel tank would also be a good idea.
Make sure you have a towbar fitted with tow points front and rear. You might need them to tow Toyotas.

[crispy scapes]

Oh there are soo many! Depends what you like and where in the state you are going. If you are on west coast for the balfour track and climies track then there is mt huxley and mt mcall tracks near Queenstown for scenic mountains rainforest etc.. there is Montazuma falls too. There is ocean beach and sandy cape and tarkine and arthur river regions for coastal sruff. So, so much! But there is other great stuff in every part of the state. Get this book and you can't go wrong Off-road Tasmania Guidebook (http://www.roving.com.au)

We will start off at Cradle, head west, then down to Hobart and up the east coast. Yeah we've got that guidebook already. Thanks for the advice Landy Red.

[crispy scapes]

Simply. Biggest tyres with lowest lift...

255/85-16 on between stock and 2” would be the best all round performer.

Wider and taller has more downside than benefit. Been there and done that!

Yeah I think I'm on the same page. Also I interpreted the lift laws as you mentioned but was told otherwise by others but you're right. 3" is max lift, so I'll go 2" via suspension and 1" (2" larger tires) with the 33" tires and keep it legal. 255/85 seem like the best choice. Will they be fine width wise on the stock defender alloys? Any brand recommendations for suspension? Thanks for the help Tombie!

[crispy scapes]

Reading on here pumas don’t like big lifts.....front prop shaft will become the weak link.

255/85’s are a nice size.....

Add rear locker would be nice but upgraded axles should be on the list if you’re going to run bigger tyres.

Weeds, I think that's what I'll go with. Any recommendations for defender suspension brands?

[crispy scapes]

A standard Defender is already one of the most capable vehicles money can buy, so don't sweat about mods too much.
Defenders don't need lifting as they are already quite high. Lifting can also cause vibrations in the propshafts.
I suggest it's better to fit HD axles and flanges, particularly to the rear. Also get good tyres. A rear locker would do a lot, although if you have a Puma Defender their TC is already very good.
Underbody armour including the steering, diffs, under the engine and the fuel tank would also be a good idea.
Make sure you have a towbar fitted with tow points front and rear. You might need them to tow Toyotas.

Very true and I definitely know I'm the weak link at the moment haha but I also don't want to damage my baby on some of the more challenging trails because it's too low. Upgrading my axles and CV's is on the list but was planning to do that after suspension, tires (255/85r16 Bfgoodrich KM3), engine tune (BAS), intercooler (BAS), aux fuel tank (Brown Davis 80L), rear wheel carrier (Rijidij) and snorkel (Mantec) [biggrin]

I'd like ARB air lockers, Ashcroft lockers or Ashcroft ATBs but as you mentioned I feel the TC is good enough for now, that I should focus on the suspension and tires first.

I have the Rijidij Bullbar bash plate and the stock steering protector bar but might get a diff protector before Tas. Got rated tow points front and rear ready to tow out the Toyota's and also a warn winch haha. Thanks for the advice Mick.

[DiscoMick]

Very true and I definitely know I'm the weak link at the moment haha but I also don't want to damage my baby on some of the more challenging trails because it's too low. Upgrading my axles and CV's is on the list but was planning to do that after suspension, tires (255/85r16 Bfgoodrich KM3), engine tune (BAS), intercooler (BAS), aux fuel tank (Brown Davis 80L), rear wheel carrier (Rijidij) and snorkel (Mantec) [biggrin]

I'd like ARB air lockers, Ashcroft lockers or Ashcroft ATBs but as you mentioned I feel the TC is good enough for now, that I should focus on the suspension and tires first.

I have the Rijidij Bullbar bash plate and the stock steering protector bar but might get a diff protector before Tas. Got rated tow points front and rear ready to tow out the Toyota's and also a warn winch haha. Thanks for the advice Mick.Fair enough.
Just keep in mind that going to taller tyres will slow acceleration, increase braking distances and make the vehicle go faster downhill, particularly in low range.
One of the things I like about my Defender on stock 235/85/16s is it really crawls very slowly downhill in low first, making braking unnecessary.
I guess it's a trade off of what works best in different conditions.

[manic]

+1 for 255/85 with max 2" lift.

With a good amount of extra weight on the car it should hunker down to around 1" lift - which is better for driveline and steering.

If you want more clearance get rid of those side steps and you will gain a couple of inches right there. For protection replace with rock/tree sliders that fit in the sill position.

[Robmacca]

I also like the 255/85-16 tyres but the tyre choice is limited these days when compared to 285/75-16 tyres..... and there's the price difference for those 255/85-16 tyres

[Tombie]

I also like the 255/85-16 tyres but the tyre choice is limited these days when compared to 285/75-16 tyres..... and there's the price difference for those 255/85-16 tyres

Really only 1 stand out tyre in that size.. Toyo...

[tact]

If thats a TDCi (Puma) not just the bonnet then they don't like to be lifted much unless you do something special with the front drive shaft. (double cardan).

Pic is mine, stock suspension and stock alloy rims with 255/85R16 Toyos.... No lift needed.
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[Robmacca]

Really only 1 stand out tyre in that size.. Toyo...

Agreed :)

[manic]

And BFG KM2 or maybe new KM3

[Tombie]

And BFG KM2 or maybe new KM3

Not even in the same league.

[crispy scapes]

+1 for 255/85 with max 2" lift.

With a good amount of extra weight on the car it should hunker down to around 1" lift - which is better for driveline and steering.

If you want more clearance get rid of those side steps and you will gain a couple of inches right there. For protection replace with rock/tree sliders that fit in the sill position.

So why do you prefer the 255/85 over 285/75 which I assume would have better off-road performance because of the extra traction with the extra width? Mainly because of the extra rolling resistance?

Yeah new rock sliders (http://aptoffroad.com.au/browse-catalogue/defender/product/64-apt-rock-sliders-defender-110/category_pathway-13) are on the list.

[crispy scapes]

If thats a TDCi (Puma) not just the bonnet then they don't like to be lifted much unless you do something special with the front drive shaft. (double cardan).

Pic is mine, stock suspension and stock alloy rims with 255/85R16 Toyos.... No lift needed.


Yeah it is a 2.2 TDCi (Puma). Been happy with the stock defender suspension performance?

[crispy scapes]

Not even in the same league.

Why not? There aren't even any comprehensive tests and reviews of the KM3's yet. I currently have Toyo Open Country AT 235/8516R16.

[manic]

So why do you prefer the 255/85 over 285/75 which I assume would have better off-road performance because of the extra traction with the extra width? Mainly because of the extra rolling resistance?

Yeah new rock sliders (http://aptoffroad.com.au/browse-catalogue/defender/product/64-apt-rock-sliders-defender-110/category_pathway-13) are on the list.I had 285/75 ATs prior to the 255 MTs. The 285 look the goods but 255s drew me in for a go after hearing a lot of praise from defender owners (mostly on here): same height, less rolling resistance/weight, better turning circle, fit nicely in the guards. Also the 285 really should be on a 7.5"+ wide rim, saying that no problems at low PSI when I had them on a 7" but could be an insurance problem in event of accident.

MT treads are supposedly not as good as ATs on the sand but I have found sand driving better on the 255MTs than the 285ATs and I put that down to less rolling resistance. Both 33s have the diameter to float well on the sand when aired down but a skinnier 33 will have less to push through when you start to get a build up ahead of the tyre. At least thats the feeling I get with the 255s on the beach - less resistance.

And then on mud. The 255MT cuts through and digs in. Its fantastic in mud!

[manic]

Not even in the same league.The toyos are great if your in a 4ton vehicle but im at 2200kg and really dont need all that extra weight in the tyre. The BFGs flex well, quieter on the road (not that it matters much in a def), have a better tread pattern for mud slinging. AND Ive never had a puncture with a BFG. So have no reason to try Toyo - yet!

Toyo MT treads might last longer than KM2s, I dont know. This is my first set, up to 26,525km, across the gunbarell and up the cape. Still looking good with plenty of tread.

Which ones cheaper?

[Landy Red]

Not that you'll probably need to replace one while you are here, but no one keeps the 255s in Tas they always ship them in from Victoria and can sometimes take weeks. You normally get a blank look when you ask for that size! I once waited nearly a month a few years back. So that's worth considering maybe? That's one reason I run 285s now (and much cheaper). You'll be running the 285s on an 8-inch rim, so that gives you more tyre choices if you don't like the 33s? I used to have 255s on disco rims which are +33 off-set like your boost alloys, and they do rub on full lock and your turning circle does suck. Turning around on narrow track can be the problem. At the moment, I am selling my 16x8 -25 rims because I am sick of mud on my door handles and windows! So that’s something to consider too. I am going to try the 285s on a +8 rim, with extended flares, and am hoping it’s the right mix of increased track, tyre height, price, mud on car, looks and legality! If this fails I give up.

[DiscoMick]

So why do you prefer the 255/85 over 285/75 which I assume would have better off-road performance because of the extra traction with the extra width? Mainly because of the extra rolling resistance?

Yeah new rock sliders (http://aptoffroad.com.au/browse-catalogue/defender/product/64-apt-rock-sliders-defender-110/category_pathway-13) are on the list.Traction comes from length, not width. To get more traction a tyre needs to be taller not wider. More width just increases the mound of sand or mud being pushed in front of the tyre.
More height increases the length of tread in contact with the surface during each revolution. If you compare two tyres with the same width but one is taller, the taller one makes a longer footprint for each revolution.
Widening the lower tyre just increases the rolling resistance which has to be overcome for the tyre to turn. That's good if you want to float on snow, but bad if traction is your aim.
Maximum traction comes from a tyre which is tall and narrow, like the 235/85/16s on Defenders.

[tact]

Yeah it is a 2.2 TDCi (Puma). Been happy with the stock defender suspension performance?
Ahhh mine’s MY2013 2.2, had it from new.

The stock suspension has served well so far. Sure: It’s harsh on road. It could likely flex better off-road. When it starts to fail or leak will consider something better. But won’t be looking for any suspension lift or extreme articulation. My use case for the vehicle doesn’t include hard core trails or competition. [biggrin]

[Shoogs]

I have 255/85's on both Defenders, TOYO's on the 300tdi and BF Goodrich on a Puma as they were on when i bought it, BF's are noisier I think and that's saying something going from a 23 year old vehicle to an SVX... same same on road I think, I will probably replace with TOYO when the time comes...

[Tombie]

The Toyo has a better compound, better tread profile - digs well in mud, walks sand and handles road use very well.

It doesn’t chip like the BFG or others and isn’t subject to the wire belt problems of the BFG.

[djam1]

Specifically which Tyre Mike?

[Tombie]

The toyos are great if your in a 4ton vehicle but im at 2200kg and really dont need all that extra weight in the tyre. The BFGs flex well, quieter on the road (not that it matters much in a def), have a better tread pattern for mud slinging. AND Ive never had a puncture with a BFG. So have no reason to try Toyo - yet!

Toyo MT treads might last longer than KM2s, I dont know. This is my first set, up to 26,525km, across the gunbarell and up the cape. Still looking good with plenty of tread.

Which ones cheaper?

It’s only 2.9kg difference on the Toyo but you can see it in the side biters, tread etc...

Currently can get the Toyo for $282 each

[Tombie]

Specifically which Tyre Mike?

Toyo Open Country MT vs the KM2

[manic]

The Toyo has a better compound, better tread profile - digs well in mud, walks sand and handles road use very well.

It doesnÂ’t chip like the BFG or others and isnÂ’t subject to the wire belt problems of the BFG.

If I ever experience any issues with punctures, chipping or wire belts on a BFG I will check out the Toyos as they sound brutal. Most reviews I have read declare the BFG to have the better tread profile, with Toyos more likely to clog and BFGs better at flexing for grip over rocky terrain. But let's be honest, deciding either way will barely make any difference to your off/on-road abilities. With the impressive run I have had on BFGs, Toyo would have to offer their tyres significantly cheaper to win me over. With the KM3s out, there may be some good prices on the KM2s over the next few months.

[weeds]

If I ever experience any issues with punctures, chipping or wire belts on a BFG I will check out the Toyos as they sound brutal. Most reviews I have read declare the BFG to have the better tread profile, with Toyos more likely to clog and BFGs better at flexing for grip over rocky terrain. But let's be honest, deciding either way will barely make any difference to your off/on-road abilities. With the impressive run I have had on BFGs, Toyo would have to offer their tyres significantly cheaper to win me over. With the KM3s out, there may be some good prices on the KM2s over the next few months.

Much the same with me.....weather it be sand or dirt roads, don’t do a lot in the mud.

previous defer i started with BFG AT and finished with BFG MT’s. No issues, not even a puncture. 3 sets overall.

This defer I threw a set of Pirelli’s MT’s on, cheap, wearing a little quick but other than that are doing the job. Had on puncture in high country, temporary plug is holding up.

[Robmacca]

This defer I threw a set of Pirelli’s MT’s on, cheap, wearing a little quick but other than that are doing the job. Had on puncture in high country, temporary plug is holding up.

I was again today trying to solve the squeaky brake issue on the rear of my Defender and had a look over my Goodyear Wrangler M/T's (235/85/16) after the trip down to VHC.... I was shocked to see the condition of them(Rears only). I ran pressures of 25psi front and 28psi rear while offroad and they are severely cut up. Missing clunks of thread from the tyre on the LHS rear. The RHS one looked ok and I didn't check the fronts...yet
I've never really been happy with the road noise either while driving on the blacktop..... I won't be buying them again and will look into BFG M/T's myself as I know a few them and they seem quiet on the road and have lasted quite well. It will depend on price though. I would love to go with the 255/85 but I reckon they will be out of my price range

[weeds]

I was again today trying to solve the squeaky brake issue on the rear of my Defender and had a look over my Goodyear Wrangler M/T's (235/85/16) after the trip down to VHC.... I was shocked to see the condition of them(Rears only). I ran pressures of 25psi front and 28psi rear while offroad and they are severely cut up. Missing clunks of thread from the tyre on the LHS rear. The RHS one looked ok and I didn't check the fronts...yet
I've never really been happy with the road noise either while driving on the blacktop..... I won't be buying them again and will look into BFG M/T's myself as I know a few them and they seem quiet on the road and have lasted quite well. It will depend on price though. I would love to go with the 255/85 but I reckon they will be out of my price range

Ranga inspected his BFG’s after VHC, no chips or chunks missing and he was carry a House on the back, the rear Detroit eliminated any wheel spin, he did notice some unusual wear on the rears.....I’d say it more from the bitumen km’s

[manic]

. I was shocked to see the condition of them(Rears only).

I'm not sure if rocks/gravel kicked up from the fronts would cause this, but after a trip through central Australia taking on a lot of high speed dirt my rear wheel arches had been sandblasted! I have since put extended mud flaps up front.

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[Robmacca]

Ranga inspected his BFG’s after VHC, no chips or chunks missing and he was carry a House on the back, the rear Detroit eliminated any wheel spin, he did notice some unusual wear on the rears.....I’d say it more from the bitumen km’s

I'm not sure if its tyre specific as the mate's 80's cruiser that was running BFG KM2's & also suffered from bad clipping, missing chunks of rubber, etc as well, so it might be more to do with the tracks we went on....

[Tombie]

I'm not sure if its tyre specific as the mate's 80's cruiser that was running BFG KM2's & also suffered from bad clipping, missing chunks of rubber, etc as well, so it might be more to do with the tracks we went on....

That it would most likely be.

And it’s one of the toughest things when trying to quantify tyre wear and life.

What you do on one track/trip can be far worse than any other trip you have ever been on. Or it could be the one track that you luck out on for punctures.

In 30 odd years of driving I’ve had 2 punctures on my vehicles... neither off-road....

What I have had is lots of tread block, side wall, chipping, tearing and other damage.

The worst are almost always American rubber.

I was always fortunate to have good contacts in the tyre game, and would change our tyres quickly, often at 70-80% tread. That would allow me to sell them for the price I paid for replacements and keep on testing other tyres.

[manic]

This guy has run Toyo MTs for 40k, gives them a reasonable review, my guess is he is going KM3 next. Hopefully he is not disappointed!
YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRt4Qm8H8R0)

Anyway moving on to something perhaps more relevant to the topic. Suspension.

Whats a good quality shock for a 2" lift? I was quite keen on the Koni Raids but they appear to offer less travel than stock, and the closed length is longer than standard which suggest it needs extended bump stops or relocated shock mounts to avoid bottoming out!?

[crispy scapes]

I had 285/75 ATs prior to the 255 MTs. The 285 look the goods but 255s drew me in for a go after hearing a lot of praise from defender owners (mostly on here): same height, less rolling resistance/weight, better turning circle, fit nicely in the guards. Also the 285 really should be on a 7.5"+ wide rim, saying that no problems at low PSI when I had them on a 7" but could be an insurance problem in event of accident.

MT treads are supposedly not as good as ATs on the sand but I have found sand driving better on the 255MTs than the 285ATs and I put that down to less rolling resistance. Both 33s have the diameter to float well on the sand when aired down but a skinnier 33 will have less to push through when you start to get a build up ahead of the tyre. At least thats the feeling I get with the 255s on the beach - less resistance.

And then on mud. The 255MT cuts through and digs in. Its fantastic in mud!

Great to know and very surprising. As good as the wider tires look, I'm sold on 255 MTs for the practicality. Thank you for the great info Manic!

[crispy scapes]

Traction comes from length, not width. To get more traction a tyre needs to be taller not wider. More width just increases the mound of sand or mud being pushed in front of the tyre.
More height increases the length of tread in contact with the surface during each revolution. If you compare two tyres with the same width but one is taller, the taller one makes a longer footprint for each revolution.
Widening the lower tyre just increases the rolling resistance which has to be overcome for the tyre to turn. That's good if you want to float on snow, but bad if traction is your aim.
Maximum traction comes from a tyre which is tall and narrow, like the 235/85/16s on Defenders.

That's so unexpected but fascinating. Thank you for the great explanation Mick!

Read this (http://justruns.com/test/2017/10/13/narrow-vs-wide-tires/) great paper that went into more detail explaining the science behind it and I'm sold on 255/85!

[crispy scapes]

I have 255/85's on both Defenders, TOYO's on the 300tdi and BF Goodrich on a Puma as they were on when i bought it, BF's are noisier I think and that's saying something going from a 23 year old vehicle to an SVX... same same on road I think, I will probably replace with TOYO when the time comes...

KM2s?

[crispy scapes]

This guy has run Toyo MTs for 40k, gives them a reasonable review, my guess is he is going KM3 next. Hopefully he is not disappointed!
YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRt4Qm8H8R0)

Anyway moving on to something perhaps more relevant to the topic. Suspension.

Whats a good quality shock for a 2" lift? I was quite keen on the Koni Raids but they appear to offer less travel than stock, and the closed length is longer than standard which suggest it needs extended bump stops or relocated shock mounts to avoid bottoming out!?

Ronny ended up testing the new Maxxis Razr MT. Andrew is testing the KM3s on a trip across Australia (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_O5jUGSBmg). Interested to hear his review at the end but also got to take it with a grain of salt, as he is an ambassador for Bfgoodrich.

This guy was impressed with the Koni shocks (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoNQibuDnEg). What about other suspension brands like old man emu, ironman, dobinson , etc? Anyone had experience with these brands or others? Got any recommendations on what suspension setup to go with, that works well on the defenders?

[Zeros]

I’ve just put a set of Kumho AT51’s on my Defender. $260 each. I wanted something less aggressive and quiet with good on road grip as well as dirt roads. So far they’re quiet and definitely better on road than more aggressive tyres, which is good considering the 80% on road I’m doing these days. We’ll see how durable they are, only time will tell. They saved me $120.

i have Koni Raids, which are brilliant, especially with a load and over corrugations. Big bore, no fade. OME are light duty in comparison. Dobinsons sound good but I haven’t tried them. But I think the only others I’d go with are Bilsteins. They are also HD but a little more compliant than Koni’s for everyday driving IME.

[numpty]

I've just bought a pair of BFG KO2's to see how they go and I've never found the need for a tyre bigger than 235/85 and have done a lot of off track k's in the northern Simpson etc. Never had a drama with the 750's on my old Stage 1 either for that matter. I will admit that I absolutely detest mud lol.

Recently put King Springs +50mm and +500 kg's with Koni Raids on the rear of the 130 too as it's fairly heavy.

[tc_s1]

I’ve just put a set of Kumho AT51’s on my Defender. $260 each. I wanted something less aggressive and quiet with good on road grip as well as dirt roads. So far they’re quiet and definitely better on road than more aggressive tyres, which is good considering the 80% on road I’m doing these days. We’ll see how durable they are, only time will tell. They saved me $120.

i have Koni Raids, which are brilliant, especially with a load and over corrugations. Big bore, no fade. OME are light duty in comparison. Dobinsons sound good but I haven’t tried them. But I think the only others I’d go with are Bilsteins. They are also HD but a little more compliant than Koni’s for everyday driving IME.Recently went with new OME coils with Koni HD Raids and while I paid a bit dearly for them, could not be happier after ~500km. Will be doing a cross country trip in June and will report back should anything change, but for now I couldn't be happier.

[Ranga]

I'm probably going to replace my Konis (not Raids, but adjustable) with Superior Engineering remote reservoir adjustable shocks - https://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/183389-nuggets-defender-130-build-post2713022.html. Nugget is impressed with them so far. Should be great for my 130 which is either fully laden or empty in the tray. The quick adjustment should be very handy.

[86mud]

There are endless choices and everyone has an opinion on what suits them.

For me I run (in a 130) Dobinson coils. They give the vehicle a 2" lift overall. In the rear I also have Polyair bags inside the coil. For shocks I run the Koni Raid 90's. Most amazing shock I have ever had. I have used Procomp and Bilstein previously, but the Koni Raid 90's are in a field of their own. They are huge and not cheap (about $500 a corner) but well worth it. Adjustable and rebuildable.

For tyres, I run a Mickey Thompson MTZ in a 285/75 R16 on 16 x 8 (zero offset) Dynamic Rim. Been running this combo for nearly 10 years. Great tyre, highly recommended. I had nearly 70,000kms out of the last set.

[Shoogs]

KM2s?

Yep

[Zeros]

Recently went with new OME coils with Koni HD Raids and while I paid a bit dearly for them, could not be happier after ~500km. Will be doing a cross country trip in June and will report back should anything change, but for now I couldn't be happier.

Nice. You wont be sorry you went for the Konis.

OME coils are good, I’ve had them on my old Deefer. ... just the OME shocks that don’t last IME.

[Tombie]

Nice. You wont be sorry you went for the Konis.

OME coils are good, I’ve had them on my old Deefer. ... just the OME shocks that don’t last IME.

OME coils are made for them by King Springs.
They use a very good Alloy to make them.

[Zeros]

OME coils are made for them by King Springs.
They use a very good Alloy to make them.

That makes sense, they have been excellent for over 250,000km

[Landy Red]

The OP asked about suspension kits so I’ll share my experience. I am running a Terrafirma kit, the pro sport +2 inch. This kit has bigger springs and extended travel shocks so it’s essential to have dislocation cones and spring retainers. You can't just install the springs and shocks and move one. It was also necessary for me to have elliptical radius arm bushes to achieve some castor correction to keep the steering geometry correct. So, when considering a change in suspension height and a change in shocks, consider all the other things/expenses too, as it can quickly cost a lot more than expected. Good thing about Terrafirma gear is the range – they also have all those extra bits and pieces you might need.

I am really happy with how my defender performs off-road now, and it really does handle better than it did, much better. BUT my point of reference was a tired, 20-year old original equipment set up. At the same time, I also changed my wheels and tyres. So there are numerous variables. For the record, I run this suspension set up with 285/75/16 tyres and-25 wheels. It’s a kick ass combo, didn’t cost ridiculous amounts of money and hasn’t let me down yet. But the mud on the door handles gives me the ****s -so if you are away from the pressure cleaner for days at end you will wish you stuck to the 235’s and spent all that money on a rear locker!

[tc_s1]

As a quick follow up, the cooper discoverer AT's on the rear were nearly gone and as I went through all the posts on A/T3's vs BFG KO2's and 235's vs 255's vs 285's I decided to go with the BFG KO2's, staying with 235's. Put a little over 300km on them today getting into the mountains and will do some light ORV driving tomorrow on them, but the ride today was solid and smooth on hardpack. Seem a decent match for the County's new OME/Koni setup thusfar.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/58.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/59.jpg

[Tote]

Since Tassie is full of bored miners with Patrols running 36"tyres my advice would be to go with a taller tyre and less suspension lift. Those wheel ruts can be killers, we had a situation on the Sawback Range track where we would have needed to winch into the hole to go any further. Consider whether you really need to do the Balfour track due to the abrasive nature of what you will be driving through. Having said that we would have done it a couple of years ago if it hadn't been closed by fires.
I've been running Hankook Dynapro MY3 muddies on the 130 and have been pretty happy with them but I'm only running 265/75-16

Regards,
Tote

[crispy scapes]

Thanks for the advice everyone! Ended up getting some BFG KM2 255/85 second hand and have been loving them so far.

Now I'm ready to purchase suspension for the 110 (and a snorkel). Thinking 2" lift will be more then enough and most likely Dobinson springs. I'm unsure if I should get Koni or OME shocks and possibly getting rear internal airbags. I will be adding a draw system in the future, auxiliary fuel and water tanks but not before the suspension, so the airbags could help correct the ride height for when that happens? The car is purely used for touring and 4x4ing, I use another car for everyday use.

This is Pumba getting by with stock suspension at Lithgow.

PUMBA 🐗 (https://www.instagram.com/p/BlJeRcTAdaj/'taken-by=pumba_the_defender)

Lithgow (https://www.instagram.com/stories/highlights/17955309367065758/)

142869

Also the minister of finance has allowed one more upgrade/mod before our Tas trip at the end of the year, so what would you recommend?

- Rijidij rear wheel carrier (currently wheel is on the roof but can fit it inside too)
- JW Speaker Evo 2 LED headlights
- BAS engine tune, silicon pipes and intercooler
- Go all airbags for the suspension

Cheers,
Chris

[Rolly]

I went to Tassie last November and had a ball.Pyengane Jeep track was awesome and Montezuma’s had been badly cut up, apart from that all we had time for were a few beach tracks up on the East coast.
i had a chat with another family 4WD touring(they lived on the West coast), we discussed the Balfour track and they suggested it was no longer worth it as too many went in with heavy feet on the accelerator, essentially fairly impassable and likely to damage your rig.

as far as suspension goes, we’ve now done a bit of the harder stuff and never been permenantly stuck. A thoughtful approach means I’ve been able to achieve the same result as those with lifts and lockers.
before I went to Cape York I fitted a winch, yes it provides peace of mind however it’s also proved a waste of money.
L.R’s motto of “Slow as possible, fast as necessary “ seems sage advice indeed.

Tyres;

modern tyres, particularly those mentioned previously are all fantastic. Particularly those with Kevlar sidewalls, amazing how resilient they are. I’m still on the original Goodyear MT’s and at 50k expect another 10-15k out of them(fingers crossed) never had a puncture.

enjoy Tassie!

[tact]

Thanks for the advice everyone! Ended up getting some BFG KM2 255/85 second hand and have been loving them so far
[...]

Also the minister of finance has allowed one more upgrade/mod before our Tas trip at the end of the year, so what would you recommend?

- Rijidij rear wheel carrier (currently wheel is on the roof but can fit it inside too)
- JW Speaker Evo 2 LED headlights
- BAS engine tune, silicon pipes and intercooler
- Go all airbags for the suspension

Cheers,
Chris

go the BAS tune and count the power/torque increase as just a side benefit. The real benefit that you will appreciate on every drive is the improvement in driveability. Pure magic.

[100inch]

I am running 255's and minimal (1-2") lift on all the 110's I had and never looked back. OME springs, which I prefer over other brands and Sawtooth wheels so no spacers required. Gearing improves for my driving. Only changes I will made is swapping the OME shocks. m
http://up.picr.de/33502270ia.jpg

[Marty90]

I'm not sure if rocks/gravel kicked up from the fronts would cause this, but after a trip through central Australia taking on a lot of high speed dirt my rear wheel arches had been sandblasted! I have since put extended mud flaps up front.

139824How do you like these? I was going to get them but thought they brought the mudflaps up and forward.

[manic]

How do you like these? I was going to get them but thought they brought the mudflaps up and forward.No complaints, mud stays off the outriggers and door handles and I have had the rear wheel arches repainted. No worries.

If you have the factory front flap set up its probably good enough if running standard offset and tyres. But its still worth plugging the gap under the inner arch that exposes the outriggers.

No problems with position, they are fairly rigid, dont hang too low and angle away from the tyre. I Havent ripped one off yet. But if you're into rock crawling you'd probably want to add some quick disconnects or pull back fasteners.