Toyota Diesel into 2A Shorty

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I felt like going for a drive in the country to take in some of the hills outside of Bundaberg - sort of woody hills. I had innocent intents... Then this song started to play in the background... "If you go down to the woods today; you're sure of a big surprise"...

Funny how the Teddy Bear's Picnic lyrics does not mention anything about a late model 2A - broad headlight, Shorty jumping out from around a corner of the road at you as you drive down a hill. Nor, does the song mention my stopping, the owner being there and a vehicle just happening to be for sale! The song does not mention a drive off to the nearest township with an ATM either, nor the return back to the picnic site... No mention at all of my returning next weekend; or so, when the shorty will be following me home.

I felt like going for a drive in the country - in the hills outside of Bundaberg - sort of woody hills. "If you go down to the woods today; you're sure of a big surprise"...

Funny how the Teddy Bear's Picnic lyrics does not mention anything about a late model 2A - broad headlight Shorty jumping out from around a corner at you. My stopping, the owner being there and a vehicle just happening to be for sale! So next weekend or so it will be following me home.

Now is the time for the Land Rover purists to look away. The 2A has had a Toyota diesel fitted to it. I am unsure of which one though, my guess - without knowing where to look for the location of engine numbers; and my being even less aware about Toyota diesel motors - first thoughts is that it is a 2.4 litre out of a 1980-90's Hilux.

The 2A has also been fitted with differential innards from a Range Rover - unknown year. All the modifications were officially "Blue Plated" by Queensland Transport. "It was going when it was parked" - a couple of years ago.

The chassis is straight and appears unmolested by rust. No big chunks taken out of the chassis or cross-member.

Has anyone come across that brand and configuration of locking hubs before. Apparently, there is a special spanner or tool that is used to engage two bolts that lock and unlock the hub. The hubs look like they are on steroids - also made "when things were built to last".

The light affected the colour when I took the photographs on my less than smart phone - under the moss and algae appears a light green colour.

I will be able to provide more detail once the Shorty is picked up and transported home.

Anyway, I will keep you posted on events - the arrival of the shorty. My wife not speaking to me for a while just after the utterance of "You bought another Land Rover - OMG!!!! It was just an innocent drive in the woods. It's name is "Teddy" and it followed me home.... :0)

Kind Regards
Lionel

[pop058]

Great find. I know someone with a car trailer if "Teddy" needs a lift. [thumbsupbig]

[Don 130]

A quick search revealed this (http://www.willystech.com/wt/cutlasshub/cutlasshub.htm)
Nice find by the way[smilebigeye]

Don

[Lionelgee]

A quick search revealed this (http://www.willystech.com/wt/cutlasshub/cutlasshub.htm)
Nice find by the way[smilebigeye]

Don

Hello Don,

Thank you very much for finding the link to the information about the hubs. It is very much appreciated. The hubs must be of a great vintage.

Do you have any history with these hubs Don? I did not get a chance to look for any brand on the hub - just a quick click of the camera on my very basic mobile. So I did not know where to start searching other than "locking hub". Thank you for finding the exact item.

The Specification Sheet for the hub features the "Jeep" trademark. I did a search on the web and it links them to CJ-5 or Civilian Jeep - 5 of the 1960s.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Great find. I know someone with a car trailer if "Teddy" needs a lift. [thumbsupbig]

G'day Paul,

Funny how there was something on my "To Do" list that escaped me for a while. What was it? Hmmm - it was to contact Paul.

Any plans for next weekend; or a tad thereafter?

Kind Regards
Lionel

[goingbush]

The engine looks to be a 3.0 Liter B model from a LandCruiser BJ40 or Dyna, Def not a Hilux engine.

(not to be confused with a 3B which is 3.2L )


I've had a few of these . I'll try to dig up photo from some of my old Tojos

EDIT , Actually the horizontal air intake in the inlet manifold rather than Vertical means its from a Dyna (underseat location) or could be a 2B from a Coaster . my bet is its from a Dyna .

[Lionelgee]

Hello All.

Thanks to Don's diligence I am off searching for more information about the hubs. A Jeep forum had a copy of a 1968 advertisement for what looks like a match to the one I snapped a photograph of. As my photograph shows it looks like Teddy's hubs need some seal work done to it too. The photograph of the 1968 brochure was sourced from 1968 Cutlass Locking hubs Brochure - Jeep Willys World (http://jeepwillysworld.com/blog/2015/01/22/1968-cutlass-locking-hubs-brochure) on May 12, 2018.

More chasing up on Toyota diesels. The spooky thing is that when I drove back into town from my adventures to buy some dinner there was a very pristine 1980-90 Toyota Hilux right next to where I parked. A Toyota 2.4D. With the benefit of time I remember driving one when I was with Ipswich City Council Parks and Gardens some time in the late 1980s.

Can anyone give me some hints where Toyota diesel engine numbers lurk?

After that - what size batteries do they use? Teddy is currently battery-less. From the look of the battery frame it is a lot smaller that the Century N70ZZ 4wd battery I have on hand.

Thanks you for the assistance.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[goingbush]

This is a 3.0L Toyota B engine, from my BJ40 , about 1978 , pretty sure yours is a Dyna because of the inlet manifold

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/187.jpg

[trout1105]

I had a set of those hubs on an old G60 I used to have, You can use a 20c coin to operate them [thumbsupbig]

[Lionelgee]

This is a 3.0L Toyota B engine, from my BJ40 , about 1978 , pretty sure yours is a Dyna because of the inlet manifold

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/187.jpg

Hello Going Bush,

Thank you for the possible identification as a Dyna sourced engine. As I mentioned before - my knowledge of Toyota Diesels is very - very limited.

It being a Dyna could explain why the Century Battery search kept bring it back to a N70ZZ which is physically way too big for the frame I saw today. I will visit Century's site again and type in "Dyna" - see what it throws up!

Attached is a photograph I took of a sticker at the front of the motor - maybe the code means something to you? As I am in the dark as to what it stands for. It could just mean that someone had a sticker and they wanted a place to put it.

Hmmm - looks like all the Century batteries searches all led back to N70ZZ.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I just checked the battery that I bought for my 2.25 litre diesel for the 1976 LWB ute I own.The battery looks approximately the same size as the frame in Teddy that I saw this afternoon. My old battery is a Century 12V 540CCA 57.

The dimensions of the 540CCA 57 are:

Length: 231mm
Width: 171mm
Height: 184mm
Total Height: 208mm

While the N70ZZ is shown as:
Length: 306mm
Width: 171mm
Height: 201mm
Total Height: 222mm

Just going off the size of the battery frame alone - it looks like it leaning towards the 540CCA 57.

Going off the size of a battery frame is pretty bodgey - however, there was no battery in the vehicle. I would like to have a go at getting the engine started when I pick it up. With the shorty currently sitting on another property having an engine number that would help nail the battery down is a luxury I do not currently have. At least I know it will fit into my Series 3 4 cylinder!

Kind Regards
Lionel

[goingbush]

The correct battery for a Toyota B , 3B is a N70Z or most Toyotas & LandRovers for that matter, dosen't really matter does not mean you need the correct battery . I even have a N70ZZ in my Iveco.
The biggest battery you can get to fit the battery holder will work. These engines need a good 30 seconds on the glow plugs before they start . & a can of "start ya bastard" will help too.

The engine number is on the top of the block between cylinders 1 and 2 , you should be able to see it looking down through the inlet manifold .

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I am kicking myself about not taking more photographs of the engine. Then again buying another Land Rover was not on my radar when I woke up this morning.

I do recall that the dip stick was all metal - not a plastic yellow handle like I have seen on some YouTube videos of Toyota diesel motors. Plus the dip stick was closer to the firewall than what I have seen on videos. The difference could mean an older version of the motor.

Damn I have to wait a full week before I can go for a drive to check it out. Patience is not one of my virtues!

Thank you for the tip about where the engine number is Going Bush.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

A couple of firsts for me when I have bought a Land Rover Series vehicle:
All the seats are there - okay slightly chewed on their tops
It has a jack.
Has a roll bar fitted
Has a Safari roof
It is 21 inches shorter than any of my other Land Rovers
Modifications have been officially "Blue Plated"
Plus, it has one of these things ...

Kind Regards
Lionel

[123rover50]

Hello All.

Thanks to Don's diligence I am off searching for more information about the hubs. A Jeep forum had a copy of a 1968 advertisement for what looks like a match to the one I snapped a photograph of. As my photograph shows it looks like Teddy's hubs need some seal work done to it too. The photograph of the 1968 brochure was sourced from 1968 Cutlass Locking hubs Brochure - Jeep Willys World (http://jeepwillysworld.com/blog/2015/01/22/1968-cutlass-locking-hubs-brochure) on May 12, 2018.

More chasing up on Toyota diesels. The spooky thing is that when I drove back into town from my adventures to buy some dinner there was a very pristine 1980-90 Toyota Hilux right next to where I parked. A Toyota 2.4D. With the benefit of time I remember driving one when I was with Ipswich City Council Parks and Gardens some time in the late 1980s.

Can anyone give me some hints where Toyota diesel engine numbers lurk?

After that - what size batteries do they use? Teddy is currently battery-less. From the look of the battery frame it is a lot smaller that the Century N70ZZ 4wd battery I have on hand.

Thanks you for the assistance.

Kind Regards
Lionel

Hi Lionel.
I have the same type of hub on the rear of the 6x6 but mine are made by Shute Upton. The seal is a simple O ring and easy to replace.
I also had them on my 1963 Woomera ambulance that I went around Oz in back in 67 . They seemed a good hub, simple and gave no trouble.
Here is a link to an old thread. Removing Free Wheeling Hubs and Taking Back to Original (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-iii/252117-removing-free-wheeling-hubs-taking-back-original-2.html)
Just remember that both cams have to be turned so both arrows are in or out. If only one is engaged the housing is likely to fracture.

Good Luck .
Keith

[pop058]

I run a 92 Dyna 200 with the 3lt B series engine as my work truck so you can have a squiz at that if it help ID what you have although, as GB said engine number answers all.

[pop058]

G'day Paul,

Funny how there was something on my "To Do" list that escaped me for a while. What was it? Hmmm - it was to contact Paul.

Any plans for next weekend; or a tad thereafter?

Kind Regards
Lionel

Next weekend (19th) is a SLOw trip to Cooyar but after that sometime is fine.

[gromit]

Nice find Lionel.

Size isn't everything....The Shute Upton version of the freewheel hubs you have fitted is reputed to be quite weak. Locking hubs (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-ii-and-iia/138430-locking-hubs.html)

I think Shute Upton made the Power Lock hubs under licence.



Colin

[incisor]

pretty sure i have a brand new set in a box here somewhere

just where may be the issue :p


Hello All.

Thanks to Don's diligence I am off searching for more information about the hubs. A Jeep forum had a copy of a 1968 advertisement for what looks like a match to the one I snapped a photograph of. As my photograph shows it looks like Teddy's hubs need some seal work done to it too. The photograph of the 1968 brochure was sourced from 1968 Cutlass Locking hubs Brochure - Jeep Willys World (http://jeepwillysworld.com/blog/2015/01/22/1968-cutlass-locking-hubs-brochure) on May 12, 2018.

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Well it is dark outside now; so that means one day closer to picking up Teddy .... [bigwhistle] I am patient ... I am patient...

Kind Regards
Lionel

[donh54]

Had those, or similar, hubs on my old 2a. Never any problems, but I was warned by the PO to make certain both screw locks were locked when using them. It had a simple piece of flat bar, bent to an L shape with the end ground to fit the slots. Great find!

[1950landy]

My father ad those FWH on his S3 , when he bought the hubs they came with a L shaped flat bar to engage . Only problem he had with them saw they were hard to engage some times , you needed to be on flat ground so you could roll the vehicle by hand so everything lined up, apart from that they seamed to be very strong.

[FV1601]

My daily driver for 10 years was a S3 LWB with a Toyota B motor. I think it was 3 li.
The electric fuel shut off system used to stop the engine was never hooked up by whomever converted it, it was a simple pull the lever/cable system for off, and yes the plugs took sometime to warm up, had the old tractor style glowing wire to show when the plugs were up to temp.
It had high range diffs and a lower transfer case ratio so off road performance was not affected.
Early on I noticed a set of inch steel blocks added to the front bump stops, in my quest for better of road performance I removed these and on the test run put the tail shaft uni. through the bottom of the oil filter. A major bill followed...
Engine braking was superb, but the gear box never really seemed to cope with it, steep descents always saw one hand on the wheel, other hand fighting the gear stick to stop it slipping into neutral. Apparently the S2 gearbox would have been more suited, probably cheaper than rebuilding the box as often as I did.
Difficult to keep an exhaust intact as well, fixed this by fabricating header pipes and a short stainless system.
The adaptor plate to the Landy gearbox was a work of art.
It really was very capable off road, just kept plugging away and doing the job, cruising speed was 100kmh, but any faster was very hard work.
Twice I fluffed gear changes on steep climbs and managed to get the diesel running in reverse, blue exhaust smoke coming out of the Donaldson air cleaner, heaps of reverse gears and not many forward.
Interesting to see how you go with it.
Have fun.
Rich.

[Lionelgee]

My daily driver for 10 years was a S3 LWB with a Toyota B motor. I think it was 3 li.
The electric fuel shut off system used to stop the engine was never hooked up by whomever converted it, it was a simple pull the lever/cable system for off, and yes the plugs took sometime to warm up, had the old tractor style glowing wire to show when the plugs were up to temp.
It had high range diffs and a lower transfer case ratio so off road performance was not affected.
Early on I noticed a set of inch steel blocks added to the front bump stops, in my quest for better of road performance I removed these and on the test run put the tail shaft uni. through the bottom of the oil filter. A major bill followed...
Engine braking was superb, but the gear box never really seemed to cope with it, steep descents always saw one hand on the wheel, other hand fighting the gear stick to stop it slipping into neutral. Apparently the S2 gearbox would have been more suited, probably cheaper than rebuilding the box as often as I did.
Difficult to keep an exhaust intact as well, fixed this by fabricating header pipes and a short stainless system.
The adaptor plate to the Landy gearbox was a work of art.
It really was very capable off road, just kept plugging away and doing the job, cruising speed was 100kmh, but any faster was very hard work.
Twice I fluffed gear changes on steep climbs and managed to get the diesel running in reverse, blue exhaust smoke coming out of the Donaldson air cleaner, heaps of reverse gears and not many forward.
Interesting to see how you go with it.
Have fun.
Rich.

Hello Rich,

Well it took me a fair few scrolls of the "zoom out" in Google Map before I could geographically place where Barnawartha, Victoria actually is. My closest landmark was 1:45 hours drive away - Wagga Wagga. I was born in Temora - NSW - yep not far from Wagga Wagga.

Thank you for the insight into how to handle a Toyota "B" motor installed into a Series LWB - it should make the motor being installed in a SWB that much more interesting!

I had a single cylinder trail bike that started the wrong side of Top Dead Centre once. I had refilled from a fuel can I had stored in a pannier bag; while I was on the side of the road, in the middle of nowhere. I put the bike into gear and let the clutch out. I was quite surprised when the motorbike went into reverse! I immediately stopped the engine. After my heartbeat returned to normal I started the bike again and everything was fine. It would have been a long walk pushing the bike into the next town too.

Since my new-to-me vehicle has been sitting for some time there is a fair chance that it needs the diesel primed. I do not know if there is any fuel in the tank and whether the fuel lines are all dry. I do not have a workshop manual for the engine yet.

Do the B motors need to be primed all the way through to the injectors? With my Land Rover 2.25 litre four cylinder diesel I have had to only prime through the two priming points before the injectors. I was also lucky enough to have an electric fuel pump installed. All I had to do was open the first bleed screw until the fuel flow was steady - then repeated it with the second bleed screw.

I intend hooking up a similar electric fuel pump when I go to start the new vehicle. Where are the priming points for the B motor?

Do you have any photographs of your old vehicle?

Kind Regards
Lionel

[FV1601]

Hi Lionel, not hard to find Barnawartha, situated on the picturesque Hume Freeway as we are..
I passed the S3 on back in 2000, can't remember if I ever had to bleed it, I was paranoid about running out because I did not know how to bleed fuel systems back then.
Carried some ridiculous weights in the old girl, but always struggled with it being a 3 seater and needing 5.
I was running 8.25x16's on the road at one stage, increased the cruising speed to a comfortable 110kph, but the aerodynamics meant that the extra fuel used to get the there negated any saving
Pre digital age, so photos are buried somewhere, but will see what I have handy.
Regards from another MLU'er
Rich.

[goingbush]

I intend hooking up a similar electric fuel pump when I go to start the new vehicle. Where are the priming points for the B motor?



You don't need an electric pump . There is a mechanical lift pump built into the Injector pump.
The hand priming pump is the round knob thing on the side of the injector pump .

Depending on model you may need to unscrew the primer knob & it will pop up , otherwise just pump it . (Park it again when bled)

Bleed screw is on top of the fuel filter housing at upper front left of engine, Loosen the screw with a 10mm spanner & pump the primer until all the air is bled out . thats it , no need to bleed the injectors.

[goingbush]

The bleed screw is on top of the banjo exiting the filter.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/219.jpg

[goingbush]

Also note the big B cast into the Block , This is a 3 litre B , there is a 3.0L 2B as used in Coaster and 3B 3.2L and 3BT 3.2 Turbo

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/220.jpg

[goingbush]

Attached is a photograph I took of a sticker at the front of the motor - maybe the code means something to you? As I am in the dark as to what it stands for. It could just mean that someone had a sticker and they wanted a place to put it.


Kind Regards
Lionel

Notice the Daihatsu logo on your sticker , these Toyota engines are infact made by Daihatsu.

similar sticker in a photo of my old BJ40 engine. ( Toyota B )

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/222.jpg

[goingbush]

I previously said engine number was found between 1 &2 , its actually 3 & 4 , also notice the Diahatsu logo cast into inlet manifold.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/221.jpg

[AK83]

My dad had a IIa LWB for a while.
My favourite car, and what got me into LR too.
Originally had a 6cyl that continually burned valves, and dad had it converted to a Toyota 6cyl diesel.
Bloody atrocious thing it turned out to be.
used to breathe heavily and fill the cabin with diesel/kero like eye burning smoke.
Screamed it's head off at 80k/h, gearing wasn't updated to make better use of the additional low down grunt.
As I remember it, 3lt 6cyl, apparently out of a forklift.
Bodge artist that did the conversion cut the front cross member turned it upside down and siliconed the steering relay to what remained of the chassis!
Unfortunately I was driving(then about 18-19yo) and coming to a turn under the west gate bridge when the car went dead straight! :bat:
Steering had just enough bite to get me home(2klms) at about 20 k/h. I only had to negotiate one RH 90° turn, and if it made it through that I was home and hosed.
Dad went off his nut, blaming me .. till I showed him the awesome (non)weld job the useless engine converter chap had done!
Turned out it was much worse than what I thought which was the relay hanging by a wire thread. The entire front chassis, forward of the cross member, spring hanger and all, had to be cut, braced and re welded.

I much preferred driving it when it had the much smoother 6cyl engine. I knew and still know zero about LR/engines back then, but dad reckons that 6cyl HAD TO GO!
Nothing but troubles according to him.
Funny tho, in the end the motor that gave him more trouble than any other have been both his Toyota diesels.
The 6cyl in the IIa seized, and his 60 Series 4.2 non turbo VX Cruiser just became uneconomical due to oil consumption and leaking!
But he'll defend their reliability till he's blue in the face .. won't believe a word of a reliable landrover engine [bighmmm]

Anyhow. enjoy your new ride.

[Lionelgee]

Hello Going Bush,

Thank you for posting up the photographs of the B engine and for putting the arrows and labels pointing at the pertinent parts. Also, for clarifying the position of the engine number between cylinders 3 and 4; plus the side casting of "B".

Thank you Arthur, Rich, and Yarnmaster for your insight in driving these vehicles. The previous owner of my latest acquisition is a lady of the land who is in her late 70s. Yes, she did more than just drive it to church on Sundays - it was running when it was parked too. Hmmm

Oh well another dark sleep is just about here; so that must mean a day closer to getting the vehicle home [smilebigeye]

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I am pretty sure that I mentioned earlier in this thread the patience is a hard won virtue- with me it is anyway.

A colleague just happens to have a 200 Series Toyota Landcruiser. Their husband was back home after coming back from the mines - drive in - drive out. So after we picked up a car trailer we went into the hills and picked up Teddy. With the bartering system still being active here I helped my colleague's spouse by giving them a hand with their boat. So it was dark by the time I got back home to where Teddy is happily parked now.

Today I bought a decent length of fuel line, numerous hose clamps and various fittings - just in case.

I poured diesel into Teddy's very dry diesel tank. I looked pensively at the ground below the tank and .... there were diesel leaks!

Following Going Bush's advice and photographs I began using the priming pump. It became pretty obvious that if there are seals or o-rings in the manual primer pump they had vacated the premises a long time ago. I then fell back on to the auxiliary electric fuel circuit that a previous owner had installed in one of my other diesel Land Rovers.

I initially bypassed the hand primer with a length of the new fuel hose and made a by-pass system so that one branch could be pressurised by the electric pump. Alternatively, the diesel could be drawn from the fuel tank once the system had been bled and the engine was running by itself.

The old electric fuel pump from my other Land Rover has sat idle for a couple of years and its performance was not overly impressive. I decided to give the pump a ago and I cracked open the bleeder bolt. I left the electric pump ticking over while I took the dogs for a walk in the paddock. Upon my return there was a constant trickle of diesel. I snipped the bleeder bolt closed and since the diesel tank, the fuel filter and all the lines had been left dry by the previous owner - I cracked open the injector nuts until they had diesel flowing out of them too. Next thing I turned the key and after some shaking and shuddering the engine sprung to life and commenced ticking over at very steady idle.

Since it was dark by then I left the engine running while I cleaned and put away my tools. The next challenge was to work out how to turn the diesel off. Being an older diesel it had a pull out knob which controlled the shut-off cable. During the pick up I did not think about asking the previous owner's son about what switch, lever or knob does what. Moving the throttle cable the opposite of its normal acceleration movement only resulted in slowing the engine down to a very slow pulse - not a complete stop. So I went inside the cab and shone the torch around in places I had not checked before in the daylight. This torchlight search resulted in my finding some switches and a knob tucked in a recess just to the right-hand side of the heater unit. The switches when flicked appeared to do absolutely nothing. The black knob I hoped would be able to be pulled towards me. After a tentative bit of experimentation and while listening for possible disasters looming at my operating a control I know nothing about .... the engine stopped in a very civilised manner.

While I was cleaning my tools I kept the engine ticking away. Previously, I had turned off the electric auxiliary pump and the engine was drawing its own fuel and did not miss a beat.

With the electrical loom being like a snake's nest, I had found at a wire that tested out as having power on regardless of whether the ignition was turned on or off. This wire was coiled around the fuel pipe and constantly live! It is now feeding the power into the toggle switch that I use to turn the auxiliary fuel pump on and off. Just in case there are more of these constantly live wires lurking in Teddy I am going to grab a torch and go out and disconnect the new battery.

Earlier in the day I had tried fitting a N70ZZ into the battery compartment however it was way too large. The previous owner who shoe-horned the Toyota diesel into the Shortie had to grind some of the metal from the battery holder otherwise the fins of the alternator would chew into it. This meant I had to get a battery the same dimensions of the battery I used to run on the Series 3 four cylinder 2.25 litre diesel - a "56" Century battery with 550 crank. I scoped the range of batteries on display at a local car parts place and I bought a 660 crank battery that had the same dimensions as the old Series 3 Land Rover battery. With this sized battery there is some free space between the alternator's fins and the battery.

Now that I know that Teddy starts and runs I will be off to the car parts place and get new oils and filters. Next after that is to sort out the clutch hydraulics - then scope out the brakes. Neither brakes or clutch currently work.

I will take photographs and collect engine and chassis numbers tomorrow, and post them up.

Disappointingly, the camera did not work during Teddy's pick up so there are no photographs of the auspicious event.

Well that it is it for now. I might just have to start the motor again and let it run for a while before disconnecting the battery.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I am back from the dark and the battery is recharging after it having a hard first day. Another of tomorrow's tasks will be to chase the glow plug circuit and find out which switch controls it. I started the engine before I disconnected the battery and it was not an easy cold start without glow plugs.

I checked the radiator overflow bottle and I was very surprised at how clean the green coolant was. I had intended dropping the coolant and replacing it tomorrow. The engine oil definitely needs replacing.

Once I write down the engine number I will start tracking down a parts manual so I can order the parts the manual primer needs. There is only a small amount of space between the engine and the sides of the engine bay which means the manual primer has to be access from the radiator side. There is no room to extend an arm straight down onto the priming pump's head. Hopefully there is enough clearance for the priming pump to be able to come off to be repaired.

The great thing is that I can just walk outside, go through a couple of gates and I am able to have a squiz at Teddy. Who knows tomorrow night Teddy may be sitting in the house paddock where the Land Rovers which run and stop under their own power are parked. You know the vehicles where their engine runs, the gears, clutch and brakes work.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I just had a squiz on eBay and if the B Series engine fitted to a Dyna is similar to the Landcruiser; then it looks like the manual priming pump is a complete unit. The old one screws off and a new complete unit screws in. Or there is a choice of replacing "O" rings and restoring the old unit.

I will have to check the engine number and do some more research to be able to sort out what engine I definitely have fitted - tomorrow.

After consulting the Oracle ... Wikipedia it describes how Toyota B series engines were fitted to:

Land Cruiser 40
Dyna 3rd, 4th, 5th generation
Toyoace 5th generation
Daihatsu Delta V9/V12-series
1978-19?? Hino Ranger 2 (V10)

Accessed May 19, 2018 from, Toyota B engine - Wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_B_engine#B)
Kind Regards
Lionel

[goingbush]

Congrats, you didn't mention if you warmed the glow plugs before starting . if you started without the glow plugs you got a ripper engine there. These normally need a bit of pre heat.

because your inlet manifold has a horizontal air inlet , rather than vertical in a cruiser, I'll wager its from a forward control/ underseat location , which means Coaster / Dyna or Delta .

the lift primer pump should unscrew and be substituted for another from a B / 3B , maybe even a H / 2H (6 cylinder version) will fit

TOYOTA LANDCRUISER B 2B 3B DIESEL FUEL PRIMER PUMP BJ40 BJ42 BJ73 BJ74 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-LANDCRUISER-B-2B-3B-DIESEL-FUEL-PRIMER-PUMP-BJ40-BJ42-BJ73-BJ74/151503397487?hash=item23464e626f:g:K~AAAOSw2XFUgc~ k)

[rar110]

Great find Lionel.

I met a bloke who had an early Range Rover with the same motor. Maybe someone in Qld was doing conversions.

I should have bought that Rangy, was only about $3k.

[Lionelgee]

Congrats, you didn't mention if you warmed the glow plugs before starting . if you started without the glow plugs you got a ripper engine there. These normally need a bit of pre heat.

because your inlet manifold has a horizontal air inlet , rather than vertical in a cruiser, I'll wager its from a forward control/ underseat location , which means Coaster / Dyna or Delta .

the lift primer pump should unscrew and be substituted for another from a B / 3B , maybe even a H / 2H (6 cylinder version) will fit

TOYOTA LANDCRUISER B 2B 3B DIESEL FUEL PRIMER PUMP BJ40 BJ42 BJ73 BJ74 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-LANDCRUISER-B-2B-3B-DIESEL-FUEL-PRIMER-PUMP-BJ40-BJ42-BJ73-BJ74/151503397487?hash=item23464e626f:g:K~AAAOSw2XFUgc~ k)

Hello Going Bush,

I reckon I can safely say I got the engine started without glow-plugs. The main reason for this confidence became obvious when I lifted the bonnet so I could fill up the dry clutch reservoir. While I waited to see if there was any fluid pouring out of the much fixed by epoxy-resin tin reservoir I looked over the motor. There is a thin metal rail that joins the glow-plugs together. It terminates near the firewall with a connection point from which a blue wire emerges. The other end of the blue wire is finished off as an eyelet fitting - so it can be bolted down onto something. I followed the wire I traced it back to where it is laying down on top of a recess that runs parallel with the glow-plug rail. I found that the wire is not connected to anything at all. It looks like it has been this way for a long time too.

Having found the engine number I did some midnight internet searching. There is a webs-forum where a bloke has developed an engine serial number decoder and other people have contributed. All the serial numbers were 7 digits long starting with 029. The web-writer's engine number is 0294407 mine is 0299706 - yes a difference of 5299. However, it lets me know that having a serial identification made up of all numbers and no letters was not a mistake when I looked at it last night. The web-writer notes his engine build date as July 1979. While being far from definitive it least it gives me a ball park figure that my engine could have been made in either late 1979 or 1980 - as a guestimate.

The website is B-series & H-series landcruiser Engine-Serial-Number/VIN-Number thread | IH8MUD Forum (https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/b-series-h-series-landcruiser-engine-serial-number-vin-number-thread.393760)

Of well off to play with the clutch hydraulics - wonder how much fluid is left in the tin?

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I had a closer look at the 109 that came fitted with a 2.25 litre diesel as standard. The previous owner had installed an extra fuel tank and it was mounted under the passenger seat. On the wall of the seat-box he mounted a lever operated tap that all was installed with feeds from each tank. The auxiliary electric fuel pump allowed fuel to be transferred between tanks. The auxiliary pump was established as a bypass system so that the engine could draw fuel without the extra pump being used.

I got some more of Teddy's story the farmer converted the Land Rover to the Toyota diesel and it became his wife's car. The car was kept in the family for a while than it was sold to a "young fella". After some travels the young fella upgraded to a new Defender and offered to sell the vehicle back to the farming family and they bought it back. While the young fella had the vehicle he took out the extra fuel tank tank that had been installed under the passenger seat. Once I can source another tank I will set the system up like is in my 109 diesel.

The thing is - are Land Rover fuel tanks a standard size between Series 2A and Series 3? Also, are fuel tanks the same size between short wheel base and long wheel base? My spare tanks are all Series 3 and out of long wheel bases.

Well I am off to bleed a clutch. If that does not work I will be off to replace the master and slave cylinder - then off to bleed a clutch. I will leave the new master and slave cylinder up in the house - since I am an optimist - teehee.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Apparently there was another alternative - what under the influence of gravity did not show up as even the slightest of drips turns into a constant stream once the pressure bleeder is attached and pumped up. There is a hole in the bottom of the reservoir. Hence, it being bone dry when I first inspected it last week. I do have a plastic reservoir that I had unsuccessfully attempted to fit on my Series 3 diesel. However, the thread on the nut that screws to the bottom of the reservoir must be Imperial and the new reservoir's thread is Metric.

No clutch and brake parts places are open on a Sunday so I cannot go into town and buy spare parts. Namely, a new length of pipe to which I can fit a Metric hex nut to the reservoir end. Then still have an Imperial thread going into the clutch master cylinder. Bugger - looks like the inaugural drive is off the agenda for this weekend.

I will go into town and buy some oil and filters. At least I will get the engine oil changed.

Interestingly, I could not fit the new plastic reservoir to my Series 3 because the original part had the outlet branching off at a right angle horizontally towards the bottom of the tank. My replacement had the outlet positioned vertically from the dead centre of the bottom of the tank and it featured a very long thread. No matter how I tried to adjust it the top of the reservoir always fouled the bonnet when it was closed.

Apart from the thread miss-match the reservoir that I bought for the Series 3 would fit quite well in the 2A because the tin reservoir had its outlet coming out vertically from the dead centre at the bottom of the tank too. Them's the breaks I suppose!

Kind Regards
Lionel

[JDNSW]

1. Fuel tanks. There are two sizes, the original '10 gallon' and the later '15gallon' 'L' shaped tank. The first was standard on Series 2,2a and 3 both long and short, although there were detail differences over time, they are all interchangeable. Left and right tanks are mirror image, and interchanging them involves moving the filler and vent spouts. The larger tank was introduced as an option some time during S3 production, and requires the outrigger at the front of the tank to be moved. It may have become standard in very late S3 production, at least in Australia.

2. Hydraulic reservoir. Series 2,2a and Series 3 without booster used a dual reservoir for brakes and clutch, with the clutch using the smaller (inner) one of the reservoirs through a fitting on the bottom, with the brakes using a fitting on the side. Series 2/2a and very early 3 used a metal reservoir with metal pipes. Most of S3 used a nylon reservoir, with a metal connector on the bottom and a hose tail on the side.

When a brake booster was adopted, with a mast cylinder having an integral reservoir, the early ones of these retained a remote reservoir for the clutch, but used a nylon reservoir with only one compartment. Later S3 with boosted brakes used a clutch master cylinder with an integral reservoir, and many clutches on earlier models have been converted to this as they are easier to find - the most common one on trailers!

As you have found, early parts used UNF threads (possibly even BSF on S2), but changed to metric for late S3 production.

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Well I went into town and bought the oil and filters. That is about all I achieved today.

A couple of years ago I especially imported an American brand of pressure bleeder. After I finished using it the last time I cleaned all the brake fluid out and rinsed all the lines as per the manufacturer's recommendations. The unit has been stored in the shed out of UV light and stored dry. Today, when I was pressurising the system with brake fluid in it one of the clear poly lines split and I had a geyser of brake fluid cascading down. I will be replacing all the lines before I try and use the unit again.

My replacement reservoir is also a non-standard size which means a "one size fits all" unit which has a non-threaded cap with a very large cone shaped washer has to be used with the pressure bleeder. A chain then goes around body of the reservoir and is secured to the cap by tightening two "J" bolts. The unit's one-size-fits-nothing cap should have four sets of "J" bolts and chains so the reservoir can be kept centred.

Frustrating would sum today up. All due to non-Land Rover related equipment failure. This relates to the pressure hose splitting and an "after-market" reservoir with some form of fine thread which is compatible only with itself.

Plans forward from here - I will remove the 2A CV style clutch master cylinder and replace it with a Series 3 TRW brand of OEM clutch master cylinder. The bleeder kit has a proper threaded cap the fits the Series 3 reservoir.

I will check each joint's threads all the way back to the slave cylinder. Somewhere along the line I will no doubt have to have a piece of brake pipe that has a metric fitting one end for the flex tube to joint to and have an imperial threaded hex fitting which can then screw into the Series 2A slave cylinder.

Well at least I got Teddy started... even if it was yesterday.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Thanks John for your detailed information about the fuel tank sizes. I have a couple that need repair. One of them has to have the drain plug and surrounds secured by a radiator repairer. When I got the one of my other vehicles it always dripped from the fitting. I went to tighten the thread and it must have been only finger tight because within the first turn it fell on the floor. Another tank had a wall of mud from the side of the outrigger to the side of the tank and it developed pin hole rust in a couple of spots. They may be candidates for fitting onto the shortie.

I am going to remove the troublesome remote reservoir out of the equation. I have a new TRW Series 3 clutch master cylinder which has the integrated reservoir. I will just have to buy some brake pipe and fit Metric to the master cylinder end and Imperial to the end of the flexible pipe that connects with the 2A slave cylinder. For some reason the after-market people made the outlet of the replacement nylon reservoir twice as long as the veteran tin pot's reservoir. This extra length - apart from its different thread - means it has to be installed on an angle; otherwise it hits the pedal box. It also means once I have new pipe for the pressure bleeder the has a cap that fits onto OEM reservoirs - no chains or "J" bolts for a one-size- fits-nothing model.

Does it seem like I am really "over" that after-market reservoir? Teehee!

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

While laying under the 2A I noticed the front shock absorbers. Old Man Emu Nitros. Then I took a closer look at them. Neither of the front shock absorbers had any bushings! Just the metal ring of the shock absorber and then lots of space until the threaded rod the shock absorber is bolted to. Lots and lots of room to move.

Then I checked the rear shock absorbers. I could not find any - nor any mounting points where shocks would go. This being my first Series 2A and my first short wheel base vehicle - were they fitted with rear shock absorbers?

The ride quality on the front would have been very interesting!

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello Going Bush and Others,

What is the oil capacity for the B Series Toyota diesel engine - with a new filter? As yet I do not have a manual for the engine so I am in the dark a bit.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[goingbush]

6 litres from memory, change every 3000 miles . Ryco filters are perfectly adequate ..

I dose the fuel with 100ml Moreys Diesel Smoke Killer 100ml every tankful, keeps fuel system healthy and helps control algae (diesel bug) . I do this in all my diesels , even modern CRD stuff .

[Lionelgee]

6 litres from memory, change every 3000 miles . Ryco filters are perfectly adequate ..

I dose the fuel with 100ml Moreys Diesel Smoke Killer 100ml every tankful, keeps fuel system healthy and helps control algae (diesel bug) . I do this in all my diesels , even modern CRD stuff .

Hello GoingBush,

Thank you for the information about the amount of oil. I wound up getting a 10 litre drum of 20w 60 anyway. Getting the clutch sorted out is going to take temporary priority away from the oil change.

The lure of being able to put the vehicle into gear and go for a drive. In the process of driving it will warm up the oil ready for a change - much more exciting than just letting the engine idle on the spot.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

After weathering the vagaries of 2A clutch slave cylinders. My experiencing a "gee I should have put that hex nipple on the brake pipe before I put the double flare on" moment or two. Oopsy - just as well I bought plenty of line and start again. Relining all the poly tube on the pressure bleeder. I gingerly brought the pressure bleeder up to the recommended 10 PSI and cracked the bleed nipple to see a nice golden stream of brake fluid and within short order - no bubbles. I screwed the bleed screw up.

Next thing.. it has been a week since I last started the engine.

After some trepidation, and with the auxiliary electric pump priming things I turned the key. No these engines do not like sitting for a week and starting cold. After the third session the motor kicked into life. Next thing - place foot on clutch and cross fingers. Gee with the high speed Range Rover differential centres first gear compared to my other Series 3 LWB Land Rovers is very fast. A quick circuit of the paddock followed. Then I parked near the shed and pumped the tyres up. It will be good to have brakes ... soon.


Next weekend will see me investigating the shock absorbers and also working on the brakes. When I first saw Teddy there was brake fluid in the reservoir. A couple of pumps of the brakes over the past two weeks and now there is no fluid in the master cylinder. I think I found the culprit for the brake master cylinder draining away. There is a stream of raised and blistering Limestone paint on the passenger side front rim that is very fresh. So next weekend I will be able to drive Teddy into the shed and have a nice concrete floor to work on. Electricity and a stable place to be able jack Teddy up - place on axle stands and find out the story of the brakes. Since Teddy has been fitted with a single circuit brake boosted out of a Series 3 - who knows it may have six cylinder size brakes fitted on each corner?

Oh and once Teddy has done some more laps of the paddock a full oil and filter change will happen too.

Well that is it for this weekend - I have to get scrubbed up and go out and be sociable.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Currently my 2A with the Toyota diesel has a set of Old Man Emu "Nitros" sitting without any bushes at the front. I discovered that the rear shocks and all their mounting points have been taken off. The rear shocks were then hidden away in the cargo area. I only found them a couple of days ago. Unfortunately, all the mounting points are not rattling around in the cargo area.

How good are Old Man Emu shock absorbers? Should I only aim for "Heavy Duty" shocks due to the 3 litre Series B Toyota being installed?

What other heavy duty style shock absorbers have other people run in their 2A shortie?

Kind Regards
Lionel

[gromit]

Lionel,
The top shock absorber mount is welded to the chassis with a long bolt through the centre so if someone has cut them off you'd have to get something turned up and welded in the correct position.
If it's the lower mount it's much easier as it's just a piece of round bar with a hole for the split pin and is welded to the plate that holds the springs against the axle.

Old Man Emu are made by Munroe for ARB. I'm sure somebody will always tell you there is something 'better'. I have them fitted to my Defender which I've had for about 18years and they still seem to work perfectly.

What is a 'heavy duty' shock absorber.......... Bigger diameter body, bigger piston rod, thicker tubing ??? Does it give better damping or it's just made bigger/stronger ?
I guess every manufacturer's idea of 'heavy duty' may differ.

A lot of damping on a leaf sprung vehicle is by the inter-leaf friction.



Colin

[Lionelgee]

Lionel,
The top shock absorber mount is welded to the chassis with a long bolt through the centre so if someone has cut them off you'd have to get something turned up and welded in the correct position.
If it's the lower mount it's much easier as it's just a piece of round bar with a hole for the split pin and is welded to the plate that holds the springs against the axle.

Old Man Emu are made by Munroe for ARB. I'm sure somebody will always tell you there is something 'better'. I have them fitted to my Defender which I've had for about 18years and they still seem to work perfectly.

What is a 'heavy duty' shock absorber.......... Bigger diameter body, bigger piston rod, thicker tubing ??? Does it give better damping or it's just made bigger/stronger ?
I guess every manufacturer's idea of 'heavy duty' may differ.

A lot of damping on a leaf sprung vehicle is by the inter-leaf friction.



Colin

Hello Colin,

Thank you for the pointers about where the shock absorber mounting points are. Armed with this information I grabbed a torch and found all four points. Passenger side is on the wheel arch side of the chassis with the top mounting point at roughly at the 10:00 o'clock mark. Driver's side at the 2:00 o'clock mark. The lower plates holding the leaf springs were found under vast quantities of mud, grease and other unsavoury company. The term "flogged out" springs to mind too. The rear shocks seem to have been off for very a long time.

Old Man Emu are Munroe's - that is interesting. I used to have them on my previous vehicles for years.

Thank you again for the information Colin

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

For the first time after a couple of months being up on axle stands, I have Teddy sitting on it own four wheels again. Teddy has been on front axles stands for the majority of time it has been home. I just have to replace the connecting pipe that attaches to the flexible pipe goes across the chassis and then connect to the main brake line on the passenger side. Then I can bleed the brakes.

Each corner now has new brake wheel cylinders.

I had to re-use the old brake shoes because the complete brake kit that I bought the week before I picked Teddy up from its previous owners were the wrong size. I just thought the brake wheel cylinders were the wrong fit - it included the shoes as well. Luckily for me I do have a six cylinder 2.6 petrol 109 ute that the the "kit" does fit so it only cost me time and inconvenience.

The wrong parts left Teddy on front axles stands while I waited for a set of TRM OEM brake wheel cylinders to arrive from England. All the front was sorted out on Saturday. This meant that there were four wheels on the ground overnight. The back wheels went up on axle stands this morning. By the afternoon new rear brake cylinders were fitted and four wheels were back on the ground again.

After working on the brakes I can see how Gavin only uses vice grips to take the shoes off. Once the right place is found and the correct leverage applied I was using vice grips to do the job too.

I am still waiting for the Series 2-3 glow plug ballast resistor to arrive. Who knows by next Sunday I could be driving Teddy around the paddock and be able to stop whenever I want.

After that will be delving into the electrical circuits to find out why none of the brake, tail, headlight and parking lights work.

Oh I will be ordering new shoes shortly. At least the bulk of the work is finished with the wheel cylinders being installed.

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Well I took the Shortie for a drive in the paddock today. I had put in the Land Rover Series glow plug ballast resistor and unfortunately the Toyota engine did not cooperate with it. The resistor definitely worked however it must not be supplying the voltage of 8.5 that the glow plugs need. Anyway, nothing was lost in the scheme of things except time as I now have a spare glow plug resistor for my 2.25 litre diesel Series 3.

So after the experiment I was left with a fully charged battery. I just kept cranking the engine over until it reached operating temperature. It then sprang to life.

As the next step towards coming to a glow circuit solution: I have tracked down a Queensland supplier of older Toyota engine parts so I will soon have a Toyota Glow Plug Relay and Glow plug controller on the way. Possibly a Toyota starter relay too. Not sure if I need to get a Toyota ignition switch or whether I can source the correct feed wires off the Land Rover ignition?

Hopefully with the genuine article the engine will be much more well behaved when it comes to starting.

I joined a Toyota forum and I was able to source full ignition and "glow" circuits which identifies all the parts. The big issue is that since the engine was made in August 1979 lots of parts are superseded. It took a while to track down the current parts numbers. I will let everyone know how things work out with the new Toyota glow plug circuit parts are installed. I am waiting for some advice from the parts supplier before I place the order. Then it will be interesting to see how quickly parts from Toowoomba take to get to Bundaberg.

The battery is on charge for tomorrow when I cold start the shortie up and drive it into the shed. I just need to put it back on axle stands; rejoin one steel brake pipe and then bleed the brake system.

Gee with the Toyota diesel and the Range Rover High speed differentials the shortie is fast even in second gear. I will be much more comfortable when I can put my foot on the brake pedal after tomorrow and have some brakes to slow down and come to a stop with!

To close - I got the engine started; I went for a blat in the paddock and I thoroughly enjoyed myself. It reminded me of why we slog away with the Series vehicles. They pay us back for the effort we spend on them.

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

After attempting to find a supplier for a specific part - the glow plug controller for the Toyota B1 Series diesel - my placing orders and then receiving "cannot supply" notices; I figure there is a bigger picture involved. The picture involves philosophies held by the manufacturers.

In one corner we have the Land Rover Series from 1948 to the 1984 where there were different "Series" from 1 - 2 - 2A - 3 and Series 3 Stage 1. The Meccano principle applied where there was a high degree of interchangeability between Series. Whereas, Toyota diesel engines from 1974-1980 seem to follow the philosophy of specificity and built-in obsolescence.

I have been in contact with a Toyota guru who luckily used to own a Series 2A Land Rover. I was recommended to buy a Series 1 push button ignition switch to use with the Toyota glow plug controllers. I was able to have a Series 1 ignition switch ordered and on its way to me within 10 minutes of starting to browse online. Meanwhile - with the Toyota part ... after posting requests on different glow plug controller suppliers sites I have to wait three days from making the initial request, only to be informed that the part is "no longer available". Fortunately, I might have managed to track down a second-hand one.

However, because I hold out some hope in being able to secure a brand new part - I wait for two more days for the reply from another Toyota supplier.

Have you ever had the feeling you are battling against unseen forces - ones that are the result in a difference of philosophies!

Anyone got either Toyota Part Number 28550-46021 or 28550-57010 tucked away in a draw that you no longer want to hang on to? The Land Rover ballast resistor PRC1716 unfortunately does not suit the Toyota glow plug system.

I wish to return to Land Rover Land... Today I am delving into the mysteries of what sort of parts have been installed in my non-hybrid, Land Rover ambulance .... what Series part is lurking under this part of the 2A skin? ..."there is no place like home".... there is no ...


Kind regards
Lionel

[goingbush]

Have you been to a tractor parts place.

Kubota glow plug electrics should work just fine with your B series , or a LR Diesel for that matter.

However instead of replacing my faulty Kubota glow plug relay I just used a Starter solenoid & held a push button in for 30 seconds . As suggested a Series 1 starter switch would also work just fine.

[gromit]

Lionel,

My Isuzu C240 uses the Land Rover glow plug resistor, I'll have to check what voltage the glow plugs are. About 8-10 seconds and she starts easily even on cold mornings.

Are your glow plugs still working ?

Colin

[Lionelgee]

Lionel,

My Isuzu C240 uses the Land Rover glow plug resistor, I'll have to check what voltage the glow plugs are. About 8-10 seconds and she starts easily even on cold mornings.

Are your glow plugs still working ?

Colin

Hello Colin,

Thank you for the details about the Isuzu being compatible with the Series glow plug resistor - part number PRC1716.

You did mention it previously in my other thread about Glow Relays and Starter Relays (Starter Solenoid or Glow Plug Relay are they different? (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/262878-starter-solenoid-glow-plug-relay-they-different-post2823454.html#post2823454)). So I went looking on my spare parts vehicles and found one.

Unfortunately the same convenience between Isuzu and Land Rover working on the glow plugs does not carry across to Toyota.

Also, yes the glow plugs are brand new. Once I manage to track down the proper Toyota glow plug controller I will test the new ones - well they are a couple of weeks old now. If I have to I will get a new batch - once the proper glow plug relay from Toyota comes along......

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

While checking something else on the shortie I glanced down at the driver's side rear wheel. I noticed a stream of fluid on the rim. Having a couple of male dogs I did a cautious test - only to find out that it was brake fluid. I fitted new set of OEM brake wheel cylinders last weekend - flushed the system and adjusted the brakes.

Nothing like taking a step forward and one backwards.

Oh well that was the only wheel which had a dicky brake snail. It turned the nut however it would not adjust the snail cam.

I have a new set of brake shoes on order so I have to access the drums anyway. Still it would have been nice not to have to touch a brand new brake cylinder.

P.S. I now have a set of snail brake adjusters on their way too.

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I had a delivery in the post this morning - the missing part, a genuine Toyota Glow Plug controller. I had to get one from New Zealand. A spare is on its way from the United Kingdom. Coupled with a Series I Land Rover Starter Button I may have a responsive glow plug system this weekend! Fingers crossed.

Interestingly, the Series 1 Land Rover starter button came from the UK, it was confirmed being available on the first instance and had no trouble being posted to Queensland. With other attempts at securing the Toyota part I had to place and order - pay for it in advance. Then wait three days for the supplier to let me know that the part was not available. This was accompanied for a wait for the money to be refunded. This process happened with multiple suppliers.

Just shows up the difference in philosophies between Toyota: built in obsolescence; and Land Rover Series making parts interchangeable and keeping their supply available.

Thank you Tom in New Zealand for selling me your long stored up spare Toyota parts. Tom by the way used to own a Series 2A shortie before going over to the BJ40 Land Cruiser. Tom is very active on diesel Land Cruiser forums and it was Tom's suggestion to use the Land Rover starter button.

Is it Saturday yet?

Kind regards
Lionel

[rangieman]

Hello All,

I had a delivery in the post this morning - the missing part, a genuine Toyota Glow Plug controller. I had to get one from New Zealand. A spare is on its way from the United Kingdom. Coupled with a Series I Land Rover Starter Button I may have a responsive glow plug system this weekend! Fingers crossed.

Interestingly, the Series 1 Land Rover starter button came from the UK, it was confirmed being available on the first instance and had no trouble being posted to Queensland. With other attempts at securing the Toyota part I had to place and order - pay for it in advance. Then wait three days for the supplier to let me know that the part was not available. This was accompanied for a wait for the money to be refunded. This process happened with multiple suppliers.

Just shows up the difference in philosophies between Toyota: built in obsolescence; and Land Rover Series making parts interchangeable and keeping their supply available.

Thank you Tom in New Zealand for selling me your long stored up spare Toyota parts. Tom by the way used to own a Series 2A shortie before going over to the BJ40 Land Cruiser. Tom is very active on diesel Land Cruiser forums and it was Tom's suggestion to use the Land Rover starter button.

Is it Saturday yet?

Kind regards
Lionel
Patience is a virtue my friend [thumbsupbig]
Well done [wink11]

[Lionelgee]

Patience is a virtue my friend [thumbsupbig]
Well done [wink11]

Hello Chris,

Patience "cough-splutter" is not one of my virtues. I just hope the waiting and effort to track the part down pays dividends and I have a well behaved motor.

I have other projects to keep me busy on the weekends - so waiting for the glow controller was not much of an effort. In the meantime the new brake shoes for the Toyota powered shortie have arrived.

I am still waiting for the new brake "snails" to arrive for the shortie - Teddy. The driver's side rear wheel's forward-facing snail failed to adjust the shoe. The snail nut-head just turns around without moving the snail. The brand new brake wheel cylinder on this wheel also has started to leak. More stuff to investigate.

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

The brake adjuster "snails" arrived in the post today. The glow plug controller arrived earlier in the week. It looks like I have this weekend planned out!

I will be off to the scrap metal place to buy some steel plate to make a fascia panel for the Land Rover Series 1 push starter button and for the glow plug controller. Then off to another place to get some brake pipe fittings. Fingers crossed that by the end of the weekend I will be able to start Teddy with ease and stop properly.

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I was able to hook up the new glow plug circuit for the Toyota 1B diesel powered Series 2A on Saturday. The circuit includes a genuine Toyota glow plug controller - a ballast resistor that was made specifically for the motor. I incorporated the recommended Series 1 push button starter.

I held the button down for the recommended time. I could see the glow plug controller coil glowing bright red. I then turned the ignition key to start. The engine started smoothly and sweetly.

I let the motor run for a while and then shut it down. After going to the butcher, a visit to some automotive places and a hardware store ... some hours had elapsed from the first start up of the day.

I went through the previously successful start up procedure. The glow plug controller glowed nicely after holding the button down for the recommended time. However, when I turned the ignition key to "Start" not so much as a fart came out of the motor. SNOT!

I do realise that my replication of the previous owner's circuit of a Ford four post starter solenoid that I attempted a month or so ago would have fed 12 volts instead of 8.5 volts to the new set of replacement glow plugs. This may have cooked the glow plugs and ruined them. The initial start up for the day could have just been a fluke.

Of course when I returned from the shops and attempted what proved to be an unsuccessful second start of the day it had just turned Noon and the Toyota dealer had just closed. SNOT by 2!!

I figured that instead of having an enjoyable - successful day I was having a frustrating Saturday. By then I was getting to be a pretty good match of Rick in the Young Ones; so I brought the day's activities to a close. Because the predicted rain came on Sunday and all my vehicles are currently stored out in the elements, I had the day off .... SNOT by 3

My hope is that all will be well with the circuit after I lash out for yet another set of new glow plugs. Coupled with the genuine Toyota glow plug controller the first start of the day and a restart some subsequent hours later on the same day will result in a more than a satisfactory outcome. You know my having a reliable way to start the motor whenever I want it to start.

I am starting to wonder if there are any differences between the glow plugs for a BJ40 Land Cruiser made in late 1979 with a 1B four cylinder diesel with 3.0 litres of capacity; and a similarly powered Dyna also made in late 1979. From what I can work out different glow plug vendors sell different glow plugs between a Dyna and a BJ40 Land Cruiser - then again some vendors list the same glow plugs for both models Dyna/BJ40. Or whether the 8.5 volt glow plugs for a 12 volt system the previous owner put in are even right for the engine. Could it be a 1B motor that was originally wired for a 24 volt system?

There you go I thought it would be so easy. The vehicle had been running for years. It was parked up for years - the person who fitted the Toyota motor is beyond earthly contact, so I cannot confer with them about what model the engine was sourced from; a Dyna or a BJ40 Land Cruiser.

Gee I will be glad when I get this starting issue sorted out - until then SNOT - SNOT - Snotty - SNOT. Apologies to Rick Mayall - as in Rick with a silent "P" in the Young Ones... accessed 27th August 2018 from, YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Mf_oX69FYs)

Maybe buying a green Series 2A was not the best of colours - if the engine keeps going the way it is then a name change could occur from Teddy to Snotty!
Kind regards
Lionel

[gromit]

Lionel,

I was surprised when you said the Land Rover resistor didn't work but if the glowplugs were burnt out that would explain it......
At the end of the day the resistance value may change but the LR & Toyota parts would be doing approximately the same thing....dropping the voltage.

Were the glowplugs 'aftermarket' or a known brand ? The reason I ask is that I had a bad experience with cheap glowplugs some years back on a Mitsubishi Delica. You could use them maybe 2 or 3 times then they burnt out, after a replacement set doing the same the vendor stumped up a set of 'name brand' glowplugs and the problem was solved.
With no working glowplugs on an indirect injection diesel white smoke thick enough to cut with a knife came from the exhaust. The diesel was almost at the point of ignition but not quite. A warm day it started after turning over several times and pushing out a lot of white smoke, a cold day and no chance of it starting.

Best of luck getting it sorted out.


Colin

[Lionelgee]

Lionel,

I was surprised when you said the Land Rover resistor didn't work but if the glowplugs were burnt out that would explain it......
At the end of the day the resistance value may change but the LR & Toyota parts would be doing approximately the same thing....dropping the voltage.

Were the glowplugs 'aftermarket' or a known brand ? The reason I ask is that I had a bad experience with cheap glowplugs some years back on a Mitsubishi Delica. You could use them maybe 2 or 3 times then they burnt out, after a replacement set doing the same the vendor stumped up a set of 'name brand' glowplugs and the problem was solved.
With no working glowplugs on an indirect injection diesel white smoke thick enough to cut with a knife came from the exhaust. The diesel was almost at the point of ignition but not quite. A warm day it started after turning over several times and pushing out a lot of white smoke, a cold day and no chance of it starting.

Best of luck getting it sorted out.


Colin

Hello Colin,

I have left the Land Rover circuit in place. I only re-routed the wires to the new Land Rover starter button and Toyota glow plug controller.

In the Technical Chatter Thread I asked about the starter solenoid as glow plug controller. I described the new glow plugs bought from the town's after market Toyota parts supplier were: a set of Terrain Tamer glow plugs. Written on the front of the packaging is DGP20014 8.5 V. Then on the back in larger writing is 19850-68030 where the last number is the Toyota part number. At $90+ for a set of four they were not cheapies. They are an Aussie company. Accessed 28th August 2018 from, Glow Plug Change (https://www.terraintamer.com/en/tv/milo-rebuild-videos/item/269-glow-plug-change).

I suspect that the glow plugs did not like the 12 volts they received from the old circuit instead of 8.5 volts the specifications suggest.

Kind regards
Lionel

[gromit]

Hello Colin,

I have left the Land Rover circuit in place. I only re-routed the wires to the new Land Rover starter button and Toyota glow plug controller.

In the Technical Chatter Thread I asked about the starter solenoid as glow plug controller. I described the new glow plugs bought from the town's after market Toyota parts supplier were: a set of Terrain Tamer glow plugs. Written on the front of the packaging is DGP20014 8.5 V. Then on the back in larger writing is 19850-68030 where the last number is the Toyota part number. At $90+ for a set of four they were not cheapies. They are an Aussie company. Accessed 28th August 2018 from, Glow Plug Change (https://www.terraintamer.com/en/tv/milo-rebuild-videos/item/269-glow-plug-change).

I suspect that the glow plugs did not like the 12 volts they received from the old circuit instead of 8.5 volts the specifications suggest.

Kind regards
Lionel

Hi Lionel,
Whilst I agree about the over-voltage be aware that cost & quality are not directly related.
Terrain Tamer would outsource the parts, an Aussie company maybe but they probably don't actually manufacture anything ........the 'Britpart' for Toyota. They've put the Toyota part number on the packaging for reference.

I'm not convinced that $90 for 4 glowplugs is 'expensive' but probably about right for a big name brand (eg. Bosch) but who do Terrain Tamer get to make them ??

On Wallit the resistor had burnt out and the PO had soldered a piece of insulated (!) wire across the terminals. I gave it a burst of 12 Volts (without realising) and apart from the smell of burning insulation the glowplugs worked & the engine started.

Best of luck sorting replacement glowplugs.


Colin

[Lionelgee]

Hi Lionel,
Whilst I agree about the over-voltage be aware that cost & quality are not directly related.
Terrain Tamer would outsource the parts, an Aussie company maybe but they probably don't actually manufacture anything ........the 'Britpart' for Toyota. They've put the Toyota part number on the packaging for reference.

I'm not convinced that $90 for 4 glowplugs is 'expensive' but probably about right for a big name brand (eg. Bosch) but who do Terrain Tamer get to make them ??

On Wallit the resistor had burnt out and the PO had soldered a piece of insulated (!) wire across the terminals. I gave it a burst of 12 Volts (without realising) and apart from the smell of burning insulation the glowplugs worked & the engine started.

Best of luck sorting replacement glowplugs.


Colin

Hello Colin,

I have a set of Bosch glow plugs for a BJ40 Land Cruiser winging their way towards me. They are on special for less than I paid for the parts from the after market shop.

The previous owner had a set of HKT - PT100 fitted to the engine.

The advantage at the time was the bloke from the after market shop had the glow plugs on the shelf on a Saturday morning. I could put money down on the counter and walk out the store with the parts in hand.

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello Colin and other readers,

I had a set of Bosch glow plugs arrive for the shortie. They were on sale on eBay for a lot less than the after-market ones I previously bought over the counter.

I installed the new glow plugs and pressed the starter motor button for the Toyota glow plug controller. I did the count down. One I let the glow plug button go and turned the ignition key to the "Start" position the engine started first go.

However, the former set of glow plugs did this too. The test is to shut the engine down and try to re-start it on the same day as the first attempt to start. Previously, these re-starts were a failure.

Yesterday, I waited two hours - held the glow plug starter button down. I performed the count - saw the glow plug controller coil glowing.... let the glow plug button go .... I turned the key and ....


The engine sprang to life! I have replicated this cycle numerous times over the past three days. The engine starting issue has been sorted.


Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

With the taste of success gained after sorting out the starting issue I went forth to solve the brake issue of having to pump the pedal three times to engage the brakes properly.

I have an automotive pressure bleeder and I have bled the brakes properly. However, the brake pedal has to be pumped three times before the brakes do their job. I have installed all new brake wheel cylinders and a new brake master cylinder.

Turns out the brake fluid leak I noticed on the rear driver's side rim a couple of weeks ago was the brake pipe. The old pipe's flare must have been deformed before I bought the shortie. The compromised flare caused a leak at the back of the wheel cylinder and it trickled down the backing plate and onto the tyre rim.

I made a new length of brake pipe and used my brake flaring tools to form a double flair.

I installed a new brake adjuster snail to replace the old one that would not adjust the brake shoe. I installed the new brake shoes.

I bench bled the new master cylinder then I installed it. I then pressure bled the system from the furthest point to the one closest to the master cylinder. The end result... the same damn spongy pedal that needs three pumps to get the brakes to work. Each time the brakes have to be pumped to get them to work properly.

Before trying the pedal I had pressured the system after bleeding the brakes and left it to sit for half an hour. There are no fluid leaks. Any ideas on how to get this brake problem sorted out?

My previous experience with the brake pressure bleeder was with a number of Long Wheel Base Series 3s and each time I achieved a rock solid pedal. This shortie seems to like throwing up curve balls!

Kind regards
Lionel

[JDNSW]

While it may be a bleeding problem, it is, in view of what you have replaced, more likely to be a mechanical problem, where the shoes are touching the drums so they appear to be adjusted up correctly, but still move significantly before any real pressure is applied to the drums.

Possible causes for this would include:-

Incorrect assembly, such as springs not in the right place; radius of shoes not even a close match to that of drums; Shoes or backing plates allowing shoes to be 'cocked' - early backing plates had adjustable props, later ones the prop is formed in the backing plate. Springs, if correctly installed pull the shoe against it; Drum oversize; Drum out of round (I got a new one of these a while back!).

Whether it is a mechanical of hydraulic problem, try clamping off all the hoses. This should give a rock solid pedal - if not the issue is hydraulic or master cylinder (have you checked the master cylinder pushrod adjustment?). Remember you can bleed at any pipe junction. Release the clamps one at a time, to find where the issue is.

Hope this helps.

[Lionelgee]

Hello John,

Thanks for the tips about clamping the flexible hoses.

The current run sheet is:
new brake master cylinder - Bearmach
new brake shoes - Bearmach
new set of brake adjuster "snails" - Bearmach
new flexible brake hoses - Bearmach
new brake springs - Britpart
new brake wheel cylinders - TRW made to OEM
new brake fluid - fully flushed system.

The 2A was fitted by the previous owner with a brake booster out of a Series 3 - the vacuum is provided through the Toyota 1B diesel's alternator with a vacuum pump.

I fitted the new Series 3 - single circuit brake master cylinder to the brake booster. The old remote reservoir was an original tin one accompanied by tin worm.

The brake shoes were compared for size against the old fitted ones and their base are the same radius.

Springs were fitted as per a couple of YouTube Land Rover Series specialist videos
I sorted out the issue of leading edge shoes by finding similar sources online.

I previously installed a brake system upgrade to a remote reservoir Series 3 diesel by fitting a booster and a integrated single circuit brake master cylinder. Despite the booster having no source for vacuum the hydraulic brake system was pressure bled to be a very firm pedal. I have another Series 3 109 which was fitted with the six cylinder 2.6 litre petrol motor and a brake boosted system from the factory. Its brakes were very - very firm and quick to engage.

I followed the same process on the 109s as I did the shortie and it resulted in their having good brakes. However, the same process on the shortie has resulted in the brake pedal needing three pumps to engage the brakes.

Apart from one brake adjuster snail on the driver's rear axle I could adjust the shoes properly one each wheel. The new snails were meant to solve that issue.

I will have a closer look at the brake joints from front to back. I did not immediately set about to replace all the brake lines as the vehicle is only going to be tootling around the paddock for a while as a service vehicle and for towing the trailer.

It will be a process of elimination to establish what is the culprit.

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello John,

I am starting to suspect that the hole the faulty brake adjuster snail operated in has enlarged itself. The new snail turns but does not seem to engage the brake shoe pin.

To solve this, I may have to do my second brake backing plate swap. The first swap was the passenger-side front brake which was the shape of a "Thins" potato chip - so I replaced it. With this second pending brake backing plate swap I will have replaced 50 percent of the brakes. If I had of known that I had to replace two brake backing plates I would have taken things a bit further. The previous owner had upgraded the 88 inch system to the four cylinder long wheel base kit. I could have taken it one step more and installed the six cylinder long wheel base kit - hindsight is such a wonderful thing.

I will replace the brake backing plate on the weekend and see if this solves the problem with having to pump the pedal three times before the brakes become effective. I can also agree with Colin's comment that the after-market snails are made of cheese. I will be getting a triangle file and notching the original snails.

Either that or I will alter the challenge and get stuck into the lighting system. You know things like having headlights, indicators and brake lights working. Oddly enough the horn works fine! Oh, add windscreen wipers on the unserviceable list too

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Well that was an interesting stroll. I went over to the shortie and noticed a very similar stain of brake fluid on the back driver's side tyre. The tyre was cleaned off with brake cleaner, rinsed off and rubbed dry last weekend.

Either I have cross threaded the hex fitting that connects to the brake wheel cylinder or the thread was faulty from the manufacturer.

I will try and track down a seal kit I bought a couple of years ago - hone one of the old brake wheel cylinders that were fitted to the car. I will see what happens then.

I will still swap over the brake backing plate as it is suspect. Well off I go to get dirty...

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I ran out of light before I could bleed the brake system this afternoon. However, this was the last thing on the "To Do" list for the weekend.

I removed the backing plate, brake shoes, brake wheel cylinder and the drum off one of the spares vehicles.

It turns out that this is the first Land Rover I have worked on where the springs were correctly fitted. Of course I cannot find the YouTube video now that I want it... anyway the scene opens with a view of the brake spring just under the brake wheel cylinder. The spring coil is on the top face of the brake shoes. The bloke mentions that this is incorrect. The spring coil should be located at the back of the brake shoe. The spares Land Rover was the first one that I have seen with this "correct" arrangement.

The other notable thing was that the previous owner must of put new brake shoes in not long before the vehicle was sold. I am pretty happy about that.

I took the hub, shoes and backing plate off the shortie and transplanted the whole componentry from the spares vehicle.

For the first time I could adjust the brake snails and have the wheel stop. I could actually feel the notches on the snail face as it interacted with the brake shoe pins!

I honed the spares vehicle's brake wheel cylinder and fitted a new seal kit to it. Hopefully this fixes the weep from the back of the cylinder and it dripping down the back of the backing plate and then through on to the rim; dripping down the tyre. The flare of the brake pipe that I made last weekend still looked sound. The new brake wheel cylinder I fitted a couple of weekends ago must have something wrong inside where the flare seats between the hex brake thread and the face of the brake wheel cylinder.

I also replaced the back flexible hose. The old one looked okay however I had replaced the two front ones so I might as well make it a complete set of new flexible hoses.

Looks like it is fingers crossed for the bleed next weekend and that I get a solid pedal for the first time. It would be really nice!

I am grateful for having sorted out the glow plug issue and being confident that when I want to start the motor that it actually complies.

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I replaced another leaking brake pipe with a new one. I even had the flare which has been leaking where it connects with the brake wheel cylinder made by a brake and clutch professional. I followed the advice about jacking the front of the shorty up as high as it could go. I pressure bled each brake wheel cylinder from: passenger rear to driver rear; to passenger front to driver's front. I had previously bled the master cylinder. Each wheel cylinder had a solid golden arc of brake fluid coming out of the bleeder.

I put the shorty back on four wheels and took it for a drive in the paddock. I put my foot on the brake pedal and it went straight to the floor. It pumped up after three pumps. Same old same old.

My son is getting married overseas in February so my last lot of expenditure on the shorty represents exactly that. Until after the wedding the shorty can just sit.

If the issue with the brakes is mechanical as John suggests such as: brake drums being out of true; faulty brake adjusters, it will need new brake drums fitted to it. When I buy new ones I might as well do a full upgrade. New brake drums, new backing plates for the 109 six cylinder engine-based units. In the process I will replace all the brake pipes and change them from the current single circuit to a dual circuit brake system.

At this stage I know I have achieved success in some areas with the shorty. When I first got it the clutch was inoperable and the engine would not start. The clutch was fixed with a new 2A slave cylinder; and a conversion from the Series 2A remote reservoir to an integrated Series 3 master cylinder. This meant my plumbing in a new pipe line and pressure bleeding it - successfully.

The engine was a total mongrel to start and attempts to start it were often fruitless. With a new system combining Land Rover parts and a genuine Toyota glow plug controller; plus new Bosch glow plugs, the engine can be started whenever I want it to. I can turn the engine off and come back hours later and it will again start reliably.

I may tinker with the electrics so that I have headlights, brake lights and indicators. Also, the windscreen wipers do not work. However, no further expenditure on the brakes or other major componentry until after my son's wedding next year.

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Well the weekend is over and I did not do any work on any of my Series Land Rovers. I spent Saturday sorting out my main work area which had started to emulate the Bermuda Triangle. Things routinely starting to go missing. During the clean-up I found a 1.5 mm drift from my Stanley punch and chisel set. One tool missing and it is no longer a set. With the missing tool found, all is well!

I also found the two LED trailer light combination and the 10 metres of 7 core wire that I bought years ago. They were put away while waiting for some free time so I could re-wire the trailer. One LED light was still in the twin pack. The other had grown legs. I actually found the loose unit first. I also found the flat seven pin male plug which was bought years ago too and stored somewhere else.

Today - Sunday - with all the parts found I started off by removing the old wiring loom and then I installed the new wire. I removed the old bulb-based light units and fitted the LED ones. All the wire joints were soldered and then insulated.

I ran out of daylight so I have the after work job of wiring the trailer plug in so it matches the car-based female plug. Hopefully, I have solved the problem where every time I hooked the trailer up I would blow the car's brake fuse. It turns out the old loom somehow got pinched and a couple of wires were mangled.

Not a spanner, a screwdriver, or a socket was wielded on a Land Rover this weekend... now I am in withdrawal. At least I know it can be done.

Oh, the reason for re-wiring the trailer? So I can do a Land Rover parts trip one weekend soon - teehee!

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Late last Thursday - the 20th of September, I ordered three complete sets of brake springs for my Series LWB vehicles direct from Bearmach located in the UK. The parts arrived at home this morning - 25th of September. You cannot fault Bearmach's level of service.

The springs themselves seem to be made out of superior materials than a set of "itparts" that came with a set of brake shoes. The Bearmach spring even feels heavier to hold in my hand.

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

When I first bought the Shorty it was at the very least a cantankerous thing to start. After some interactions here and on a Toyota Diesel forum I was guided towards a solution. A previous Series 2A owner who went over to the dark side and bought a BJ40 Land Cruiser came up with a suggestion. It was the combination of a Series 1 Land Rover press button starter switch along with a genuine 1B diesel glow plug controller.

Having come back from holidays and then playing catch-up had caused me to not go near Shorty for months. Today I engaged the battery isolator and pressed the starter button on the dashboard until the glow plug indicator - glowed. I turned the ignition key on and the engine started up straight away. There was no hesitation at all. So it was a win!

I then looked at the back driver's tyre and it became obvious that the brake system still has some bladder control issues. A reminder of some still unresolved problems. I am going to replace the whole rear brake piping - apart from the now only months old flexible hose. The wheel cylinders are all new TRM OEM products.

Oh well it is a 2A wide light Series Land Rover - you win sometimes and other times you don't.

I am very happy for the win because without glow plus the Toyota 1B Diesel is far from user-friendly to start.

Kind regards
Lionel