Diagnosis - Death?

[Dark61]

Took the 57 88 for a tickle around the place today , gave it a run for 5 mins , backed it into the shed, went forward a couple of feet to straighten it up and it stalled. Started it up and much crunching of gears. Clutch pedal felt a bit limp. Is it gearbox out time or is tbere something i can check first?
All comments gratefully appreciated as usual.
cheers,
D

[1950landy]

Check you have not broken one of the pins in the tube on were theclutch X shaft goese into the bell housing

[Dark61]

Thanks . Had a brief look yesterday in the gloom but wasnt all that sure what i was looking at. Had a look at the parts manual last night and will take another look this am. The shaft that gies into the bell housing doesnt seem to turn all that much.
cheers,

D

[JDNSW]

Almost certainly either that or the pedal has come loose on the shaft.

[Dark61]

Had another look today but am in a shed with no power so proceedings torch driven. I cant see anything obviously missing or broken , but have a sense the shaft is not turning as much as i would imagine given the amount of travel of the pedal. (This before Johns comment). Will get Mrs Dark61 to apply her foot to the pedal while i inspect at the weekend and will report back.
cheers,
D

[Dark61]

poss problem is where the shaft goes into the collar - but will need to lift the floor to get better access. Not really understanding how the shaft connects to the throwout bearing , but will persevere.
cheers,

d

[1950landy]

That collar as you call it is a hardened tube that acts as a universal joint it has a hardened pin through it at each end. These pin' s wear then brake . If you sudenly loose clutch presure it is usually one of these pins broken unless the pressure plate has colapased . If they are worn or brolen you will need the correct pins to replace them so they don' t brake again . I fitted hitensile bolts in mine once 2 applications of the peddle & broke. One pin is out side the bell housing the other is just inside the housing behind the rubber boot but can be replaced with out pulling out the box using long nose pliers. The hardest part is getting the split pins out. You will need to inspect the tube for cracking atound the holes . The tube is extremily hard & if you try to drill it it will just keep burning out drill bits. GOOD LUCK with it.
Wayne

[JDNSW]

Further to Wayne's comment - the pin you can see has been replaced by a bolt. This bolt is almost certainly not strong enough to replace the hardened pin that should be there, and this is very likely partly sheared and causing the issue. It may be very difficult to get out unless it has actually broken!

The one you can't see should be checked as well. This is (just) accessible if you pull out the rubber boot after removing the outer pin.

[gromit]

If it turns out it is the pin/bolt broken they are available from a few suppliers 536803 CLUTCH CROSS SHAFT CLEVIS PIN | shop | www.lrseries.com (http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/1140/536803-CLUTCH-CROSS-SHAFT-CLEVIS-PIN.html)
If they are aftermarket I wonder what steel they are made of and whether that will last though.


Colin

[JDNSW]

If you have a good fastener place nearby, might be worth talking to them.

[Dark61]

Finally got around to taking a look at the clutch mech. Pin , bellhousing end, had sheared off. Managed to retrieve the bottom half of it from within the bellhousing using my trusty magnet on a pole thing. Bought a couple of pins from Colins link, chose the rover ones rather than the cheapos. All good, mobile again which is good as It was hard going wheeling barrowloads of wood up the slope! Not entirely sure how its fixed it as the pin still had enough length to pass through the shaft, but there you go. Thanks very much for everyones help.
cheers,
D

[1950landy]

It doesn't take much movement there to make a bid difference to the peddle travel.