Suspect it's slow...

[thetravellingleunig]

Hi all,
My TD5 is the only one i've ever driven, but I get the impression it doesn't run as it should.
It's an auto, 165000km on the clock.

First, it's slow.
I am not expecting a rocket ship, but it really drives like a truck, especially under 2500km. Slightly quicker than my old mans non turbo landcruiser... Very slow to get up to speed (a D1 tdi disappeared into the distance as I pulled away from some lights recently), quickly loses speed once you hit a hill . Even within that general poor performance it has flat spot/runs rough around 2200-2400rpm as well (which is right where the auto wants to drive).
It does go a bit better above 2750rpm/when you really open the throttle wide (so to speak), but also this feels a bit like I am thrashing it, not how it should need to be driven.

It's also getting poor economy, maybe 650km/78L or so. And I am light on the throttle, though is mostly short town drives (not city).

So far I have:
changed air and oil filters, put in a new injector harness, dealt with oil in red plug (cleaned comprehensively with contact cleaner, slightly improved responsiveness 1750-2250rpm), cleaned MAP (was gunked up) and MAF with contact cleaner, tried running MAF disconnected (no obvious benefit)...

Hmm...

Any suggestions as to where to next?

I don't need it to be fast, but at the moment it just feels not right. And of course better economy is always nice.

[Tombie]

No change with MAF disconnected and lethargic tends to indicate a few potentials.

I’d like to see it on a diagnostic (Nanocom etc) for some MAF readings.

Also, some free and easy checks:
Bypass WGM direct to turbo
Check Wastegate can actuate freely.

[thetravellingleunig]

No change with MAF disconnected and lethargic tends to indicate a few potentials.

I’d like to see it on a diagnostic (Nanocom etc) for some MAF readings.

Also, some free and easy checks:
Bypass WGM direct to turbo
Check Wastegate can actuate freely.


Free and easy checks are the kind I like.
I'll take a look at those later this week hopefully.

[sierrafery]

... cleaned MAP (was gunked up)...
Do you still have the EGR on it? ...if yes clean the valve too cos it might be clogged.

[trout1105]

Hi all,
My TD5 is the only one i've ever driven, but I get the impression it doesn't run as it should.
It's an auto, 165000km on the clock.

First, it's slow.
I am not expecting a rocket ship, but it really drives like a truck, especially under 2500km. Slightly quicker than my old mans non turbo landcruiser... Very slow to get up to speed (a D1 tdi disappeared into the distance as I pulled away from some lights recently), quickly loses speed once you hit a hill . Even within that general poor performance it has flat spot/runs rough around 2200-2400rpm as well (which is right where the auto wants to drive).
It does go a bit better above 2750rpm/when you really open the throttle wide (so to speak), but also this feels a bit like I am thrashing it, not how it should need to be driven.

It's also getting poor economy, maybe 650km/78L or so. And I am light on the throttle, though is mostly short town drives (not city).

So far I have:
changed air and oil filters, put in a new injector harness, dealt with oil in red plug (cleaned comprehensively with contact cleaner, slightly improved responsiveness 1750-2250rpm), cleaned MAP (was gunked up) and MAF with contact cleaner, tried running MAF disconnected (no obvious benefit)...

Hmm...

Any suggestions as to where to next?

I don't need it to be fast, but at the moment it just feels not right. And of course better economy is always nice.

Basically what you have is a 2.5L engine pushing a 3T vehicle So Yes it is Not a rocket ship or a sports car and if you try to drive it like a sports car then your fuel consumption will suffer.
If you treat the truck for what it is and that is a very capable and comfortable 4WD and not try and treat it like a performance car then you fuel economy will improve[thumbsupbig]

[Tombie]

Basically what you have is a 2.5L engine pushing a 3T vehicle So Yes it is Not a rocket ship or a sports car and if you try to drive it like a sports car then your fuel consumption will suffer.
If you treat the truck for what it is and that is a very capable and comfortable 4WD and not try and treat it like a performance car then you fuel economy will improve[thumbsupbig]

Off the horse you![emoji41]

OP says he’s driving gently but that it’s completely lack lustre - and it sounds like it is off by the fuel consumption and performance described.

[thetravellingleunig]

Basically what you have is a 2.5L engine pushing a 3T vehicle So Yes it is Not a rocket ship or a sports car and if you try to drive it like a sports car then your fuel consumption will suffer.
If you treat the truck for what it is and that is a very capable and comfortable 4WD and not try and treat it like a performance car then you fuel economy will improve[thumbsupbig]

Fair call, but I think I mentioned already the the economy figures are achieved when dawdling around, getting left far behind taking off from lights, watching D1 TDIs disappear into the distance.
Like I also said, not looking for a sports car, just something that approximates what I've hear about these engines (which is that they actually can go fairly well compared to some comparable engines, and with reasonable economy).
I can live with it how it is, but figured might as well at least look into it 👍

[Dorian]

Free but not easy,
I'd consider checking the air intake system hoses from the output side of the turbo to the engine intake.
My TD5 manual 1999 had similar sounding problems for a while and eventually my fix (after the mechanic doing the MAF etc etc ) was to replace the intake hoses, which looked fine on the outside but they had de-laminated inside.
Mechanic also found a piece stuck in the intercooler, which I think was the result of him blowing it out.

Though when my car was like this, my engine never sounded like I was "thrashing" it, it was just dull and sluggish and took forever to rev up, my fuel usage was higher but around 1L/110K higher.
Is it worth considering the torque converter. Sorry to say I've got no experience with auto's, so can't point to how to diagnose any issues.

Cheers Glen.

[laney]

If I was you I'd put silicone intercooler hoses on the landrover rubber ones had a habit of delamination wich lead to poor performance and higher than normal fuel usage. If you can get hold of a nanacom or Hawkeye and check for faults this may help.

[JR1]

My average fuel usage is 650km/85L around town. I drive like a granny. But I have a few accessories (bar/winch, roof rack). It was a bit better before I added these. Not sure what you have on your vehicle.
As for sluggishness, think the other members have that covered.

[laney]

Just a thought you haven't got a flat spot on the turbo.

[p38arover]

Any suggestions as to where to next?

KLR Automotive at South Windsor 02 4577-5010

[DiscoMick]

Is 13.1 l/100 kms high for a Td5?

[thetravellingleunig]

Thanks for the input guys.
I'll have a look at the hoses.

My D2 is stock.
Not bars, no roof racks, small AT tyres, no engine mods (as far as I am aware/can see), etc.
In that context I think the fuel usage is too high. I don't necessarily expect to get the best results (some reporting 10L/100km, or less), but seems like it could be better.

[onebob]

Is 13.1 l/100 kms high for a Td5?

It’s getting up there.... i’ve averaged 11.4l/100 over the last 39 consecutive fuel fills. Lowest was 10.9 highest was 12.1. And before I put the roofbars on I was averaging 10.1 ....

[jonesfam]

Is 13.1 l/100 kms high for a Td5?

Around town (City), on the highway or average?

I get 11.5 to 12's on the highway at a good clip, 13's is hills & gravel off/on the throttle type stuff for mine & I haven't got a clue in cities.

Jonesfam

[Tombie]

Is 13.1 l/100 kms high for a Td5?

Very much so!

[thetravellingleunig]

No change with MAF disconnected and lethargic tends to indicate a few potentials.

I’d like to see it on a diagnostic (Nanocom etc) for some MAF readings.

Also, some free and easy checks:
Bypass WGM direct to turbo
Check Wastegate can actuate freely.


Update: wastegate seemed to move freely, so tried the bypass. This seems to have made a difference. Of course the misfire/flat spot is still there around 2200-2300rpm, but otherwise it seems to be turning over with a lot less throttle input. Was only a short drive, but I am feeling optimistic.

So next question is - can I continue to run it like this or should I replace the modulator?

(The other next question is regarding the misfire, but I am thinking that would require some more complex Dx...)

[whitey56]

165,000ks since new, possibly a soccer mum or elderly previous owner and might need a good flogging for a blowout.
Do a stall test to see how the tranny is going.

[Dorian]

So next question is - can I continue to run it like this or should I replace the modulator?


The modulator diverts exhaust around the turbo to limit the boost pressure. Sounds like yours was always diverting at least something.
If the boost gets too high, the motor will go into a "limp" mode where you lose quite a bit of power. Quite unnerving when your overtaking.
I'd be replacing the modulator and trying to get it right, it's not that difficult to do your self.

Cheers Glen

[discorevy]

The modulator diverts exhaust around the turbo to limit the boost pressure.

Cheers Glen


Not quite, the modulator diverts excess boost back to the intake momentarily stopping it from going to the actuator which is connected to the wastegate which diverts exhaust from the turbine , limiting boost

[Dorian]

My mistake, I thought the Modulator as being discussed was the Actuator. Didn't realize the D2 had more than the waste gate to control the boost.

[RobMichelle]

So far I have:

changed air and oil filters,

Silly question you did do fuel filter to?

[thetravellingleunig]

So far I have:

changed air and oil filters,

Silly question you did do fuel filter to?


Ah, well spotted!
Actually that's a typo 🙃
Haven't done oil filter but HAVE done fuel filter.

But, ran some diagnostics and got a fuel interesting bits and pieces. Was only brief, but much appreciated.
0137 - injector fault. Ran the car and injector 3 getting 6-8rpm out around 2200rpm... Explains the misfire.
Likely to require injector replacement?

0058- air flow too low/circuit fault
0060 - inlet air temp sensor too low /circuit fault

It was suggested these were indicative of MAF issues.
The idle air inlet temperature was around 29
Airflow 59 at idle.
Didn't get it under load.

It was also suggested the current maf may be a cheap Chinese one, could be the issue.

Any comments from this data??

[djam1]

Injector balance is only meaningful at idle not at revs
Should be single digits -+

[harro]

Ah, well spotted!
Actually that's a typo 🙃
Haven't done oil filter but HAVE done fuel filter.

But, ran some diagnostics and got a fuel interesting bits and pieces. Was only brief, but much appreciated.
0137 - injector fault. Ran the car and injector 3 getting 6-8rpm out around 2200rpm... Explains the misfire.
Likely to require injector replacement?

0058- air flow too low/circuit fault
0060 - inlet air temp sensor too low /circuit fault

It was suggested these were indicative of MAF issues.
The idle air inlet temperature was around 29
Airflow 59 at idle.
Didn't get it under load.

It was also suggested the current maf may be a cheap Chinese one, could be the issue.

Any comments from this data??

You said you have already run with maf disconnected and no difference so probably rule that out although it is usually the #1 culprit for a lazy td5.
And pretty sure the MAF doesn't have an inlet temp feedback to the ecu despite it using the 'hot wire principle' for airflow.

I am assuming you have replaced the air filter?
As mentioned delaminating turbo hoses are common also and will choke the engine.
Also mentioned was the EGR, if it is still active quite probably gunked up and stuck open reducing boost.

Not sure if the inlet temp fault is from the MAP sensor or AAP as they both measure inlet temps on EU3.
I am guessing the MAP so might be worth trying another MAP sensor.



Quite a few sensors on the td5 effect fueling besides the few you have dealt with.
AAP sensor, fuel temp and engine temp as well but what you describe does sound more like a low boost issue.
The only thing I can think of that has not been mentioned is a blocked cat restricting exhaust flow.

Paul.

[onebob]

Trace the waste gate actuator hose from the turbo all the way back to the waste gate control solenoid checking for splits or cracking along its length and at hose ends and then do the same for the hose that runs from the bottom of the WG control Solenoid down to the connection with the boost pipe. Renew hoses or trim and re-connect hose ends to ensure there are no leaks.

[PhilipA]

Check the wiring from the MAF around the front of the engine .
It is not unknown for the wiring to chafe on the corner at the front of the engine or at the steek clamps along the front.

Regards Philip A
Looking back , I don't see whether your car is an EU2 or 2002 on EU3.
If an EU2 the temp thing means nothing as they didn't have one.
If an EU3 then the possibility of both a MAF and temp fault increases the possibility of shorted wires in the harness as they share a harness.

[discorevy]

Not sure if the inlet temp fault is from the MAP sensor or AAP as they both measure inlet temps on EU3.


The only thing I can think of that has not been mentioned is a blocked cat restricting exhaust flow.

Paul.



If an EU2 the temp thing means nothing as they didn't have one.




inlet temp is measured from map sensor on both eu2 and eu3
intake air temp is measured from aapt on eu3 only
cat converter on eu3 only
I haven't seen whether the op's disco is eu2 or 3 either.
without data log or a more comprehensive result ( including max boost pressure / max air flow) from live values it is speculation.
edit: the physical things mentioned are worth checking, you can , as mentioned do a stall test and report back the max stall speed

[ozscott]

I just reread your first post. Unless the d1 tdi was modified significantly the stock td5 being left for dead indicates its sick. Now if you were coming from a v8 I could understand you being underwhelmed [emoji847] but seriously the td5 in stock tune is quicker than what you are experiencing. Cheers

[PhilipA]

inlet temp is measured from map sensor on both eu2 and eu3

I do know that but thought he may have stated it incorrectly.

It brings up another possibility that the MAP sensor is faulty and that could cause low fueling issues.

I know when one of my hoses blew off on a long climb the fueling only took a second of black smoke to revert to non turbo values. ie the MAP sensor was doing its job.
Regards Philip A

[harro]

I do know that but thought he may have stated it incorrectly.

It brings up another possibility that the MAP sensor is faulty and that could cause low fueling issues.

I know when one of my hoses blew off on a long climb the fueling only took a second of black smoke to revert to non turbo values. ie the MAP sensor was doing its job.
Regards Philip A


The poor fuel fuel economy stated by the OP points more to a possible boost issue than restricted fuelling IMO.

Paul.

[thetravellingleunig]

The poor fuel fuel economy stated by the OP points more to a possible boost issue than restricted fuelling IMO.

Paul.


Evening all, thanks for the continues input.

I had the same thought as Paul - if it is running bad economy does this indicate ok fueling/not running lean? The fuel is going somewhere.

My old man drove it today, and commented that it doesn't spin up very quickly, and that's saying something as he has a non turbo Landcruiser camper! (my disco is definitely faster than that, but he's right that the acceleration is poor).

It's a 99, so I assume EU2?

I have cleaned the MAP sensor, months back, was pretty filthy before I cleaned it. But no real difference.

Re. suggestions about the wastegate hoses - currently I have bypassed the solenoid with a new hose.


Really need to run some more thorough diagnostics I think, to look into both the boost issue and the misfire.

Meantime from the suggestions here maybe getting rid of the EGR and checking all the turbo pipes.

Stall test has been mentioned - I'm not familiar with this, what's the purpose?

Thanks again all.

[discorevy]

assuming a standard torque converter, the revs should be between 2600-2800 rpm , if lower it means you have reduced engine power, if it doesn't get above 1300 rpm your torque converter is u/s .
make sure the engine is at operating temp before doing the test and only do it once ( around 5 seconds should be long enogh ( no longer than 10 )
handbrake on and firm foot on brake, use chocks if you've got them .

[thetravellingleunig]

assuming a standard torque converter, the revs should be between 2600-2800 rpm , if lower it means you have reduced engine power, if it doesn't get above 1300 rpm your torque converter is u/s .
make sure the engine is at operating temp before doing the test and only do it once ( around 5 seconds should be long enogh ( no longer than 10 )
handbrake on and firm foot on brake, use chocks if you've got them .


Ok, cheers discorevy, I'll have a go at that later this week.

[mikegf]

How are your injector seals? Only ask as after I changed mine in the Defender (due to other symptoms) the improvement in performance was noticeable (obviously the original degradation was much slower so i didn't notice!).

[Lewwilson]

Had similar symptoms with my 2003 TD5 D2 auto.
Turned out to be the turbo impeller had come loose.
Suggest you have a look at the impeller, if loose re-do with some type of loctite.
I had a spare new turbo so just had it swapped over. Still have the original one.
Will get around to cleaning it one day.
Cheers
Lew

[janousek]

I am following this post with interest as I have the same symptoms with my d2/2003.
I have gone through most engine related checks with no results. Only change I have not done is injector seals.
Nanocom shows me errors.
However I have done the stall test. It was hitting 3000rpm. I don’t know exactly what does it mean.

[JohnPerth]

Hi all,
My TD5 is the only one i've ever driven, but I get the impression it doesn't run as it should.
It's an auto, 165000km on the clock.

Interesting discussion, guys. I have a 2002 D2 TD5 Auto with 200,000 on the clock, so it's pretty much the same set-up. My engine is apparently the later one fitted to face-lift models. My car is pre-face-lift.


runs rough around 2200-2400rpm as well (which is right where the auto wants to drive).

I concur with this. The one thing that I really want to sort out is the rumble/rough running/unbalanced feel that the donk has at 2100-2300 RPM. I'm cool with the performance, and if I need more it will give it when I stick the boot in, but the engine is very loud and feels as though it's out of balance at just the revs that the car wants to cruise at. Is this common?

(My turbo is fine, looks new inside and is not sloppy on the spindle, the blades are sharp, but I haven't checked the intake hoses etc.)

[Lemo]

Interesting discussion, guys. I have a 2002 D2 TD5 Auto with 200,000 on the clock, so it's pretty much the same set-up. My engine is apparently the later one fitted to face-lift models. My car is pre-face-lift.



I concur with this. The one thing that I really want to sort out is the rumble/rough running/unbalanced feel that the donk has at 2100-2300 RPM. I'm cool with the performance, and if I need more it will give it when I stick the boot in, but the engine is very loud and feels as though it's out of balance at just the revs that the car wants to cruise at. Is this common?

(My turbo is fine, looks new inside and is not sloppy on the spindle, the blades are sharp, but I haven't checked the intake hoses etc.)

There's a thread on this already, use your search for td5 vibration should pop up?
But there isn't really a solution, after the 100th something post of try this and that no one has a solution where they change something and it fixes it! Just appears to be present in some of the td5's....
I'll try link the thread for you later[emoji106]

Lemo

[URL]https://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2-a/100404-ultimate-solution-td5-vibration-knocking.html/[URL]

[thetravellingleunig]

No change with MAF disconnected and lethargic tends to indicate a few potentials.

I’d like to see it on a diagnostic (Nanocom etc) for some MAF readings.

Also, some free and easy checks:
Bypass WGM direct to turbo
Check Wastegate can actuate freely.


Evening all, bit of an update.
First, in response to the above - decided to by something for diagnostics, figured it'd pay for itself quickly, and a hawkeye came up cheap so I grabbed one.
MAF readings:
- Idle - between 57-62, which from a brief read is fairly normal?
- Flat out up a hill (between 2800-3100rpm, don't think my car would get the rpm far past that, mayyyybe 3500) - 530-540 (never quite got to 550 I don't think).
Possibly slightly low? Or still WNL?

Manifold intake pressure - under hard acceleration it was getting into 190s, don't think i saw over 200. Is this also a little low?

Cylinder balance - 3 gets 8-10rpm out around 2200-2400rpm, when in neutral, but on the road this wasn't showing up, interestingly. Still runs rough/down on power in that rev range.

Thanks for the suggestions re turbo impeller and injector seals. I had been having thoughts about the injector seals, but putting it off due to being a slightly bigger task.

I've got an EGR blanking kit so I'll get onto that as next step and see how we go.

[thetravellingleunig]

oh, one other thing to add - I had a high air inlet temp fault. But I don't know what the actual value was. Any ideas on the norms for that?

[djam1]

Cylinder balance is only meaningful at idle

[thetravellingleunig]

EGR delete done 👍

Quite enjoying the learning process so far, chasing these issues is definitely helpful for generally learning how theses things work.

No real different from removing EGR, as expected.
Ran it on Hawkeye again. Still not getting manifold pressure over 200, max around 190. I know that isn't a precise measure of boost, but from my reading it is lpw, should be getting maybe 225? (Ambient reading 95-100)?
Can any confirm or dismiss that?

MAF also not getting above 550 - again from my reading that see a little low/does not pass a MAF test. Again, anyone feel they can confirm or dismiss that?

[discorevy]

Yes , boost will be low if you've bypassed wastegate modulator, shorten the actuator rod by 3 turns ( mark the knurled nut before you start ) this should get you in the ballpark wrt boost and correspondingly should raise air flow ....it'll go better too.

[JohnPerth]

There's a thread on this already, use your search for td5 vibration should pop up?
But there isn't really a solution, after the 100th something post of try this and that no one has a solution where they change something and it fixes it! Just appears to be present in some of the td5's....
I'll try link the thread for you later[emoji106]

Lemo

[URL]https://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2-a/100404-ultimate-solution-td5-vibration-knocking.html/[URL]

Thanks Lemo. Wow, what a thread. Read many, many, pages of it, as you say, nobody has a definitive answer.

[thetravellingleunig]

Yes , boost will be low if you've bypassed wastegate modulator, shorten the actuator rod by 3 turns ( mark the knurled nut before you start ) this should get you in the ballpark wrt boost and correspondingly should raise air flow ....it'll go better too.


Gave this a crack.
Shortened actuator by 3 turns.
It is going slightly better, but still the boost seems low. Maxing out around 205kpa (ambient approx 95, so that's 110).
Considering that is with 3 turns on it that seems low, quick skim of other threads has people hitting much higher numbers with that kind of adjustment.
It's certainly miles away from the 245 or whenever it is the the ECU intervene.

I have a alternate MAF coming (used but genuine one, from a car that was running well), see how that goes....

Will replace the WGM also, bypassing that was something that helped, if only a small amount, so hopefully a new one will help.

After that.....hmmm... Turbo hoses? Other ideas?

[discorevy]

Aap should be around 100 , has the Hawkeye shown any faults for this?.
If the aap sensor is faulty or clogged it can limit boost pressure to 1 bar

[thetravellingleunig]

Aap should be around 100 , has the Hawkeye shown any faults for this?.
If the aap sensor is faulty or clogged it can limit boost pressure to 1 bar


No faults so far.
The ambient is reading generally between 94-96, which I took to be pretty close to right?

[thetravellingleunig]

Quick update, I know you're all waiting with bated breath...[tonguewink]

Triallrd shortening the actuator more - total of 5 turns.
Achieved slightly higher readings via the map - max around 210 (ambient 96-96)

I then installed a new WGM and ditched the bypass arrangement. Backed the actuator off by one turn (so currently it is 4 turns shorter than stock).
Pressure seems to be rising quicker but max remains 210-215. Ambient today is 93 (slightly lower).

Still seems low, unless anyone thinks otherwise?? I haven't found any clear documentation about the normal readings, but from various threads I've read around this place it seems low.

[sierrafery]

Make a test, clamp the pipe which goes from the WGM to the valve, this way you can see at what rpm goes to overboost... if it revs above 3000 and no overboost it's not about wastegate adjustment but about low boost which can be due to worn turbo, boost leak, clogged intercooler or bad fuelling... the real test would be to connect a boost gauge and compare the real boost with the MAP reading using the following formula: Boost = MAP - AAP

btw, did you clean the MAP sensor after the EGR bypass... if not do that ASAP and concentrate to free up the small hole in it near the protuberant element cos there's the boost reading

[thetravellingleunig]

Make a test, clamp the pipe which goes from the WGM to the valve, this way you can see at what rpm goes to overboost... if it revs above 3000 and no overboost it's not about wastegate adjustment but about low boost which can be due to worn turbo, boost leak, clogged intercooler or bad fuelling... the real test would be to connect a boost gauge and compare the real boost with the MAP reading using the following formula: Boost = MAP - AAP

btw, did you clean the MAP sensor after the EGR bypass... if not do that ASAP and concentrate to free up the small hole in it near the protuberant element cos there's the boost reading


Can just unplug it from the actuator? Or needs to be clamped?


I cleaned the MAP about 4 months ago when I first got the car (and the MAP was filthy!) I'll clean it again now anyhow.

Fuelling is a possibility too - the MAF won't get above 550 at full noise. Though unplugging doesn't change things, so maybe MAF is ok. I've nights second hand on to try at any rate.

[sierrafery]

If you unplug the pipe from the actuator without clamping it there will be a slight boost leak to the air there when the modulator opens, the test is better with it clamped. Is your air filter new and good brand?

[thetravellingleunig]

If you unplug the pipe from the actuator without clamping it there will be a slight boost leak to the air there when the modulator opens, the test is better with it clamped. Is your air filter new and good brand?



Ah, good point.

At any rate I've already tried it by just unplugging it and sure enough it went into overboost quickly, maybe 2750 or so (and given what you've mentioned re boost leak it might have been quicker with the hose clamped). The corresponded to a reading about 235 or so from the MAP (AAP - 94, which the MAP was consistent with the MAP reading at idle).

So I am thinking this suggests the boost is being limited by the wastegate opening early... Might shorten it again a couple of turns and see how it goes.

[sierrafery]

OK then , it seems that at least the engine is producing boost and that's good, if everything is OK with the wastegate you should get normal boost around 1.3 bar with 13 threads left on the actuator rod and go to overboost at 9 threads left so if it's shorter than that and still low boost it might be a problem at the wastegate port... when my turbo was opened to fit the uprated billet core there were some carbon deposits under the flap which could have let some boost out there, the mechanic cleaned it well with abrasive paper to make sure it fully closes

[thetravellingleunig]

OK then , it seems that at least the engine is producing boost and that's good, if everything is OK with the wastegate you should get normal boost around 1.3 bar with 13 threads left on the actuator rod and go to overboost at 9 threads left so if it's shorter than that and still low boost it might be a problem at the wastegate port... when my turbo was opened to fit the uprated billet core there were some carbon deposits under the flap which could have let some boost out there, the mechanic cleaned it well with abrasive paper to make sure it fully closes


Yepm good to get to the bottom of that at least. I'm totally new to this game so at least now I have a better understanding of the turbo/potential issues with it on TD5.
And I've got some improvement out of replacing the WGM (I think, or at least that's I am telling myself [smilebigeye]).


But, from a poor performance/economy point of view, I'll get back to looking at the misfire/running rough as the cause...hmm...