TD5 Top Radiator Hose Question

[Kent_P]

Hi all,


Another TD5 Top radiator Hose question!


I recently replaced my top radiator hose with a genuine one after a chaffing issue and subsequently leak.


All good for a week and then it started.

This week, the hose has started to weep through the side fibres of part of the pipe that connects to the radiator next to the airbox. A few drops here and there.

Also, the bottom of the hose where the it connects to the metal pipe has begun to leak. It's not enough to stop driving the car but enough to require some attention.


The D2 has 307km, recently repaired fuel cooler and all good. No other coolant leaks.


If someone could provided me with some direction, it would be much appreciated.


Thank you very much!

[gavinwibrow]

Hi all,


Another TD5 Top radiator Hose question!


I recently replaced my top radiator hose with a genuine one after a chaffing issue and subsequently leak.


All good for a week and then it started.

This week, the hose has started to weep through the side fibres of part of the pipe that connects to the radiator next to the airbox. A few drops here and there.

Also, the bottom of the hose where the it connects to the metal pipe has begun to leak. It's not enough to stop driving the car but enough to require some attention.


The D2 has 307km, recently repaired fuel cooler and all good. No other coolant leaks.


If someone could provided me with some direction, it would be much appreciated.


Thank you very much!

Question - is it weeping where the hose is over the metal joins at the ends, or where there is only hose?

If the former, I'm assuming you cleaned up the metal surfaces prior to fitting the new hoses. A trick that sometimes helps (and sometimes not) is to put some Vaseline on the outside of the metal under the hose junctions (not too much, but ensure a good seal), and see if it still weeps.

Won't even ask if you put the clamps on properly.
Good luck - only 200K to go before a rebuild!![bigwhistle]

[AK83]

....

Won't even ask if you put the clamps on properly.
....

... and are the clamps the genuine compression fit types, or aftermarket worm drive types?

Sometimes just moving the clamp a mm or so forward/rearward on the hose can help.
I had this problem on my Tdi after a flush, drove me mad for a bit with the continual drip leak .. which got me off my posterior and I finally replaced all the hoses with a silicon set I purchased a couple of years ago!

[clintooo]

Question - is it weeping where the hose is over the metal joins at the ends, or where there is only hose?

If the former, I'm assuming you cleaned up the metal surfaces prior to fitting the new hoses. A trick that sometimes helps (and sometimes not) is to put some Vaseline on the outside of the metal under the hose junctions (not too much, but ensure a good seal), and see if it still weeps.

Won't even ask if you put the clamps on properly.
Good luck - only 200K to go before a rebuild!![bigwhistle]


i had similar issues with weeping when I changed out all my hoses. I changed out the spring clips that came with the hoses for old style hose clamps and it solved it.

[strangy]

A common persistent problem with rubbish quality.
It doesn’t matter who or where you buy the hose from.

Fix the problem permanently with a Samco silicone hose.

Wish I had done this from the beginning.

[Roverlord off road spares]

The odd genuine hose can have issues with a leak between the laminating of the fire and the rubber but this rare. It's the aftermarket hoses that cause problems generally . The genuine factory clamps don't usually cause issues if fitted to a clean connection point. Also genuine hoses have paint marks that coincide with notches on castings on the fitting area to ensure correct alignment to correct rubbing clearance. If you bought it locally return it for a warranty claim, if you bought it O/S then it'll probably cost more to post it back for examination than what it's worth.

[djam1]

I blew a genuine hose last week after complaining to my parts supplier he said he is getting to the point that he is steering people away from genuine items.
Apparently there has been a change of manufacturing location and there are many issues with the vulcanising
He supplied non genuine and it did look a little better made.

[Roverlord off road spares]

I blew a genuine hose last week after complaining to my parts supplier he said he is getting to the point that he is steering people away from genuine items.
Apparently there has been a change of manufacturing location and there are many issues with the vulcanising
He supplied non genuine and it did look a little better made.

We are doing the opposite steering people away from aftermarket hoses as they have been a head ache.
As far as vulcanising, yes lots of problems with aftermarket hoses we find .
They come from Pakistan, India and similar countries
Then there are those aftermarket ones which don't have vulcanising like the one in pic attached. inconsistent wall thickness through out.

141411
141412

[AK83]

....
Then there are those aftermarket ones which don't have vulcanising like the one in pic attached. inconsistent wall thickness through out.

.....

I think there's a saying .. "there's nothing really new under the sun"(or word to that effect).
I remember as a teenager, my dad used to have Cadillacs, and the one he had when I was roughly 15-ish left us stranded when it 'blew a hose' in a similar manner to that top pic.

Then again when I was in my early 20's. I only just got my RRC late '88, and as part of my routine with a new car, I pull the rad, flush engine, flush rad, clean out gunk from around the rad(the crap that always get trapped in there) .. etc.
As I was doing all that one weekend, dad asks me to help fix his Caddy(which really means... can I do it for him .. not help him, or him help me! [bighmmm])
He only just got it serviced and on the way home blew the hose, exactly the same way.
Hose was relatively new, had the Gates sticker in pretty clean condition on the underside, and made in the good ol USA.

[jbe]

I had similar issues with the top hose leaking on my Td5 Defender. I decided to ditch the genuine clamp as they are a pain to fit properly in the first place. I haven't had any issues since I swapped to a traditional hose clamp.

[rick130]

I blew a genuine hose last week after complaining to my parts supplier he said he is getting to the point that he is steering people away from genuine items.
Apparently there has been a change of manufacturing location and there are many issues with the vulcanising
He supplied non genuine and it did look a little better made.

I've been wondering about this seeing how old the TD5 is now and looking at the manufacturing location on genuine parts bags and boxes.
For all the time I had the Deefer I would only use genuine, but now.....

I like Strangy's solution, but I don't think they make the bottom hose?

[djam1]

I was working on a td5 last week that had a 3 piece top hose with really simple pieces of hose between plastic sections looked good

[Roverlord off road spares]

I was working on a td5 last week that had a 3 piece top hose with really simple pieces of hose between plastic sections looked good

Like these, Looks good, but we had problems with a few of them.

141549
141550

[rangieman]

I was working on a td5 last week that had a 3 piece top hose with really simple pieces of hose between plastic sections looked good
Plastic and heat are never a good combo for the long term imo[wink11]
It get`s me the amount of newish car`s that come out with plastic in the cooling system :soapbox:
Just look at your Td5 radiator how brittle that small pipe fitting that snaps easily :bat:

[rick130]

Like these, Looks good, but we had problems with a few of them.

141549
141550

The genuine Tdi ones have been like that for about ten years and last well.
With the Tdi I reckoned seeing as they supplied the UK MOD for all those Wolf's they should be good.

[rick130]

Plastic and heat are never a good combo for the long term imo[wink11]
It get`s me the amount of newish car`s that come out with plastic in the cooling system :soapbox:
Just look at your Td5 radiator how brittle that small pipe fitting that snaps easily :bat:

Or the hoses from the bleed and EGR cooler.
I destroyed the EGR cooler one last week just trying to move it ever so slightly.

Guess what is no longer plumbed into the system and doesn't seem to exist. [bigwhistle]

[Roverlord off road spares]

The genuine Tdi ones have been like that for about ten years and last well.
With the Tdi I reckoned seeing as they supplied the UK MOD for all those Wolf's they should be good.

yes the TDI ones have been ok. it's the TD5 ones that have caused problems.

[rick130]

How about the fuel cooler, oil cooler and heater hoses Mario?

OE or aftermarket ?

Seeing as I have the inlet manifold out ATM I may as well replace all those too as they're coming up to 16 years old.

[Roverlord off road spares]

How about the fuel cooler, oil cooler and heater hoses Mario?

OE or aftermarket ?

Seeing as I have the inlet manifold out ATM I may as well replace all those too as they're coming up to 16 years old.

Rick,Most other hoses are ok, it's usually the ones that carry high pressure like the top rad hose that have been problems and any hose with a branch from it is also where there is vulcanising.
often we have found nicks from cutting blades where the over zealous third world country worker has nicked it during trimming of the excess rubber, not apparent until you fit them.

[laney]

Funny this thread came up I only just put a new genuine top radiator hose on and it leaks through the thread in the hose my next one will be silicone.

[CU55TM Disco]

Roose Motorsport in the UK do a top and bottom hose kit in Silicone.

or you can lash out and replace EVERY coolant hose in the car with their silicone offereings.