View Full Version : What am I doing in this corner ????
whitehillbilly64
15th June 2018, 06:12 PM
????
1985 V8, wheel bearing problems. Sat in shed for 10 Years. Scrappies were going to be called for removal.
whitehillbilly
whitehillbilly64
15th June 2018, 06:15 PM
Do I or don't I.
What to look for ????
whitehillbilly
barnfindseries3ffr
15th June 2018, 07:07 PM
Do I or don't I.
What to look for ????
whitehillbillyDo i
The v8 usually have a slipped liner if it's been too hot. Rust in the tailgate, check the firewall too. Very capable and comfortable landy if you can get it cheep.
Lee
p38arover
15th June 2018, 07:28 PM
I'm not sure what the question is.
Homestar
15th June 2018, 08:29 PM
Do i
The v8 usually have a slipped liner if it's been too hot. Rust in the tailgate, check the firewall too. Very capable and comfortable landy if you can get it cheep.
Lee
85 will have the 3.5 which doesn't have wet liners like the later 3.9 and 4.6 so not prone to this issue and is more tollerant of overheating. 👍😊
WHB - if it's complete and cheap, go for it, you'll need something to do soon once the series 3 is finished. 😁 Is the interior in good condition? Lovely cars to drive.
Looks straight enough on the pics. Side vents on the bonnet are aftermarket so maybe it's had overheating issues at some point, but so did my 86 over the years and it was good up until it got close to 400,000KM.
Homestar
15th June 2018, 08:34 PM
I'm not sure what the question is.
If he should or shouldn't take it home like a lost puppy. 😊
barnfindseries3ffr
15th June 2018, 09:11 PM
If he should or shouldn't take it home like a lost puppy. [emoji4]Take it home [emoji106]
pop058
15th June 2018, 09:57 PM
If he should or shouldn't take it home like a lost puppy. 😊
141305 [biggrin]
Meccles
16th June 2018, 06:43 AM
141305 [biggrin]
Take it home. What could possibly go wrong[emoji3]
barnfindseries3ffr
16th June 2018, 07:42 PM
If you have to ask..... It's already leaving stains on the driveway [emoji23]
DoubleChevron
17th June 2018, 11:29 AM
looks like the guards are chopped... Maybe spin the wheels and see if both sides turn the same way (locking or torque biasing diffs) ... and pop that bonnet and see if there is something bigger under it ........... eg: 350chev :D
seeya,
Shane L.
asdfas
trumpycam
17th June 2018, 12:14 PM
You know you want to.
Chivalry
17th June 2018, 09:35 PM
Looks like it was well loved at one point in it's life, I assume it's cheap or free if it was heading to the scrapyard. If it is a auto and still has original torqueflite box and LT230 transfer it's worth getting as it seems incredibly difficult to find non-butchered early 4 doors now, just like a 2 door.
Rust in the front floor pans and bottom of firewall, rust in sills, obviously top tailgate is usually stuffed, pre-EFI RRCs had bolt on front ends so any rust in inner wings or radiator support panels is arguably easier to fix. Good condition interior parts for pre-facelift models are also hard to find - the ones with seperate armrests on the door cards.
I have a 1985 that has only 160,000KMs on it and almost zero rust but missing original motor, box and transfer unfortunately. I'd love to fix it up to a good 'factory' condition but don't have the room to do it, I think the early 4 doors will be a sound investment soon.
whitehillbilly64
18th June 2018, 07:57 PM
Thanks for all the replies.
It had left the day I rang for details. One of his mates is now the proud owner.
Looking also at a D1. 'Spider' problems by the sound of it.
Keep you posted in D1 section.
Bye for now, Back to the Series section, where I really feel safe.
whitehillbilly
whitehillbilly64
18th June 2018, 08:39 PM
Im Back.
Just got a phone call from Daughters Boyfriend.
Heading home with car trailer and 4 wheel pressy [bigsmile]
Turns out he needed it gone, mate couldn't pick up for 4 to 8 weeks.
Heaps of spares.
More pics, and questions, to come soon.
Price !!!!!!!!!!!
FREE [biggrin]
watch this space.
whitehillbilly
Homestar
18th June 2018, 09:18 PM
Nice score. 👍
350RRC
18th June 2018, 09:57 PM
Thanks for all the replies.
It had left the day I rang for details. One of his mates is now the proud owner.
Looking also at a D1. 'Spider' problems by the sound of it.
Keep you posted in D1 section.
Bye for now, Back to the Series section, where I really feel safe.
whitehillbilly
This might help your mate out:
The Definitive Alarm Spider Post - Land Rover Technical Archive - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum (https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/86-the-definitive-alarm-spider-post/)
cheers, DL
whitehillbilly64
18th June 2018, 10:04 PM
V8 motor. Not original one. Single Carby, with extractors. Reason for the vents ?
Auto.
3 fuel tanks. Tail gate has no rust, it is dark.
Light surface rust on centre door pillars.
Small pin striping down the sides.
Manual wind up windows [bigsmile1]
Duel batteries..
10 years of dust and damp. Roof lining saggy.
Manual. Boot full of spares, more to pick up, once sorted.
Whitehillbilly
whitehillbilly64
18th June 2018, 10:06 PM
Thanks DL.
Motor 6/85
Chassis 9/85
whitehillbilly64
19th June 2018, 07:05 PM
some pics.
Two, Very, Very Heavy rock sliders, protect two extra fuel tanks.
Every thing works, when I added battery pack to Old battery, except RH high beam, looking at relays, maybe H4's added.
All lights, Blowers, Radios, CB and 6 stacker CD. work.
Just wont engage starter.
whitehillbilly
whitehillbilly64
19th June 2018, 07:12 PM
More
whitehillbilly64
19th June 2018, 07:17 PM
Motor, 6/85
5th Image, some sort of Temp sensor ???? Goes into hose.
Spare Carby has 354 Holden on tag. Two new carby kits.
whitehillbilly
bee utey
19th June 2018, 08:55 PM
That looks like a 4.4 litre P76 engine with a 2 barrel Stromberg carby off an emission Holden 253 engine fitted. The sensor was sold by Davies Craig to switch on an electric radiator fan.
whitehillbilly64
20th June 2018, 07:05 AM
4.4 motor.
where might I find some numbers on the block to confirm this.
Story was a Pervious owner had fitted a bigger motor to tow horse float
Thanks.
whitehillbilly
Lockee
20th June 2018, 09:13 AM
Bonnet vents to let out hot air. Look like house gal vents
mick88
20th June 2018, 09:23 AM
Looks like a good pick-up Shane.
It will keep you busy and off the streets for a while.
I will be following your thread with interest.
Cheers, Mick.
bee utey
20th June 2018, 06:56 PM
4.4 motor.
where might I find some numbers on the block to confirm this.
Story was a Pervious owner had fitted a bigger motor to tow horse float
Thanks.
whitehillbilly
Engine number is on a raised casting visible from above between the passenger side rocker cover and the firewall.
whitehillbilly64
20th June 2018, 08:45 PM
Hi Bee Utey.
Had a look, 3rd time down to front paddock.
Looked between 3 and 5 cyl and where you suggested. No Number.
Any pics of location. Any ideas
A few questions. Do both batteries need to be working and fitted to start ????
when I turn ignition switch to start, Brake warning light comes on, Front LH brake caliper not fitted, just off and tied back. Radio goes out.
Clicking from 2x3 inch black starter ???? solenoid , and what I think is a fuel solenoid, for the 2 spare tanks.
Can hear fuel pump running, fuel filter full and weeping from carby.
Full tank of fuel. 82 litres. Any good still ???? sat foe 10 years.
ttp://www.range-rover-classic.com/Home/land-rover-brochures/range-rover---australia
Scroll down to this. Range Rover Schuler FFRR 5000 - an Australian adventure experience
Check out vents, not same position as mine, but looks like same style vents.
whitehillbilly
whitehillbilly64
20th June 2018, 08:51 PM
What to look for to ID gearbox type.
Thanks.
whitehillbilly
bee utey
20th June 2018, 08:59 PM
Between 3 and 5 is nowhere near the firewall which is behind the engine. Look down the back of the rocker cover, number will be obscured by dirt.
Gearbox is probably a Ford Borg Warner 3 speed aftermarket kit or possibly a Torque Flite. A picture of its sump would help.
Check if the engine is seized, use a socket on the crank shaft.
whitehillbilly64
20th June 2018, 09:10 PM
Thanks.
Have to get a mirror to look down behind the rocker cover and firewall.
Check again tomorrow and report back in the afternoon.
Between 3 and 5 cyl was mentioned on UK forums for Possible, other engine numbers.
was going to use socket to rock back and forth.
Just need to drop some oil in each Cyl and let soak Overnite.
Thanks Again.
whitehillbilly
350RRC
20th June 2018, 09:15 PM
Between 3 and 5 is nowhere near the firewall which is behind the engine. Look down the back of the rocker cover, number will be obscured by dirt.
Gearbox is probably a Ford Borg Warner 3 speed aftermarket kit or possibly a Torque Flite. A picture of its sump would help.
Check if the engine is seized, use a socket on the crank shaft.
And the number will be short, like about 6 digits, and will start with 44.......... or something like that.
DL
bee utey
20th June 2018, 09:21 PM
And the number will be short, like about 6 digits, and will start with 44.......... or something like that.
DL
8 digits, format 44xx/xxxx
350RRC
20th June 2018, 09:23 PM
8 digits, format 44xx/xxxx
Well I was close.............
whitehillbilly64
21st June 2018, 06:10 PM
4th attempt, mirror, rag, torch and I found it.
44171918.
Thanks for the help finding it. **** of a place.
Will take some pics of the Auto Box, to ID it, tomorrow.
I see in the Haynes Manual, which came with it, mention a Diff lock ????
20/50 Oil in these motors, diff oil the same as my S3 ? ATM fluid in Gearbox, is nice and red, unless it has settled with dirty stuff at the bottom. Transfer case ? Swivel, oil or one shot ? Part No for small original inline fuel filter (Repco)
White mould in on the seatbelts, what would be best to wipe it with, also door cars have 'spotting' so need a wipe over.
Dot 4 brake fluid ?
The challenging side, it trying to work out what all the extra wires, relays and bits do [biggrin]
whitehillbiiy
Lionelgee
21st June 2018, 06:40 PM
Im Back.
Just got a phone call from Daughters Boyfriend.
Heading home with car trailer and 4 wheel pressy [bigsmile]
Turns out he needed it gone, mate couldn't pick up for 4 to 8 weeks.
Heaps of spares.
More pics, and questions, to come soon.
Price !!!!!!!!!!!
FREE [biggrin]
watch this space.
whitehillbilly
Well Done on your scoring the Range Rover, plus not having to pick it up yourself. I reckon you cannot get much better than that! Have fun with your new project.
Kind regards
Lionel
whitehillbilly64
21st June 2018, 07:06 PM
Thanks Lionel.
Better if it fires up [thumbsupbig]
Then wash. clean, blue slip rego.
The Hundreds of Hrs on my S3 Rebuild, never again.
Patina, and get going [bigwhistle]
Updates and more questions to come.
Big wash, clean weekend ahead.
Maybe Named Doc or Hudson, after the Old, heavy slow 'Cars" Hornet. 4.4 under the bonnet.[wink11]
whitehillbilly
trumpycam
21st June 2018, 11:18 PM
Don't want to be a wet blanket here, but I don't think it is a P76 engine, the raised oil filler is odd. Had a P76, Rover SD1 and still have RRC, and the P76 had filler on left side flush with rocker cover, carb conversion was pretty common in those days I still have a manifold with single Stromberg on it to suit Rover engine sitting in shed. It was a good conversion provided you did not want to climb any steep hills, which is way manifold found it's way back on the shelf. Hope I'm wrong because the Leyland was a very gutsy engine. As well as the P76, brother had one in his 2A shorty (not the smartest combination!)
Joe
whitehillbilly64
22nd June 2018, 07:09 AM
Hi Joe,
Had forgotten about steep terrain and Stromberg carbies.
Would the engine spell out type of motor.
Thanks.
whitehillbilly
350RRC
22nd June 2018, 08:50 AM
Don't want to be a wet blanket here, but I don't think it is a P76 engine, the raised oil filler is odd. Had a P76, Rover SD1 and still have RRC, and the P76 had filler on left side flush with rocker cover, carb conversion was pretty common in those days I still have a manifold with single Stromberg on it to suit Rover engine sitting in shed. It was a good conversion provided you did not want to climb any steep hills, which is way manifold found it's way back on the shelf. Hope I'm wrong because the Leyland was a very gutsy engine. As well as the P76, brother had one in his 2A shorty (not the smartest combination!)
Joe
I recently sold a 2 door with a worked 4.4. It had a raised oil filler on the LHS rocker cover right at the front. Had the same extractors as the one in this thread.
Didn't pay much attention to the brand of carb on it, but was similar to the one pictured here.
It had been modded with two or three brass tubes coming up out of the throat of the carb into the air cleaner a bit like periscopes out the top of a submarine............ obviously to stop flooding.
I know this RRC was very capable off road.
DL
bee utey
22nd June 2018, 11:49 AM
Don't want to be a wet blanket here, but I don't think it is a P76 engine, the raised oil filler is odd. Had a P76, Rover SD1 and still have RRC, and the P76 had filler on left side flush with rocker cover, carb conversion was pretty common in those days I still have a manifold with single Stromberg on it to suit Rover engine sitting in shed. It was a good conversion provided you did not want to climb any steep hills, which is way manifold found it's way back on the shelf. Hope I'm wrong because the Leyland was a very gutsy engine. As well as the P76, brother had one in his 2A shorty (not the smartest combination!)
Joe
Engine number says P76. Inlet manifold says P76. Rover rocker covers are a bolt on fit, just like the front cover assembly to have the fan at the correct height.
pop058
22nd June 2018, 05:36 PM
I thought the location/format of the engine number pretty much confirms it as a 4.4 ??
whitehillbilly64
22nd June 2018, 06:53 PM
plate on LH rocker cover.
6/85 so may be off original motor, vin 9/85
whitehillbilly
whitehillbilly64
23rd June 2018, 09:09 PM
Well update.
Re connected steering arms and the bar that attaches front axle to diff.
Spent a couple of hrs, washing the outside, then dragged it up to my top shed.
Soaked cylinders with a mixture of Diesel and light oil.
Checked oil, good but needs an oil change. Water, 1 ltr, topped up the reservoir bottle. I took off bleed bolt at the top of the radiator to see bright green fluid.
Then with plugs out, rotated forward and backward, and after a bit of movement, got full rotation.
Another couple of squirts down each Cyl, and more rotation.
Connected up started pack, on turning key to start, no power to excite wire to the starter motor.
A blown fuse somewhere, or anti theft switch. Is it fused in the main dash fuse box ????
So I made up a wire, that I could reach the battery. When I touch the Positive side it turned over slowly.
One plug, attached to a lead sparked with nice blue spark.
4 plugs in and cranked slower. 4 more and just turning, so pulled up 4x4 and jumped to it running plus starter pack.
Cranked nicely.
With extra fluid in Cyl's and probably wet plugs, quick spray of start ya bastard down the carby and it fired up.
couple more goes, then idled lovely, Guess it needs twin batteries to crank over the 4.4 ????
Then ran out of fuel on the main tank.
I need to check ATF in the gear box. Clunks into reverse. I do have handbrake on as no brakes. One caliper off.
Let it idle for 20 mins or so. Tapping noise appeared in RH head. I took off filler cap and added a bit of clean oil and noise vanished
Probably few more questions to come.
whitehillbilly
bee utey
23rd June 2018, 09:53 PM
If the starter motor is the original Lucas P76 one they're very easy to service. Undo the nut holding the starter motor wire to the solenoid, undo the two long bolts through the case, then carefully separate the parts. Blow out the dust, lubricate the two end bushes with engine oil and reassemble. Sometimes the starter pinion eats into the nose cone, a flat washer may have to be cut to size to push the drive shaft back to its correct position. Motor brushes push endways against the shaft and don't require anything other than a poke to make sure they're free and long enough to do the job.
whitehillbilly64
23rd June 2018, 10:21 PM
Thanks.
Seems to work OK, but handy info to service.
Any ideas about wire from the key in start position ?
bee utey
23rd June 2018, 10:38 PM
Any ideas about wire from the key in start position ?
Well it's auto so there would be a neutral safety switch fitted (and probably a relay as well) so it only starts in park and neutral. Time for you to look a little closer at the run of wiring and see where it all goes.
cjc_td5
23rd June 2018, 11:30 PM
Well done WHB. I love the p76 v8 in my stage 1. Such a lazy torquey motor to drive. Mine will happily pull away from 40km/h in 4th gear with heaps left still at 110km/h. It is just the series wind noise that limits the comfortable top speed.
whitehillbilly64
25th June 2018, 07:32 PM
Things coming together nicely.
Big clean up outside, and inside.
Replaced LH brake cylinder, But brakes will not bleed. No fluid, coming out nipples.
Thinking when the peddle let go, the Master Cylinder has gone down, but not back out.
Could someone tell me the Transfer knob positions. It goes HI/LO and to the Right and UP.
Will it also go down, to the right ???? Knob has H pattern on it, but could be off, God Knows !!!!
The knob was a silicone fit, but didn't. I cleaned out and filled with JB Marine, then will tap out new thread.
Went to take gearbox pic, but a bit dark.
Thanks
Whitehillbilly
whitehillbilly64
28th June 2018, 10:03 PM
Found all gears tonite on Transfer.
H pattern knob correct.
JB weld and new tapped hole works.
whitehillbilly
whitehillbilly64
29th June 2018, 06:17 PM
Brake Booster sticker states 'Metric Fittings'
Bought 6,8,10 and 12mm flange spanners. 7/16 fits the nipples nuts on Master Cyl !!!!
Metric Thread ????.
Old Fluid yellow, so bought Blue, DOT3. Apparently what is used on my 1985 RRC. Now can see when old fluid is out the system.
Any hints with Master Cyl ????
Undo 4 flange nut, some sort of warning light, then undo two 1/2 inch nuts holding it to Brake Booster, and it should pull clear ????
Bought some 80cc syringes to empty old fluid from MC.
Thanks.
whitehillbilly
DoubleChevron
29th June 2018, 08:47 PM
I don't empty the tank .... I just start at the back and pump the pedal until the new fluid comes though ................ :) Starting at the furtherest corner from the MC and working closer :) Those bleeds with a one way valve make easy work of it
seeya,
Shane L.
bee utey
29th June 2018, 09:05 PM
11mm nut size is metric, thread size is M10 x 1.0 from memory.
350RRC
29th June 2018, 09:19 PM
11 mm is close enough to 7/16 in most cases to use either.
DL
whitehillbilly64
30th June 2018, 07:30 PM
Pulled Master cylinder apart.
Lots Of 'muddy looking liquid.
Fully cleaned an assembled, but be buggered if I can bleed them.
Seals looked ok. Light hone with 800 Wet/dry.
Plunger comes out of booster, when peddle pushed.
Its a later MC, 1995 on Alloy stamp. But just doesn't want to pump.
Have another look tomorrow, in the daylight.
whitehillbilly
whitehillbilly64
30th June 2018, 07:37 PM
All apart.
Seals appear correct way round, as per my Manual.
whitehillbilly
whitehillbilly64
30th June 2018, 07:54 PM
Also discovered, when I went to change oil,
the Z86 filter does not fit. Has been changed to Z9 at some point of its life.
Back to Repco tomorrow.
One Z86 filter, Free. PM me.
whitehillbilly
Meccles
30th June 2018, 07:59 PM
You got a vacuum bleeder? About $25 at Repco. Makes bleeding these much easier. No pumping required
whitehillbilly64
30th June 2018, 08:08 PM
No, but can look to get one.
I have a one 'person' brake bleeder kit.
whitehillbilly
Meccles
30th June 2018, 08:22 PM
I use a vacuum bleeder makes it easier. Not sure about ‘one person ‘ kits what’s in that?
whitehillbilly64
30th June 2018, 08:32 PM
Toledo One-Man Brake Bleeder Kit - 310261 - Supercheap Auto (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Toledo-One-Man-Brake-Bleeder-Kit-310261/SPO83911)
pop058
30th June 2018, 08:44 PM
Also discovered, when I went to change oil,
the Z86 filter does not fit. Has been changed to Z9 at some point of its life.
Back to Repco tomorrow.
One Z86 filter, Free. PM me.
whitehillbilly
Z89 [biggrin] (is basically a stubby version of the Z9.
whitehillbilly64
30th June 2018, 09:00 PM
Completely different thread size.
Z86 just sat over thread.
whitehillbilly
Part
Z89A
Type
Oil Filter
Seam Diameter
94.00mm
Overall Height
99.00mm
Seal Outside Diameter
70.00mm
Thread
3/4-16-UNF-2B
Part
Z9
Type
Oil Filter
Seam Diameter
94.00mm
Overall Height
139.00mm
Seal Outside Diameter
70.00mm
Thread
3/4-16-UNF-2B
Part
Z86
Type
Oil Filter
Seam Diameter
96.00mm
Overall Height
135.00mm
Seal Outside Diameter
71.00mm
Thread
13/16-18-UNS-2B
pop058
30th June 2018, 09:15 PM
Z9 and z89 should both fit. The shorter Z89 (by 40 mm) is used to clear suspension IIRC.
bee utey
30th June 2018, 09:28 PM
Z86 fits P76 engines with P76 timing covers. Range Rover timing covers are fitted to P76 engines in RRC's so that the fan clears the chassis cross member, and unsurprisingly run the correct RRC oil filter. Z9's are standard fitment until the introduction of sandwich plate oil cooler adaptors.
whitehillbilly64
30th June 2018, 09:40 PM
Thanks for the replies.
The pic is the one I took out, so the larger Z9 should fit ????
whitehillbilly
Homestar
30th June 2018, 10:03 PM
I use a Z9 on mine.
350RRC
30th June 2018, 10:25 PM
Do you have a manual with the correct bleeding procedure?
I.E. You know about the nipples on the inboard side of the front callipers?
DL
whitehillbilly64
1st July 2018, 07:18 AM
Thanks.
Yes have a manual.
Notice one on the top, then outer and inner lower ones, on the fronts, single to the back.
Just don't seem to be able to prime the MC.
Meccles
1st July 2018, 08:29 AM
The vacuum bleeder is your friend in this as it eliminates need to pump to prime. The one man kit is primarily for a primed working system. I only pumped mine once bled to extend the caliper pistons.
whitehillbilly64
1st July 2018, 09:06 PM
Could anyone please tell me what the plastic tag does on the brake warning switch, on this pic.
Also next to switch in second pic.
Thanks.
whitehillbilly
DoubleChevron
1st July 2018, 10:16 PM
just a guess.... but I'd say you tighten it with that (finger tight). So you don't smash the plastic housing by using a tool on it.
seeya,
Shane L.
whitehillbilly64
2nd July 2018, 06:42 AM
Thanks.
It spins, not attached to switch
Also the switch has a recess up the side of the thread, allowing fluid to come out ????
whitehillbilly
whitehillbilly64
2nd July 2018, 06:45 AM
Nice use of excessive wire and 240v connectors. [tonguewink]
Behind the dash.
Homestar
2nd July 2018, 09:36 AM
Geez, the amount of dodgy wiring I’ve seen in RRC’s is unbelievable although yours isn’t anywhere near as bad as some I’ve seen (Grey_ghost - the wiring the PO of your 2 door did springs to mind.) [emoji16]
Meccles
2nd July 2018, 09:59 AM
And it’s funny so often I’ve heard of Landrover’s being S....t when often the issue traces back to dodgy work done previously by others.
DoubleChevron
2nd July 2018, 10:09 AM
Nice use of excessive wire and 240v connectors. [tonguewink]
Behind the dash.
My fix with every car I get is to snip out all of the "added" wiring..... whatever doesn't work, I then find what the actual issue is and fix it. I found with the '92 Rangies I couldn't do this.... As I didn't want to re-enable the factory alarm. That butchered wiring may well be to bypass the factory alarm. If so, just solder and heat shrink all of those connectors there.
seeya,
Shane L.
whitehillbilly64
2nd July 2018, 06:25 PM
Fair bit of the wiring, is radio and 6 stacker CD player under passenger Seat.
Now, where did I put my old CD's ????
Does the panel in front of passengers legs, house the AC unit.
A hose comes from either side, joins with a 'T' then exits through firewall.
AC drain of some type ????
Thanks.
whitehillbilly
whitehillbilly64
3rd July 2018, 06:35 PM
Full charged good S/H dual batteries.
Fires the 4.4 into life good now. [thumbsupbig]
whitehillbilly
Meccles
3rd July 2018, 09:25 PM
Be careful that v8 rumble is addictive [emoji3]
whitehillbilly64
6th July 2018, 05:45 PM
Playing with the brakes again.
Appears the flexi hoses have collapsed, both on RH front, Primary on RH side, Rear.
The LH secondary bled up, and gave one brake.
I now know how they work, and which nipple bleeds what system.
Do you think my local Repco or AutoOne, would have them have them????
Thanks.
whitehillbilly
Pedro_The_Swift
6th July 2018, 09:45 PM
If the ends are "common" then you only need one the same length off anything??
whitehillbilly64
7th July 2018, 02:14 PM
When you overrun your ramps, with no brakes.
Following wire from starter motor. seems to run back to the front and back in through the firewall ????
Found the panel in tunnel to get to the switch.
whitehillbilly
whitehillbilly64
7th July 2018, 06:16 PM
second attempt. [thumbsupbig]
now for a good look under the Rangie, including damage from overrun
Rocksliders, steps, fuel tank protectors did the job [bigwhistle]
Pulled tunnel cover off and discover linkages and Park/Neutral and reverse switch.
Quick clean, and a Play with selector, and still nothing on ohms reading, but was guessing it was some kind of Earth switch.
Knew which on was Reverse Light, As I looked to see Reverse Lights on.
Then putting it in and out of N, a few times, noticed the gauge flicker.
Suddenly had good reading on N. I wonder, brown wire back on starter, flick of the key and it started [biggrin]
Would start on P, but start I N then off, to P and started. Guess switch was sticking, after 10 years of standing.
Now starts in P or N.
One rear Number plate light to sort out. RH high beam, Brakes, Ball joint clean and new boots ( In Tool Box) then REGO ????
whitehillbilly
Meccles
7th July 2018, 06:19 PM
Great job! Love your investigative skills!
whitehillbilly64
7th July 2018, 07:01 PM
LH head light working.
Relay woken up. Can they 'stick' through lack of (10yr) use ????
Also did rear top shocking bushes.
Pic to come, soon.
Don't you love the split pin method. used my tool I made for my series.
whitehillbilly
DoubleChevron
7th July 2018, 07:05 PM
When you overrun your ramps, with no brakes.
Following wire from starter motor. seems to run back to the front and back in through the firewall ????
Found the panel in tunnel to get to the switch.
whitehillbilly
[bigrolf] [bigrolf] Someone else that admit to all the stupid stuff they do...... I was starting to think it was only me that did stuff like this .... [bigwhistle]
whitehillbilly64
7th July 2018, 07:27 PM
If my stupidity give someone a laugh, so be it.
As long as we learn from our mistakes. Under estimated the small throttle blip on the 4.4, and the 'level' top of the ramp [biggrin]
Strange feeling when you go from up to level, so quick.
Found a pipe and banjo fitting, above gearbox, and suspect a nut fitting in the engine bay, connected but black 'Vacuum' tube.
Notice no rev counter. Was it to the 3.5 Rover V8, or gearbox, for a Rev counter or something else.
Threaded Bell housing hole. Wading Plug ????
Also 'Bad' gearbox ID pics..
Thanks for the replies.
whitehillbilly
whitehillbilly64
7th July 2018, 07:38 PM
Hard to get 'good' gearbox pic.
What do you need to see to ID it ????
whitehillbilly
whitehillbilly64
7th July 2018, 07:50 PM
How would the dual battery system work, on my 85 Range Rover.
Last question tonite, Honest.
Thanks.
whitehillbilly
Meccles
7th July 2018, 08:35 PM
Threaded bellhousing hole is for wading plug they were supposed to be a proper 4x4. Re driving off the ramps- awesome! If I had a dollar for every stupid mistake or wrong decision [emoji849]at least we’re still here doing silly stuff.
bee utey
7th July 2018, 09:16 PM
Gearbox with cast on bell housing would be Chrysler Torque-Flite 727, they also ran the solid front drive shaft to get clearance from the sump. Borg-Warners had bolt on bell housings.
whitehillbilly64
8th July 2018, 10:02 AM
Other end of Banjo Tube, in engine bay, RH side. ????
whitehillbilly
whitehillbilly64
8th July 2018, 03:14 PM
Torque-Flite 727 it is then.
New ball joint Rubber boots were in the tool box. Ball joints them selves seems really good.
So pulled the steering rods apart, cleaned the ball joints up, sprayed in some grease, fitted new boots, then sprayed more in the top, to 'Pack' it.
Had to tap out the two holes holing the steering dampener, under the axle housing.
A NEW in packet, Tough Dog one in tool box. Could find anything wrong with original one,
except needing new bushes, which I had, front one of my girls cars, so used them and fitted original one.
Just new hoses, and bleed.
Getting close.
whitehillbilly
whitehillbilly64
10th July 2018, 06:01 PM
Ordered hoses from MR Automotives, Redland Qld, yesterday at 10.30am. Arrived today. [thumbsupbig]
Great, helpful service. Apparently Uk made hoses, from good Uk supplier. ????
Double the price of the cheapies.
5 hoses, $12 postage.
whitehillbilly
350RRC
10th July 2018, 07:33 PM
Ordered hoses from MR Automotives, Redland Qld, yesterday at 10.30am. Arrived today. [thumbsupbig]
Great, helpful service. Apparently Uk made hoses, from good Uk supplier. ????
Double the price of the cheapies.
5 hoses, $12 postage.
whitehillbilly
Goodridge braided hoses, guaranteed for life?
DL
whitehillbilly64
14th July 2018, 06:55 PM
New hoses fitted. Secondary system bled up ok.
Primary didn't.
Only way was to have the motor running, then eventually it came good.
couldn't stop the warning switch leaking. put in a small blanking plug.
Down the paddock for a run. RH CV clicked a bit. Back up, filled up with oil, also checked Transfer box.
No oil. Only two things I didn't check, but was on the list, before doing to much. 20/50 in Transfer case. OK ???? doing sort of flush, anyway
Back in paddock, all things seemed.
Shall I, yes causally down the road, nothing to much. Phone, in case a tow home was needed. couple of klms then back to a mates for a beer, before home. Brakes coming better with use.
Squeaking fan belt needs adjusting. Back on ramps tomorrow to check for leaks.
Also fitted the little fuel filter JS660, old one very dirty and a throw away one, in line after the main one.
Ready for Blue slip, soon,I think.
whitehillbilly
whitehillbilly64
16th July 2018, 05:37 AM
Just investigating some oil leaks.
Engine sump pan and auto gearbox pan had some bolts hand tight.
Deagrease tonight after work.
Whitehillbilly
Meccles
18th July 2018, 09:00 AM
Leaks? On a Landrover ? Never heard of them - not leaking from somwhere[emoji3]I’ve got diff oil from leaky rear diff pinion seal to clean up when I get home. And replace pinion seals front and rear.
whitehillbilly64
13th August 2018, 07:38 PM
Hi,
Need to replace LH flasher globe, on the dash.
Easy job ????
thanks
Homestar
13th August 2018, 10:04 PM
Yeah, not too hard. Pull the binicle off and follow your nose.
whitehillbilly64
14th August 2018, 06:53 AM
Thanks Gav,
will have a look.
whitehillbilly64
18th August 2018, 06:13 PM
What other donk, rather than the P76 would be good in a Classic with a TorqueFlite auto box ????
thanks
whitehillbilly
loanrangie
18th August 2018, 07:00 PM
Holden V8 or even a Mopar.
pop058
18th August 2018, 10:07 PM
What other donk, rather than the P76 would be good in a Classic with a TorqueFlite auto box ????
thanks
whitehillbilly
As much as I am NOT a GM fan, an LS1 is a cheap reliable engine option.
bee utey
18th August 2018, 10:44 PM
If you're chucking out the motor do yourself a favour and get rid of the trans too. 3 speed autos are pretty horrible to drive compared to a ZF 4 speed auto.
whitehillbilly64
19th August 2018, 06:23 PM
I spoke and met the previous owner.
About $3,500 has been spent on it.
Heads were done up, skimmed, valves and seals done.
He recons its 4.7. not std 4.4. Oversized ????
lots of bits replaced. He added the extractors.
May have a idea what the toggle levers control. Extra fuel tanks.
But added it used a lot of fuel.
Any way, a bill of sale, he wanted nothing, but I gave $200
which him and his wife seemed quite shocked with.
Maybe blue slip this week. keep you posted.
Gas conversion ????
whitehillbilly
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