2A Dip Switch Floor Mounted

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Can someone please confirm that the following description is correct?

The dip switch on a 2a has an earth wire. A separate wire connects to the second terminal on the dip switch. There is a third wire that goes from the third terminal and carries power to the high beam - when the dip switch is depressed towards the floor.

I have traced this circuit until it reaches a clone of a Hella four pin square headlight relay. There is power to the post of the headlight relay - from there no power is reaching the headlights.

The low beam circuit does not pass through the dip switch.

No power is reaching the tail lights either.


Kind Regards
Lionel

[1950landy]

I would think you one terminal would be power in one terminal for low beam & one terminal for high beam , I would not think one would go to earth . The tail lights should be a sepperate circuit combined with the front park lights & usually running through a fuse. Unless some one has done something different when fitting the relays.

[gromit]

Just checked a II & IIa Workshop Manual and as 1950landy said.....there is normally just power to the switch and then a feed to the main beam & dip beam.
It's just a changeover switch that supplies power to either the dip beam circuit or main beam circuit.

Sounds like the PO has re-wired the headlight operation. Maybe when the dipswitch is operated it puts on the high beam as well as the dip beam. Who knows until you work out the circuit.



Colin

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Is it the normal design that the toggle switch for Head Side Lamps can turn the lights on without having to turn the Ignition Switch on first?

The head Side lamps on my 2A shortie can currently come on independently of the ignition switch; whether they are meant to or not.

Kind regards
Lionel

[JDNSW]

Yes. Headlights with any linkage to the ignition were only thought of long after Series Landrovers finished production.

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Lucky me - there are five wires all of equal length and all capable of being readily connected to the dip switch.

It would be of great help if someone could have a look at their 2A and let me know what colour wires and traces are meant to go on the three posts?

Currently, there is a piece of flexible conduit that comes out of the tunnel a couple of centimetres from the dip switch. From this conduit there are two black wires that are connected into a single female spade fitting. A single black wire with a similar fitting; and a red wire with a similar fitting.

Then there are two single wires that are definitely add-ons. These add-ons currently go through a hole in the floor and then travel through some split-tubing conduit to the recess in between the radiator and the grille - where they connect to two separate Hella-clone 4 pin headlight relays. One wire out of these two add-on wires are live.

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I found a coloured circuit diagram on line - it shows how things should look. Accessed June 23 2018, from Wiring Diagram - Series IIA Negative earth | WorkshopManual.com
(http://workshopmanual.com/doc/c1072-land-rover-series-ii-wiring-diagram-series-iia-negative-earth)
If the connections to the dip switch were as per the circuit diagram suggests then the wires could be arranged like the shown on the modified diagram. I am presuming that when the switch is depressed down then this connects with the high beam "on" circuit which is blue with a white trace. When the dip switch is not depressed then this connect to the dipped or "low beam".

Or is this all just too simplistic???

Kind regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I have been thinking about the five wires - 3 old and 2 "new" located near the dip switch.

The two new wires could have been installed because something was wrong with the old wires.

Hopefully, one of the old wires is carrying power from the light switch.

Why only one of the two new wires are carrying power could be due to the dip switch itself being unserviceable.

I wonder if places like Autopro, Supercheap or Repco sell floor mounted dip switches on a Sunday? It has been decades since I last bought a dip switch from an auto-parts discount store.

If a new dip switch is available I will install a new wire from the "light switch" and fit it to the single post on the dip switch. I will then fit the two "new" wires and see if a new dip switch will allow each wire to function as it should - one dipped, or "Low" beam; and the other "High" beam.

If this works out then good bye surplus wires.

Fingers crossed it works out with a new dip switch.

Kind regards
Lionel

[1950landy]

Do you have a multi meter / OME meter to test the switch . You need to find the correct pole to connect the power wire to . If you get it on the incorrect terminal you will only have power on two of the terminals. At least with a multi meter & a long length of wire you can checket the full circuit with out using any battery power , it will also show if there is any wires going to earth that shouldn't be. That way you don't burn out any wires when testing the circuit.

[JDNSW]

Note - the floor mounted dipswitch does not have an "up" and "down" position. It provides two circuits (high and low) which switch to the other one each time the switch is pushed (until it clicks).

[1950landy]

Going by my S1 work shop manual the power from the light switch shouls be a blue wire , low beam should be blue with red trace & high beam should be blue with white trace . The colours can be hard to see with old dirty wiring .This should be the same on your vehicle as they are STD on all Lucas wiring circuits. The wires to tail lights & park lights should be red . Earth is always Black. Lucas used a standard wiring colour code on most if not all vehicle weather the vehicle was a LR , Jaguar or Morris. The colour coad works untill some one decides to ad wires & instead od buying the correct colours the use one or two colours for everything .
Grrrrrr makes it hard for the next owner. When adding wires to my vehicles & correct colours are not available I usually photo copy the wiring circuit then add the new wires to the circuit with there colours then keep a copy with the hand book & also the work shop manual.
Aso if you look at the switch some were near the terminals should be marked B for battery power then it won't matter which of the other terminnals you hook the high or low beam wires to. Some switches may have numbers instead of letters markes on them. It is always best to use a multi meter / OME meter to test the circuit , you can use a test lamp but that means you are using 12v battery power & if you connect something up wrong you could have a fire. The meters are available fron Supercheap ect at a reasonable price.

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Well I have had a win. The dip switch was ractus cactus. I went to AutoPro and the Land Rover is now sporting a Narva dip switch for a Ford. There was a Holden dip switch on the shelf as well. However, the Ford's terminal arrangement is more similar to the Land Rover's.

I replaced the wires and tried to get colours off the shelf that were close as the proper Land Rover circuit arrangement as I could. Dipped beam (Low) is blue. Sightly away from code finds the High beam sports a purple wire.

One click of the dip stick and the wire for Low beam has power on. One more click and the wire for High beam has power.

Now I just have to sort out the relay arrangement. Plus, find out where a short circuit is that keeps blowing one of the "Lights" fuses. Despite my isolating and taping all the bare wires, something is still going awry when one of the mess of wires moves within the tangled web.



Kind regards
Lionel

[1950landy]

Ford switch would be better than a Holden switch anyway . HAha:Rolling:. You can see I don't like Holden's , well I do like Holden's up to when they started making Commodores then they went down hill. :thumbsdown: