6BS wire thru firewall?

[mike7]

Hi all,

I want to have an Anderson plug in the rear cargo area of my D4 and am having trouble trying to find a suitable hole/grommet I can use to get the wire from the engine bay to the inside of the car.

Im not fussed if it’s driver or pax side but would prefer as high up as possible, has anyone done this?

Any intel most appreciated.

Cheers
Mike

[loanrangie]

Driver side to right and down from booster is a spare grommet, then feed over to a pillar and down behind kick panel and under the will trims into the channel that runs to the rear door area.

[Bigbjorn]

Why not just run the wires along the chassis, drill a hole in the floor where you want the wires to end up and use a suitable size grommet or cable gland to seal it up.

[ajge]

Why not just run the wires along the chassis, drill a hole in the floor where you want the wires to end up and use a suitable size grommet or cable gland to seal it up.

Don’t do that. If you ever need a body off repair that will be problematic.

[Bigbjorn]

Don’t do that. If you ever need a body off repair that will be problematic.

Rubbish. In the unlikely event of anyone needing to take a body off for repair then just cut or disconnect the wires and hook them back up afterwards.

[scarry]

Don’t do that. If you ever need a body off repair that will be problematic.

I have thought about this as well.
Only a remote chance the body has to come off,then if it does,its only one more wire to disconnect.
The main issue would be trying to run it where it is not vulnerable to damage or chafing.

Not much easier to run it underneath anyway,once through firewall,the trims come off pretty easily and there is enough room under them.

I pushed mine through a grommet somewhere above the accelerater pedal,but can't remember exactly where.It was difficult to get through though.

[ajge]

Rubbish. In the unlikely event of anyone needing to take a body off for repair then just cut or disconnect the wires and hook them back up afterwards.

Ok

[DiscoJeffster]

I ran along the chassis to the rear tow point for what I needed (power camper). That was simple enough. I know when I get to the need for a body off I will drop the wire at the front at the battery to free that up and at the rear. It’s all of 5 minutes work before I take it somewhere where it’s body off. Wire is insulated with additional protection at all exposed points as well as being protected by a circuit breaker.

[drivesafe]

Rubbish. In the unlikely event of anyone needing to take a body off for repair then just cut or disconnect the wires and hook them back up afterwards.
It is not rubbish.

There have been quite a few cases, where the owner has had wiring done by someone else, who did not know about the body off requirements and the owner was also unaware the wiring was in the wrong place, and this is usually trailer brake wiring, and the Disco has gone in for servicing.

When the body was removed, the wiring was torn out and it is not the workshop’s reponcibility to repair the damaged wiring.

If YOU know the wiring is in the chassis, and YOU know there is work to be done requiring a body off fix, YOU can carry out the disconnects required prior to YOU take the disco in for a service.

So if YOU want to take a short cut, go right ahead, but others have paid dearly for that same short cut.

It is far safer just to run the cabling through a Disco, in the first place, right beside Land Rovers wiring. Then there are no issues should a body off be required and absolutely no need to drill holes in the floor or anywhere else.

[LRD414]

.... am having trouble trying to find a suitable hole/grommet I can use to get the wire from the engine bay to the inside of the car ....


Driver side to right and down from booster is a spare grommet, then feed over to a pillar and down behind kick panel and under the will trims into the channel that runs to the rear door area.
Some extra details and photos in post #38 of the D4 electric brakes sticky thread; link & example photo below:

D4 Electric Trailer Brake Wiring (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/the-d3-d4-sticky-zone/97935-d4-electric-trailer-brake-wiring-4.html)

Cheers,
Scott

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/161.jpg

[mike7]

Thanks, I’ll try locate the grommet on the drivers side, I don’t want to drill new holes if I can avoid it.

Good post regarding issues if separating body from chassis, I didn’t think about that. I have an Anderson plug at the rear of the car that runs underneath the car to rear bumper so definitely a factor

[Disco4Dave]

My D4 has 6B&S running underneath to the rear tow point in a chassis-off safe way, and 8B&S through the firewall and along the sill to the rear cargo area.
I don't know if I would want to try and get 6B&S through the car.
Plus I also have a radio antenna and another circuit through the grommet near the brake booster which would probably preclude getting a 6B&S pair through there as well.

[mike7]

Thanks for the info DD,

I’m sure I could get away with 8 B&S, I will have a DC-DC charger back there anyway for the battery pack.

Is running a fridge of the cig socket in the back OK? I’m looking at a Dometc CFX75, draws about 8A flat out and just thought the cig sockets would be pretty close to this limit?

Cheers
Mike

[loanrangie]

Thanks for the info DD,

I’m sure I could get away with 8 B&S, I will have a DC-DC charger back there anyway for the battery pack.

Is running a fridge of the cig socket in the back OK? I’m looking at a Dometc CFX75, draws about 8A flat out and just thought the cig sockets would be pretty close to this limit?

Cheers
MikeI wouldn't use the cigi socket for a fridge.

[Disco4Dave]

Agree with not using a cig lighter socket. They have poor current capability an d mechanical stability. I have an anderson plug in the rear compartment for the fridge. If I have to connect something with a cig lighter plug, there is an anderson plug to cig lighter socket adaptor that came with the fridge.

[LRD414]

Is running a fridge of the cig socket in the back OK? I’m looking at a Dometc CFX75, draws about 8A flat out and just thought the cig sockets would be pretty close to this limit?
While far from ideal and not a very reliable socket type the current capacity is suitable at 15A.

Scott

[drivesafe]

I’m sure I could get away with 8 B&S, I will have a DC-DC charger back there anyway for the battery pack.
If you run 6B&S cable, there is no need for a DC/DC device. Your alternator will then be able to charge a bank of batteries far quick than any DC/DC device can.

[bee utey]

I wouldn't use the cigi socket for a fridge.

There are now readily available power outlets to fit fag lighter plugs and they're quite good. They have internal notches to retain the side springs. I've installed quite a few over the last couple of years and they haven't been troublesome at all. Beats rewiring all the plugs in a bloke's 12V kit.

[mike7]

you mean removing the socket and replacing with the new type you mentioned or is it some sort of adaptor that fits what's there now?

Re the DC-DC charger, its there to act as an isolator and is also the solar charger when I use the battery pack out of the car.

Cheers

[loanrangie]

There are now readily available power outlets to fit fag lighter plugs and they're quite good. They have internal notches to retain the side springs. I've installed quite a few over the last couple of years and they haven't been troublesome at all. Beats rewiring all the plugs in a bloke's 12V kit.

Yes i fitted 1 in the rear but the factory socket is not the best and in a crap location.

[Redtail]

Having installed a Traxide kit, and then going back later to install a coax antenna cable for the UHF radio, I can recommend the following tip to get cables through that driver's side grommet.

Pull the grommet out from the engine bay side. In my case, no chance of losing it as the Traxide cables were already through it. It's much easier to stretch the opening for the second cable. Once threaded through the firewall, it's easy to push the grommet back in place.

[mike7]

Thanks for the tip, I’m going to attempt this next week and will heed of your advice.

Im thinking of mounting my CB antenna on a roof rack towards the rear of the car so can’t wait for the fun in trying to route the cabling into the car from the rear. I can’t deal with staring at an antenna out the front, yeah I know first world problems.

Adios
Mike