D2a Electrical Issues. Please Help.

[Vinnie]

Hello All,

I have started getting some electrical issues with my 2003 V8 Auto Disco 2a.

I have the Traction Control, Down Hill Decent Control, ABS and Handbrake lights come on the dash of the disco. I've had it checked by a local LR mechanic and the fault comes up as low output on the right rear speed sensor. The first diagnosis was that the joins in the speed sensor cable running from the right rear to the front of the car were faulty, hence a new cable (with no joins) was installed and the fault cleared. That lasted a week before the lights on the dash returned. Fault checked again and was the same, so this time the right rear sensor was replaced, fault cleared. This lasted 2 days before it returned. Fault checked and was the same again. The mechanic cleared the fault codes for me and they returned again after about a week, during which time the mechanic had said that after several inquiries that there was a recall on my model vehicle for the wheel hub assembly (apparently due to metal filings in the hub assembly interfering with the ABS sensor). He was certain this was my issue. Wheel hub replaced (very expensive) and the fault came back the next morning, and yes, the same fault.

I am at a loss, as so it seems is the LR mechanic. This fault only occurs at very low speed (highest speed I have been doing when it has come on is 26 km/h), most of the time leaving my driveway, just touching the brakes. When it first comes on and for several times after the first, if i turn off the car and start it again it clears. It's only after several times that it comes on and stays on. Apparently what is unusual is that the handbrake light comes on when the fault occurs.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated as I can't justify throwing money at the car, when clearly it's not fixing the problem.

Thanks in advance.

Vinnie

[donh54]

Hello All,

I have started getting some electrical issues with my 2003 V8 Auto Disco 2a.

I have the Traction Control, Down Hill Decent Control, ABS and Handbrake lights come on the dash of the disco. I've had it checked by a local LR mechanic and the fault comes up as low output on the right rear speed sensor. The first diagnosis was that the joins in the speed sensor cable running from the right rear to the front of the car were faulty, hence a new cable (with no joins) was installed and the fault cleared. That lasted a week before the lights on the dash returned. Fault checked again and was the same, so this time the right rear sensor was replaced, fault cleared. This lasted 2 days before it returned. Fault checked and was the same again. The mechanic cleared the fault codes for me and they returned again after about a week, during which time the mechanic had said that after several inquiries that there was a recall on my model vehicle for the wheel hub assembly (apparently due to metal filings in the hub assembly interfering with the ABS sensor). He was certain this was my issue. Wheel hub replaced (very expensive) and the fault came back the next morning, and yes, the same fault.

I am at a loss, as so it seems is the LR mechanic. This fault only occurs at very low speed (highest speed I have been doing when it has come on is 26 km/h), most of the time leaving my driveway, just touching the brakes. When it first comes on and for several times after the first, if i turn off the car and start it again it clears. It's only after several times that it comes on and stays on. Apparently what is unusual is that the handbrake light comes on when the fault occurs.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated as I can't justify throwing money at the car, when clearly it's not fixing the problem.

Thanks in advance.

Vinnie

Check your battery SoC. Put it on the charger overnight, and see if the fault appears next morning. My D2 is very sensitive to battery State of Charge issues. Even if the battery spins the motor over fine, a low state can bring on the dreaded amigos, as well as other warning lights.

Otherwise, there are a number of fixes available, many of which you can do yourself, so you're only up for parts cost. Search this forum (from the bottom search box) for "3 amigos", or "Option B"

If your vehicle was subject to a recall (and it hadn't already been done) then it shouldn't have cost you anything to get a dealer to do the hub.

Actually sounds like you're throwing money at your mechanic, rather than at the car! [bigwhistle]

[ballbag]

I always want to suggest Option B but in this case the fault is the same each time and isolated to one wheel so not sure if relevant. Then again, no-one is ever certain of anything regarding these faults.

I’d also check your battery and both terminals. The factory terminals are ****e and often make poor contact.

Hopefully Sierraferry will chime in with info on what the 4 dash lights mean.

Something else to look at......I’ve noticed after recent hub changes that different branded hubs issue different gaskets and o-rings (or none at all) for the ABS sensor.

Perhaps the ‘low output’ signal is due to the sensor not sitting deep enough in the hub. Or too deep?

So wheel off, brakes off, undo sensor allen head bolt, remove metal gasket if it has one, try again. Just a thought. Takes 15 mins.

[thai_tiger]

fuse panel circuit board is worth a look they seem to bring some odd faults such as the h/brake light coming on.

by the way German Shepherd best dog in the world[thumbsupbig]

[Lemo]

Just a few questions to clarify what was done.

Replaced whole sensor cable to the slabs unit including the plug connections?

When they replaced the hub was it whit a complete new sensor as well??


Just out of interest I had a similar fault on the front right wheel, new sensor replaced problem still there..... would clear every time! But same would come back just as your while driving out the drive or a very low speeds.

So just kept clearing fault until I was able to get a new sensor. But..... while waiting on and deciding on a course of action, didn't really want to replace the hub! On morning the amigos came on then after driving down the road for a bit they when out and haven't been back!!!! It's like it finally recalibrate to the new sensor????
All TC, HDC and ABS systems working as well.
Got me stuffed as to why it's working now??

Cheers Lemo

[donh54]

Something else I just remembered. There was a thread a while ago about someone who found that the hub(s) they bought had a different number of teeth on the ABS ring than their original one did.
PS. I hope you kept the hub that was replaced - at the sort of prices they go for (even the cheap and nasty ones!), it'd be handy as a spare, especially since it seems there was nothing wrong with it!

[Bohica]

Check your battery SoC.

What voltage should it be?

Thanks

Julian

[sierrafery]

Check the connection in attached connector C0378/0392 pins 3 - 4 eventually give it some contact spray, the red brake warning is normal to come on together with the 3 amigos cos it's part of the diagnostic protocol(see attachment), actually it should come on every time but in reality it used to come on mostly on sensor related fault codes

[Vinnie]

Thanks to everyone so far, unfortunately I am not the best mechanically, can do basic service etc, but leave everything else to mechanics. My normal mechanic is not a LR person and I have had a LR mechanic down the road look at this so far. In fairness to him he has been very good, in that when he originally replaced the cable from wheel to engine bay it was done so there are now no connections between the wheel and the computer. When the fault came back he replaced the wheel sensor free of charge and when the fault came back again he made inquiries (I have to take his word for it) with contacts he has in the UK and hence the wheel hub assembly thought. Unfortunately that has turned out to be a waste of money and I don't have the old one as a spare (annoying) but he did't charge for labor on the install (and I did check the price of the part to make sure I wasn't being duped on the price). My battery seems fine. I have a voltage monitor installed in the car and it's where it should be. The sensor wasn't replaced when the wheel hub was done as it was new and only 2 weeks old. I will try the connections and go from there. Any more ideas please keep them coming, the more the merrier. Once again, thanks.

Vinnie

[Lemo]

So you've had two new sensors installed? Or just one? And what brand was it? Think I read about cheap ones not working as the length that went into the hub was incorrect?
New hub with correct reluctor ring teeth count?

Might need to get it plugged into a tester again and get them to check the sensors are registering correct and even readings, you can do this with a nanocom, might also be a good idea to have the ohms readings done from the plug at the slabs unit to confirm the new sensor is within range. Sierrafery will be able to give you the range as I don't have it handy at the moment.

Also what's everyone's opinion on a faulty slabs unit causing this? Could get a know one and try to rules that out?

Best of luck! Can be very frustrating at times!

Lemo

[DAMINK]

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/d9/3d/d6/d93dd6f103c6c2ef32ae2b095c86fae3.jpg

[Bohica]

Check the connection in attached connector C0378/0392 pins 3 - 4 eventually give it some contact spray, the red brake warning is normal to come on together with the 3 amigos cos it's part of the diagnostic protocol(see attachment), actually it should come on every time but in reality it used to come on mostly on sensor related fault codes

Nice picture, without the coolant header tank! Well I repositioned the header tank, opened up the connectors and gave it a spray. I do not have the yellow connectors, C0377 just C0391, in orange. What are they for?

Julian

[AK83]

.... I do not have the yellow connectors, C0377 just C0391, in orange. What are they for?

Julian

0377 is for ACE, I guess you don't have ACE.
0391 is for SLS, do you have SLS?

[Bohica]

Thanks, none of that imperialistic rubbish for me!
No ACE and No SLS.

[fredd63]

Used to get same problem on Jaguars. Usually it was the wires to the front wheel sensors, which showed up intermittently on turning the wheels. Get your mechanic to check the continuity of the wires on the other three wheels, and also check cleanliness and resistance of sensors.
Let us know what happens

fredd

[Vinnie]

Used to get same problem on Jaguars. Usually it was the wires to the front wheel sensors, which showed up intermittently on turning the wheels. Get your mechanic to check the continuity of the wires on the other three wheels, and also check cleanliness and resistance of sensors.
Let us know what happens

fredd

Thanks Fredd I will talk to my mechanic about it. It has been back there and was there for a week. Thoroughly checked by an Auto Elec, who couldn't find an issue. Mechanic said fault logged again while he had it, showed fault as both L&R rear wheel sensors, then happened again (at slow speed again), but computer hadn't registered fault. Then said when he drove car and at 70 km/h the TC light came on and car slowed to a stop. He turned car off and re-started it, and drove back to the workshop. Didn't do it again. He sent the computer (under the dash) off the be re-built (at no cost to me). Since I've had it back, the TC & ABS lights (no DC light this time) have come on 3 times, all at slow speed again, but when I have turned off the car and re-started it, it has cleared. Now the SRS light has come on. This is so frustrating now, I just now think the car is jinxed and will be a never ending problem.

Vinnie

[ballbag]

Initially fault was on one wheel only but has now appeared on another, correct?

I’d do the ‘option B’ fix.

[PhilipA]

Just to add a bit.
If a fault is cleared then the ABS light only will stay on until the car is doing about 10Kmh. I recalled this a couple of days ago when I had a RH front sensor intermittent message.
The fault has to occur 20 times before the three amigos illuminate. Again reminded by looking at the Nanocom.

I would still suspect that the hub has incorrect number of "cogs" at 55 rather than 60, although your recent problems sound like someone has added a few new faults.LOL

The SLABS could be faulty but it would probably also affect the speedo .
I would also trace the connectors between the ECU and slabs.
Regards Philip A

[Pedro_The_Swift]

As Phillip says,, get the invoice and check the number of teeth,, MUST be 60..

and before you buy anything else,, just do Option B,, cost you an hour of your Mech time, or literally nothing if you DIY..