ACE leak

[jwb]

D2 lost all ACE fluid from a leak somewhere at the rear. The fluid is all over the underside of the truck around the rear actuator.
Will look for the source of the leak. The reservoir was drained so the pump ran dry. I know they don't like this.
How do I know if the pump is stuffed? Does it just not pump anymore?

[onebob]

D2 lost all ACE fluid from a leak somewhere at the rear. The fluid is all over the underside of the truck around the rear actuator.
Will look for the source of the leak. The reservoir was drained so the pump ran dry. I know they don't like this.
How do I know if the pump is stuffed? Does it just not pump anymore?

I had the same thing happen a few months back whilst i was maneuvering (sorta rally driving [smilebigeye]) through a highway roundabout when the ball joint my rear left anti roll bar link failed and separated and thereby the ACE ram suddenly fully extended and one of the ACE hydraulic pipes came into contact with the spinning rear diff / prop shaft flange damaging the pipe sufficiently enough to allow the ACE system to totally empty itself. After around 5>10 minutes of driving I noticed something wasn't right with the way the D2 was handling and i pulled over the check things over. Found oil everywhere underneath and thick oil mist coating the rear door and window. Popped the engine lid and found the ACE reservoir empty so i pulled the ACE relay to disable the ACE system and continued at slower rate to my destination. A local heavy vehicle workshop had the D2 for three days and performed their magic on the trouble hydraulic line. Fortunately my ACE pump hadn't self destructed and if you have access to one of the common diagnostic tools (a Hawkeye or Nanacom) you can check the operating pressure values and with the Hawkeye re-calibrate the ACE system sensors. If no access to a diagnostic tool start and allow the engine to run at idle and you should observe vigorous movement of the fluid in the ACE reservoir - if thats what you see then the pump is likely to be okay....

[jwb]

Thanks for the very useful information. Other person driving at the time noticed things weren't right so it wasn't driven far.

I have a Nanocom. I've been reading lots of useful stuff on the D2BC site in the UK about replacing pipes with hydraulic hoses sounds like what I need to do once i get under the car and see where the problem is then find a hydraulic place nearby.

If anyone has any suggestions please advise, I'm in the inner east in Melbourne.

[Roverlord off road spares]

After my near death experience with a hydraulic hose repair, I would stick to Metal pipes like the original fit. period. I assure you it is not a nice feeling on a corner when the system lets go and you are sliding towards a street light pole with your drivers door as the impact zone. Those ACE run at very high pressure, and I wouldn't go copper pipe like some dodgy repairs on the net either.

[jwb]

Had a look at the car today.

One of the rear flexible hoses to the actuator has been abraded and leaked releasing all the fluid
The anti-roll bar link on the actuator side has separated at the flexible knuckle.
Need a new link and ACE hose.

I've read the seals on the valve block can be problematic to fit - any advice appreciated.

[sierrafery]

The seal is not hard to fit, you tap it gently in with a rubber hammer as it has a special head for that which you throw away after, important is to clean well the hole from any deposit as to not hurt the new o-rings ... i used a rotary dremel tool with a small wire brush head. Also buy the plastic collets(ANR6700) from the beginning cos they are not expensive and the old ones will not lock well

P.S. it's good to put a bit of oil in the hole and on the o-rings before you push the seal in