Series IIA Restoration Project

[Damo89]

So I have just picked up a Series IIA 109 Wagon that seems to be in 'reasonable' condition. The motor turns over, there doesn't seem to be any rust and / or rot (a bit of surface rust that brushes off with a pass of the hand), but will still need a lot of TLC.

Seeing as this is the first time I have ever delved into vehicle restoration, I am after some advice on books, manuals, websites or any resources that I should be consulting before I begin to do any work. In my mind, I can imagine stripping the vehicle down, cleaning everything out, and slowly building it back up, restoring all the parts as much as possible to original condition. Keen to hear the experience of others here who have similar projects on the go.

[Homestar]

Always good to see another project starting. 😊

Have a read through some other threads here, there is a lot of good info. Yes, a good workshop manual is a must and they're out there as either copies or originals.

Oh, and of course the most important bit is - post pics often! 👍

[Damo89]

Always good to see another project starting. 😊

Have a read through some other threads here, there is a lot of good info. Yes, a good workshop manual is a must and they're out there as either copies or originals.

Oh, and of course the most important bit is - post pics often! 👍

Thanks Homestar :-) Would you recommend the Hynes manuals? I see both a workshop and a restoration manual is available.

Here is the pic of how she was found. Yet to decide on a name. Also, the big decision. Do I keep the colour original or go for something different?

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Any idea what these are? Original or add on?


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[67hardtop]

Looks like a late s2a possible ex military maybe ffr. Nice.

[JDNSW]

The side steps are non-standard (as is the bullbar). The grille is S3, and the mudguards at least identify it as ex-army. There will be other clues to confirm this.

[Homestar]

Yep, could well be ex military unless someone just liked that look and cut some gaurds down themselves, but it also seems to have a side battery compartment so could have been an FFR. Dual tanks too.

Will need more pics to be certain - any of the interior and engine bay? 👍😊

Personally I'd ditch that bull bar, doesn't suit IMO but I won't hold it against you if you keep it. 😁

[Homestar]

Oh - I'd see if you can find some factory workshop manuals. Will post a pic of what I mean.

Edit - Here's a good start - http://www.legionlandrover.com/manuales/Land-Rover%202-2A-3%20The-Green-Bible.pdf

[Damo89]

Thanks fellas. A bit more digging and yes, it is ex military as per this plate. However, the vehicle was actually built in 1970, but went into service in 1971. Any idea what this means for the seat belt laws?

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A few more shots

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[grey_ghost]

Those rear light protectors also suggest ex-military, although being a land rover almost anything can be retro fitted. [emoji3]

[Chops]

Nice. Looks like it might have been used as a camper with the curtains along the back.

[gromit]

The aluminium plate in one of your pictures is a 'repair' plate.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/855/41890401420_2f44ba46a5_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/26PHfUm)DSCF7646 (https://flic.kr/p/26PHfUm) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

So it appears mine was 'repaired' at 13Km and yours was at 19km (or 10 because someone wasn't too handy with the number stamps).
Whether that was really 'repaired' or whether it was when it was checked through the workshop and any intervening modifications carried out I'm not sure.

The seats in the back mean it was probably a GS (General Service) although anything can be changed around on a Land Rover (as mentioned).
As to seatbelts, I'm not sure about NSW. In VIC a lap/sash belt is needed for the outer seats and a lap belt for the centre from 1/1/71. The sideways facing seats probably need a lap belt (VicRoads data sheet isn't clear).

The decision you have now is whether to get it back to Military spec. or leave it as is.
Mine is fairly original (still has Dymo Tape warning on the dash etc.) if you need any pictures let me know or the thread is here 2a GS Refurb ARN 178-334 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/leaf-sprung-military-land-rovers/125841-2a-gs-refurb-arn-178-334-a.html)
It's been a 'long term' project.......

Colin

[Damo89]

The aluminium plate in one of your pictures is a 'repair' plate.

So it appears mine was 'repaired' at 13Km and yours was at 19km (or 10 because someone wasn't too handy with the number stamps).
Whether that was really 'repaired' or whether it was when it was checked through the workshop and any intervening modifications carried out I'm not sure.

The seats in the back mean it was probably a GS (General Service) although anything can be changed around on a Land Rover (as mentioned).
As to seatbelts, I'm not sure about NSW. In VIC a lap/sash belt is needed for the outer seats and a lap belt for the centre from 1/1/71. The sideways facing seats probably need a lap belt (VicRoads data sheet isn't clear).

The decision you have now is whether to get it back to Military spec. or leave it as is.
Mine is fairly original (still has Dymo Tape warning on the dash etc.) if you need any pictures let me know or the thread is here 2a GS Refurb ARN 178-334 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/leaf-sprung-military-land-rovers/125841-2a-gs-refurb-arn-178-334-a.html)
It's been a 'long term' project.......

Colin

Wow thanks Colin, some great info. I've been pondering over the weekend, as Land Rover owners tend to do, and have come up with the idea to attempt (and attempt is the key word here) to rebuild from the ground up into something classic with a bit of a modern twist (that may even just be down to the paint job). In doing that, she will be fully decommissioned from military service.

Still, lots of pondering to do...

[Damo89]

The new arrival to the family is now safe and sound where it shall sit for the foreseeable future until I am booted out of the area at work where she is sitting [biggrin]

I have been reading and looking at other restorations for inspiration and one thing I am wondering is - is it possible to convert the bonnet from the military hook latches that are external to an internal catch?

Here is a pic of it - lost the sunroof on the Hume Freeway somewhere between Albury and Suttons Forest unfortunately, but I have decided to convert this one back to a canvas roof so no great loss.


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[gromit]

[QUOTE=Damo89;2836737

I have been reading and looking at other restorations for inspiration and one thing I am wondering is - is it possible to convert the bonnet from the military hook latches that are external to an internal catch?


[/QUOTE]

Using parts from a Civvie donor vehicle you could convert the bonnet to an internal catch. Series II & III had a latch through an opening in the grille so you might need to look for Defender parts.
Why do you want the internal latch ? Security ?
A lot of older Land Rovers had (fitted by the owners) a padlock hasp over the front edge of the bonnet so then just fit a padlock of your choice.

If you want to go back to a canvas canopy you might need to start saving.....
The bows can be expensive when they come up for sale and if you want a genuine looking military canvas they are also expensive. I paid about $1,300 for a reproduction some years ago. A civilian canvas might work out cheaper.


Colin

[JDNSW]

....
A lot of older Land Rovers had (fitted by the owners) a padlock hasp over the front edge of the bonnet so then just fit a padlock of your choice.
....

Colin

This was a genuine optional extra. I have never had a lock on the bonnet of any of my Series Landrovers, and never had any issues. My 110 has an external latch but comes with a factory lock that uses the same key as the rear door - but I don't think I have ever locked it.

I replaced the latches on my military 2a with the standard one for two reasons - firstly, I replaced the bonnet with a better one (rust in the frame), and secondly, they were causing cracks in the top of the mudguard, and they rattled.

[gromit]

This was a genuine optional extra.

John,
I didn't realise it was an option.
Maybe I shouldn't fill in the holes on my Dormobile where one was fitted. Possibly installed due to the overland travel at the beginning of its life ?

Colin

[Damo89]

Using parts from a Civvie donor vehicle you could convert the bonnet to an internal catch. Series II & III had a latch through an opening in the grille so you might need to look for Defender parts.
Why do you want the internal latch ? Security ?
A lot of older Land Rovers had (fitted by the owners) a padlock hasp over the front edge of the bonnet so then just fit a padlock of your choice.

If you want to go back to a canvas canopy you might need to start saving.....
The bows can be expensive when they come up for sale and if you want a genuine looking military canvas they are also expensive. I paid about $1,300 for a reproduction some years ago. A civilian canvas might work out cheaper.


Colin

Thanks Colin. I am looking to ‘civilianise’ the vehicle as much as possible. The external latches are also busted so they will need to be replaced anyway.

As dor the canopy, I was looking at replacing with a black canvas.

[JDNSW]

John,
I didn't realise it was an option.
Maybe I shouldn't fill in the holes on my Dormobile where one was fitted. Possibly installed due to the overland travel at the beginning of its life ?

Colin

It probably was. The kit is 332970 (2/2a), 320824 (S3) for the standard bonnet and 332969 for the the Deluxe bonnet. All consist of a hinged hasp attached to the underside of the bonnet with two rivets and a fastener like the ones on the tool box under the seat or the lockers in the back of lwb Landrovers held to the radiator support with three screws and nuts.

[Damo89]

A long time between posts.

A summary of the past 6 weeks:


No spark
Rebuilt Zenith Carb
Still no spark
Replaced distributor parts, leads and coil
Spark!
Engine kicks over running of Start Ya Bastard
Stripped out oil bath air filter and restored
Stripped out battery tray to restore
Stripped out radiator to restore
Looking for parts!!!


Will have to put a few photos up soon. Was an amazing feeling to get the engine running and know that it doesn't need that much work (yet).

[russellrovers]

A long time between posts.

A summary of the past 6 weeks:


No spark
Rebuilt Zenith Carb
Still no spark
Replaced distributor parts, leads and coil
Spark!
Engine kicks over running of Start Ya Bastard
Stripped out oil bath air filter and restored
Stripped out battery tray to restore
Stripped out radiator to restore
Looking for parts!!!


Will have to put a few photos up soon. Was an amazing feeling to get the engine running and know that it doesn't need that much work (yet).hi what parts are you looking for regards jim

[Damo89]

hi what parts are you looking for regards jim

Hi Jim.

Tyres, thermostat, speedo cable, new hoses for the radiator, wiring loom (have found one through vinwire in Victoria)...

I am also thinking of changing out the wing panels. I would like to get rid of the military ones and replace with the civilian version. HOWEVER.... I am not sure if I should be getting wings with headlights or without... The vehicle is an 11/70 build. It has the grill panel with the light cutouts. But it has the lights in the wings.... Unsure where the headlights would originally have been. I have seen a very rare grill for sale on ebay ($500!!!) that would be the one that went on between when the lights started going in the wings and the Series 3. Any ideas on that one?

[4bee]

I am also thinking of changing out the wing panels. I would like to get rid of the military ones and replace with the civilian version.



There are people who would give their left & right testicles to have Cutaway guards. It's the character of the vehicle IMHO.[bigsad]

[Damo89]

There are people who would give their left & right testicles to have Cutaway guards. It's the character of the vehicle IMHO.[bigsad]

They can save themselves the pain of castration and swap them with mine :-)