Immobiliser issues, PUMA 2012

[NT5224]

Hey folks

I know this has been discussed elsewhere. Apologies for raising it again. I’m currently at home out bush in The Territory and need to head off to Darwin later this arvo. Over the last couple of weeks Hectors Immobliser has been playing up (and now the passenger side door has locked and won’t unlock!) and I need to get it looked at back in Darwin.

But on the off chance I can’t get him started in three hours when I’m due to depart, what do you recommend I do? I think I have the EK code somewhere.

But I have read on here that multiple clicks of the remote key can sometimes fix the bug, or disconnecting the battery. I’m not at all confident with the vehicles more sophisticated electrical systems and don’t want to compound my problems in any way.

Is there a quick fix anybody has found?

Cheers

Alan

[DazzaTD5]

re locked door: You will find the front door lock actuator or harness is at fault and unrelated to the immobiler issue.

re crap immobiliser:
Its not sophisticated electronics, its simply crap, simple answer no.

Early Defender TDCi - Green coloured imobiliser (same as previous TD5) unit can be programmed off (but still must remain connected, this unit can also be repaired).
Next is a black cased unit with the same plugs as the green one was no longer available, i havent found anyone that can repair them yet.
Last model Defender TDCi has a chrome/black Plip is the apparently last generation and is still looking like its plagued with failure.

The whole thing is a total stuff up by Jaguar Land Rover.

[martnH]

You will probably need a replacement/spare 10as for puma

Green is better than black

And a nanocom to program the plip...


In fact you can never completely disable the immobiliser, as in you will always need a functioning 10as to start the car.

If your 10as is faulty, then........Your defender won't start even if you have disable the immobiliser....

[weeds]

You will probably need a replacement/spare 10as for puma

Green is better than black

And a nanocom to program the plip...


In fact you can never completely disable the immobiliser, as in you will always need a functioning 10as to start the car.

If your 10as is faulty, then........Your defender won't start even if you have disable the immobiliser....

There is a work around for removing the 10AS for the TD5’s, would have thought there would be a work around the the puma.

[Robmacca]

You will probably need a replacement/spare 10as for puma

Green is better than black

And a nanocom to program the plip...


In fact you can never completely disable the immobiliser, as in you will always need a functioning 10as to start the car.

If your 10as is faulty, then........Your defender won't start even if you have disable the immobiliser....

Bugger... I was under the understanding that through your nanocom that u could totally disable it......

I believe that using the old system that was used in the last of the D1's can be grafted into the 2.4 Pumas.... or so MR told me at least

[Dorian]

I believe that using the old system that was used in the last of the D1's can be grafted into the 2.4 Pumas.... or so MR told me at least

Mine went in my MY13 2.2, the car would often not unlock and I had to wait 10 mins and try again. Used to leave the windows down when I could, but often couldn't force the lock up. Worst episode kept me on the road side for 1/2 hour or so.
MR did the D1 graft for me, not cheap. So far I haven't had any problems but it often runs the locks down for 3 or 4 seconds which sounds pretty terrible. I've gone and serviced all of the lock mechanisms (which may have been my problem in the first place) but it still does the overlocking thing.

Cheers Glen.

[Rick Fischer]

Had similar problem and ahve just posted what I think is the fix.

See Probable cause - Probable fix - Isolater/immobiliser 10AS problem 2007+ (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/264701-probable-cause-probable-fix-isolater-immobiliser-10as-problem-2007-a.html)

What you need to do is disconnect the 10AS unit pug and then wait for a number of hours, 12 works :0) Overnight. reinsert the plug and if the isolater light starts flashing he is a goer. press the fob button to disarm and it should start.

While you are waiting go check both back door latch harnessses in the hinge line. In fact replace the wiring altogether and not with LR wiring or pommy cable. Fingers crossed it will be fixed permanently

Cheers

Rick F