Series III - SWB - New find - replace rusty rear spring hangers

[lammy]

Hi Guys,

I'm looking to buy my first Land Rover Series 3 SWB (link and pics below).

Land Rover Series 3 - SWB - Google Photos (https://photos.app.goo.gl/sL7z7Sgdapg3K2G87)

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From what I can gather the car looks good on paper but has a rusty rear spring hanger that I'm guessing will need to be replaced for a Vic roadworthy certificate?

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Keen to hear your thoughts on

1. the rust (is it likely to be passable for a Vic RWC?)
2. cost to replace the rusty section?
3. anyone recommendations for repairers in Victoria that could do it?

Cheers
Adam

[JDNSW]

It shouldn't pass roadworthy, but it is just possible that it looks worse than it is, and is just surface rust lifting the paint. If this is the case, some vigorous application of a wire brush and a scraper followed by trying to poke some holes with a screwdriver to show that is all it is, and touch up the paint.

On the other hand, if you can actually poke holes in it, as is quite likely, it will have to be repaired. From the picture, the rust seems to be mainly the chassis itself, not the spring hanger. The whole chassis should be carefully checked, as rust in other places is likely if it is in one location. (probably in places that are harder to see!)

The cost will depend entirely on how bad it is found to be, and will be mostly labour. I am not up to date with the Melbourne area, so I can't make any suggestions.

[gromit]

I saw that advertised and thought it was a bit expensive.

If it's the one I think it is it's very close to me if you need someone to take a look for you.


Colin

[Lionelgee]

Hello Adam,

The block of wood against the driver's side rear wheel suggests that some attention needs to be paid to the brakes as well! There could be more things wrong with the vehicle other than rust in the rear spring hanger.

The seats are not original - have they been engineer approved? Here in Queensland there would be a "blue plate" which proves the modification has been inspected and approved. If it has not been blue plated for the seats it is an additional cost for you.

It does feature an ex-army brush bar which is a bit of a bonus.

Kind regards
Lionel

[JDNSW]

........

It does feature an ex-army brush bar which is a bit of a bonus.

Kind regards
Lionel

But which will not pass a Victorian roadworthy. But no problem - its bolted on, and can be put back after the roadworthy!

[lammy]

I saw that advertised and thought it was a bit expensive.

If it's the one I think it is it's very close to me if you need someone to take a look for you.


Colin

Hi Colin, Its advertised in Bewick but actually located in Beaumaris. I'm hoping to check it out later today. Thanks for the offer mate. One of the issues I've had in this buying process is finding someone with expert knowledge that I could pay to help me do a pre inspection. Colin if you are up for it I might contact you if the search continues?

Cheers,
Adam

[lammy]

Hello Adam,

The block of wood against the driver's side rear wheel suggests that some attention needs to be paid to the brakes as well! There could be more things wrong with the vehicle other than rust in the rear spring hanger.

The seats are not original - have they been engineer approved? Here in Queensland there would be a "blue plate" which proves the modification has been inspected and approved. If it has not been blue plated for the seats it is an additional cost for you.

It does feature an ex-army brush bar which is a bit of a bonus.

Kind regards
Lionel

Thanks Lionel.

Ok so I am now the proud owner of a Series III - SWB Land Rover. I bought it. Next job is to get it road worthy.

[Lionelgee]

Thanks Lionel.

Ok so I am now the proud owner of a Series III - SWB Land Rover. I bought it. Next job is to get it road worthy.

Hello Adam,

Congratulations on your purchase!

Now just go online and do a quick sanity test. Do the test before you start working on the Land Rover and do the same test after about six months of working on it. See if you can tell the difference between the "Before" and "After" result. A similar thing would be a bank balance "Before" and "After"

After working on the brakes of my 2A SWB the difference in both sanity and bank balance levels was stark. Especially since the matter is still unresolved. For example, a complete set of brake springs are on their way from the UK.

Also, here is another challenge ... see if you can stop at just buying one. There will be that "bargain" parts car out there. Followed by one that will be "just too good to miss". After that the excuses just get lamer. "It followed me home"...

Ba ha haaawwwww :banana::banana::banana:

Kind regards
Lionel

[mick88]

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your purchase, overall it appears to be a reasonable straight vehicle.
As Lionel pointed out, unless the seats are engineered they will most likely get knocked back on the RWC inspection.
You may also find that you have to reach into your pockets a bit as these vehicles (Series 3) are now over forty years
old and unless the steering and brakes have been maintained they usually need a few dollars thrown at them for a
roadworthy. It also looks like the radiator may have been spitting out some rusty coloured liquid.
The other issue that often presents itself on RWC inspections is the condition of the shackle spring/chassis bushes.
For the novice they can be a real PITA to replace in the chassis, but there are plenty of tips here on the forum on the
best way to go about it. The battery looks like it is being held in place with a "gravity strap" so attention may be required
there too for the roadworthy.
I see the vehicle is on CPS plates, are you going the same way, or full rego?

Cheers for now and good luck.
Mick.

[lammy]

Hello Adam,

Congratulations on your purchase!

Now just go online and do a quick sanity test. Do the test before you start working on the Land Rover and do the same test after about six months of working on it. See if you can tell the difference between the "Before" and "After" result. A similar thing would be a bank balance "Before" and "After"

After working on the brakes of my 2A SWB the difference in both sanity and bank balance levels was stark. Especially since the matter is still unresolved. For example, a complete set of brake springs are on their way from the UK.

Also, here is another challenge ... see if you can stop at just buying one. There will be that "bargain" parts car out there. Followed by one that will be "just too good to miss". After that the excuses just get lamer. "It followed me home"...

Ba ha haaawwwww :banana::banana::banana:

Kind regards
Lionel

what a classic! made me laugh out loud.

[lammy]

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your purchase, overall it appears to be a reasonable straight vehicle.
As Lionel pointed out, unless the seats are engineered they will most likely get knocked back on the RWC inspection.
You may also find that you have to reach into your pockets a bit as these vehicles (Series 3) are now over forty years
old and unless the steering and brakes have been maintained they usually need a few dollars thrown at them for a
roadworthy. It also looks like the radiator may have been spitting out some rusty coloured liquid.
The other issue that often presents itself on RWC inspections is the condition of the shackle spring/chassis bushes.
For the novice they can be a real PITA to replace in the chassis, but there are plenty of tips here on the forum on the
best way to go about it. The battery looks like it is being held in place with a "gravity strap" so attention may be required
there too for the roadworthy.
I see the vehicle is on CPS plates, are you going the same way, or full rego?

Cheers for now and good luck.
Mick.
Hi Mick,

Yes the seats will need to be changed for the road worthy. The radiator core was replaced, as too were the shockers and bushes at some point not so long ago I think. The brakes might need attention as the car pulled to one side a bit in the test drive.

The guy I purchased it from has had the car for 20 years. He and his dad restored it together when he was 16 and has had it since. He and his dad seemed really nice which was part of the reason I bought this particular one. He was very open and explained all the things that he had done and still needed to do.

I've got a budget of $5k, hoping that stretches far enough to get her on the road. I'll be looking to put her on club plates. I did have visions of driving her to Cooma next year, lets see how it pans out. The one concern I did have is whether I'll need to replace the rear section where there was welding done to the rear spring hanger. Hoping my budget covers that.

Cheers,
Adam

[Lionelgee]

Hello Adam,

Being located in Melbourne means that there are a lot of fellow Land Rover enthusiasts nearby to you. Plenty of people who can give advice and possibly know of Land Rover friendly workshops where tasks like welding can be done. This forum is a wealth of practical hands-on experience and a world of knowledge about things Series Land Rover.

Enjoy the journey Adam.

Here is a tip about the Series Land Rover section (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-land-rovers) - below the division of Series into 1 - 2 and 3 lurks a generic "Series" section. If you just click on "Series" and hop to the "Series III" section you can accidentally miss a lot of information lurking in this generic section.

Kind regards
Lionel

[lammy]

Hi Mick,

Yes the seats will need to be changed for the road worthy. The radiator core was replaced, as too were the shockers and bushes at some point not so long ago I think. The brakes might need attention as the car pulled to one side a bit in the test drive.

The guy I purchased it from has had the car for 20 years. He and his dad restored it together when he was 16 and has had it since. He and his dad seemed really nice which was part of the reason I bought this particular one. He was very open and explained all the things that he had done and still needed to do.

I've got a budget of $5k, hoping that stretches far enough to get her on the road. I'll be looking to put her on club plates. I did have visions of driving her to Cooma next year, lets see how it pans out. The one concern I did have is whether I'll need to replace the rear section where there was welding done to the rear spring hanger. Hoping my budget covers that.

Cheers,
Adam

Does anyone want to have a guess at how much its likely to cost to get my Land Rover on the road? I'm hoping less than $5k but not entirely sure. Keen to hear the thoughts from you guys.

P.S. Took her ("Old Mate") for a drive today - every drive is an adventure - love it!

Cheers,
Adam

[JDNSW]

How much it costs to get it on the road will depend on a number of factors - most of which we do not know; and probably neither does anyone else!

1. Labour is likely to be the major component, so it makes an enormous difference whether you do the work (unpaid!) or pay someone to do it!

2. Do you just want to get it roadworthy, or are you a perfectionist? or somewhere in between?

3. You are certain to find issues that are not apparent. Some of these are likely to impact roadworthiness and some could be expensive.

4. The costs seem to add up a lot quicker than you think they will - for example, if new tyres are needed, there won't be much (if any) change left out of $1000 - there is 20% of your budget.


Apart from that, $5,000 seems to be a reasonable figure looking at the pictures.

Brakes pulling to one side - two likely reasons - if it has been standing for some time (even a couple of days in some climates) the working surface of the drums will have a light rust coating, which can be practically guaranteed to not be even. A few brake applications will wear it off. More expensive is also likely - contaminated brake shoes, with either oil from a leaking hub inner seal or brake fluid from the wheel cylinder. Not a big job, but you will have to replace brake shoes both sides, as well as fixing the problem. Other less likely possibilities are excessively worn drums and faulty brake adjusters. Probably the cheapest issue, but unlikely, would be a seized wheel cylinder.

Welcome aboard, and have fun.

[lammy]

How much it costs to get it on the road will depend on a number of factors - most of which we do not know; and probably neither does anyone else!

1. Labour is likely to be the major component, so it makes an enormous difference whether you do the work (unpaid!) or pay someone to do it!

2. Do you just want to get it roadworthy, or are you a perfectionist? or somewhere in between?

3. You are certain to find issues that are not apparent. Some of these are likely to impact roadworthiness and some could be expensive.

4. The costs seem to add up a lot quicker than you think they will - for example, if new tyres are needed, there won't be much (if any) change left out of $1000 - there is 20% of your budget.


Apart from that, $5,000 seems to be a reasonable figure looking at the pictures.

Brakes pulling to one side - two likely reasons - if it has been standing for some time (even a couple of days in some climates) the working surface of the drums will have a light rust coating, which can be practically guaranteed to not be even. A few brake applications will wear it off. More expensive is also likely - contaminated brake shoes, with either oil from a leaking hub inner seal or brake fluid from the wheel cylinder. Not a big job, but you will have to replace brake shoes both sides, as well as fixing the problem. Other less likely possibilities are excessively worn drums and faulty brake adjusters. Probably the cheapest issue, but unlikely, would be a seized wheel cylinder.

Welcome aboard, and have fun.


Thanks John, you raised some really good points.

Took "Old Mate" out to the mechanics today - its still an enigma to me how a simple drive can turn into such an awesome experience. If this keeps up I may just become the first Land Rover series taxi driver.

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[lammy]

Hi Guys,

Just had feedback from a couple of mechanics,

Mechanic 1: chassis is too far gone don't spend another cent on it, unsafe to drive a child in the car, would cost $15k to get it roadworthy.

Mechanic 2: Quote from body repairer = $2500 to repair chassis with an engineers certificate, and the large list of things needed for the road worthy below.

- front diff seals leaking
- engine mounts split
- radiator support rusted
- gearbox mount split
- rear diff hat leaking
- grill and apron support rusted
- whole exhaust rusted
- gear box housing leaking
- oil filter housing leaking
- steering damper bushes split
- brake lines stiff
- drag line ball joints leaking
- steering damper ball joints split/leaking grease
- body mounts rusted

Not sure what to do?

Any thoughts on what the cost of that list would be, the mechanic didn't have time to price it up.

Looks like my budget of $5k is blown. Looks like my hopes for getting her on the road for summer is a pipe dream.

Assuming a standard restoration am I liklely to be in the $5k-$10k range or $10k-$15k range? Is it worth finding another series 3 and starting from a cleaner canvas?

P.S. Took a cool pic today - beauty (Land Rover) and the beast (Ferrari).

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[lammy]

hey guys, forgot to ask, would it be cheaper to find a clean chassis rather than spending $2500 on the existing one? I'm guessing putting my car on a clean chassis would cost some coin, any ideas how much for the lift and drop?

[bemm52]

Reading through you defects list things mightn't be as bad as you think. Rust is a big issue with old Land Rovers it would seem your bulkhead is OK, and chassis doesn't seem to bad I'm assuming rusted radiator support refers to radiator support panel which you should be able to source readily.I have one surplus to needs here
weld in chassis repair parts are available for most of the common chassis rust areas perhaps your mechanics weren't aware of this
oil leaks new seals and gasgets.....brakes you should go over as a matter of course in my opinion again parts readily available
plus side car drive train and engine seems solid, and you've got a complete car
If you've got space a pull apart and put back together it is well within the scope of a novice mechanic and support and advice is on this forum, have a look at Timnz,s series 3 rebuild
you obviously love the car and doing work yourself saves$$$$$
I would think 5/10k would be ballpark for a vehicle you could really be proud of at the finish, the journey is fun most of the time and you get a real understanding of how every thing works
Sadly don't hold your breath for a summer drive[bigsad] but a new old car to drive when it's finished[thumbsupbig][smilebigeye][smilebigeye]

Cheers Paul

[lammy]

Reading through you defects list things mightn't be as bad as you think. Rust is a big issue with old Land Rovers it would seem your bulkhead is OK, and chassis doesn't seem to bad I'm assuming rusted radiator support refers to radiator support panel which you should be able to source readily.I have one surplus to needs here
weld in chassis repair parts are available for most of the common chassis rust areas perhaps your mechanics weren't aware of this
oil leaks new seals and gasgets.....brakes you should go over as a matter of course in my opinion again parts readily available
plus side car drive train and engine seems solid, and you've got a complete car
If you've got space a pull apart and put back together it is well within the scope of a novice mechanic and support and advice is on this forum, have a look at Timnz,s series 3 rebuild
you obviously love the car and doing work yourself saves$$$$$
I would think 5/10k would be ballpark for a vehicle you could really be proud of at the finish, the journey is fun most of the time and you get a real understanding of how every thing works
Sadly don't hold your breath for a summer drive[bigsad] but a new old car to drive when it's finished[thumbsupbig][smilebigeye][smilebigeye]

Cheers Paul

Thanks Paul, thats actually very similar advice to that which I was given this evening from a member of the Land Rover club.

You guys are inspiring me to take the plunge and start tinkering.

Cheers,
Adam

[MarkM]

To me your list does not look too daunting, nor surprising.

Most of the items fall into the category of rubber seals, rubber bushes and rubber hoses and lines. I reckon you have got to expect a 40+ y.o. car to have every bit of rubber gone hard, brittle, cracked, and leaking. So I would think any one you find will need these same set of seals done, unless the previous owner has done them. This is what I'm currently doing on mine.

I can't comment on the chassis rust, as again I would expect there to be some, mainly the more exposed/thinner pieces I guess. But hard to comment on the basis of a written description or even a photo, as there is such. range of possible severity of damage and difficulty of repair. But as said above, spare pieces seem readily available and not prohibitively expensive.

Maybe your not going to get a much easier path in any case.

Mark

[grey_ghost]

Hi Adam.

I agree with everything that Paul has said. There are common areas of rust in these vehicles with common repair panels also available for said provlems.

These cars are like big mechano sets, pretty much everything bolts on and off.

Do yourself a favour - pull it apart yourself, take a million photos, use samdwhich log bags, write on the bags what it is and where you took it from. Once the body is off you can find either a mechanic or mobile welder and ask them to take a look.

I did that with one of my vehicles. The rear cross member needed replacing (a common rust area). The mechanic got me to supply the replacement part and even prepare the surfaces (sand back to bare metal). He then measured, cut and welded the new replace cross member on. I think he charged me $200 in labour and that was it.

Parts are easy to get. It’s labour that costs a bomb - which you can save on by doing a lot of stuff yourself.

And if you want to get it painted-guess what, you have already pulled the body apart/off so with a trailer (or a few ute loads) you can take the panels to a painter. You have already save them some labour by pulling it apart. Depending on how far you want to go, you can either sand it back to bare metal (takes time but can be done) or get a sand blaster to do it. Saving more money at the painter.

Your budget sounds possible but things do start to add up - like tyres, a battery, brakes, seats (maybe), etc.

It won’t be ready this summer but depending on how dedicated you are - it could be for next summer! [emoji3]

Go for it - it will be a great project and you will always look at the car with pride and think “I did that”.

There are plenty of knowledgeable folks on here, with great experience and willing to offer advice.

Where abouts are you in Melbourne?

Cheers,
GG

[JDNSW]

Hi Guys,

......
Mechanic 1: chassis is too far gone don't spend another cent on it, unsafe to drive a child in the car, would cost $15k to get it roadworthy.

Probably unfamiliar with Series Landrovers. And it will never meet the safety features of a modern car - if you expect it to, stop now.

Mechanic 2: Quote from body repairer = $2500 to repair chassis with an engineers certificate, and the large list of things needed for the road worthy below.

Can't be much wrong with it if only $2500 for chassis repairs from a body repairer! Most of that will be labour.

- front diff seals leaking
Unclear - there is only one front diff seal, on the pinion. About half an hour and a $10 part for an experienced mechanic, a couple of hours if you have never done it before. If he also includes the swivel seals, a much bigger job, but still only a couple of hundred for parts even if you need to replace the top swivel pin and railko bushes. At best could be just removing a shim. If not bad, quite likely getaway with just refill the swivels with "one shot" semiliquid grease and degrease the area.

- engine mounts split
Simple, easy, cheap.

- radiator support rusted

Unclear what he is talking about, and cost depends on how bad is the rust.

- gearbox mount split
Simple, easy, cheap.

- rear diff hat leaking

Not clear what he is talking about. Probably the pinion seal, not a big job and cheap.

- grill and apron support rusted

Again, depends how badly rusted

- whole exhaust rusted

Possibly it all needs replacing, but surface rust is not a roadworthy issue with an exhaust system, and it sounds like he is looking for work!

- gear box housing leaking

Extremely unlikely the actual housing is leaking. It will be a seal, a gasket or an O-ring, none of which will be expensive, but may involve significant labour.

- oil filter housing leaking

Most likely it is not, but it is almost impossible to change the filter without getting the area oily. At worst it will be an O-ring.

- steering damper bushes split

Simple, cheap, easy.

- brake lines stiff

I assume he means the flexible lines. Not a big job and not very expensive to replace.

- drag line ball joints leaking

I have no idea what a drag line is on a Series Landrover. Perhaps he refers to the tie rod ends. There are six of these, and if the seals are damaged they would need replacing - in most circumstances the TRE would need replacing if the seal is damaged, although I would think that it should only fail roadworthy if there is play in the joint. And if it is a greasable joint, it will normally have grease on and round it. Again, sounds as if he is looking for work!

- steering damper ball joints split/leaking grease

The steering damper does not have ball joints - what is he talking about? Maybe the tie rod ends on the steering relay?

- body mounts rusted

Depends what he is talking about, and what is meant by rusted. Probably one or more chassis outrigger needs replacing or repairing. Parts are available, and it may not be a big job unless theyt are all badly rusted.

Not sure what to do?

Did the mechanic have experience with Series Landrovers? You need to talk to a Landrover experienced mechanic, and get to know some of your local owners.

Any thoughts on what the cost of that list would be, the mechanic didn't have time to price it up.

Looks like my budget of $5k is blown. Looks like my hopes for getting her on the road for summer is a pipe dream.

Assuming a standard restoration am I liklely to be in the $5k-$10k range or $10k-$15k range? Is it worth finding another series 3 and starting from a cleaner canvas?

P.S. Took a cool pic today - beauty (Land Rover) and the beast (Ferrari).

145316

It is impossible to say from the available information what the cost would be - a major factor will be how you plan to do the work (i.e. are you doing any of the work?) but also how much of a perfectionist the mechanic or panel beater is, and whether they have done enough work on similar vehicles to know what they are doing.

One thing you need to be well aware of - a Series Landrover is not an investment; it will not increase in value by anything like the amount you spend on it!

[lammy]

It is impossible to say from the available information what the cost would be - a major factor will be how you plan to do the work (i.e. are you doing any of the work?) but also how much of a perfectionist the mechanic or panel beater is, and whether they have done enough work on similar vehicles to know what they are doing.

One thing you need to be well aware of - a Series Landrover is not an investment; it will not increase in value by anything like the amount you spend on it!

Thanks very much John. I'm extremely fresh to this game (as you probably quickly figured out) so I have no concept other than that which is offered from the mechanic. Your feedback is greatly appreciated.

My wife got a bit worried after the mechanic said the car wasn't safe for a child. I'm still not sure what I am going to do. I went and had a look at another lady today to see what $10k would buy me for comparison. The owner mentioned he spent $14k on it (as per the car sales ad) so I was keen to see what you get for that investment. It looked a lot cleaner than my car but surprisingly (for me anyway) had chassis work on multiple spots. I took some picks for my reference. Keen to hear your thoughts. It drove well and when I braked hard it didn't fly left like mine or pop out of third. All in all a decent car. Still not sure whether I could get to that same point for $5k or whether I should look at buying a car like the attached and arrive there for less outlay (obviously missing the experience of restoration as well).

https://photos.app.goo.gl/TxJs8uuuB9AiX3ME9

Keen to hear any thoughts.

Cheers,
Adam

[lammy]

Hi Adam.

I agree with everything that Paul has said. There are common areas of rust in these vehicles with common repair panels also available for said provlems.

These cars are like big mechano sets, pretty much everything bolts on and off.

Do yourself a favour - pull it apart yourself, take a million photos, use samdwhich log bags, write on the bags what it is and where you took it from. Once the body is off you can find either a mechanic or mobile welder and ask them to take a look.

I did that with one of my vehicles. The rear cross member needed replacing (a common rust area). The mechanic got me to supply the replacement part and even prepare the surfaces (sand back to bare metal). He then measured, cut and welded the new replace cross member on. I think he charged me $200 in labour and that was it.

Parts are easy to get. It’s labour that costs a bomb - which you can save on by doing a lot of stuff yourself.

And if you want to get it painted-guess what, you have already pulled the body apart/off so with a trailer (or a few ute loads) you can take the panels to a painter. You have already save them some labour by pulling it apart. Depending on how far you want to go, you can either sand it back to bare metal (takes time but can be done) or get a sand blaster to do it. Saving more money at the painter.

Your budget sounds possible but things do start to add up - like tyres, a battery, brakes, seats (maybe), etc.

It won’t be ready this summer but depending on how dedicated you are - it could be for next summer! [emoji3]

Go for it - it will be a great project and you will always look at the car with pride and think “I did that”.

There are plenty of knowledgeable folks on here, with great experience and willing to offer advice.

Where abouts are you in Melbourne?

Cheers,
GG


Thanks heaps for your reply GG.

I'm located in Brighton East VIC. My issue so far has been finding a mechanic (even an amateur mechanic) who can help guide me through the process. Other than this forum, the land rover club and a few youtube vids that I've watched I'm not that confident (yet) - confidence is building though - even if it is false confidence atm haha.

If you know of anyone that might be able to help even if I have to drive a bit please let me know.

Cheers,
Adam

[gromit]

Fred Smith in Bayswater could do the work but he’s always busy.
I counted 13 Land Rovers parked in his street last week, and another 10-20 outside the factory, then there are his Jags.

Four Wheel Drives used to do repair work, l’ll have to speak to their mechanic and see if they still take this sort of work on. The welding repairs might be an issue.

Most if the list is fairly straightforward, you just need to find a good welder.


Colin

[lammy]

Fred Smith in Bayswater could do the work but he’s always busy.
I counted 13 Land Rovers parked in his street last week, and another 10-20 outside the factory, then there are his Jags.

Four Wheel Drives used to do repair work, l’ll have to speak to their mechanic and see if they still take this sort of work on. The welding repairs might be an issue.

Most if the list is fairly straightforward, you just need to find a good welder.


Colin
Thanks Colin,

I sent my shopping list (mechanics list) to Karen at four wheel drives today - Karen was super helpful and super knowledgeable. Karen is going to ask her team in Melbourne who they would recommend for the chassis work. I visited Grahame Carter (Braiside VIC) on a recommendation from the previous owner of my SWB Series 3. Turns out Grahame can do the work but not for 10 weeks.

Cheers,
Adam

[gromit]

Thanks Colin,

I sent my shopping list (mechanics list) to Karen at four wheel drives today - Karen was super helpful and super knowledgeable. Karen is going to ask her team in Melbourne who they would recommend for the chassis work. I visited Grahame Carter (Braiside VIC) on a recommendation from the previous owner of my SWB Series 3. Turns out Grahame can do the work but not for 10 weeks.

Cheers,
Adam

Adam,
Karen has just started back with Four Wheel Drives, she's based in WA but answers the phones.
The person she'll ask is the same person I'd ask.

Fred Smith is likely to be the same lead time.

Best of luck.


Colin

[lammy]

Hi Guys,

Just had feedback from a couple of mechanics,

Mechanic 1: chassis is too far gone don't spend another cent on it, unsafe to drive a child in the car, would cost $15k to get it roadworthy.

Mechanic 2: Quote from body repairer = $2500 to repair chassis with an engineers certificate, and the large list of things needed for the road worthy below.

- front diff seals leaking
- engine mounts split
- radiator support rusted
- gearbox mount split
- rear diff hat leaking
- grill and apron support rusted
- whole exhaust rusted
- gear box housing leaking
- oil filter housing leaking
- steering damper bushes split
- brake lines stiff
- drag line ball joints leaking
- steering damper ball joints split/leaking grease
- body mounts rusted

Not sure what to do?

Any thoughts on what the cost of that list would be, the mechanic didn't have time to price it up.

Looks like my budget of $5k is blown. Looks like my hopes for getting her on the road for summer is a pipe dream.

Assuming a standard restoration am I liklely to be in the $5k-$10k range or $10k-$15k range? Is it worth finding another series 3 and starting from a cleaner canvas?

P.S. Took a cool pic today - beauty (Land Rover) and the beast (Ferrari).

145316


Hi Guys,

So my foray into the world of home mechanics seems to have gone ok. I managed to pull out the old exhaust system and fit a complete new one. There were only 3 parts so admittedly its hard to go wrong. Before I tackle the next few items on the list I was hoping to get the good oil on a few things.

Qn 1: After fitting the new exhaust I still register a reading of carbon monoxide, granted its pretty low ~45. Has anyone else had this issue?

Qn 2: I scoped out what is involved with the gear box mounts and it seems there is a cross member that covers the nut, is that just my car or everyones? Does anyone have any tips (i.e. where to place the jack, how to navigate the cross member issue etc) for replacing the gear box mounts.

Qn 3: With the engine mounts, where exactly on the engine would I place the jack? Its not that obvious to the untrained eye unfortunately. The jack I have is 1500kg so I'm assuming it will be big enough?

Qn 4: From the list below what else would be an easy project for a novice?


The list
- front diff seals leaking
- engine mounts split
- radiator support rusted
- gearbox mount split
- rear diff hat leaking
- grill and apron support rusted
- whole exhaust rusted
- gear box housing leaking
- oil filter housing leaking
- steering damper bushes split
- brake lines stiff
- drag line ball joints leaking
- steering damper ball joints split/leaking grease
- body mounts rusted

Thanks for your help guys. Hoping to have the old girl on the road by the end of the year.

[LRJim]

- radiator support rusted
- grill and apron support rusted
- body mounts rusted


Hey mate,
Sounds like a bit of list on your hands, most is general age seals mounts etc..

I would be concerned about these, maybe put some photos up so we can define "rusted" flakey paint and rusty surface or completed eaten and rusted out.
If you have a decent budget just get an engineer to fix the chassis and do the rest yourself.
Cheers Jim

[lammy]

Hey mate,
Sounds like a bit of list on your hands, most is general age seals mounts etc..

I would be concerned about these, maybe put some photos up so we can define "rusted" flakey paint and rusty surface or completed eaten and rusted out.
If you have a decent budget just get an engineer to fix the chassis and do the rest yourself.
Cheers Jim

Thanks Jim,

You mentioned "I would be concerned", I'm assuming (or hoping) you meant to say "I wouldn't be concerned"?

Yeah that was my intention, i.e. get the chassis sorted and I'll chip away at the rest of the list.

Cheers,
Adam

[JDNSW]

Hi Guys,

......

Qn 1: After fitting the new exhaust I still register a reading of carbon monoxide, granted its pretty low ~45. Has anyone else had this issue?

I've never heard of anyone actually measuring this! If all the joints have no apparent leaks you should have no issues.

Qn 2: I scoped out what is involved with the gear box mounts and it seems there is a cross member that covers the nut, is that just my car or everyones? Does anyone have any tips (i.e. where to place the jack, how to navigate the cross member issue etc) for replacing the gear box mounts.

They are fiddly to get at, a lot easier if you take out the floor and seat box - which you probably need to do anyway. Just keep track of all the fasteners, little bits etc. Ziplock snadwich bags are very handy as mentioned by an earlier poster.

Qn 3: With the engine mounts, where exactly on the engine would I place the jack? Its not that obvious to the untrained eye unfortunately. The jack I have is 1500kg so I'm assuming it will be big enough?

Jack is plenty big enough. I would jack with a wooden block under the crankshaft pulley.

Qn 4: From the list below what else would be an easy project for a novice?




The list
- front diff seals leaking
- engine mounts split
- radiator support rusted
- gearbox mount split
- rear diff hat leaking
- grill and apron support rusted
- whole exhaust rusted
- gear box housing leaking
- oil filter housing leaking
- steering damper bushes split
- brake lines stiff
- drag line ball joints leaking
- steering damper ball joints split/leaking grease
- body mounts rusted

Thanks for your help guys. Hoping to have the old girl on the road by the end of the year.

Hope this helps you.

[lammy]

Hope this helps you.
Thanks heaps John