S 2A 2.25 with Solex Carb won't run without choke

[rexhunt]

I've got a 2A out on my parent's farm that I've slowly been trying to get up to snuff and using here and there on the farm when it's working. Currently the biggest problem I have with it is that it won't run without at least a tiny bit of choke. We've played with the mixture screw, put new seals through the carb, put a new throttle shaft in, checked the valves, has new points, coil, leads, plugs and it still won't idle without the choke. It doesn't need much but I'm thinking that particularly one it's up to temp that it shouldn't need any choke at all to be running smoothly.

I replaced the throttle shaft as the old one had a bit of wobble that I thought might be causing the problem. The new shaft didn't fix the wobble much so I'm thinking there might be air leaking in through there and causing it to run lean. To test this I was thinking maybe put some putty around the throttle shaft and if it runs better then we'll need to make up some bushings to fix the sloppy housing.

Am I going to be better off getting a zenith clone or something and an adapter, etc. or is it likely I've just missed setting something up correctly?

I was planning on checking the timing statically next time I'm out there. I'd done it before when it was at my place but just to be sure it hasn't changed. I can't use a timing light as idle is currently around 1500rpm according to the cheapo tach that's hooked up the the ignition coil.

Thanks for any help.
Rex

[travelrover]

I've got a 2A out on my parent's farm that I've slowly been trying to get up to snuff and using here and there on the farm when it's working. Currently the biggest problem I have with it is that it won't run without at least a tiny bit of choke. We've played with the mixture screw, put new seals through the carb, put a new throttle shaft in, checked the valves, has new points, coil, leads, plugs and it still won't idle without the choke. It doesn't need much but I'm thinking that particularly one it's up to temp that it shouldn't need any choke at all to be running smoothly.

I replaced the throttle shaft as the old one had a bit of wobble that I thought might be causing the problem. The new shaft didn't fix the wobble much so I'm thinking there might be air leaking in through there and causing it to run lean. To test this I was thinking maybe put some putty around the throttle shaft and if it runs better then we'll need to make up some bushings to fix the sloppy housing.

Am I going to be better off getting a zenith clone or something and an adapter, etc. or is it likely I've just missed setting something up correctly?

I was planning on checking the timing statically next time I'm out there. I'd done it before when it was at my place but just to be sure it hasn't changed. I can't use a timing light as idle is currently around 1500rpm according to the cheapo tach that's hooked up the the ignition coil.

Thanks for any help.
Rex

Hi Rex

You can still get rebuild kits for these.

Have a look here;

John Craddock LTD (https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/search/results.html's=507687)

and here..

Parts - Land Rover Workshop (https://www.landroverworkshop.com/parts/search'search=solex)

Cheers Simon

[rexhunt]

Hmmm, didn't even think to look at the uk guys. I might get that overhaul kit lest one of the jets is screwed up.

[B.S.F.]

I've got a 2A out on my parent's farm that I've slowly been trying to get up to snuff and using here and there on the farm when it's working. Currently the biggest problem I have with it is that it won't run without at least a tiny bit of choke. We've played with the mixture screw, put new seals through the carb, put a new throttle shaft in, checked the valves, has new points, coil, leads, plugs and it still won't idle without the choke. It doesn't need much but I'm thinking that particularly one it's up to temp that it shouldn't need any choke at all to be running smoothly.

I replaced the throttle shaft as the old one had a bit of wobble that I thought might be causing the problem. The new shaft didn't fix the wobble much so I'm thinking there might be air leaking in through there and causing it to run lean. To test this I was thinking maybe put some putty around the throttle shaft and if it runs better then we'll need to make up some bushings to fix the sloppy housing.

Am I going to be better off getting a zenith clone or something and an adapter, etc. or is it likely I've just missed setting something up correctly?

I was planning on checking the timing statically next time I'm out there. I'd done it before when it was at my place but just to be sure it hasn't changed. I can't use a timing light as idle is currently around 1500rpm according to the cheapo tach that's hooked up the the ignition coil.

Thanks for any help.
Rex

You've never mentioned the idle adjusting screw. Why not?
.W.

[rexhunt]

You've never mentioned the idle adjusting screw. Why not?
.W.

You mean the screw that adjusts the position the the butterfly when the accelerator is released? I didn't think to mention it. With the choke pushed all the way in I can only keep it running by working the accelerator to keep the revs high, then it will stop anyway. Setting the hand throttle to try and replicate the action while being easier to adjust, restart and adjust again ended up with nearly full travel on the hand throttle and it still sopped after 30 seconds or so.

Thanks,
Rex

[B.S.F.]

Kits are available in Australia. This is just one of the companies.

Land Rover Parts - CARBURETTOR REPAIR KIT (SOLEX) - L/ROVER S2+2A (Up to & including engine suffix H) (https://www.roverparts.com.au/inc/sdetail/1664)

No connection, just a happy customer.
.W.

[1950landy]

Check the sentiment bole in the fuel line for water or dirt or if some one has fitted a line filter replace it . I used to have trouble similar because the fuel tank is under the seat I would get water in the tank when I washed the vehicle . When it played up I would just blow back through the line filter & it would run fine until the next time the tank got low & sucked up more water. Eventually replaced the seal on the filler cap & have not had a problem since. Worth a look .[bighmmm]

[JDNSW]

Sounds like the main jet or one of the realted passages is blocked, or possibly a sticky or maladjusted needle valve as it sounds as if it is getting inadequate fuel through the main circuit.

First thing I would do is give it a thorough clean.

[rexhunt]

Kits are available in Australia. This is just one of the companies.

Land Rover Parts - CARBURETTOR REPAIR KIT (SOLEX) - L/ROVER S2+2A (Up to & including engine suffix H) (https://www.roverparts.com.au/inc/sdetail/1664)

No connection, just a happy customer.
.W.

Hmmm. I think I may have ignored that previously because I thought I needed a new throttle shaft. I'll probably pick up that kit and in conjunction with John's suggestion it may be a blocked main jet, replace that and blast some carb cleaner down the associated passages.


1950landy[/COLOR]]Check the sentiment bole in the fuel line for water or dirt or if some one has fitted a line filter replace it . I used to have trouble similar because the fuel tank is under the seat I would get water in the tank when I washed the vehicle . When it played up I would just blow back through the line filter & it would run fine until the next time the tank got low & sucked up more water. Eventually replaced the seal on the filler cap & have not had a problem since. Worth a look .[bighmmm]

I've put an inline filter downstream of the pump when I first got the car, not really understanding/trusting the sediment bowl arrangement. It's pretty new still and is see through and not looking dirty at all so I don't think that's part of the problem. Could be proved wrong though.

Cheers,
Rex

[B.S.F.]

I've never found the need for an inline filter . There is a gauze on the pick up pipe in the tank , another one above the sediment bowl , and another one in the union where the fuel enters the carburettor.
.W.

[JDNSW]

Last time I had serious blocked jet issues it turned out to be the paper inline filter was disintegrating!

Edit: It doesn't have to be dirt coming from the fuel that is blocking the jets - it can be flakes of gum or corrosion from the carburettor itself, or even bits of a disintegrating diaphragm from the pump or the carburettor.

[rexhunt]

Sounds like I was worried about something that wasn't even a problem when I put that filter in. I guess I might get a new piece of fuel line and remove it at some point then. The pump seems to suck air when I switch the pickup over to the passenger side tank, that could be because the level is too low or perhaps there is a hole in one of the lines. I'll investigate that later as what's in that tank currently smells more like thinners then petrol and driving around the farm I'm not going to be needing the extra capacity. I might remove the filter then.

The carb repair kit is on it's way so once that arrives I'll pull the carb back off and hopefully this will sort it out.

There is a little play in the throttle shaft still, is this something that's going to cause me problems or is it likely to be something that can be overcome with a little more mixture?

Cheers,
Rex

[rover-56]

Stale petrol that smells a bit like turps can send you down all sorts of rabbit holes and waste time and money. Engine will never run properly on it. Put in fresh petrol and see how it goes.
Cheers,
Terry

[JDNSW]

Sounds like I was worried about something that wasn't even a problem when I put that filter in. I guess I might get a new piece of fuel line and remove it at some point then. The pump seems to suck air when I switch the pickup over to the passenger side tank, that could be because the level is too low or perhaps there is a hole in one of the lines. I'll investigate that later as what's in that tank currently smells more like thinners then petrol and driving around the farm I'm not going to be needing the extra capacity. I might remove the filter then.

The carb repair kit is on it's way so once that arrives I'll pull the carb back off and hopefully this will sort it out.

There is a little play in the throttle shaft still, is this something that's going to cause me problems or is it likely to be something that can be overcome with a little more mixture?

Cheers,
Rex

Pull the pickup pipe out of the tank and check for rust pinholes or a split - these are common issues.

Unless very bad, the major issue with the wear on the throttle shaft is likely to be an unstable idle - you set the speed and mixture to get it idling nicely, and next time the throttle closes it settles in a slightly different position, and speed and mixture change. You usually end up dealing with this by setting the idling speed a little higher than the recommended 500-600rpm, which is likely to lead to running on and problems engaging first gear without waiting another ten seconds.

[rexhunt]

Yep, when I get to looking at that tank I'll start with checking that pickup, then go from there.

Sounds like the throttle shaft isn't going to be a problem then. Waiting 10 seconds to engage 1st from idle will be fine compared to what it does now, with the idle above 1k rpm.

Thanks for the help and suggestions so far.

Cheers,
Rex

[rexhunt]

Stale petrol that smells a bit like turps can send you down all sorts of rabbit holes and waste time and money. Engine will never run properly on it. Put in fresh petrol and see how it goes.
Cheers,
Terry

That tank is currently not selected, as the pump starts sucking air when switched over to that tank I'm not worried about it trying to run on old garbage fuel. When I get to looking at it I'll drain the fuel out of it and start with fresh stuff. Goodness knows how long that's been in there.

Cheers,
Rex

[Busted Syncro]

G'day All,

You mention there is a changeover valve for the two tanks. The port feed passages are really small around 4mm for my changeover.

They clog up easily particularly with rust particles. Suggest check these as well.

Chris

[rexhunt]

Ok, a big improvement today. It now runs without any choke. I put the new jets in and it will now run with the coke all the way in. It seemed like the pilot? jet was somewhat obstructed.

The interesting thing is that all but the accelerator jets are a different size to what was in the carb before. I didn't think to take my workshop manual with me so I can't compare to what it says they should be but that was interesting to find.

Unfortunately it won't idle reliably below around 900-1000 rpm which seems a bit high to me. If I slowly adjust the slow running screw then it will behave down to around 800 but any lower than that and the speed just drops and I had to open the throttle again to stop it from stalling. If I adjust the slow running screw so it stays happy, then open and close the throttle it just keeps loosing speed and will stall again. The workshop manual suggests that slow running problems could be caused by air leaks so when it's all cold I may spray some carb cleaner around the manifold to check there aren't any leaks there.

Also managed to notice a crack in the top tank of the radiator, just a slight weep for now but I'll have to get that sorted before much else happens. [bigsad]

Thanks for the pointers, things are looking up here.

Cheers,
Rex

[JDNSW]

The unstable idle is probably the throttle shaft not settling into the same place every time the throttle closes rather than an air leak. You could try a light spring that keeps the shaft pulled sideways so it always stops in the same position, and see if that allows a stable, lower, idle.

[1950landy]

Instead of using carby cleaner & risk the chance of a fire , use a spray bottle of water , you will hear if there is a air leak when it sucks in the water.